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.V 



I 



THE 

CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

A JOURNAL OF THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS OF A THREE 
YEARS' CRUISE IN THE 

U. S. FLAG-SHIP BROOKLYN, 

IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC STATION, EXTENDING SOUTH OF 

THE EQUATOR FROM CAPE HORN EAST TO THE LIMITS 

IN THE INDIAN OCEAN ON THE SEVENTIETH 

MERIDIAN OF EAST LONGITUDE. 

DESCRIPTIONS OF PLACES IN 

SOUTH AMERICA, AFRICA, AND MADAGASCAR, 

WITH DETAILS. OP THE PECULIAR CUSTOMS AND INDUSTRIES 
OF THEIR INHABITANTS. 



THE CRUISES OF THE OTHER VESSELS OF THE AMERICAN SQUADRON, 
FROM NOVEMBER, 1881, TO NOVEMBER, 1884. 



U 'V V 



BY 






W. H. BEEHLEE, 

Lieut. U. S. Navy. 
ILLUSTRATED. § "\)£Q 2£ 1004 

PRE SS OF 
J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., PHILADELPHIA. 

1885. 



Copyright, 1884, by W. H. Beehlbr. 






PEEFAOE. 



The interesting reception of Neptune on board the U. S. S. 
" Brooklyn," upon crossing the equator, created a demand for a 
periodical on board. The author was selected to conduct the 
journal, and the officers cordially gave him their assistance, so 
that the Brooklyn Eagle became a regular feature of the ship. 
Captain A. W. Weaver gave his permission, and the sum of five 
cents per copy was charged, in order to defray expenses for paper, 
ink, and replenishing the type, and also to pay the printer, C. M. 
Cartwright, for his labor during his leisure hours. The writer of 
any article was also allowed as many copies of the paper as he 
might desire for his own gratification. 

The present volume is, with a few additions, taken from the 
Brooklyn Eagle, and, with the illustrations of the principal places 
visited during a cruise in comparatively unfrequented waters, may 
prove interesting to the general public. 

" The History of the River Plate Republics" was published in 
a continued series of the Brooklyn Eagle, and the author intends 
to complete that work and publish it in a separate volume. 

The author takes advantage of the opportunity to acknowledge 
his indebtedness to the officers of the " Brooklyn" for their sup- 
port and co-operation. Lieutenant G-. A. Calhoun contributed 



6 PREFACE. 

the articles upon " La Fete National" and " The Carnival of '83 
at Montevideo ;" Lieutenant J. J. Hunker that of " The Fazenda 
Santa Anna," and Lieutenant H. 0. Handy the article on 
" Base-Ball" and that of " The National Sport of Spain." Chap- 
lain Boyce furnished valuable information concerning Madagascar, 
and all the officers kindly revised and criticised the various arti- 
cles as they appeared from time to time, so that this volume may 
be considered as having been thoroughly revised and in all respects 
reliable. 

My special thanks are due to Captain A. W. Weaver for his 
permission to continue the publication of the Brooklyn Eagle, 
and also to Bear- Admirals Crosby and Phelps, who gave me their 
friendly advice. 

W. H. Beehler, 

Lieutenant V.S.N. 

U. S. S. "Brooklyn," October 8, 1884. 



/ 



/ 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTEE I. 

PAGE 

The "Brooklyn" commissioned for the South Atlantic — Description of 
the Ship — List of Officers — The Official Inspection by the Inspecting 
Board — Departure from New York — The First Storm at Sea — Pleasant 
Voyage and Arrival at the Equator — The Grand Reception and Festival 
in Honor of His Majesty Neptune and the Queen — The Initiation 
Ceremony 13 

CHAPTEE II. 

Arrival at Montevideo — Reception of the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Ad- 
miral J. H. Spotts — The Organization of the Admiral's Staff — The De- 
parture of the "Brooklyn" for the Straits of Magellan — Arrival at 
Elizabeth Island — Reception at Sandy Point by the Chilian Governor 
— Arrival at Falkland Islands — Description of Port Stanley — Death 
and Burial of Admiral Spotts — The Naval Funeral Ceremonies . . 20 

CHAPTEE III. 

Departure from Port Stanley — The Gale off the Mouth of the River Plate 
— The first " General Liberty" for the Ship's Company — The Stupid 
Arrest of " Perfectly Sober" Liberty-men — The Successful Cruise of the 
"Marion" — Search and Rescue of Shipwrecked Seamen on Heard 
Island in the Antarctic Ocean — The " Pamperos" — The " Brooklyn" 
run into by Steamer " Mozart" — Courtesy of Uruguayan Authorities and 
other Men-of-War at Montevideo— The Assistance rendered to the 
burning American Bark " Jonathan Chase" — The " Brooklyn" Base- 
Ball Nine 31 

7 



8 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 

PAGE 

The Arrival of the " Essex" and " Marion" at Montevideo — Closing the 
Breach made by the "Mozart" — Departure for Rio de Janeiro — The 
Death of Henry Jones, Boatswain's Mate — The Burial at Sea — Obitu- 
ary Notices — Description of the Voyage and Arrival at Rio — Rear-Ad- 
miral and Mrs. Crosby arrive at Rio, and the Admiral assumes Com- 
mand of the South Atlantic Squadron — The Feast of Corpus Christi at 
Rio — Preparations for entering the Dry-dock— The Presentation of the 
Admiral and Officers to His Majesty Dom Pedro and the Empress — 
Lieutenant Beehler's Experiments with the Electric Lights — Brilliant 
Illumination of the Ship in the Dry-dock 44 

CHAPTER V. 

First Organization of the " Brooklyn" Minstrels on the Fourth of July — 
The French Fete of the Storming of the Bastile — Gallant Conduct of 
Robert Allen and Edward Kenny in Rescuing their Shipmates — The 
United States Naval Depot at Rio de Janeiro — The Hospitality of the 
People at Rio — The Grand Minstrel Entertainment — Programme of the 
Performance — Full Description of the Entertainment . . . .59 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Admiral's Ball — The Reception of the Princess Imperial and Comte 
d'Eu — The Special Performance by the Celebrated " Brooklyn" Minstrels 
— Subsequent Arrival of the Emperor Dom Pedro II. — The Fazenda 
Santa Anna — Description of a Brazilian Coffee Plantation — Detach- 
ment of Officers — Departure from Rio — The Inspection of the Ship by 
Admiral Crosby — The Arrival of the "Galena" — The Cruise of the 
" Marion" and her Departure for Home 72 

CHAPTER VII. 

The Transit of Venus Expedition — Arrival of the Astronomical Party — 
— Departure and Passage to Patagonia — Arrival at Santa Cruz — Build- 
ing the Observatory at Camp Brooklyn — Preparations for observing 
the Transit — Diversions of the Ship's Company while waiting for the 
Day of the Transit — The Object of observing the Transit of Venus — The 
Photographic Method used by American Observers and the Great Suc- 
cess obtained — The Second Trip to Santa Cruz — Rating Chronometers 
— Return to Montevideo — Admiral Crosby relieved from the Command 
and transferred to the Asiatic Station — Poem by William Anderson, 
Seaman, upon the Transit of Venus 88 



CONTENTS. 9 

CHAPTEE VIII. 

PAGE 

Montevideo — The Carnival Festivities in 1883 — Full Accounts of the 
"Pomito" Warfare with the Montevidean Belles — The Masked Balls at 
the Clubs in Montevideo — Scientific Evolutions on Board the " Brook- 
lyn" to determine Tactical Diameter — Departure of Naval Cadets for 
Examination at Annapolis — A Visit to a Saladero — Description of the 
Principal Industry of Uruguay — The Fire Department at Montevideo 
— Gallant Conduct of Several of the Crew of the "Brooklyn" — Sur- 
prise of the Citizens at the Intrepid Bravery of the "Ya.nkee" Sailors 
— A Bull-Fight at Montevideo — Description of the Actors and the 
Bull-Ring — Arrival of a Paraguayan Man-of-War at Montevideo — 
Brief Sketch of a Thrilling Incident in the Paraguayan War . . 109 

CHAPTEE IX. 

Arrival of Commodore Phelps to take Command of South Atlantic Squad- 
ron — Inspection of the "Brooklyn" — Highly Creditable Performance 
of the Ship's Company in the Examination by New Commander-in- 
Chief — Time made in Different Exercises — Efficiency of the Ship — 
Departure of the " Galena" for the United States — Revised List of 
the Officers of the " Brooklyn" — Ordered to Madagascar — Departure 
for the Cape of Good Hope — The Cruise across the South Atlantic — 
Catching Albatross — Arrival at Cape Town — Full Description of Cape 
Town and Cape Colony — History of Cape Colony — The Renowned Docks 
at Cape Town — General Liberty for the Ship's Company — The "Brook- 
lyn" in the Dry-Dock — Description of a Dinner-Party given by the 
Officers' Mess of the famous Highland Regiment, Princess Louise's Own 
— The African Diamond-Fields — History of Diamond Mines in South 
Africa — Penalty for Illicit Diamond Buying — Departure of the " Brook- 
lyn" for Madagascar — Events of the Voyage in the Indian Ocean . 133 

CHAPTEE X. 

Arrival at Tamatave — The War prevents Communication with the Shore 
— Departure for Zanzibar — Events of the Trip — Christmas at Zanzibar 
— Description of Zanzibar and its History — Peculiar Customs and In- 
dustries of the Arahs — The Commercial Wealth of Zanzibar — African 
Slavery — The Slave " Dhows" — The Hospitality of the Sultan of Zanzi- 
bar — Remarkable Dinner- Party given by the Sultan to the American 
Officers — Visit to the Sultan's Harem — Labors of the English Uni- 
versities Missions in behalf of African Slaves — Abolition of Slavery in 
Zanzibar 164 



10 CONTENTS. 



CHAPTEE XI. 

PAGE 

Departure for the Comoro Islands — Arrival at Johanna — Description of 
the Comoro Islands — Arrival at Nossi Be — A Sugar Plantation at Nossi 
Be — Arrival at Mojanga, on the West Coast of Madagascar — Visit to a 
Sakalava Queen — Effects of the French Bombardment — Arrival at Mo- 
zambique — Description and History of Mozambique — The African Ex- 
plorations — Discovery of Makala Bay — The Great Importance of this 
Valuable Harbor — India-rubber Trees 180 

CHAPTEE XII. 

Madagascar — The Peculiarities of its Animal and Vegetable Life — The 
Remarkable Inhabitants — The History as furnished by Missionary 
Writers — Private Settlements — The Ascendency of the Hovas — Conver- 
sion to Christianity — Reaction in Favor of Idolatry in the Reign of 
Bloody Ranavalona — Christianity of the Present Queen — Peculiar Cus- 
toms of the Malagasy — Succession to the Throne confined to Female 
Members of the Royal Family — Status of the Prime Minister — Hova 
Houses — Sakalava Grass Huts — Mode of Reckoning Time — Native 
Dress — Cultivation of Rice — Peculiar Implements used — Malagasy 
Names — Government Employment without Pay — The Blood Covenant 
— Sakalava Medicine-Men — Hova Marriage Ceremony — Hova Tombs — 
Description of Antananarivo — The War with France .... 196 

CHAPTEE XIII. 

The Sakalava Outrage on American Gold-Hunters — The Investigation by 
the U. S. S. " Enterprise" — Arrival of the " Brooklyn" at Mourondava 
— Reception by Hova Officials — Peculiar Rites of Hospitality — Visit of 
Hovas to the " Brooklyn" — Arrival of the " Brooklyn" at Tullear — 
Effect of Target-Practice upon the Guilty Consciences of the Savage 
Sakalavas — The Lonely Missionary and his Labors among the Heathen 
— The Semi-Annual Inspection by the Commander-in-Chief — Departure 
for Port Elizabeth — Description of Port Elizabeth— The Proposed 
Docks— The Hottentot Clicks 229 

CHAPTEE XIV. 

Voyage around Cape of Good Hope to Cape Town — Promotion of Rear- 
Admiral Phelps — Courtesy of the English at Cape Town — Reception 
by the Officers — Dr. Holub's Exploring Expedition- — The Vineyard at 
High Constantia — The Beautiful Silver-Tree — General Description of 



CONTENTS. 11 

PAGE 

South Africa — History of the African States — The Transvaal Boers — 
The Boer War and Inglorious Defeat of the British at Laing's Neck — 
The Zulu "War — Cetewayo's Capture and Exile ..... 243 

CHAPTER XV. 

Departure for St. Helena — Impressions upon sighting the Island — Inci- 
dents of the " Brooklyn's" Stay in Port — Grand Ball given to the Offi- 
cers by the Citizens of Jamestown — Description of St. Helena — History 
of the Island — Napoleon's Exile — Measures taken by the English to 
prevent his Escape — Failure of the Plans of Napoleon's Friends — The 
Remarkable Resemblance of the Chinese Servant to the Ex-Emperor — 
Napoleon's Pastimes — -Last Sickness and Death — Curious Coincidences 
related by an Old Inhabitant — Burial at St. Helena — Neglect of Long- 
wood — Napoleon's Remains removed to France — Grand Funeral Pro- 
cession — Restoration of Napoleon's Residence — Cession of the Tomb 
and Longwood Estate to Napoleon's Heirs by Great Britain — The 
Present Guardian of the Tomb — A Visit to Longwood and Description 
of its Present Condition . . . . 275 

CHAPTER XVI. 

The Return to Montevideo from St. Helena — Events of the Voyage — A 
Visit to Buenos Ayres — Full Description of the City — The Park at 
Palermo — The Zoological Garden — An Amusing Incident at the Races 
— The Street Railroads in Buenos Ayres — The Argentine Naval Acad- 
emy — The "Nipsic's" Cruise in the South Atlantic .... 300 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Description of the Bay and City of Rio de Janeiro — A Brief Summary 
of the History of Brazil — The "Brooklyn's" Pets — The Homeward- 
Bound Voyage of the " Brooklyn" and Safe Arrival at New York — A 
Synopsis of the Cruise and Track Chart . . . . . . 319 

APPENDIX. 

List of Officers and Crew on board the "Brooklyn," October 8, 1884 . 337 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

Title and Medallion with View of the "Brooklyn" — Fac simile of a 

" Silver Leaf" — A Leadsman in the Chains Heaving the Lead On the cover. 

The " Brooklyn" and Table Mountain Frontispiece. 

General View of Montevideo 21 

Entrance to Rio de Janeiro 47 

Camp Brooklyn — Transit of Venus Expedition ..... 99 

Government Buildings at Montevideo — Plaza Independencia . . 119 

Street in Cape Town — Railroad Depot and Commercial Exchange . . 152 

General View of Zanzibar — The Sultan's Harem ..... 171 

General View of Mozambique 192 

Madagascar — Sakalava Warrior and Boatman ..... 200 

Malagasy Girls pounding Rice in a Mortar 212 

The Hova Officers of the Palace at Mourondava 234 

The Sakalava Village of Tullear 236 

Longwood Old House at St. Helena ....... 286 

Napoleon's Tomb 300 

General View of Buenos Ayres 309 

The Avenue of Palms at Rio de Janeiro . . . . . . 320 

Track Chart of the Cruise of the " Brooklyn" 335 



12 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 



CHAPTER I. 



The " Brooklyn" commissioned for the South Atlantic — Description of the 
Ship — List of Officers — The Official Inspection by the Inspecting Board — 
Departure from New York — The First Storm at Sea — Pleasant Voyage and 
Arrival at the Equator — The Grand Beception and Festival in Honor of His 
Majesty Neptune and the Queen — The Initiation Ceremony. 

After a friendly consultation between His Majesty Neptune and 
the President of the United States, the " Brooklyn" was selected 
as flag-ship of the United States naval forces in the^South Atlantic. 

Owing to the unprecedented number of applications, it was some 
time before the Honorable Secretary of the Navy could decide who 
should have the privilege of serving in this ship. The subject 
gave him so much concern as to necessitate publishing a general 
order, calling especial attention to the officers finally selected. 

The good old ship had been thoroughly overhauled (excepting 
a few leaks) and virtually rebuilt, and had a great many modern 
appliances, — electric bells, Hotchkiss revolving cannon, magazine- 
rifles, and ventilating fan-blowers. Neptune had some hope of 
finding electric lights on board and was very much disappointed. 

The " Brooklyn" is a single-deck steam sloop-of-war, two hun- 
dred and eighty-five feet long and forty-three feet beam ; tonnage, 
two thousand. Her armament consists of twelve 9-inch broadside 
guns, one 8-inch muzzle-loading rifle, one 60-pounder breech-load- 
ing rifle, two 20 -pounder breech -loading rifles, one 12-pounder 
light howitzer, one 3-inch breech-loading rifle, one long Gatling, 
and four Hotchkiss revolving cannon. She is fitted with four 

2 13 



14 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

projecting platforms and two rail-posts for the Hotehkiss cannon, 
and has the regulation torpedo outfit. 

She was put in commission at the New York Navy-yard at 1.20 
P.M., the 11th of November, 1881. At this time Captain A. W. 
Weaver formally received the ship from Rear-Admiral G. H. 
Cooper, United States Navy, commandant of the yard, and took 
command by reading his orders from the Honorable Secretary of 
the Navy in the presence of the oflicers and men assembled on the 
quarter-deck. The colors and pennants were hoisted while the 
band played " The Star-Spangled Banner." The following is a 
list of the oflicers : 

Aaron W. Weaver, captain commanding. 

Charles H. Pendleton, lieutenant-commander and executive. 

Charles M. Anthony, lieutenant-commander and navigator. 

C. B. Gill, Uriel Sebree, W. H. Beehler, H. 0. Handy, George 
A. Calhoun, and J. J. Hunker, lieutenants. 

John Hood, C. S. Ripley, James B. Cahoon, Thomas Snowden, 
and John A. Bell, midshipmen. 

A. C. Parsons and G. E. Perry, cadet-midshipmen. 

Henry M. Martin and John M. Steele, passed assistant surgeons. 
W. Goldsborough, paymaster. 
W. W. Dungan, chief engineer. 

B. C. Gowing, passed assistant engineer. 
S. H. Leonard, assistant engineer. 

W. S. Smith and R. J. Beach, cadet-engineers. 

A. L. Royce, chaplain. 

S. L. Jackson, second lieutenant of marines. 

H. Dickenson, boatswain. 

George L. Albro, gunner. 

J. S. Waltemeyer, carpenter. 

John T. Bailey, sailmaker. 

T. G. Dawson, pay-clerk. 

B. W. Goldsborough, fleet pay-clerk. 

The crew consists of three hundred and twenty men, including 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 15 

petty officers and marines. They are the finest set of men ever 
visited by Neptune. A great many of them have seen long and 
faithful service in the navy, and all reflect great credit upon the 
American people in the South Atlantic. 

Within three weeks the captain informed the Navy Department 
that the ship was ready for sea. The powder was received on 
board off the Battery on November 28, after which she anchored 
off West Twenty-third Street. 

The Board of Inspectors visited the ship on December 2, when 
she was found to be thoroughly equipped for a three years' cruise. 
At 10.30 a.m. the following Wednesday, December 7, she got 
under way and stood down the bay to Sandy Hook, where she an- 
chored until 4.20 P.M., when she stood out to sea, bound for Mon- 
tevideo. A fresh breeze from the northwest favored the ship, but 
it increased to a fresh gale during the night. The sea became 
very rough, and the ship rolled and pitched about uneasily. A 
great many were sea-sick, and all were subjected to a great deal of 
discomfort. The seas kept the decks wet constantly for two weeks, 
during which time there were only a few hours of good weather, 
and these were hailed with great delight. The band was ordered 
up once during this period, and the music revived the drooping 
spirits amazingly. 

Christmas- day was celebrated by divine service and a swell din- 
ner in the wardroom to the captain and steerage officers. By this 
time the wind and sea had abated considerably, and the ship was 
in milder latitudes. The trade-winds were very uncertain at first, 
but we found fair weather in that region, and made a good run 
until we reached the equator. Steam was only used the first two 
days out and the last two days while in the " doldrums" just north 
of the equator. 

The " Brooklyn" has side keelsons, and drags her screw when 
under sail ; but, notwithstanding these drawbacks, she made the 
run from Sandy Hook to the " line" at thirty degrees west longi- 
tude in thirty days and fourteen hours. 



16 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

NEPTUNE'S KECEPTION. 

At seven p.m., January 6, the ship's company was startled by 
the sound of a conch-shell under the weather bow, immediately 
after which the ship was hailed in deep stentorian tones, " Ship 
ahoy !" The officer of the deck answered " Halloa !" The voice 
replied, " What ship is that?" "The United States steamer 
Brooklyn." "Where from?" " New York." " Whither bound?" 
" Montevideo." " May I come on board ? I have a message for 
your captain." " Certainly." 

A quaint figure then emerged from out of the sea and ap- 
peared at the mast, where he handed the officer of the deck a de- 
spatch for the captain. This proved to be from His Majesty Nep- 
tune, informing the captain that he would visit the ship with his 
suite the next morning. 

The captain came out and shook hands with the envoy, and said 
he would be very much pleased to receive His Majesty, and he 
would have everything ready for his reception, and the initia- 
tion of those of his subjects who had never previously entered 
his dominions, and that he had reason to believe he had a num- 
ber of such young men among the officers and crew under his 
command. 

The captain sent his compliments to Neptune and recalled his 
first meeting with His Majesty thirty-three years ago in nearly 
the same spot. The envoy remembered it very well, and said he 
had the honor of being His Majesty's viceroy at that time, and, 
after thanking the captain, he mysteriously disappeared. 

The next morning a huge tank was rigged up in the starboard 
gangway by means of a large boom-cover triced up to the rail on 
the bridge and topgallant forecastle, and preparations were mu.de 
for the day's ceremony. At nine A.M. a bugle-call announced the 
arrival of His Majesty and suite on board ship. All hands were 
called aft to muster, and formed lin3 for the grand review. The 
band struck up " A Life on the Ocean Wave," and a squad of sea- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 17 

urchins appeared with the state car of His Majesty Neptune and 
Queen Amphitrite. The car was a long shell with two wheels cov- 
ered with sea-weed, the golden fleece, and other decorations. 

His Majesty looked rather aged, but his keen eye evinced all 
the vigor of perennial youth. He was attired in sea- weed, carried 
a trident, and wore a crown of pearls. Queen Amphitrite hid her 
blushes under a prodigious growth of hair covering her whole 
body. She wore a green dress tastefully embroidered with choice 
varieties of sea- weed. The overskirt was cut & la princess. She 
did not bring any of her mermaids with her, as there are no 
ladies allowed on board [this] ship. 

The suite consisted of the secretary with Neptune's log, the 
doctor, grand chamberlain, the barber with an immense razor, and 
a train of policemen. The procession marched aft and halted at 
the mainmast, where the captain and executive received His Majesty 
and gave him a hearty welcome. Two servants appeared with 
wine, and Neptune and his suite pledged the health of the captain 
and his crew. After the usual exchange of courtesies, Neptune 
ordered his secretary to call the roll of officers who had not crossed 
the " line." Sixteen young gentlemen then came forward in 
obedience to the summons. His Majesty then addressed them 
in a neat little speech, wherein he informed them that in consid- 
eration of their positions and the record they would make in his 
log-book, he would allow them the privilege of choosing whether 
they would pay a tribute to Neptune and his train or submit to 
the initiatory shave. Those who preferred paying tribute were 
then requested to hold up their hands. As all the young gentle- 
men decided to pay tribute, His Majesty then ordered the train to 
march forward and proceed with the crew. 

A throne had been prepared for them on the starboard side of 
the forecastle, about fifteen feet above the bottom of the tank. 
The doctor and barber were stationed on each side of the block, 
and the secretary called out the name of the victims. One of 
the barber's assistants had a pail of lather made of a horrible mix- 



18 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

ture of lime, flour, molasses, vinegar, and sea-water, diluted with a 
strong solution of Stockholm tar. 

The thirty apprentice-boys were the first victims. As each one 
was called out he was required to sit on the block and submit to 
an examination by the doctor, who generally found it necessary to 
administer a nasty pill. The barber then put on the lather, while 
the victim was required to give an account of himself, during 
which the brush frequently lathered his mouth with an unsavory 
mess. As soon as the name was duly recorded the victim was 
lifted bodily and thrown headlong into the tank, where a host of 
minions received him and gave him a thorough washing. The 
boys went through the performance most gracefully, but the ma- 
rines were obstinate, and their vain resistance evoked the greatest 
merriment. 

When the secretary called for the master-at-arms, a general 
shout was raised by the boys. A full delegation of police was 
sent below, and " Jimmy Legs" was unceremoniously ushered into 
His Majesty's presence. In view of his position Neptune was 
somewhat undecided about requiring him to be shaved, but his 
ministers unanimously voted that he should be, as it might be 
taken as a precedent in future ceremonies. The barber was espe- 
cially zealous, and used all his influence to have him shaved, and 
when His Majesty finally ordered him to be initiated, the assem- 
bled court gave vent to their delight in loud applause. He was 
then allowed to prepare himself for the shave and bath, and was 
very neatly handled ; his graceful form was lifted up by four 
brawny arms and hurled into the tank to the tender mercies of 
the sea-urchins with the steam hose. The printer hoped to escape 
on account of some services, but the law was inexorable, and he 
submitted with very good grace. 

The firemen and coal-heavers were very indignant, and some of 
them intrenched themselves in the coal-bunkers and fire-room, 
laboring under the delusion that Neptune was not familiar with 
steam-engineering, and would not venture below among the intri- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 19 

cate machinery. They soon found themselves mistaken, and after 
a short struggle the uninitiated were duly shaved and washed. 

The captain was very anxious that his cook should be washed, 
but in this he was sadly disappointed, for when summoned into 
the presence of His Majesty, he was found to be an old acquaint- 
ance ; some infer that he was born on the coast of Africa, and is 
intimately acquainted with some of His Majesty's court. At all 
events, he was not subjected to either a shave or a wash. One 
young man from the " Woods" claimed to have crossed fifteen 
times, but had no certificate. He was cross-examined by the 
chief marshal, and as this proved unsatisfactory, he was duly 
submerged. 

At eleven a.m., after all the young men had been duly initi- 
ated and the officers had paid their tribute of wine and cigars, 
His Majesty went aft and bade the captain adieu. He reported to 
the captain that he had washed the hay-seed out of the hair of the 
young men, and that they would now pass muster. He promised 
fair weather and steady southeast trade-winds during the voyage, 
and that he would watch the young men and boys and see that 
they did their duty with credit to themselves and country. He 
expressed himself very much gratified with his visit and mysteri- 
ously disappeared with his whole retinue, while the band played 
"Yankee Doodle." 

All hands then turned to and proceeded to their duties. A fair 
wind sprang up almost immediately after His Majesty left. The 
captain ordered sail to be made and the fires were allowed to burn 
out, while the old ship proceeded on her way with Neptune's 
blessing. 



20 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 



CHAPTER II. 

Arrival at Montevideo — Reception of the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Ad- 
miral J. H. Spotts — The Organization of the Admiral's Staff — The Departure 
of the " Brooklyn" for the Straits of Magellan — Arrival at Elizabeth Island 
— Reception at Sandy Point by the Chilian Governor — Arrival at Falkland 
Islands — Description of Port Stanley — Death and Burial of Admiral Spotts 
— The Naval Funeral Ceremonies. 

From the " line" to Montevideo very little of interest occurred. 
The sea was for the most part smooth, and sailing delightful. 
January 18 the officers appeared in white for the first time. 
January 20 orders were given to get up steam, the wind having 
died out ; but soon, a fair wind springing up, fires were banked. 
January 22, soon after eleven o'clock, the drum beat to general 
quarters, the first we had had at night. The men turned out 
with great promptness, much to the satisfaction of the officers in 
charge of divisions. 

The wind dying out the next morning, orders were given to 
spread fires. The deep-sea lead was kept going all night at inter- 
vals. At four A.M., Wednesday, January 24, we made the light 
at the mouth of the river Plate. The pilot came on board at nine 
A.M., and we steamed up the river at a rapid rate under three- 
fourths power. The sky was overcast, but cleared towards evening. 
The city of Montevideo came in view about five o'clock, and a 
little after eight o'clock we came to anchor in the outer roadstead, 
signalling the " Shenandoah" by rockets. The long streets lit up by 
gas looked very beautiful to our weary eyes after forty-nine days 
at sea. The next morning we stood into the harbor, and came 
to anchor a short distance from the " Shenandoah." Three other 
men-of-war were in the harbor, — an Italian, a Frenchman, and a 
Brazilian. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 21 

Montevideo takes its name from a conical hill, which, can be 
seen for a long distance, situated on the western side of the cir- 
cular indenture in the river which forms the harbor. The town 
itself is on a point opposite, distant from it a mile or more in a 
direct line across the water. The hill is known as the " Cerro," 
or hill, par excellence. It is isolated, and rises gradually and 
regularly on all sides, at an angle of forty-five degrees, to a height 
of about four hundred and ninety feet. It is crowned by a small 
rectangular fortress, above which rises a tower some twenty or 
thirty feet, from which a flash light is shown. The fortress has 
been suffered to fall into a state of decay of late years, but the 
government, at the time of our visit, was making repairs and mount- 
ing guns. Midway between the hill on the west and the town on 
the east, a small hill rises two or three miles inland, called the 
" Cerrito," or little hill. In the many revolutions in this country 
this hill has been often fortified ; usually one party holding the 
" Cerro" and the other the " Cerrito," and each in turn attempting 
to control the city. 

The town is situated on a peninsula of tufa rocks, a half-mile in 
length by a quarter in width, and then spreads out into beautiful 
suburbs of twice this extent. The peninsula itself rises gently 
from the water on three sides to an elevation of eighty or one 
hundred feet, much in the shape of a whale's back. From a dis- 
tance it presents a mass of compactly -built, white, flat-topped houses, 
one and two stories high, with multitudes of small square turrets or 
miradors overtopping them. From the midst, in the central height, 
rise the lofty roofs, domes, and double towers of the cathedral. 

On Monday, January 30, at eleven a.m., Rear-Admiral James 
H. Spotts hoisted his flag on the " Brooklyn," being received on 
board by the officers and crew in battalion formation and a salute 
of thirteen guns, after which the admiral and staff inspected the 
ship. Medical Inspector C. H. Burbank and Captain E. P. Meeker 
joined this ship in company with the admiral. The admiral an- 
nounced his staff in the following general order : 



22 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Squadron Order "» TJ. S. F. S. " Brooklyn," Montevideo, Uruguay, 

No. 3. J January 30, 1882. 

Having transferred my flag to the U. S. S. " Brooklyn," I announce to the 
squadron the following officers as composing the personal and general staff: 

Personal Staff. 

Captain A. W. Weaver, chief of staff. 

Lieutenant W. H. Beehler, flag lieutenant. 

Lieutenant Jacob J. Hunker, secretary to commander-in-chief. 

Midshipman John Hood, aide to commander-in-chief. 

General Staff. 

Medical Inspector C. H. Burbank, fleet surgeon. 
Paymaster W. Goldsborough, fleet paymaster. 
Chief Engineer W. W. Dungan, fleet engineer. 
Captain E. P. Meeker, U. S. M. C, fleet marine officer. 

J. H. S POTTS, 
Rear-Admiral Commanding, U. S. Naval Force, 

South Atlantic Station. 

From Monday afternoon until Thursday, February 2, we were 
unable to hold any communication with the shore on account of a 
severe gale. February 4 the " Shenandoah" put to sea, home- 
ward bound. Both crews manned the rigging and cheered ship. 
Having coaled, the following day we also put to sea, bound for 
Sandy Point, in the Straits of Magellan. We had a most de- 
lightful passage until near Cape Virgins. The Yirgins, however, 
gave us a cold and stormy reception, and on Monday, February 13, 
we were obliged to heave to, not being able to enter the straits. 
The next day we made the entrance, and at night anchored in 
Possession Bay. Wednesday we anchored in Gregory Bay. 
Thursday, February 16, we came to anchor off Elizabeth Island 
at about eight A.M. The admiral, Captain Weaver, and quite a 
party went on shore on a shooting expedition, and came back after 
having fine sport. The next day the same party went ashore again, 
and in the two hunting expeditions of a few hours each they 
brought back about one hundred wild geese. February 18 we 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 23 

reached Sandy Point, where we expected to receive a large mail. 
In this, however, we were disappointed, and the admiral decided 
to remain till the arrival of the next mail steamer, due February 
25. In the mean time the usual visits of ceremony were exchanged 
between the admiral and the Chilian governor, and the latter in- 
vited the admiral and staff to join him in a horseback-ride about 
the settlement, but the admiral complained of a cold and did not 
accompany the party on this expedition. On February 28 we 
again put to sea, bound for Port Stanley, East Falkland, where we 
arrived without incident Saturday, March 4. 

Port Stanley is the seat of government of the Falkland Islands. 
It is a very pretty little harbor and perfectly land-locked on all 
sides. The entrance to the outer harbor is marked by a light- 
house on a point running out towards a number of rocks known 
as the Seal Rocks. The outer harbor is known as Port William, 
and is connected with the inner harbor by a narrow strait about 
one hundred feet wide and four hundred feet long. When we 
passed in at dusk, Saturday, March 4, it seemed to be scarcely wide 
enough to admit us. 

The Falkland Islands are now English settlements, but they 
have been held by a number of governments. The islands were 
discovered by Cavendish in 1592, but they are not known to have 
been inhabited before the French took possession of them, the 
first part of this century. The Spanish. English, and the govern- 
ment of Buenos Ayres held them at different times, but did not 
hold them permanently. 

While held by Buenos Ayres, some Americans were maltreated, 
in consequence of which the U. S. S. " Lexington" bombarded 
the place and seized the islands. Our government claimed 
these islands until Secretary Seward was Secretary of State, 
when this claim was finally yielded and the proprietorship of 
England recognized by us, as well as by the rest of the world, 
except the government of Buenos Ayres, which still claims them 
as part of their territory. 



24 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The English have a number of settlements in the islands, 
twelve hundred people finding a home on them. The largest set- 
tlement is that of Stanley, where there are about five hundred and 
fifty people, men, women, and children, the latter being unusually 
numerous. 

The soil is barren, trees are unknown, and very little vegetation 
is found except short grass and field flowers. The chief industry 
is that of sheep-raising. The wool from these sheep is very fine 
and is the main source of income. It requires an average of four 
acres of this land to maintain one sheep, while in the United 
States several sheep are amply supported on one acre of land. 
Every year, however, brings improvement in the soil, and in time 
it promises to be quite an important place. 

The wind blows nearly all the time with a velocity of from 
twenty to fifty miles per hour, often being accompanied with rain. 
Not a single day passes without rain, more or less copious. The 
climate is, however, a very healthy one ; the fresh wind keeps up a 
perfect ventilation, and doctors have very little to do. 

The town itself is like one of our own new settlements. The 
frame houses, with gable-windows in the roof and smoking chim- 
ney-tops, gave the place a homelike aspect as seen from the ship. 

Peat is the principal fuel. It abounds on the hills close at hand, 
and is very generally used. Peat is a carbonized vegetable matter. 
It has a dark-brown color, and is dug out of the earth in cubical 
blocks, and then piled up to dry, two weeks' exposure to the sun 
and wind being requisite before it is fit for fuel. It makes a 
pretty grate-fire, but burns with a great deal of smoke, having 
a peculiar odor, which though not disagreeable yet permeates 
everything. 

There is very little commerce with the rest of the world. Some 
seal-fishers come in occasionally, and there is a line of steamers 
which call here once in about six weeks. Whalers come in once 
in a while, but the present compulsory pilot laws keep most of 
them out. The only other vessels that come in are those in dis- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 25 

tress, several fine vessels being in the harbor unable to get away 
or have their masts and rigging repaired. The people of Stanley 
have strong hopes that the English government will establish a 
regular naval depot at Port Stanley, several of the most desirable 
parts of the harbor being reserved by the government. 

On Monday, March 6, we fired a national salute of twenty-one 
guns with the English flag at the fore, which was at once returned 
gun for gun. The next day the admiral and his entire staff" 
made an official visit to the governor, being saluted with thirteen 
guns on landing. 

We commenced to coal ship at eight o'clock Thursday morning, 
March 9. Fires were started at noon, when the governor made 
his official visit. At this time the admiral was suddenly taken 
sick, and fires were banked again. 

THE DEATH OF REAK-ADMIBAL JAMES H. SPOTTS. 

It has pleased Almighty God in his infinite wisdom to remove 
our beloved commander-in-chief, Rear-Admiral James H. Spotts, 
from our midst. He was stricken with apoplexy while receiving 
an official visit from the governor of the Falkland Islands, at 
12.30 p.m., March 9, 1882. It appears that he was seized with 
a fit of sneezing, and the effort produced a rush of blood to the 
head, which rendered him semi-unconscious ; he attempted to rise 
from his chair, but fell forward on his hands and knees. Captain 
Weaver, the governor, and his son raised him on to the transom, 
and Drs. Burbank, Martin, and Steele were at once summoned to 
attend him. They did all that human skill could possibly do, but 
to no avail. In fifteen minutes the admiral became entirely un- 
conscious, and gradually sank, and died at 10.41 that night. 

It was at first intended to take his remains to Montevideo, 
but this was found to be inexpedient, as the body could not be 
properly embalmed for want of proper appliances, and if only im- 
perfectly done, delay, or any accident of storm and weather to the 
ship en route, would have necessitated its burial at sea. Stanley, 



26 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

in being an English port, is more like our own country than any 
other place on the station, and as events proved, the people on 
shore paid his remains every possible mark of respect, and his 
grave will be honored for all time in the history of the islands. 

Lieutenant Beehler was placed in charge of the remains, and 
prepared them for burial, and a number of officers voluntarily 
kept watch by the body until the funeral, on Saturday, March 11. 

Rear- Admiral James H. Spotts was born in North Carolina, 
March 11, 1822, and was appointed a midshipman in the navy from 
Kentucky, August 2, 1837. He made a cruise around the world 
in the "John Adams," 1837 to 1840, and engaged in two battles 
on the island of Sumatra in 1839. From 1841 to 1842 he served 
on the Brazil Station in the "Delaware" and "Potomac." He was 
promoted to passed midshipman June 29, 1843, and cruised in 
the West Indies and coast of Africa in the " St. Lawrence," " Fal- 
mouth," and " Southampton" in 1843, 1844, and 1845. Promoted 
to master April, 1850, and lieutenant November of the same 
year. He served in the Pacific in the " Lexington" from 1846 to 
1849, and again in the " Portsmouth" from 1851 to 1855. During 
the Mexican war he was on the blockade on the west coast, and 
participated in the capture of San Bias, Mazatlan, La Paz, etc. 
He was in the " Michigan" on the lakes from 1856 to 1858, and 
the " Cyane" and " Saranac," Pacific coast, from 1858 to 1860. 
In 1861 he joined the " Santee" on the Gulf Squadron, and there 
took his first command, that of the " Wanderer," 1861 and 1862. 
He also commanded the " Magnolia" in the latter part of 1862. 
He was commissioned as commander in July of the same year, and 
commanded the " South Carolina" in 1863, and the " Pawtucket" in 
1864 and 1865. From 1865 to 1867 he served as executive of 
the Mare Island Navy-yard. He was commissioned as captain 
July 25, 1866, and commanded the " Saranac" in 1870 and 1871, 
and also the "Pensacola," 1871 and 1872, in the Pacific, after 
which he was light-house inspector on that coast until 1874. He 
was commissioned as commodore September 25, 1873, and served 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 27 

as inspector of government vessels from 1877 to 1880. During the 
war of the Rebellion he served in the Gulf, North and South Atlan- 
tic Blockading Squadrons. He was at both engagements with Fort 
Fisher, and those with the batteries on Cape Fear River, and sev- 
eral minor engagements while on the blockade. He was up James 
River when Richmond was taken. He received orders to com- 
mand the United States naval force, South Atlantic Station, on 
May 5, 1881, and was promoted to rear-admiral on the 28th 
of the same month. He relieved Rear- Admiral Bryson, on board 
the U. S. flag-ship " Shenandoah," at Rio de Janeiro, on July 
25 following. He transferred his flag from the " Shenandoah" 
to the " Brooklyn" on January 30 of this year, and started on 
a cruise to visit the ports within the limits of the station. 

He was within two days of being sixty years old when he died, 
and his death was a painful shock to us all, and a great loss to our 
country, which he served with distinction and fidelity for forty-five 
years. The admiral was a very genial gentleman, and was much 
beloved by all who knew him. He made his home in California, 
where, as will be seen from his record, he passed the greater por- 
tion of his life. Becoming identified with the people on the Pa- 
cific slope, his death was a great blow to a host of friends. He 
left a widow, two sons, and one daughter. 

The remains of Admiral Spotts were laid in state in a semi- 
metallic casket on a catafalque on the quarter-deck the day of the 
funeral. His sword and cocked hat were placed on the casket, 
which also was covered with a number of beautiful floral tributes, 
kindly sent by the ladies on shore. Marines were posted at each 
angle, and the ship's company were given an opportunity to take 
a last look at the features of our late commander-in-chief. At 
1.45 p.m. the assembly was sounded and the funeral escort formed. 
The marines were drawn up on the port side of the quarter-deck, 
while two companies of sailors formed in the port gangway. The 
band was posted abaft the mainmast, and the rest of the ship's 
company came aft in the starboard gangway. 



28 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Governor Kerr, the United States consul, the Hon. Mr. Dean, 
vice-consul, and Mr. Kerr stood with the officers on the starboard 
side of the quarter-deck. The band then played " Nearer, my 
God, to Thee," after which Bishop Stirling, Colonial Chaplain 
Brandon, and Chaplain Royce came from the cabin and read the 
burial service of the Episcopal Church. After the bishop had 
read the lesson the following hymn was sung, accompanied by a 
portion of the band : 

" My God, my Father, while I stray, 
Far from my home on life's rough way, 
Oh, teach me from my heart to say, 
'Thy will be done.' 

" Though dark my path, and sad my lot, 
Let me be still and murmur not, 
And breathe the prayer divinely taught, 
' Thy will be done.' 

"What though in lonely grief I sigh 
For friends beloved no longer nigh, 
Submissive still would I reply, 
' Thy will be done.' 

" If thou shouldst call me to resign 
What most I prize, — it ne'er was mine; 
I only yield thee what is thine, — 
' Thy will be done.' " 

The marines, band, and two companies then went ashore in the 
boats in tow of the steam-launch. While they were on the way 
the casket was closed and hoisted out over the starboard gangway, 
being piped over the side and lowered into the barge, in which it 
was taken ashore with the pall-bearers and barge's crew composing 
the body-bearers. A salute of thirteen minute-guns was fired 
while on the way ashore, the steam-launch towing all the boats. 
As soon as they reached the shore Lieutenant-Commander Anthony 
took command of the escort, and drew them up in line, presenting 
arms as the remains passed by to take position in the line. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 29 

The procession then started towards the cemetery, headed by 
the band, in charge of Midshipman Cahoon, then the full marine 
guard, under command of Captain Meeker. The bishop and two 
chaplains followed the marines, after which came the bier, borne 
by the twelve bargemen selected as body-bearers, in charge of 
Midshipman Ripley, the admiral's aide. The pall-bearers were 
Chief Engineer Dungan, Paymaster Goldsborough, Passed Assist- 
ant Surgeon Martin, Lieutenants Beehler and Hunker, and Passed 
Assistant Surgeon Steele. 

The admiral's coxswain followed the bier with the admiral's flag 
wrapped with crape. Two companies of sailors, under command 
of Lieutenants Sebree and Handy, with Lieutenant Calhoun as 
adjutant, came next, followed by the rest of the officers in inverse 
order according to rank, Governor Kerr and his council walking 
with our officers. 

The whole population of Stanley joined in the funeral honors, 
and did their utmost to express their sympathy with us in our be- 
reavement. While marching to the cemetery the band played a 
funeral march from Beethoven and " Flee as a Bird," and the 
battery on shore fired a salute of thirteen minute-guns. Reaching 
the cemetery, the marines formed in line on one side of the grave, 
with the sailors on the left, and the officers and citizens on the 
right, while the bishop read the sentences from the prayer-book. 
The casket was then removed from the bier and placed over the 
grave ; the sword, hat, and flowers having been removed, it was 
solemnly lowered into the grave, while the band played a dirge and 
the marines presented arms. Chaplain Royce then said the com- 
mittal service, and the bishop read the concluding prayers and 
pronounced the benediction. The marine guard then fired three 
volleys of musketry over the grave, and the funeral procession 
marched to the landing, and returned to the ship in boats in tow 
of the steam-launch. 

The lot was kindly presented by His Excellency Governor T. 
Kerr, and is in the centre of the cemetery, on a hill overlooking 

3 



30 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

the harbor, directly opposite the anchorage. The grave is a solid 
structure of stone and brick built in the earth, while the casket 
rests in an outer case of two-inch ash. The grave is marked 
by a handsome wooden cross covered with copper, and bears the 
inscription, — 

Rear-Admiral James H. Spotts, U.S.N. 

Died March 9, 1882. 

Aged 60 Tears. 

At sunset the admiral's flag was hoisted and saluted with 
thirteen guns, and then hauled down, and the long pennant of 
Captain A. W. Weaver was broken at the main. 

A SQUADRON ORDER. 
In consequence of the death of Rear- Admiral Spotts, Captain 
A. W. Weaver assumed command of the South Atlantic Station 
in the following general order : 

Squadron Order ] U. S. S. " Brooklyn," Stanley, Falkland Islands, 

No. 1. J March 13, 1882. 

It has become my sad duty to announce to the squadron that the commander- 
in-chief, Rear-Admiral James H. Spotts, died of apoplexy on board this ship 
at this port at 10.41 p.m. on the 9th instant. 

In accordance with United States Navy Regulations, page 32, paragraph 60, 
I have assumed command of the South Atlantic Station from that date, and 
shall exercise the power and authority of senior officer until officially notified 
of the arrival within the limits of the station of the officer duly appointed as 
commander-in-chief. 

' All orders and regulations relating to the squadron established by my pre- 
decessor will remain in force, excepting as they may hereafter be modified by 
me. 

The officers composing the personal staff of the late commander-in-chief 
will cease to exercise their duties in accordance with United States Navy 
Regulations, page 35, paragraph 12. 

A. W. WEAVER, 
Captain Commanding, U. S. Naval Force, 
South Atlantic Station. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 31 



CHAPTER III. 

Departure from Port Stanley — The Gale off the Mouth of the River Plate — 
The first " General Liberty" for the Ship's Company — The Stupid Arrest 
of " Perfectly Sober" Liberty-men — The Successful Cruise of the " Marion" 
— Search and Rescue of Shipwrecked Seamen on Heard Island in the 
Antarctic Ocean — The " Pamperos" — The " Brooklyn" run into by Steamer 
" Mozart" — Courtesy of Uruguayan Authorities and other Men-of-War at 
Montevideo — The Assistance rendered to the burning American Bark 
" Jonathan Chase" — The "Brooklyn" Base-Ball Nine. 

On Monday, March. 13, we fired a salute of seventeen guns, 
with the English flag at the fore, in honor of Governor T. Kerr's 
visit on March 9, the salute not having been fired at that time 
owing to the sudden illness of the admiral. 

The divisions went ashore for target-practice with the Hotchkiss 
magazine-rifles and the Remington navy-pistol. The range was 
laid out on the side of the hill on the naval reservation, one hun- 
dred yards for the rifles and twenty-five yards for the Remington 
pistols at a single target. The practice is considered fair for the 
first time, the best score being made by John Winters, carpenter, 
belonging to the powder division, his score being perfect, three 
bull's-eyes. 

At 10.7 A.M. on Tuesday, March 14, we got under way under 
steam and stood out of the harbor, and then shaped our course 
around the eastern end of Falkland Islands direct for Monte- 
video. We experienced very good weather from Stanley for the 
first four days, and the ship went along about nine knots per hour 
until the evening of the 18th, when we had a moderate gale from 
the southwest. The gale continued all that night and the next 
day, during which the ship lay to under fore storm-staysail, main 
trysail, and storm-mizzen on the starboard tack. The greatest roll 



32 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

during the gale was fourteen degrees to windward and twenty-five 
to leeward. 

The gale abated at sunrise on the 21st of March, and we then 
stood in for the anchorage off Montevideo. We anchored some 
distance below the city at 12.13 a.m. on the 22d, and then got 
under way again at 9 A.M. and proceeded up nearer the city, 
where we anchored at 9.45 a.m. 

The mail came off during the afternoon, and a despatch was 
sent to the Secretary of the Navy announcing the death of the 
admiral. The despatch contained but fifteen words and cost 
thirteen pounds sterling, or four dollars and seven cents per word 
in Uruguayan money, — four dollars and twenty-two cents in 
United States coin. The despatch read : 

Secretary Navy, Washington : 

Admiral Spotts died Stanley, Falkland Islands, March ninth. Apoplexy. 
Buried there. 

Weaver. 

On Saturday, March 25, we got under way and stood down the 
river for target-practice, coming to anchor at 8.45 a.m. about nine 
miles below the city of Montevideo. The English flag-ship 
" Garnet" got under way about the same time, and also had target- 
practice during the day. 

A regulation target was then sent out and anchored abreast 
of the ship. At 11.30 a.m. we went to general quarters and com- 
menced to fire at the target. An exercise torpedo was also rigged 
out on the starboard forward torpedo-boom and duly exploded. 
We anchored in the afternoon, and ceased to drill at 3.42 p.m. 
We then remained at anchor all the next day, it being Sunday, 
and resumed the target-practice Monday morning. Improvised 
targets were sent out on each beam early Monday morning, March 
27, about eleven hundred yards distant, and six rounds were fired 
from each gun. The starboard target was carried away by a shell 
from No. 6 gun, fired by H. E. Collyer, ordinary seaman. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 33 

The projectiles from the 8-inch rifle invariably struck very 
close to the target, and the accuracy of this gun inspired the 
greatest confidence. The 60-pounder breech-loading rifle was the 
most inaccurate of all. Five rounds were also fired from each of 
the four Hotchkiss revolving cannon. 

At 10.55 a.m. we got under way, and returned to the anchorage 
oflF the city of Montevideo. Visits of courtesy were then re- 
ceived from H. B. M. S. " Garnet," the Brazilian steamer 
" Sete de Setembro," and the Italian flag-ship " Carracciolo." 

We found considerable excitement on shore owing to some 
mal-treatment of Italian subjects by the Uruguayan police. The 
Italians demanded redress, and, after considerable diplomatic cor- 
respondence and a judicial investigation by the courts, the Uru- 
guayan government agreed to pay twenty-five thousand francs to 
each of the two Italians — Volpi and Patroni — and to salute the 
Italian flag when the Italian legation was re-established. This 
salute of twenty-one guns was returned by the Italian flag-ship, 
gun for gun. 

On Wednesday, March 29, forty-eight hours' liberty was given 
to the starboard watch. As this was the first " general libei-ty" 
granted since the ship went into commission, it of course occa- 
sioned considerable excitement among the men, and this excite- 
ment became so intense soon after their arrival on shore that the 
Uruguayan authorities found it necessary to invite several of the 
most demonstrative to the cabildo, where they were permitted to 
remain until they cooled off. 

When the men finally got back to the ship, the events which 
had occurred during the " general liberty" were thoroughly dis- 
cussed, and many wild and thrilling yarns were told. If* was 
claimed that liberty-men had been assaulted in the streets by 
drunken citizens, robbed by hotel- keepers, insulted by policemen, 
and finally arrested and shoved in the "jug" without cause. Two 
marines had some trouble to find lodgings, and not being able to 
speak Spanish, tried to make their wants known by signs and ges- 



34 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

ticulations to a policeman. The stupid policeman fancied the men 
were going to strike him, and a row soon ens'ued, which culmi- 
nated in the arrest of the marines by about six or eight policemen, 
who lodged them in the cabildo for several days. 

One sailor found a coat lying in the street, about two o'clock in 
the morning, and thought he had found a prize, but was soon 
afterwards arrested for stealing. When his case came up in 
court, he explained to the court that he was from Ohio, and the 
judge promptly released him, recognizing the well-known fact that 
people in Ohio generally " take things," political offices included. 
The remainder of the ship went on liberty in smaller detachments, 
until finally every one in the ship had made the acquaintance of 
Montevideo. 

OBITUARY. 

William Brown, captain of the after-guard, died at 4.20 a.m., 
on April 13, of pneumonia, in the fifty-eighth year of his age. 
The deceased was born at Baton Rouge, Louisiana, and served in 
the navy for twenty-four years previous to this enlistment. He 
was a faithful man, spoke Spanish fluently, and was often called 
upon to act as interpreter. He stood high in the estimation of 
his shipmates, who were very anxious to express their sense of 
his death by contributing generously for his funeral expenses, 
thus providing a handsome black cloth casket. The funeral took 
place the next day, with the usual naval honors. A Boman Cath- 
olic priest conducted the services on board and also at the vault. 
The marine guard fired three volleys when the funeral escort left 
the ship under command of Lieutenant Handy. His remains 
were deposited in niche No. 39, second row, in the Central Ceme- 
tery, Montevideo, this niche being the property of the crew of the 
" Brooklyn." 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 35 

THE RESCUE OF THE CREW OF THE AMERICAN BARK 
" TRINITY." 

The bark " Trinity" sailed from New London for Heard Island 
June 1, 1880, having a crew of sixteen men all told. On June 
25 she reached Fogo, one of the Cape de Verde Islands, where 
she shipped nineteen colored natives in addition to her crew. She 
reached Heard Island October 2, 1880. On October 17, while 
at anchor off the island, she dragged during a heavy northeast 
gale and went on the beach bows on. The crew succeeded in get- 
ting ashore without loss of life. The wind then shifted, and the 
bark was blown off the beach to seaward and never seen again. 
Some provisions had been thrown overboard before the ship went 
ashore, and the crew sustained themselves on these and sea-ele- 
phants' meat and sea-fowl for about fifteen months, but starvation 
was imminent when the " Marion" came to their rescue. 

The " Marion" sailed from Monteviedo for Heard Island on 
November 14, 1881, via Cape Town, Africa. She left Cape Town 
December 24, and arrived off Heard Island January 12, 1882. 

The " Marion" discovered the crew of the " Trinity" about five 
P.M., January 12, at the foot of a mountain. Signals were made 
at once, and the crew kept up a bright bonfire during the night to 
prove that they were present. The next morning the " Marion" 
lowered her boats and brought off thirty of the crew. Three 
others were rescued the next day from the other end of the island, 
while two others — George Watson, carpenter, and Bernard Kelly, 
seaman — had died January 30, 1881, from exposure while hunt- 
ing for food. 

The " Marion" arrived at Cape Town February 20, 1882, and 
delivered the rescued crew of the " Trinity" to the American 
consul at that place. 

Commander Silas Terry, commanding the " Marion," tele- 
graphed his success to the Navy Department, and at New London, 
Connecticut, there was great rejoicing among the friends of the 



36 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

rescued crew, who gave the " Marion" a great deal of well-deserved 
praise. 

We saw a very interesting account in the Cape Times of Cape 
Town, Africa, of assistance rendered by the " Marion" in floating 
the English ship " Poonah," which was stranded in Table Bay. 
The sea was very high, and they had considerable difficulty in 
running the lines. The " Marion" parted her hawsers twice, but 
moved the ship about fifty feet in all, so that when the next 
tide rose the ship floated off and was saved from being a total 
wreck. 

During March and April, 1882, the "Brooklyn" lay at anchor 
in the roadstead off Montevideo, where she rode out a number 
of the celebrated, but none the less unpleasant, " pamperos." The 
starboard sheet-anchor was let go three times, April 21 and 29, 
and May 6, and the last time it blew so heavy that it was found 
necessary to get up steam for fear that we might drag, as did 
almost every other vessel in the harbor. 

The " pamperos" were certainly bad enough, but to crown our 
sum of misfortune the ship was rammed by the steamer " Mozart" 
at 7.10 p.m. on the 1st of May, and badly damaged. This col- 
lision was totally inexcusable. The ship was lying at anchor with 
ample room on all sides for passing vessels, while the evening was 
partially moonlit and the sea smooth. The " Mozart," of the Lam- 
port & Holt Steamship Company, in charge of Captain Pym, had 
been at anchor near us during the day, and was coming out on 
her way to Buenos Ayres, when the officer of the deck, Lieutenant 
H. 0. Handy, saw that she was coming dangerously near. 

He hailed the steamer and warned her to keep clear, and at the 
same time told them to back the engines. His warning was not 
heeded, and the steamer came on until she struck the " Brooklyn" 
on the starboard quarter, abreast of the air-port of the third state- 
room in the wardroom, crushing through the spare jib-boom, which 
was lashed alongside, and cutting the ship down through twenty- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 37 

two planks from the port-sill streak to about four feet below tbe 
water-line. 

The force of the blow was very violent, and the crash as heard 
below was as if she would be cut in two. The officers and crew 
promptly came on deck, — it is believed none delayed getting up 
there, — and prompt measures were at once taken for the safety of 
the ship and crew. The " Mozart'' backed out very soon after 
colliding, and the ship was at once heeled over to bring the star- 
board side out of water as far as possible. The starboard boats 
were all lowered, the starboard battery run in and shifted to port, 
and steam was ordered in the port boilers so as to be able to use 
the steam- pumps, if necessary, and also to still further increase 
the list to port. 

The " Mozart" had about two thousand tons of freight, and the 
force with which she struck would have sunk any less stanch a 
ship. The damages were carefully examined the nest morning by 
a board of survey, consisting of Chief Engineer W. W. Dungan, 
Lieutenant-Commander C. M. Anthony, and Carpenter J. S. Wal- 
termeyer. From their examination it was found that the spare jib- 
boom saved the ship from total destruction. The ship was struck 
at an angle of forty-five degrees, and the shock was transmitted 
diagonally across from No. 3 state-room on the starboard side of 
the wardroom over to the forward part of the port steerage. This 
course was marked by broken and sprung timbers, while the open 
seams on the spar-deck and poop were further evidence of the severe 
strain to which the ship was subjected. 

The barge was badly stove in and its forward davits broken ; 
but the ship made no water, and the breach in the ship's side was 
promptly closed by the energetic measures taken by Carpenter J. 
S. Waltermeyer and his gang of shipwrights, whose work deserves 
our highest commendation. 

The captain of the " Mozart" acted very manly in acknowledg- 
ing himself to blame and in asking if he could be of any assistance 
as soon as he collided, but this was not necessary ; he then came 



38 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

on board, but the only explanation he could give of his stupidity 
was that it was unintentional and that he thought he would pass 
clear astern. The " Mozart" did not sustain the least injury, 
having struck with her sharp straight stem. No persons were 
injured. 

Boats, tugs, and steamers swarmed around the ship, and offers 
of assistance were most generously made by the authorities on 
shore and the Italian and British men-of-war. The Uruguayan 
government sent off two tugs to lay by the ship all night and 
render any assistance which might be needed, and also a govern- 
ment pilot in case it should be deemed practicable to go into the 
dry-dock. 

The dry-dock owned by Cibils & Co. is a magnificent structure, 
but, unfortunately, the channel leading to it is shallow, narrow, 
and rock-bound. Some parties claimed that seventeen feet of 
water could be carried into the dock, and on the strength of this 
Captain Weaver began to take measures to lighten the ship to that 
draught. The ship's company at once commenced to discharge 
provisions and coal into the lighters, working night and day by 
watches for that purpose. The provisions were stored in the cus- 
tom-house, and coal was sent in lighters. It was very tedious 
work to get the coal out of the after-bunker, because it all had 
to come up through the ash-shute, after being carried around 
and through the engine-room in buckets of one hundred pounds 
each. 

Captain Weaver was not satisfied with the vague assertions con- 
cerning the depth of the channel leading to the dry-dock, and on 
Wednesday morning following he made a personal examination 
with Chief Engineer Dungan and Lieutenant-Commander An- 
thony as to the nature and depth of this channel, from which he 
found it to be impossible to take the ship into the dry-dock ; and 
he, therefore, decided to go to Bio de Janeiro as soon as he could 
make the ship sea-worthy, and dock the ship there. 

The carpenter and his gang closed the breach temporarily the 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 39 

same night by the following means : the side was covered with 
tarred canvas, planked over by two-inch planks, which were 
calked and again covered with tarred canvas, and the whole 
sheathed over with three- inch pine. 

Captain Amazega, of the Italian corvette " Carracciolo," was 
very courteous in offering his services, and when he heard that 
we would have to go to Rio he offered to convoy us there, and 
to be of any further assistance as might be necessary. The cap- 
tain of H. B. M. S. " Rifleman" was also very courteous, and 
at the time of the collision he was about to get up steam and 
come out to our assistance, but found it was not necessary to 
do so. 

The Italian corvette " Carracciolo" left here at ten a.m., May 11, 
for the Pacific. When she got under way she exchanged compli- 
mentary signals with us, and Captain Weaver signalled him a 
pleasant voyage. 

THE BURNING OF THE "JONATHAN CHASE." 

On the morning of May 9 the American bark " Jonathan 
Chase," Captain Costigan, lying off Montevideo, caught fire and 
was totally destroyed, notwithstanding the assistance rendered by 
the " Brooklyn." 

The fire was first discovered by those on board about midnight. 
At the time her captain was on shore and the vessel was in charge 
of the first mate. The mate and crew did everything in their 
power to save the ship, but were unable to get the fire under 
control. As the greater portion of the cargo was made up of pe- 
troleum, glycerine, and kerosene, an explosion was feared, and con- 
sequently, at one A.M., the " Jonathan Chase" was abandoned by 
all hands. 

The boats from the bark pulled in to the " Brooklyn" for refuge, 
and to ask if assistance could be rendered. This was the first 
that was known of the fire, the flames being invisible, as they 
were entirely confined below hatches. 



40 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

As soon as the facts were reported to Captain Weaver, two 
cutters were immediately called away, and Lieutenant Calhoun and 
Midshipman Ripley volunteered to go in charge of the boats, board 
the bark, and make an attempt to save her. The crew of the bark 
were very much afraid of an explosion, and some of them would 
not return in the cutter and assist our men. The boats' crews, 
however, were not afraid of anything, and boarded the bark in 
spite of many warnings. First the deck -load of glycerine was 
hove overboard. The bark was then examined, and it was found 
that the fire had gained such headway that it was beyond control. 
A second time the bark was abandoned, but not until the ship's 
papers had been obtained, together with all the personal effects of 
the captain and crew. 

Later, by request of Captain Costigan and by the consent of the 
port authorities, an attempt was made to sink the vessel and thereby 
save a portion of the cargo, which could easily be obtained after- 
wards by raising the hull. A howitzer was lowered into one of the 
cutters, and Midshipman Ripley volunteered to take charge. The 
attempt failed. Although several holes were blown through her 
sides, they were not far enough below the water-line to allow the 
water to flow in with sufficient rapidity to sink the vessel in time. 

By eight A.M. it was blowing fresh ; a pampero had set in and 
the sea was beginning to rise. About nine o'clock the bark was 
given up and left to her fate, it being too rough for a boat to lay 
alongside. Soon after Midshipman Ripley left the vessel her 
masts went by the board with all the rigging. 



EXTRACT FROM THE "BUENOS AYRES HERALD." 
"EROM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT. 

"Montevideo, May 5, 1882. 

" To the Editor op the ' Herald.' 

" Sir, — In conversation with Captain Costigan, of the ' Jonathan 
Chase,' the other day, I was greatly pleased to hear him speak so 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 41 

highly of several of the officers of the U. S. S. ' Brooklyn,' who 
assisted him during the terrible destruction of his vessel. He 
particularly mentioned Lieutenants Calhoun and Jackson, and 
Midshipman Ripley, who aided him and his officers and crew 
in saving their personal effects on board at considerable risk 
and trouble, and afterwards tendered him and his crew every as- 
sistance and condolence that lay in their power. This tribute, 
coming as it did from an experienced mariner, must be highly 
gratifying to those gentlemen who so nobly earned it, and I sin- 
cerely hope that the copy of the Herald with this Montevidean 
letter in it will find its way on to the table of the Secretary of the 
Navy at Washington. Gallant conduct, such as shown by those 
gentlemen on the morning of the 9th instant, is deserving of all 
praise and publicity, and I hope that they will live to prosper in 
the noble profession they have chosen." 

The " Jonathan Chase" was from New York bound for Valpa- 
raiso, and had put into Montevideo to repair her rudder and 
mizzen-mast. Part of the cargo had been landed for these repairs, 
which was thus fortunately saved. The ship and cargo were only 
partially insured. Captain Costigan lost nearly all his savings by 
this dreadful disaster. 

BASE-BALL. 

The "Brooklyn" base-ball nine, composed of the officers and 
apprentices of the " Brooklyn," was organized on April 1, and con- 
siderable interest was taken in this sport. The manager of the Eng- 
lish Cricket Club having kindly tendered the use of the grounds, 
a practice game was played there April 28, in which the boys came 
out second best. It was then decided to hold a match game May 
1, and a number of ladies and gentlemen were invited, about fifty 
attending. The officers appeared in white caps, leggings, and 
shirts, and blue pants ; the boys in blue. Both sides played ten 
men. The game commenced at about 2.30 p.m. The boys won 



42 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

the toss and sent the officers to the bat. The boys had reorgan- 
ized their nine and appeared to better advantage, and their new 
pitcher, McCabe, puzzled for a while the heavy batters among 
the officers, several of them striking and fouling out, and they 
found that they had to be very careful in running bases, McCabe 
kept such a sharp lookout on them. Nothing of particular interest 
occurred in the first three innings, in which the officers slightly 
led. In the fourth inning the game commenced to be interesting, 
as the boys made three runs and tied the score. In the sixth and 
seventh innings the officers got on to McCabe's pitching, several 
two- and three-baggers and single-base hits being made, which gave 
the fielders plenty of exercise. Eleven runs were the result of 
these two innings. This settled the game, as the boys seemed to 
be discouraged, and only added one run more to their score. At 
five P.M., owing to the lateness of the hour, game was called, the 
score standing twenty to nine in favor of the officers. Lieutenant 
Calhoun and Passed Assistant Surgeon Steele excelled at the bat, 
the former making a beautiful drive to centre field for three bases. 
Lieutenant Hunker also made a pretty three-bagger. The boys 
were weak at the bat, not being able to gauge Mr. Goldsborough's 
delivery. On the part of the officers, Lieutenants Calhoun and 
Hunker and Cadet-Engineer Beach excelled in the field, the former 
making two« beautiful and difficult foul catches, one after a hard 
run and the other after falling on his back. Mr. Beach's play at 
first base was all that could be desired. Wright excelled in the 
field on the part of the boys, both as first baseman and afterwards 
as catcher, and caught McCabe's swift delivery manfully. Allen 
caught well in the first part of the game, but had to retire to short 
stop on account of injuring a finger. Lieutenant Beehler filled 
the position of umpire very satisfactorily, and pluckily received 
several hot balls on his feet and arms. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 



43 



OFFICERS 
Names and Position. 

Lt. G. A. Calhoun, c. & s. s. 

Lt. J. J. Hunker, s. s. & c. 

P. A. Surg. J. M. Steele, 1. f. 

2d Lt. S. L. Jackson, r. s. s. 

A. Eng. S. H. Leonard, 2d b. 

Mid'n J. B. Cahoon, 3d b. 

Cadet-Mid'n G. E. Perry, e. f. 

Cadet-Eng. R. J. Beach, 1st b. 

Pay-Clerk Goldsborough, p. 

Lt. H. 0. Handy, r. f. 



T. B. 1 B. 
5 3 



APPRENTICE-BOYS. 
Names and Position. 
John McCabe, p. 
C. B. Allen, c. & s. s. 
R. M. Wright, 1st b. & c. . 
C. P. Gibbons, 2d b. & 1st b. 
G. A. Benezech, s. s. & 2d b. 
W. H. Knoblesdorf, 3d b. 
J. F. Spolders, c. f. . 
B. H. Bryan, 1. f. 
P. Burkhard, r. f. 
P. A. Patti, r. s. s. 



t. b. 1b. r. 



Officers . . 
Apprentice-boys 



SCORE BY INNINGS. 

12 3 4 
.14 2 1 
.13 13 



4 





1 


2 


4 








3 


4 


1 


1 


2 


4 








3 


3 








2 


3 





1 


2 


3 





1 


2 


3 


1 


2 


1 


4 





2 


2 


3 





1 


2 


5 


6 


7 


T. 


1 


4 


7- 


-20 








1- 


- 9 



Three-base hits, Lieutenants Calhoun and Hunker; two-base hits, Passed 
Assistant Surgeon Steele (2), Assistant Engineer Leonard, and Cadet-Engineer' 
Beach. Umpire, Lieutenant Wm. H. Beehler. 



44 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 



CHAPTER IV. 

The Arrival of the " Essex" and " Marion" at Montevideo — Closing the 
Breach made by the " Mozart" — Departure for Rio de Janeiro — The Death 
of Henry Jones, Boatswain's Mate — The Burial at Sea — Obituary Notices — 
Description of the Voyage and Arrival at Rio — Rear-Admiral and Mrs. 
Crosby arrive at Rio, and the Admiral assumes Command of the South At- 
lantic Squadron — The Feast of Corpus Christi at Rio — Preparations for en- 
tering the Dry-dock — The Presentation of the Admiral and Officers to His 
Majesty Dom Pedro and the Empress — Lieutenant Beehler's Experiments 
■with the Electric Lights — Brilliant Illumination of the Ship in the Dry- 
dock. 

The U. S. S. " Essex" arrived from Cape Palinas, Africa, on 
May 16, and brought us a mail from the United States sent 
shortly after we left, last December. The " Essex" was boarded 
as soon as the health officer made his visit, and the first boat 
took her mail, which had been gradually accumulating at Monte- 
video, and a supply of fresh provisions for the wardroom oflicers, 
thoughtfully sent by the wardroom oflicers of this ship. The 
" Essex" had been forty-one days at sea, and the oflicers hailed 
the sight of these fresh provisions with the greatest delight. 
She was en route to the Pacific via Magellan Straits, and intended 
to remain at Montevideo about four weeks. May 18 we had 
some practice with Very's night signals with the " Essex," which 
was highly satisfactory, and proved these signals to be very much 
superior to the Coston signals formerly in use in our service. 

The U. S. S. " Marion" arrived in port at 9.30 p.m. on May 
22 from the Cape of Good Hope, having been highly successful 
in her mission to the rescue of the shipwrecked crew of the bark 
" Trinity." The " Marion" left the rescued crew at Cape of 
Good Hope, where they were sent home by the American consul. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 45 

The carpenters completed on May 23 the temporary repairs of 
the damages caused by the " Mozart" on May 1, and the work 
reflects great credit on our carpenter, Mr. J. S. Waltemeyer, and 
his efficient gang of mates. The patch looked very well, and at a 
little distance it was difficult to discern the exact whereabouts of the 
breach. The barge's forward davit was not replaced, however, 
and we were thus obliged to hoist the barge and third cutter on 
deck in the gangways. The whale-boat was hoisted at the third 
cutter's davits so as to be available as a life-boat at sea. 

The breach itself was repaired by bolting heavy pieces of oak, six- 
teen feet long, eight inches wide, and four inches thick, on both the 
frames on either side of the broken frame, and further strength- 
ened by long straps of pine, thirty feet long by eight inches wide 
and three inches thick. The five straps ran up at regular inter- 
vals between the port-sill streak and water-line. The spar-deck 
was also calked, and abutting pieces were placed in the third 
state-room in the wardroom to brace the weakened side from 
inboard. 

Lieutenant C. B. Gill received orders on May 17, by which 
he was detached from this ship with permission to proceed to 
his home at his own expense, with the understanding that his 
resignation would be accepted upon his arrival there. He was 
very homesick, and lost no time in leaving after receiving his 
orders. He left Montevideo in the French mail steamer " Dom 
Pedro" for Rio de Janeiro, and there took the Lamport & Holt 
steamer of May 25 for New York, where he probably arrived 
June 15. 

The following men were transferred to the " Marion" on the 
23d ult., they having been detailed for the " Marion" prior to our 
sailing from New York : Valentine Blanchard, finisher ; W. Gr. 
Caldwell and William Slavin, landsmen ; Thomas Russell, J. Innis, 
J. J. Dougherty, Dennis Feeney, A. S. Clawsou, and Alphonse 
Veys, marines. 

We got under way at noon, May 24, and proceeded to Rio. In 

4 



46 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

heaving up our starboard anchor, the chain cable was strained so 
much in breaking the anchor out of the mud that the third link 
from the club-link opened out, and parted just before it was high 
enough to hook the cat. An effort was made to hook the cat 
before the chain parted, but it gave way too soon, and the anchor 
dropped down into the mud beyond much hope of recovery. We 
proceeded on our course to Rio under steam, with clear and 
pleasant weather and light head-winds. 

Henry Jones, boatswain's mate, died of pneumonia at 10.45 
A.M., May 25, after an illness of five days. All hands were called 
to "bury the dead" at 4.45 p.m., and assembled as for muster on 
the quarter-deck. Chaplain Royce conducted the service accord- 
ing to the ritual of the Episcopal Church. The remains were 
carried aft in procession, headed by the chaplain, and followed by 
the band, six of the messmates of the deceased acting as pall- 
bearers. The remains were laid out in a hammock, with a nine- 
inch shot at the foot, and were carried on a bier to the starboard 
side of the break of the poop-deck, where they were committed 
to the deep in the hope of the final resurrection when the sea 
shall give up its dead in the end of time. The marines fired 
three volleys over the sea, the engines were started ahead, and we 
went on our way. 

May 30 the wind changed and came out from the southwest, 
when we made sail and banked fires, but the next morning the 
wind came out ahead again, and we spread fires and took in sail. 
We then experienced quite a heavy sea, and it was evident that 
we had escaped a " pampero." At 7.35 P.M. the officer of the 
deck gave a false alarm of " man overboard," which completely 
sold the ship's company. The life-boat's crew of the watch 
rushed aft to lower the life-boat, and the whole exercise was 
carried out as if one of our number had really fallen overboard, 
and not a few excitedly asked, " Who is it ?" and, " Why don't 
they hurry up ?" every second of time seeming to be an age in 




mm * 



ft 



m mi 




THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 47 

the anxiety. Later on the same evening we went to general quar- 
ters, and had a brush with an imaginary enemy. 

At 8.30 a.m., May 31, we sighted Raza Island light-house, and 
soon passed in among the beautiful islands outlying the bay of 
Rio de Janeiro. At ten A.M., while all hands were on deck 
drinking in the beautiful scenery, and endeavoring to decipher 
" Lord Hood's" nose and toes, said to be delineated by the top 
of the range of hills tending southward from the harbor's en- 
trance, the revery was suddenly disturbed by the ominous rattling 
roar of chain running out from the starboard bow. The engines 
were stopped immediately, and the chain soon brought up by the 
compressors. It was subsequently ascertained that the starboard 
sheet-anchor was secured by a defective iron link, and endeavored 
to seek the company of its lost mate at the bottom of the sea. 
The chain was then taken to the capstan and the anchor duly 
recovered. 

At noon we passed the renowned Sugar-Loaf, and at 12.30 p.m. 
we came to anchor in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The ship 
was then visited by the health officers and given pratique. "We 
also learnt that Rio has been exceptionally healthy for the past 
year, the last summer having been the most favorable season 
known for a whole decade. We then saluted the Brazilian flag 
with twenty-one guns, which were duly returned by the fort, and 
exchanged the usual visits of courtesy with the authorities. 

The following invalids were surveyed by the medical officers, 
and sent to the United States Naval Hospital at New York on the 
steamer " Biela," which left at nine A.M., Sunday, June 4 : Richard 
Burke, blacksmith ; W. H. Ingraham, seaman ; George Abbott, 
apprentice-boy ; James Sweeney and Murdick McKay, marine 
privates. 

Michael Craig, captain of the hold, was transferred to the hos- 
pital on shore at his own request, being too ill to make the journey 
to New York. He died subsequently, Sunday morning, June 11, 
after very long and painful suffering with Bright's disease. 



48 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

At sunset, Thursday, June 8, the Pacific Steam Navigation Com- 
pany's steamer ''• Araucania" arrived in port, with Rear- Admiral 
and Mrs. Pierce Crosby and Lieutenant Adolph Marix as passen- 
gers. Captain Weaver called on the admiral the same evening, 
and the next day he formally assumed command of the United 
States naval force on the South Atlantic Station. 

At ten a.m., Friday, June 9, Rear- Admiral Pierce Crosby came 
on board, and was received with the crew at quarters on the port 
side of the spar-deck, and the officers in full-dress uniform on the 
quarter deck. The usual ceremonies of introduction then took 
place, the marine guard presented arms, and a salute of thirteen 
guns was fired as the admiral's flag was hoisted at the mizzen, and 
the long pennant hauled down from the main. It was raining all 
day, and the customary inspection was therefore omitted. 

The admiral assumed command in the following squadron order : 

Squadron Order) U. S. F. S. "Brooklyn," Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 

No. 1. J June 9, 1882. 

By direction of the Honorable Secretary of the Navy, I have this day as- 
sumed command of the United States naval force on the South Atlantic 
Station. 

All Squadron Orders now in force will remain so until otherwise directed. 

PIERCE CROSBY, 
Rear-Admiral Commanding, U. S. Naval Force, 

on the South Atlantic Station. 

On June 14 he announced his staff in Squadron Order No. 2, 
as follows : 

Squadron Order l U. S. F. S. "Brooklyn," Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 

No. 2. J June 14, 1882. 

The following officers will compose my staff: 
Captain A. W. Weaver, chief of staff. 

General Staff. 
Medical Inspector C. H. Burbank, fleet surgeon. 
Chief Engineer W. W. Dungan, fleet engineer. 
Paymaster W. Goldsborough, fleet paymaster. 
Captain E. P. Meeker, fleet marine officer. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 49 

Personal Staff. 
Lieutenant A. Marix, senior aide and secretary. 
Midshipman C. S. Ripley, aide. 
Midshipman Thomas Snowden, aide. 

PIERCE CROSBY, 
Rear-Admiral Commanding, U. S. Naval Force, 

on the South Atlantic Station. 

Sunday, June 11, the officers were invited to a grand ball, given 
by the Chamber of Commerce of Rio to the distinguished Admiral 
Baron de Amazone, in commemoration of the Brazilian naval vic- 
tory at Riachuelo in the Paraguayan war on June 11, 1865. 

Preparations were made for thoroughly repairing the ship. The 
captain inspected the various docks, and sealed proposals were re- 
ceived from the principal firms in Rio for the work. The contract 
was awarded to Mr. Paul Taves, an American ship-builder, whose 
bid was several thousand dollars less than any of the others. 

The following order was issued as a sanitary precaution during 
the stay of the " Brooklyn" in this harbor: 

U. S. S. "Brooklyn," 2d rate, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 
May 31, 1882. 
The officers and men of this ship are earnestly enjoined to use every possible 
sanitary precaution to prevent infection during the stay of the ship at this 
port. 

To this end all articles received on board will be carefully inspected by the 
officer of the deck. One of the medical officers will inspect the bumboats; 
and unripe fruit, pineapples, and whatever else may be deemed unfit or in- 
jurious, will not be allowed on board. 

No stores will be permitted to be received in sealed boxes. The straw pack- 
ings are especially prohibited. The market stores will only be allowed to be 
received in baskets belonging to the ship, not in bags. 

Awnings will be housed daily at sunset, and no one will be allowed to sleep 
on deck exposed to the dew. The hot sun of the day and dews at night must 
be avoided by all. 

A. W. WEAVER, 
Captain Commanding. 



50 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

THE FEAST OF CORPUS CHRISTI. 

Wednesday, June 8, this festival of the Roman Catholic Church 
was celebrated with peculiar ceremony in Rio de Janeiro. The 
men-of-war dressed ship in honor of the day, in which we joined at 
the request of the Brazilian commodore, with the Brazilian flag 
at the main and the American flag at the other mast-heads. Cap- 
tain Weaver and a number of officers went ashore to witness the 
pageant there. The streets were packed with crowds of people in 
holiday attire. A regiment of Brazilian infantry was drawn up 
in line on the plaza in front of the imperial cathedral, and it was 
with considerable difficulty that one could wedge through the 
crowd to some convenient point of view. The emperor went 
to the cathedral about ten A.M. and participated in the religious 
services. About noon groups of monks and clergy appeared in 
the vicinity of the cathedral, preparing to form procession, which 
was frequently done at false alarms of the emperor's coming. At 
two P.M., however, four volleys from the regiment of infantry an- 
nounced the appearance of the emperor, when the bells commenced 
to ring, and salutes were fired from the forts and shipping. 

This remarkable procession consisted of several church societies 
bearing banners, silvered staves with flowers and crosses and 
candles in advance, then came a body of monks, about sixteen in 
all, bareheaded, and each bearing a candle, some of which were 
lighted, but it was very difficult to keep them burning in the 
open air. 

The monks were followed by a dozen or more priests in sacra- 
mental robes, and these by bishops and higher dignitaries of the 
church in their official dress. Then came the canopy and the host 
carried by the archbishop, elevated as at the celebration of mass 
in church. This canopy was held over the host by the emperor, 
his son-in-law, Comte d'Eu, and the four ministers of state, war, 
marine, and agriculture. This canopy was woven of gold and 
white silk, and supported on six ecclesiastically carved staves ten 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 51 

feet long, each one of the above distinguished men carrying a 
stave. 

The municipal officers followed the imperial party -with the host, 
and then came the regimental band, and an immense corps of 
buglers immediately heading the regiment of infantry. The em- 
peror, priests, and soldiers were all bareheaded, and walked through 
the streets at snail's pace, while the crowd surged in on all sides, 
and frequently blocked the procession, not the slightest effort being 
made to keep the streets clear. 

The emperor looked very well, and bore up under this ordeal 
very bravely. It took them about three hours to pass through 
about two miles of the principal streets in Rio. The imperial 
crown did not seem so attractive under these circumstances. The 
people in the streets were very respectful, and everybody un- 
covered as the procession moved by. 

This regiment of infantry is composed almost entirely of 
Brazilian Indians from the interior ; but they did not evince a 
very high state of discipline in their march by half-company front. 
The " Brooklyn's" battalion would certainly appear to very much 
better advantage, even with their rare opportunities for marching. 

One of the principal features of the procession seemed to be in 
the noise. The band would frequently be obliged to stop for wind, 
but the extraordinary corps of buglers were equal to the emergency, 
and kept up the racket incessantly, relieving each other from time 
to time. 

OBITUARY. 
HENRY JONES. 

Henry Jones, boatswain's mate, died on board this ship, of 
pneumonia, after an illness of five days, as stated elsewhere. He 
was born in Belfast, Ireland, September, 1823, and served in the 
navy for about eighteen years. Jones enlisted in the Fifty-second 
Regiment, New York State Volunteers, August 24, 1863, as a 
private, and was transferred to the navy April 28, 1864, from the 
camp near Strasburg, Virginia. He was discharged from the 



52 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

U. S. S. " Chickopee," Commander W. F. Spicer, as quarter- 
gunner, April 26, 1866, after which he served three years more 
in the navy, and was discharged from the U. S. S. " Pensacola," 
Captain G. H. Preble, September 30, 1869. He continued his 
naval career, and served out another enlistment, for which he 
received an honorable discharge December 19, 1872, as quarter- 
master from Captain Bancroft Gherrardi, U. S. R. S. " Independ- 
ence," Mare Island, California. He received another discharge 
July 14, 1875, as quartermaster of the " Independence." His 
next cruise was in the "Tennessee" in China from 1875 to 1878, 
during which he received a continuous-service certificate and a 
good-conduct badge. From 1878 to 1881 he served in the U. S. 
R. S. " Colorado," " New Hampshire," and " Standish," during 
which he received a second good-conduct badge. He enlisted for 
the last time September 22, 1881, at New York, and served until 
his death. He leaves no relations, but his monument of honor- 
able-discharge certificates and good-conduct badges have been for- 
warded to the Navy Department, where they will be preserved 
with the memorials of the rest of our country's faithful servants. 

MICHAEL CRAIG. 

Michael Craig, captain of the hold, died in the hospital at 
this port June 11. While Craig's service in the navy does not 
cover so many years of continuous service as Jones's, yet his first 
entry dates back to an earlier period, — the Mexican war, when 
the brilliant exploits of the American navy were still fresh in the 
minds of the people from the war of 1812. He served on the 
U. S. S. " Congress" from 1845 to 1849, and the engagements 
that ship took part in during that period entitled Craig to be a 
member of the New York Associated Mexican War Veterans, a 
silver medal of which association he had in his possession at his 
death, the reverse side of which contains the name of deceased, 
ship, and years he served. The face of this medal has inscribed 
upon it the distinguished names of Scott, Perry, and Taylor, and 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 53 

the battles of that "war. The deceased leaves nothing behind to 
show that he served in the navy again until 1877. September 
17 of that year he was honorably discharged from the " Rich- 
mond," Captain John J. Reed, as captain of the hold. He was in 
the service again as seaman on the " Saratoga," Commander R. D. 
Evans, and honorably discharged November 13, 1880. He was 
born in Donegal, Ireland, February 2, 1824, and consequently at 
the time of his death was in his fifty-ninth year. His last enlist- 
ment was December 20, 1880, on the " Colorado," at New York, 
and was serving out the remainder of his time on this ship. The 
deceased made Brooklyn his home. The only relatives Craig had 
known to be living are a sister and two nieces in Ireland. The 
remains were interred in San Juan de Baptiste Cemetery, Rio de 
Janeiro. 

On the 22d the " Brooklyn" was towed up to the inner harbor 
off Finney, Kemp & Co.'s dry-dock, for convenience in making 
the repairs preliminary to docking. The ammunition was removed 
to the Brazilian arsenal just before our departure, and since then 
the ship has been defenceless, and will remain so for some weeks 
to come. Before this, however, we had the pleasure of a visit 
from our Minister Plenipotentiary, Ex-Governor Thomas A. Os- 
borne, of Kansas, a typical American and one whom we all felt 
glad to honor ; when he left us we gave him a salute of seventeen 
guns. 

The workmen in charge of the contractor, Mr. Paul Taves, com- 
menced work on the ship's side on Friday, June 23. They tore 
down the bulkheads in the starboard steerage and the first six 
rooms on the starboard side of the wardroom. All the line offi- 
cers, excepting Lieutenants Calhoun and Hunker, were thus de- 
prived of quarters. Three of our energetic lieutenants then 
occupied the admiral's cabin in lieu of other tenant, the admiral 
having kindly offered it to them as a dormitory. The transoms 
in the cabin are all about the same size, and owing to the great 
range in the length of the lieutenants it was a difficult matter to 



54 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

appropriate the space to suit, but they always had a " bandy 
sebrees," which was some comfort. 

A great many of the discomforts were removed, however, by the 
kind consideration and gentlemanly courtesy of the more fortunate 
members of the mess, who then took in their homeless shipmates 
and allowed them the use of their state-rooms. This evinced such 
a happy state of affairs that all treated the inconveniences to which 
they had been subjected as a huge joke, and made the best of it 
in the most philosophical manner. 

The workmen surprised us very much by their peculiar hours. 
They commence work at seven and stop from nine to 9.30 for 
breakfast, after which they work steadily until four, when they go 
home to dinner. This gives eight and a half hours for a day's 
labor, and for a tropical clime the arrangement is much better 
than our system of mid-day dinners. They deserve a great deal 
of credit for their excellent work, which is far superior to what we 
had imagined it would be. The din of hammers was a great an- 
noyance, and all wished for the time when we should be in proper 
shape once more ; but this seemed to be very remote owing to the 
frequent number of holidays and feast-days, during which they 
won't work, although they would not object to working on Sun- 
days if we did not. 

The officers were invited to the athletic sports of the English 
Regatta Club on June 30. These sports consisted of running and 
walking races something on the style of the Olympian games. 
Their majesties the emperor and empress were present, and the 
races were very good. Cadet-Engineer W. S. Smith took part in 
one of the running races, but as he had had no opportunity to 
train he failed to get a prize. 

Monday, July 3, Admiral Crosby, Dr. Burbank, Chief Engineer 
Dungan, Paymaster Goldsborough, Lieutenant-Commander An- 
thony, and Lieutenant Marix went on a leave of absence to visit 
Petropolis. This a town of six thousand inhabitants. It is 
chiefly a German settlement, and is noted for being the summer 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 55 

residence of the imperial family. It is about sixty miles from 
Rio and has a comparatively cool climate, being three thousand 
feet above the sea. Four large mountain streams run into the 
town through beautiful canals in every street. Nearly all the for- 
eign ministers and diplomats make it their home. Our officers 
were entertained by our minister, Paymaster Wight (who has 
charge of the United States naval depot at Rio), the English 
representative, and Mr. Morton, the agent of the Lamport & Holt 
Steamship Company. There are a number of very handsome 
estates, beautiiully laid out with all that wealth and tropical lux- 
uriance can do. Such a place baffles description, and from all 
accounts must be a perfect fairy-land. Our party returned the 
latter part of the same week, and brought the most glowing ac- 
counts of their visit and of their hospitable reception by the peo- 
ple at Petropolis. Their enthusiastic description of the beautiful 
scenery, coupled with their praises of their hosts, make quite a 
refreshing feature in the cruise. 

On the Fourth of July we dressed ship with the American flag 
at each mast-head and the jack, while the Brazilian men-of-war, H. 
B. M. S. " Swiftsure," and nearly all the merchant vessels in the 
harbor followed our example. At noon the Brazilian fort at Bota 
Fogo and the " Swiftsure" fired a salute of twenty-one guns, which 
we were unable to return because we had no powder. This act 
was a very graceful one on the part of the English ironclad, since 
her commanding officer had been informed that we could not re- 
turn any salutes. Visits of courtesy were also exchanged between 
the officers of this ship and the " Swiftsure." 

On Saturday, July 8, the following officers went with Rear- 
Admiral Crosby to be presented to the emperor at the imperial 
palace of Sao Christavoa: Captain A. W. Weaver, Medical In- 
spector C. H. Burbank, Chief Engineer W. W. Dungan, Paymas- 
ter W. Goldsborough, Passed Assistant Surgeon H. M. Martin, 
Lieutenants U. Sebree, A. Marix, W. H. Beehler, G. A. Cal- 
houn, and J. J. Hunker, and Midshipmen Ripley and Snowden. 



56 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The party left the ship in full-dress uniform, with four marines in 
full-dress with the new white helmet. At the landing they took 
carriages to the United States Legation, where they met His Ex- 
cellency the United States Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy 
Extraordinary, Ex-Governor Thomas A. Osborne, with his secre- 
tary, H. J. White. They had to wait at the legation for some 
time, the hour for the reception having been changed to seven P.M. 
It was one hour's drive to the palace from the legation, and this 
gave the party an opportunity to judge of the size of Rio, as the 
route was from one end of the city to the other. The marines 
rode with the liveried drivers, and attracted a great deal of notice 
as the four carriages rapidly passed through the streets. The 
palace is a large white rectangular building with a central dome, 
and fronts the bay west of the city. The grounds in front did 
not appear to be kept as a park, though the road led through the 
two gates about five hundred feet apart. Several officers of the 
palace met the party at the entrance and ushered them into the 
diplomatic reception-room. This room is handsomely upholstered 
with red brocaded silk tapestry. A large life-size painting covers 
one wall, representing the present emperor when a young man in 
full court dress, which he wears on state occasions. The mantel 
ornaments were of beaten brass, massive and very handsome. 
The mirror candelabra and chandelier in the centre were in har- 
mony with these ornaments, the room being illuminated by candles 
instead of gas. The chairs and sofas were elaborately carved and 
ornamented with the imperial coat of arms, the only exceptional 
article being a small Japanese table in the centre. The room ad- 
joins the throne-room, and is where the foreign ministers usually 
wait before presenting their credentials to the emperor on his 
throne. 

The officers ranged themselves in line and waited for the em- 
peror, who came in at *7.15 p.m. dressed in the uniform of a mar- 
shal of the empire. The first lord chamberlain and two other 
court officers accompanied his majesty, but stood in the door- way 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 57 

during the reception. The emperor shook hands very cordially 
with Governor Osborne, and was then introduced to the admiral 
and the rest of the officers as his staff. The emperor expressed 
himself as delighted to see them, and regretted that he did not 
have the pleasure of holding the reception on the Fourth of July. 
He inquired about the ship, the health of the officers and crew, 
and incidentally mentioned the fact that he had once been enter- 
tained on board the " Brooklyn" when Admiral Godon had com- 
mand. He referred to his visit to the United States and praised 
the United States Naval Academy. He also inquired for Com- 
modore Simpson, and spoke eulogistically of Rear- Admiral John 
Rodgers, of whose death he had just heard. He held quite a 
long conversation with the admiral and Captain Weaver, while 
the rest of the officers simply stood by and looked on. The em- 
peror then turned to Governor Osborne, and shortly afterwards 
bowed and left the room. 

The first lord chamberlain then conducted them to the other 
wing of the palace, where they were presented to the empress, 
who stood in the centre of her reception-room and received by a 
general introduction. The first lady-in-waiting stood to the left 
and rear of her majesty during the reception. Her majesty spoke 
in French and asked a few general questions about the ship and 
the cruise. The officers then bowed and backed out of the room, 
returned to their carriages, and then rode back to the landing. 
The emperor afterwards said he was much pleased with this recep- 
tion, and highly commended the fine appearance of the officers, 
and was especially glad to have had the pleasure of seeing so 
many of them. 

Tuesday morning, July 11, preparations were made to dock the 
ship, but a thick fog set in and delayed this until noon. A tug 
towed the ship to the dock, and lines were then run out by which 
she was hauled in and centred on the blocks. The caisson was 
then placed in position and the ship docked in the usual manner, 
and finally secured at 3.15 p.m. 



58 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Lieutenant Beehler then commenced to rig the ship with the 
Weston system of electric lights. This consisted of ten lamps, 
one being suspended from the ends of each of the lower yard- 
arms, one at the end of the flying-jib-boom, one under the poop, 
one in the machine-shop by the generator, and one in the alley 
leading to the dock. It was dark, however, before the circuit 
could be tested, and, after one or two trials, the exhibition was 
postponed. 

The next evening, however, the effect of the light was exceed- 
ingly beautiful. Each lamp gave a light of two thousand candle- 
power, and made a brilliant illumination in the dock-yard and 
vicinity. About 8.30 p.m., while hoisting the lamp on the star- 
board cross-jack yard, the lamp-frame got loose and made contact 
with the fine wire in the feeding mechanism, which fused it and 
burnt a hole in the casing. The machine was stopped at once 
and the circuit examined, but the fault was not discovered until 
the next day. The machine was started again, however, but the 
break disabled the machine, and further efforts had to be post- 
poned until the next day. The admiral and Mrs. Crosby were 
present, and a great crowd of people thronged into the dock-yard. 
These people were very noisy, and their presence interfered so 
seriously with the discipline of the ship that the admiral directed 
the exhibition to be discontinued. The damages were repaired 
the next day, and at four a.m. the lights were started again and 
worked well. Midshipman Cahoon and the armorer, Charles 
Kelsey, rendered very valuable assistance with the electric light. 

"While in the dock the copper on the ship's bottom was found 
in a dreadful condition, being worn through in one hundred and 
forty-three sheets, while a few worms were also found in the 
planking. The copper was patched up ; but it was probable that 
the ship would have to be docked again in a year or so, unless she 
should be ordered home. 

The ship came out of the dock at noon July 15, and was towed 
to the former anchorage. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 59 

The health of the officers and crew has been exceptionally good, 
the sick list out of the whole ship's company of three hundred 
and fifty people only averaging five during July, 1882. 



CHAPTER V. 

First Organization of the " Brooklyn" Minstrels on the Fourth of July — The 
French Fete of the Storming of the Bastile — Gallant Conduct of Robert 
Allen and Edward Kenny in Rescuing their Shipmates — The United States 
Naval Depot at Rio de Janeiro — The Hospitality of the People at Rio — The 
Grand Minstrel Entertainment — Programme of the Performance — Full 
Description of the Entertainment. 

The Fourth of July was a disagreeable, rainy day, and it 
seemed as if there were not the slightest chance for any patriotic 
excitement to celebrate it. Visions of mass-meetings at a country 
picnic, the militia parade, stump-speeches, and extraordinary flow 
of beer aggravated our condition, and finally roused "all hands" 
to a final effort, which resulted in the permanent organization of 
the " Brooklyn" Minstrels. 

The apprentices started the ball by asking for boats for races, 
but the weather preventing made it necessary to try something 
more feasible. Lieutenant Beehler canvassed around among the 
boys to induce them to start a circus, a show, or something, but 
the boys all fought shy, and finally backed out altogether. He 
then appealed to the men, and with the assistance of Cadet- 
Engineer Beach organized an impromptu entertainment, which 
proved to be a great success. The following is the programme, 
neatly printed copies of which were distributed around among the 
ship's company just before the performance : 



60 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Overture By the Orchestra 

Song, " Little Sister's Gone to Sleep" . . John Looby and Company 

Jig, " Footprints in the Sand" J. McCann 

Character Song, " The Don of the Club" .... Robert Allen 

Sketch, OBEYING ORDERS. 

General Ramrod J. Murphy 

Private Mulcahy R. Allen 

Sarah Bernheart J. Looby 

Clog Dance J. McCann 

Song, " The Boy from Munster" J. Kenny 

Sketch, THE COAL-HEAVERS' REVENGE. 

Doctor William Jarrard 

Pat Moriarity, Coal-Heaver John McCabe 

Mike McGinniss, Second Coal-Heaver J. Looby 



Song, " Hungry Army' 



J. Looby, R. Allen 



A stage was laid out on the berth-deck, just forward of the 
foremast and abaft the steam capstan. Candles with reflectors 
were arranged along the deck and served very well for foot- 
lights, while a nicely-painted scene was hung up as a background 
for the performance. The entire ship's company with all the offi- 
cers on board gathered on the berth-deck, the men sitting on cap- 
stan-bars and deck-buckets, while the officers had their chairs and 
camp-stools in the rear. 

Promptly at eight p.m. the band struck up the march from 
" Boccaccio," and the hush of expectation went round through the 
audience. John Looby then came out and sang " Little Sister's 
Gone to Sleep," the chorus being behind the scenes, which made 
the piece very effective. 

McCann's dancing was very fine. His graceful tread realized 
in a striking sense the beauty of a true Irish jig and brought out 
the heartiest encores. McCann deserves the greatest credit not 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 61 

only for the real merit of his performance, but for his hearty co- 
operation in getting up the entertainment, while others were 
rather indifferent. 

Robert Allen in his character song of " The Don of the Club" 
elicited loud applause and was obliged to repeat his song. Allen 
has a fair voice, but excels in his acting. He wore a long ulster 
and dandy cap, and made a very presentable swell. 

The sketch "Obeying Orders" was very fairly presented, and 
had there been time the piece could have been polished up some- 
what, and what was simply pleasing would have been exceedingly 
good. The same criticism applies to the other sketch, " The 
Coal-Heavers' Revenge." The Doctor, William Jarrard, sustained 
his part admirably, and McCabe interpreted the Irish coal-heaver 
to perfection. The chief thing lacking being appropriate dresses 
and stage appointments, which could not be otherwise for a first 
performance gotten up at three hours' notice. 

J. Kenny did not appear on time for his song ; he was on post 
as a sentry and, unfortunately, had a tardy relief. A. B. Morton 
came to the rescue, and gave a capital substitute in a character 
song, " I'm so Awfully Clevah." The song was very good, a 
great deal being improvised for the occasion. A mere copy of 
the words would fail to convey any idea of the character. He 
was vociferously encored, and amused the audience immensely at 
his cool self-possession and perfect ease with which he enacted the 
part of the heavy swell. 

Looby and Allen sang the song of the " Hungry Army" fairly, 
but it lacked rehearsal, though it pleased the audience. It would 
be difficult to imagine a better-satisfied audience than this which 
cheered the performers. They seemed spell-bound, and when the 
programme was exhausted, about 9.15 p.m., they sat like the boy 
in " Oliver Twist" and wanted more. The band then struck up 
" Home, Sweet Home," and broke the spell by reminding all hands 
that it was late and high time to " pipe down hammocks." Great 
credit is due to the efficient service of the sheriff, — John Taylor, 

5 



62 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

— who with his deputies preserved perfect order and added a great 
deal to the enjoyment of the evening. 

LA FETE NATIONAL. 

The 14th of July is the national fete day of the French re- 
public, and commemorates the taking of the Bastille. The 
French residents of Rio de Janeiro, numbering about three thou- 
sand, gave the second celebration of " La F§te National" at the 
saloon and garden of the Guarda Belha on the evening of the 14th 
instant. The entrance was beautifully illuminated, the whole face 
of the building being covered with gas-jets ; over the entrance was 
erected an illuminated arch bearing the inscription in brilliant 
gas-jets " Republique Franchise, 1789-14 Juillet, 1882." The 
garden presented a fantastic appearance, the trees, shrubbery, 
walks, etc., being decorated with thousands of various-colored 
lights, Chinese lanterns, etc. The saloon was artistically deco- 
rated with the French colors, and over the end of the stage was 
placed a large bust of the Republic draped with the tricolor. 
Between three and four thousand persons attended. The captain 
and officers of this vessel were invited, and every preparation was 
made to insure them having an enjoyable evening. Lieutenants 
Marix, Calhoun, and Hunker, Chaplain Royce, Assistant En- 
gineer Leonard, Cadet-Engineers Smith and Beach, and Midship- 
man Ripley attended in uniform, and were most hospitably enter- 
tained by the officers and committees of the fete. The fete 
opened with a concert in the saloon, which lasted from 8.30 to 11. 
The " Marseillaise," sang by Mme. Rose Meryss, two songs by Mme. 
Alina Alhaiza, two poetical recitations by M. M. P. Alhaiza, and 
a selection called " Le Chant du Depart" by an orchestra composed 
of young boys, were parts of the programme most enthusiastically 
applauded. After the concert about a thousand persons assembled 
in a large saloon, in the centre of which was a platform for the 
distinguished guests, among whom were the French minister and 
consul-general, members of the diplomatic corps, officers of this 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 63 

vessel, etc. Tables ran the whole length of the room, which 
were bountifully supplied with champagne, etc. ; toasts were 
then proposed and responded to until midnight, the French minis- 
ter responding to " The President of the Republic" and " His 
Majesty the Emperor," the consul to " France," and Lieuteuant 
Calhoun to " Our Sister Republic, the United States of North 
America." The ball was opened shortly after midnight and was 
prolonged until daybreak. With excellent music, many handsome 
women and beautiful toilets, etc., all who attended can con- 
gratulate the Societe Francaise upon having had a most successful 
celebration of " La Fete National." 

A subscription paper for the " Brooklyn" Minstrels was handed 
around, and a committee, consisting of Lieutenant Beehler, Second 
Lieutenant Jackson, and Cadet-Engineer Beach, was authorized to 
expend the amount subscribed for stage properties, etc. 

GALLANT CONDUCT. 

On the morning of the 2d of June Ossian Carlson, seaman, in an 
effort to get from the poop into the gig fell overboard. A life-buoy 
was let go, a life-preserver thrown overboard, and a boat called 
away, but all were of no service owing to the aid rendered by 
Robert Allen, seaman, who jumped overboard and assisted Carlson 
in getting hold of a rope's end thrown over the side and then to 
the Jacob's ladder over the stern. The fact that Carlson was hurt 
in the fall, was very much frightened and scarcely able to swim, 
made the assistance rendered very timely, and Allen's gallantry 
deserves special recognition. 

"We take special pleasure in recording a similar act of gallantry 
by Edwin Kenney, first-class fireman, on July 12. It appears 
that Guenaro Persico, first-class musician, while walking out on 
the dock at 8.30 p.m. stepped overboard, and would have been 
drowned but for the timely rescue by Edwin Kenney. The night 
was dark, and the smooth granite sea-wall was such that Persico 
had but little chance of being saved, but Kenney jumped over- 



64 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

board and held him up until a boat came to their assistance. Per- 
sico cannot swim, and he owes his life to the gallant conduct of 
his brave shipmate. 

CHANGES IN THE SQUADRON. 

Captain L. E. Fagan, U.S.M.C., arrived here on the 28th of 
June in the new steamer " Queen of the Pacific," of the Oregon 
Steamship Company, which was lately built at Philadelphia and 
stopped here on her way to the Pacific. Captain Pagan relieved 
Captain E. P. Meeker from the command of the marine guard and 
as fleet marine officer South Atlantic Station. Captain Meeker 
was then detached, and sailed July 5 in the Lamport & Holt 
steamer " Archimedes" for New York. The wardroom officers 
gave Captain Meeker a farewell dinner before he left, and many 
regrets were expressed at his departure. 

Five weeks after the ship was towed out of the dry-dock to the 
anchorage in the inner harbor, the work of repairing the ship 
progressed rapidly, and was completed considerably within the 
time allowed by the contract with Mr. Taves. The incessant 
pounding of the calkers for about two weeks made life a burden 
from seven A.M. until four P.M., and the final departure of this 
gang was a great relief. Calkers are not welcome, and we can 
only add oa-kum no more. 

The routine drills were resumed to a certain extent after leaving 
the dock, and the ship's company settled down to their regular duties. 

Tuesday, August 1, boards of officers visited the United States 
naval storehouse to survey articles in the various departments. 
This storehouse was simply a place to destroy government prop- 
erty. A great many stores were found worthless, and what would 
pass inspection would not be received on board for fear that they 
might contain germs of yellow fever. A number of requisitions 
for stores were approved and furnished from the storehouse, but 
the doctor got hold of them, and upon his recommendation these 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 65 

stores were returned. The prospect of unlimited supply of old 
canvas, so handy for swabs, tarpaulins, and a thousand things on 
board ship, was very pleasing, but Yellow Jack is a bad shipmate, 
and no precaution was neglected to keep him out. 

The storehouse is a very fine, suitable building, and was built 
by Mr. Lage for the Navy Department, whose agent leased it from 
him about a year ago for the term of five years. This lease was 
about the only reason advanced for the continuance of the naval 
depot at this place. The officers who made the surveys found the 
stores going to ruin very rapidly owing to age and climatic influ- 
ences, and recommended to sell the whole business and sublet the 
storehouse to some party who might use it to advantage. 

The search for some old powder was one of the strangest fea- 
tures of this survey. No one knew where it was and how long it 
had been here. The party made four trips after it, and finally 
found it by taking a Brazilian ordnance employe for a pilot, who 
conducted the board to a magazine clear up to the head of the 
bay, where it had been carefully stored, free of cost, by the Bra- 
zilian government since 1874. This powder was sent to the sta- 
tion in 1872, when Rear-Admiral W. R. Taylor had command, 
and was first stored in the magazine at Santa Cruz. Some of the 
buildings there were struck by lightning during a thunder-storm, 
which occasioned its subsequent removal to the storehouse on the 
Isla do Gobernado. 

Thursday, August 10, we got under way, and were towed to 
the man-of-war anchorage in the outer harbor. A requisition for 
coal had been approved, and some was received on board from the 
naval depot. The chief engineer, however, objected to it as being 
inferior, and finally the doctor stepped in and called it dangerous. 
This put a stop to further attempts at coaling, and left us free 
scope to go ahead and get the ship ready for inspection. 

The officers of the ship were entertained very nicely by a num- 
ber of people on shore. They attended the Casino ball on the 
24th of July, a grand wedding-party at Mr. McKimmel's on 



66 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

August 3, the ball at the club Regatta de Guarnabarense on the 
12th inst., and were entertained twice by Mr. F. Sauwen, the 
Belgian consul-general, at his charming country-seat at Paradise. 
This place is in a valley about an hour's journey from Rio, over 
the ferry to Nitheroy. The park is magnificently laid out, every 
variety of tropical tree and plant being represented, the celebrated 
pond-lily Victoria Regia being among the most curious. Mr. 
Sauwen took special pains to explain the peculiarities of the 
various trees, and gave the officers a royal treat. It would 
be difficult to convey any adequate idea of the beauty of the 
place so artistically laid out. His house is a wonder for the coun- 
try, being a perfect gem, with every modern convenience com- 
bined with the beauty of an ancient Moorish dwelling. Those 
who availed themselves of his hospitality can never forget the 
delightful time spent at his home so appropriately called " Para- 
dise." 

THE "BROOKLYN" MINSTRELS. 

The organization of the " Brooklyn" Minstrels proceeded with- 
out interruption after the impromptu entertainment on the Fourth 
of July. Mr. Beach was indefatigable in his efforts to train the 
men who came forward to participate, and their frequent rehearsals 
in the fire-room resulted in giving us a delightful entertainment 
on the evening of the 28th of July. The subscription to the 
fund was generally responded to by all, and a full report of the 
finance committee was presented. 

The stage was rigged up on the quarter-deck, just abaft the 
mainmast, with its after-end resting on the forward part of the 
engine-room hatch, just leaving narrow gangways on each side. 
The stage was screened in on three sides by sails hung from a 
superstructure erected by the carpenter's gang, while a red baize 
drop-curtain, fitted with brails, closed in the front. All the guns 
on the quarter-deck were transported forward, and the awnings 
and sides were tastefully decorated with flags and bunting, the 
combined effect being very handsome. The stage was fitted with 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 67 

six wings, two of which formed a part of the front, while the 
other two, on each side, formed parts of the drop-scenes, repre- 
senting a forest and a city street, respectively. This arrangement 
left passage-ways on the stage on both sides for the entrances and 
exits, both of which led to the green-room, formed by sails screen- 
ing in the space around the mainmast and forward on the port 
side of the smoke-stack. 

The ship's company occupied the port side of the quarter-deck 
and the hammock- nettings, the latter serving as peanut-galleries, 
but we missed the enterprising merchant with his peanuts, opera- 
books, and photographs, notwithstanding the demands for the pic- 
ture of " Dot nice leetle Irish gals." The officers sent out about 
two hundred and fifty invitations to the English-speaking com- 
munity of Rio Janeiro, including a few to some Brazilians, nearly 
all of whom came, and were assigned to seats on the starboard side 
of the quarter-deck and poop. 

The following distinguished guests occupied the reserved seats 
on the forward part of the poop : Rear- Admiral and Mrs. Crosby, 
the United States minister, Thomas A. Osborne, and family, the 
British minister, Thomas Corbin, the British consul-general, A. 
Ricketts, and wife, the Russian charge d'affaires, Mr. C. N. Lis- 
chine, and wife, the Italian charge d'affaires, Count Albert de For- 
esta, Count and Countess de Estrela, Mr. and Mrs. Peries, and a 
number of Brazilian officers in uniform, with a delegation from 
the Argentine corvette " Parana." A number of charming young 
ladies came with Mr. and Mrs. Hancock, Mr. Bailee, and others, 
who occupied seats on the quarter-deck with personal friends of 
the officers. Mr. Paul Taves, Mr. C. P. Mackie, and Mr. Lage 
kindly offered their steam-barges, which, with our steam-launch, 
were used to convey the guests to and from the ship. A com- 
mittee of officers was appointed to receive the guests at the land- 
ing on shore, and also at the gangway on board ship. 

The guests arrived at 7.15 p.m., and as soon as the admiral and 
his party were seated the curtain rose at the signal from an elec- 



68 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

trie bell, and disclosed the entire troupe of nine negroes with six 
of the ship's band in the rear. The appearance of the company 
produced a favorable impression, and as they took their seats the 
ease and sang-froid with which " tambo" enacted his part and 
created his little diversion heralded the perfect success of the en- 
tertainment. The following programme was carried out in every 
particular. Copies were printed on fine note-paper at the Eagle 
office and distributed among the audience before the curtain rose : 

PART I. 

Overture Instrumental 

Still I Love Thee . . . A. B. Morton 

Peter Simple E. Allen 

Blue-Eyed Nellie J. Looby 

Medley . . . J. J. McCabe 

PART II. 
Clog Dance G. Ryan 

Sebool-boy's Recitation, 
Bingen on the Rhine . . . . . . . J. J. McCabe 

Sarah Walker J. W. Howourth 

THE TWO SUBJECTS. 

Dr. Toro Splints William Jarrard 

Patrick Duffy .J. Looby 

Hans van Kinterlebth J. J. McCabe 

Bridget O'Lafferty R. Allen 

Old Grandfather Ben A. B. Morton 

Dear Old Wife and I Morton and Howourth 

Song and Dance G. Ryan 

UNCLE EPH'S DREAM. 

Uncle Eph . . J. J. McCabe 

Master George William Jarrard 

Aunt Chloe George Miller 

Young Eph William La Forge 

Plantation hands, etc. 

The company occupied the entire front of the stage and sat in 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 69 

a semicircle. The middle-man wore a plain evening dress, while 
Bones and Tambo were rigged up gorgeously with bright " Dolly 
Varden" waistcoats (swallow-tails), extravagant neck-ties and col- 
lars, with immense buttonhole-bouquets. The rest of the troupe 
wore plain white shirts, and presented a neat and graceful picture. 
The men were very thoroughly blackened, and the wigs effected 
such a perfect disguise that some were not recognized by their own 
shipmates during the whole performance. The play opened with 
a rollicking selection by the band, with bones, tambourine, and 
guitar of the troupe. This selection was so appropriate to the 
character of the entertainment that the entire company went in 
with a free and easy manner, which insured the success of the 
whole evening. The jests exchanged between Bones and Tambo 
and the wise middle-man took well and served to introduce the 
several selections admirably. This was particularly true of the 
selection by B. Allen of " Peter Simple." Tambo asked Bones 
how Captain Weaver could get fresh eggs for breakfast when the 
ship was crossing the line. Bones could not tell, and the middle- 
man had to give it up. Tambo replied that he only had to bring 
the ship by the wind and have her " lay to." The imitations 
that followed of the cackling hen by Allen were exceedingly good, 
and kept the audience in roars of laughter and brought out the 
heartiest encores, which necessitated the repetition of the song. 

Morton sang " Still I Love Thee" very well, this selection being 
the best musical effort of the troupe. The chorus did best in 
Looby's sentimental song " Blue-Eyed Nellie," which was very 
pretty, and served as a charming interlude between the absurdities 
of Tambo and Bones. In the most pathetic part of this song 
two of the lanterns fell down by the band, and the absurd aston- 
ishment of Tambo in looking like a perfect idiot to see what was 
up proved him to be an adept as an end-man. 

The best hit was made in the comparison of an Irishman to a 
lobster. Bones found a resemblance in that both wore a green 
coat, but Tambo asked why an Irishman ain't like a lobster, and 



70 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

when neither Bones nor Mr. Jarrard could guess, he brought down 
the house by explaining that if you boiled a lobster his coat 
would turn red, but that you might bile an Irishman until he was 
bald-headed and he never would wear a red coat. The ship's 
company enjoyed the joke about preaching best of all. Tambo 
asked what a preacher ought to preach about. Mr. Jarrard said 
he thought a preacher should preach about integrity, virtue, 
sobriety, etc. Bones thought he should preach about fifteen min- 
utes, but the roar that followed Tambo when he said a preacher 
should preach about liberty was just immense. Some of the jokes 
were lost to those in the rear seats because they did not speak 
loud enough, and the same criticism applies to some of the songs. 
A tableau was arranged as a finale to the first part, with the God- 
dess of Liberty and the Army and Navy group. The group was 
very good in itself. Charles P. Gibbons looked well as " Goddess 
of Liberty," and H. E. Collyer as an American seaman, while 
Joseph M. Kenney made a very fair representative for the army. 

Ryan's clog-dancing astonished the Brazilians, and many after- 
wards expressed their wonder how he could keep his feet going so 
constantly. He certainly did admirably, especially in the first 
dance, agreeably surprising every one who had supposed McCann 
indispensable to the troupe. 

The school-boy's recitation of " Bingen on the Rhine" was one 
of the very best imitations, and McCabe's real talent flashed 
upon the audience like a new discovery, which obliged him to 
give two other imitations, when he still further astonished the 
audience by his imitation of the school-girl's poetical recitation, 
the tone of voice, manner, and every detail, except his personal 
appearance, being a perfect representation of the smart girl at 
school. 

Howourth, as " Sarah Walker," was exceedingly good. He 
looked so much like a little tottering old woman that he was not 
recognized by any except those in the secret. He thoroughly 
identified himself with the character, and was vociferously encored. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 71 

The sketch of the " Two Subjects" was excellent. McCabe, 
Allen, and Looby formed a trio which would do credit to the pro- 
fession, the love scenes between Biddy and her two lovers being 
very entertaining. The appreciation of the audience was so mani- 
fest that the trio fairly revelled in their parts, and the dialogue 
was interspersed with witticisms which no end of rehearsals 
could effect. 

Morton, as " Grandfather Ben," and with Howourth in the 
duet, was above criticism. He would form a troupe in himself, 
and he kept up the enthusiasm of the audience until the last 
piece, " Uncle Eph's Dream." This last piece was not so favor- 
ably received as the others. The other parts of the programme 
were so extraordinarily good that this sketch is the only one on 
which the critic could rest, while the character of the sketch itself 
was not understood by the audience generally. 

The curtain fell on the last scene at 9.45 P.M., when the guests 
were conducted down into the wardroom for refreshments. The 
stage and its appurtenances were dismantled in about five minutes. 
Both sides of the quarter-deck were cleared, and the officers gave 
a hop as a sequel to the minstrels. This proved very pleasant, 
and our guests went home apparently delighted with their evening 
on board the " Brooklyn." We were favored with a bright moon- 
light night, and everything passed off pleasantly for all. 



72 THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 



CHAPTER VI. 

The Admiral's Ball — The Reception of the Princess Imperial and Comte d'Eu 
— The Special Performance by the Celebrated "Brooklyn" Minstrels — Subse- 
quent Arrival of the Emperor Dom Pedro II. — The Pazenda Santa Anna — 
Description of a Brazilian Coffee Plantation — Detachment of Officers — De- 
parture from Rio — The Inspection of the Ship by Admiral Crosby — The 
Arrival of the " Galena" — The Cruise of the " Marion" and her Departure for 
Home. 

THE ADMIRAL'S BALL. 

The Emperor Dom Pedro II., the princess imperial with her 
husband, Comte d'Eu, and the aristocratic society of Rio, were 
magnificently entertained by Rear-Admiral and Mrs. Pierce 
Crosby on board this ship on the 26th of August. This enter- 
tainment afforded the admiral an opportunity to show his appreci- 
ation of the kind hospitality shown him and our officers by the 
good people of Rio, while the whole character of the reception 
expressed better than words can convey the sympathy and cor- 
diality existing between the United States and Brazil. 

The admiral personally invited the emperor to visit the 
" Brooklyn" whenever it might suit his majesty's pleasure, which 
he accepted by a letter stating that he and their imperial high- 
nesses would visit the ship on Saturday, August 26, and that he 
would come between ten and eleven p.m., while their highnesses 
would come at an earlier hour. On a subsequent visit of the 
admiral to the princess the latter expressed a wish to see the 
" Brooklyn" Minstrels, the success of which had reached her 
ears. 

The admiral invited Captain Weaver and the officers of the ship 
to assist him and Mrs. Crosby in the entertainment of the distin- 
guished guests, and by their united efforts under his direction the 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 73 

whole affair was eminently successful and was the event of the 
season in Rio. 

The ship was beautifully decorated, and presented an appear- 
ance never to be forgotten by those who attended. The stage oc- 
cupied the same place as in the last minstrels, and was appropri- 
ately decorated with the Brazilian and American flags entwined 
over the top and gracefully falling in folds on both sides of the 
drop-curtain. The awnings were carried aloft about eight feet 
and were lined with national flags, disposed so that the Brazilian 
and American flags should be in juxtaposition with those of the 
other nations represented, notably the English, French, Italian, 
and Argentine, though from the manner in which these and all 
national flags were displayed, none had any undue prominence over 
the other, except that the Brazilian flag was most conspicuously 
placed with our own. 

The guns were all transported forward off the quarter-deck, 
which was waxed and illuminated with Chinese lanterns, chande- 
liers, and candelabra arranged on stands, etc. One immense chan- 
delier, designed by the chief engineer, was hung from below the 
centre of the quarter-deck awning. It carried about one hundred 
candles, and was so artistically decorated with bunting as to elicit 
general admiration. The poop-ladders were removed, and two 
broad staircases with an easy incline were substituted in their 
place. These were made on board ship, and were so tastefully 
decorated with bunting, canvas, narrow long pennants, and com- 
bined with pots of tropical plants on the sides, that they looked 
very imposing. The poop was decorated in the same style, while 
the hatches and skylights were there built up with candelabra ar- 
ranged around them so as to shed a beautiful light around and 
through the leaves of a great number of tropical plants. The 
sides were closed in with canvas curtains decorated with flags, and 
completed a magnificent scene when the distinguished guests 
arrived, representing the beauty and wealth of the metropolis of 
South America. 



74 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Three steam-barges, kindly loaned by Messrs. Taves, Lage, and 
Mackie, were used to convey the guests to the ship. Chaplain 
Koyce and Midshipman Snowden received the guests as they 
arrived at the landing and assigned them to the boats, all being 
invited so that they would be on board before the imperial party, 
in compliance with court etiquette. The night was dark, but the 
" Brooklyn" and the course of the boats between the ship and 
landing were beautifully illuminated by two revolving electric 
lights of twelve thousand candle-power each, run by a Siemens 
dynamo-electric machine on board the Brazilian monitor " Soli- 
moes." This illumination was continued all night, and clearly out- 
lined the ship and her rigging. 

The guests were received by a committee of officers, consisting 
of Captain Weaver, Paymaster Goldsborough, Lieutenants Sebree, 
Calhoun, and Hunker, and Midshipman Ripley, who conducted 
them to the cloak-room, and afterwards escorted them to the poop- 
deck, where they were received by the Admiral and Mrs. Crosby, 
assisted by the United States Minister Osborne and wife and Mrs. 
Ricketts, the wife of the British consul-general. Admiral Baron 
Grivel, commanding the French naval forces, was received at the 
gangway by Admiral Crosby, and the commanding officers of the 
Brazilian, English, French, Italian, and Argentine men-of-war by 
Captain Weaver in accordance with the usual naval etiquette. 

The guests remained on the poop until after the arrival of the 
princess, who came at 9.15 in the imperial barge, pulling twenty- 
four oars, from the navy-yard, a stream of electric light constantly 
illuminating her course. When the barge hove in sight the bugle 
sounded the assembly, the marine guard formed in line on the 
port side of the quarter-deck and stood at attention. The officers 
of this ship and the Brazilian officers formed line on the starboard 
side of the deck, while Mrs. Crosby, Mrs. Osborne, Mrs. Ricketts, 
the Countess Estrela, and Baroness Tosti (the two latter being the 
most intimate friends of the princess) stood aft on the quarter- 
deck to receive the distinguished party. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 75 

Admiral Crosby, Baron Grivel, Captain Weaver, and Lieu- 
tenant Marix received the imperial party at the gangway and con- 
ducted them to the cabin, while the band played the Brazilian 
national air. The princess took Admiral Crosby's arm and bowed 
to the officers as she passed along. After being received by the 
ladies the party went into the admiral's cabin, reserved as a 
dressing-room for their use. 

In the mean time about two hundred chairs were, as if by 
magic, ranged on the quarter-deck in front of the stage, and the 
guests came down from the poop and were seated to see the min- 
strel performance. The imperial party occupied the seats on the 
poop with the members of the cabinet, diplomatic corps, and their 
families, and Admiral and Mrs. Crosby. As soon as the princess 
was seated the curtain rose and disclosed the minstrel troupe in 
their places on the stage. The stage and general appearance of 
the company was similar to that of the previous entertainment, 
though the end-men were changed, James Murphy taking Mc- 
Cabe's place as Bones, and William Jarrard acted as Tambo instead 
of Allen. The following programme was carried out, and served 
very well to give an idea of what the first regular minstrel per- 
formance was : 

PART I. 

Overture Instrumental 

Dinah's Serenade A. B. Morton 

Hiyah Cumshaw J. Murphy- 
Golden Slippers William Jarrard 

PART II. 

School -boy's Composition J. McCabe 

Awfully Clevah A. B. Morton 

Irish Pat J. Looby 

St. Patrick's Day Parade Company 

The company, however, did not do nearly so well as before. 
Some of their best songs had to be omitted because they were 
only allowed about twenty-five minutes to act, in order that the 



76 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

stage might be removed before the arrival of his majesty the em- 
peror. About half of the crew came aft to see the show and stood 
up on the quarter-deck ; but their respect for the imperial party 
detracted so much from the interest in the exhibition, that the per- 
formance, though very good, lacked spirit, and the guests failed to 
see the enthusiasm of Jack, which was one of the best features of 
the first entertainment. 

The guests quietly left their seats on the quarter-deck, as if 
from force of habit at the end of a theatrical exhibition, and re- 
paired to the poop, while the crew cleared away the chairs and 
proceeded to dismantle the stage, which, when down, left a magnifi- 
cent ball-room instead of a theatre. In the mean time the bugle 
announced the emperor, the officers ranged in line as before, while 
the marines stood on the port side of the deck at attention. The 
appearance of the guard in full-dress coats, white trousers, and 
white helmets, under the command of Captain Fagan, attracted 
general admiration and reflected great credit on the ship. 

His majesty, accompanied by Count d'Igassue, the first cham- 
berlain, and a staff of distinguished officers, arrived in the imperial 
barge at 10.15 P.M., and was received by Rear- Admiral Crosby 
and Admiral Baron Grivel, whom Admiral Crosby had specially 
invited to assist him in receiving his majesty, and conducted aft 
through the line of officers as at the previous reception of his 
daughter. The emperor went directly aft to where the princess 
and Comte d'Eu were seated, both of whom rose and kissed his 
hand, after which a number of the distinguished guests came 
forward and paid their respects. 

During this time the band of the French flag-ship played a 
march, and then alternated with our band during the rest of the 
evening. The ball then opened with a quadrille, at the head being 
the princess with Admiral Crosby for her partner, and Councillor 
Doria with Mrs. Osborne as vis-d-vis, then Comte d*Eu and Mrs. 
Crosby, with the Minister of Foreign Affairs and the Countess 
Macedon as their vis-d-vis. The dancing then became general, 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 77 

and the handsome toilets of the distinguished guests made a scene 
of surpassing beauty. 

Refreshments were served in the wardroom from this time on, 
the novel features being a delicious punch prepared by Dr. Bur- 
bank and a large variety of American cakes, which, strange to say, 
are not to be had in Rio. Ices and the usual variety of substan- 
tial also abounded, prepared under the auspices of Lieutenant 
Beehler. 

The emperor and their imperial highnesses made themselves at 
home, and seemed to have enjoyed the entertainment very much. 
At 1.30 A.M. they went into the admiral's cabin, where a special 
collation had been prepared for them, the following being also 
present at this repast : Governor and Mrs. Osborne, Count d'lgas- 
sue, the chamberlain and lady-in-waiting of the princess, the Prime 
Minister and Ministers of Foreign Affairs, Marine, and Interior, 
Admiral Baron Grivel, Admiral and Mrs. Crosby. The dancing- 
was kept up with great spirit during the entire night, though the 
guests began to leave shortly after the emperor went into the 
cabin. 

The imperial party left the ship at 2.45 A.M., the officers form- 
ing line and the guard at attention as upon their arrival. As soon 
as the barge left we fired a salute of twenty-one rockets, and kept 
the ship illuminated with signals and blue-lights iintil she was well 
on her way home, while the electric light in charge of Captain 
Alencar lit up her course as before. The rest of the guests de- 
parted in the course of an hour, all delighted with the elegant and 
novel entertainment. 

The following is a list of some of the principal guests not pre- 
viously mentioned : Ex-President Avellaneda of the Argentine 
Republic, Duke del Drago, grand-nephew of the emperor, the 
ministers of France, Russia, Italy, Argentine Republic, Uruguay, 
and Sweden, with their families, Councillors and Madames de 
Pintos and Dantos, Senator Octaviano, Viscount and Viscountess 
Barbacena, Baron and Baroness de Mello, Admiral de la Marc 

6 



78 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

and wife, Admiral Silvera de Motta and wife, Viscount and Vis- 
countess de Garcia, Messrs. Hancox, Levison Glower, and F. 
Sauwen, with their wives, Baron and Baroness de Rio Bonito, and 
Count Floresta, besides many others of the most distinguished and 
aristocratic families of Rio. 

Every one on board the " Brooklyn" fully appreciated the great 
honor which his majesty and their imperial highnesses conferred 
by their visit to the " Brooklyn," a compliment not only to our 
ship and the naval service, but to the whole country. 

About daylight next morning the admiral's orderly, Edward 
Hurley, found a magnificent brooch containing about forty dia- 
monds set in with rubies, which he immediately reported to the 
officer of the deck. Subsequently the brooch was found to be the 
property of one of the guests, who sent Hurley a handsome re- 
ward of money in a polite note through the Countess Estrela. 

THE PAZENDA SANTA ANNA. 

On August 10 Rear-Admiral and Mrs. Crosby, accompanied by 
Mr. Jarbas Octaviano, Lieutenants Marix and Hunker, and Dr. 
Steele, left Rio to accept an invitation from the Baron de Rio 
Bonito to visit his coffee plantation. A ride of about seventy 
miles on the Bom Pedro II. Railroad through the most beautiful 
mountain scenery brought the party to Barra do Pirahy, and a 
half-hour's drive by carriage landed them safely at the baron's 
residence on the plantation. It was with peculiar satisfaction they 
found themselves in cars built in the United States, drawn by 
locomotives from Philadelphia, and the whole under control of an 
air-brake manufactured in Pennsylvania. During their absence 
they were afforded every opportunity to see coffee in all its stages 
from the tree to the cup, and have been good enough to furnish us 
with the following : 

Coffee takes its name from a district in Ethiopia, Africa, called 
Kaffa, where the tree grows wild. The coffee-plant is an ever- 
green and the foliage is always fresh. The harvests are two annu- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 79 

ally. It requires warm situations, and does not thrive where the 
temperature is below fifty-five degrees, or at elevations of more 
than six thousand feet above the level of the sea. The principal 
coffee-producing countries are Brazil, Java, Ceylon, Sumatra, 
India, Arabia, the West Indies, Venezuela, and some of the 
Pacific islands. Of all produced Brazil furnishes more than half, 
the larger part of this being sent to the United States. 

The fazenda or plantation visited by the party is called Santa 
Anna, and is very large, covering an area of twelve square miles. 
It was found necessary to facilitate the work to connect the head- 
quarters where the negro slaves reside by telephone line six miles 
in length. It was over this line the party heard distinctly a negro 
orchestra. This fazenda is said to be one of the most complete in 
Brazil, being furnished with the most approved machinery, of 
which there is considerable, — blacksmith- and carpenter-shops, a 
good hospital, with medical attendance for the four hundred slaves 
who reside there, a fine orchard and garden, and many substantial 
and well-kept buildings. In addition to the culture of coffee a 
great deal of labor is expended in raising sugar-cane, corn, beans, 
rice, mandioca, oranges, bananas, and vegetables. Everything 
raised, excepting coffee, is for consumption on the plantation. A 
generous mountain stream furnishes the power, through a huge 
overshot-wheel, which runs the machinery for grinding corn and 
mandioca, pressing the juice from the cane, etc. ; excellent sugar 
and rum are also made. 

The coffee-trees on this fazenda number one million four hun- 
dred thousand, are planted on the hill-side, as it is essential when 
they thrive that the soil does not retain water. The trees are 
kept from five to eight feet in height, both for convenience in 
gathering and to increase their productiveness. The trunk is cov- 
ered with a grayish bark, and its white blossoms grow in clusters 
around the branches. It is propagated by planting the seeds in 
nurseries, and, after a year, transplanting on the plantation in 
rows, when they present somewhat the appearance of a vineyard 



80 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

in their regularity. The full producing power is not reached until 
the fifth year, and they frequently reach thirty years of age, when 
generally the soil will be found to be exhausted. Between the 
rows of trees are planted orange- trees, Indian corn, and mandioea 
without any effort at regularity ; the fruit of the former and the 
corn-meal are highly prized by the negroes. 

The coffee when ripe is a deep red and resembles a cherry, 
though a trifle smaller. Each berry contains two seeds, arranged 
with the flat sides opposed ; the fleshy part that surrounds the 
seeds and separates them is sweet and quite palatable. The seeds 
are separated by a thin layer of the fleshy substance, and both are 
closely enveloped by a tough membrane. In speaking of the seeds 
the ordinary bean is meant that comes in the coffee-bag ready to 
roast. The berries being picked are carried to a trough of run- 
ning water, into which they are thrown and carried along some 
distance with the stream to a drying-bed. The nest step is to 
dry the berries in the sun by spreading them upon large concrete 
beds, about two hundred by three hundred feet, raised between 
two and three feet from the ground, with a slightly-inclined sur- 
face to drain them in case of rain. The berries upon these beds 
will be several inches deep, and during the day, while the sun 
is pouring down upon them, the slaves run through them with 
large wooden hoes, so as to expose new surfaces and insure their 
being thoroughly dried. This drying process turns the berries 
black, the flesh part becomes hard and forms a shell or hull, which 
is removed by machinery. This accomplished the seeds become 
separated, and each with its tough membrane is again exposed to 
the sun for many days, until the membrane becomes brittle and is 
readily removed by machinery. During this second drying the 
coffee is not allowed to be exposed to any moisture, and to protect 
it from the dew and rain, should there be any, nightly, it is hoed 
into numerous heaps on the drying-beds where it was exposed 
during the day, and covered with tarpaulins. 

The seeds with the membrane removed are ready to be win- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 81 

nowed, which not only removes the chaff, but the rapid motion 
imparted by the sieves rubs the seeds against each other, develops 
the oil and polishes them. The quantity of oil in coffee is made 
very apparent whenever the seeds are handled ; the boards of the 
bin and flooring become dark and highly polished, making walk- 
ing difficult. The last process it undergoes before it is ready for 
the market is sorting. This is done exclusively by women, and 
requires that every seed be handled. Color and form are both 
consulted. The small round seeds that pass for Mocha generally 
grow at the tops of the trees. It might not be out of place to 
add here that what is known as " unwashed" coffee, and considered 
of inferior quality in Brazil, is the only kind that is marketable 
in the United States. 

If the coffee is intended for the European market it is generally 
deposited from the troughs of running water into a large semi- 
cylindrical masonry cistern, through which runs a horizontal axis 
with spokes at intervals ; the beans, if ripe, upon being struck by 
these spokes break, and the seeds are detached from the fleshy 
part; the whole mass is then spread on the drying-bed, and the 
method of curing is essentially the same as for other coffee. Coffee 
treated in this way is known as " washed coffee." 

The last night at the fazenda the four hundred slaves were drawn 
up in line at eight p.m. and each given a gill of rum for some extra 
labor they had performed. At a command of the overseer, when 
all had received their liquor, they shouted " God bless us !" and 
were dismissed, the time until 10.30 being their own. This 
interval they employed in amusing the guests with songs and 
dances ; the words, a mixture of Portuguese and some African dia- 
lect; the music, their voices, accompanied by rude drums and a 
large tin filled with beans, resembling a child's rattle. At 10.30 
the bell used to arouse them, to call them to work, etc., was rung, 
when they retired to their sleeping quarters, and after a brief prayer, 
in which they all participated, were locked in for the night. These 
four hundred slaves and their one hundred children are under a 



82 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

rigid surveillance, and the work is regulated as by machinery. In 
order to prevent the mingling of the slaves from the two head- 
quarters, the day for recreation of one will be Sunday, the other 
Thursday. 

The following morning the party left the fazenda with a great 
deal of regret, having enjoyed their visit exceedingly, both on ac- 
count of its novelty and instructiveness and the unremitting atten- 
tion and thoughtfulness of their generous host, Dr. Federico 
Darrigue Faro. On the evening of the 16th they returned to Rio, 
having also visited San Paulo, some three hundred miles distant from 
Rio by railway. 

After the admiral's ball on the 26th of August preparations 
were made for a short trip at sea for target-practice and evolutions 
to ascertain the tactical diameter. The admiral gave orders to go 
to sea on the 29th, but it was stormy, and Captain Weaver post- 
poned the departure until the next day, when we got under way 
and steamed out to about six miles beyond Raza Island. The 
admiral and Lieutenant Marix remained on shore. Lieutenant 
Sebree, assisted by Midshipmen Hood and Gaboon, conducted the 
experiments to ascertain the space in which the ship would turn 
under different rates of steaming and amount of helm. 

In the afternoon we beat to general quarters and fired at a regu- 
lation target at from one hundred to eighteen hundred yards. Six 
rounds were fired from each of the broadside and pivot guns. 
There was considerable sea on at the time, and the ship rolled 
about fifteen degrees each way. The practice was only tolerable, 
one or two shots being unqualifiedly bad, but everything in connec- 
tion with the battery was found in good serviceable condition. The 
marines did some very good practice at small-arms, completely rid- 
dling a box hung from the foreyard arm. The gun divisions followed 
the marines at similar targets after the great-gun practice was over. 
The practice did not give any results worth mentioning, but served to 
familiarize the crew with the Hotchkiss magazine-rifle, new model. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 83 

During the night the ship lay off and on, and the next morn- 
ing the experiments for ascertaining the tactical diameter were 
repeated. The results obtained show that the ship can turn in 
about three times her length at full speed with the helm hard 
over. This distance was obtained by observing the angular dis- 
tances of a buoy by two observers at the extremities of a base- 
line measured off on board ship from points on the poop to the 
topgallant forecastle. The patent log was used as a check on the 
work, and also indicated the amount of head-reach before the 
ship commenced to turn after the helm was put over. We com- 
pleted the work assigned to us about ten A.M., and returned to our 
former anchorage off Rio. 

Lieutenant-Commander Anthony was ordered home on the 
25th of August, he having been condemned by a medical survey. 
He had been ailing for some time, though his departure was a 
great surprise to all. We regretted his leaving exceedingly. He 
left a great many friends behind on board this ship, who would 
have been glad to been able to have expressed their love and 
friendship for him by a farewell dinner. The wardroom officers, 
however, sent him an elegant coin-silver cup for his son, born 
since we arrived on the station. The cup is engraved, " To young 
Mark Anthony, from the W. R. officers of the U. S. S. Brooklyn." 
Among the ship's company Mr. Anthony was well liked and 
esteemed. 

Lieutenant-Commander C. H. Pendleton was relieved by Lieu- 
tenant-Commander G. E. Wingate on Friday, September 1. 

Lieutenant Sebree was detached on the 5th inst., with per- 
mission to return to his home at his own expense. He recently 
received the sad news of the death of his father, which required 
his presence at home. He was the general favorite of the ship, 
and his departure was a great loss to the wardroom officers. The 
latter gave him a farewell dinner, at which were present our min- 
ister, Ex- Governor Osborne and wife, Mr. C. P. Mackie, and the 
Misses Lane. The Misses Lane were left here last July by 



84 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

American steamer " San Jose," which put into Rio on her voyage 
from New York to Panama on account of the serious illness of 
one of the young ladies. Fortunately, she ..recovered, and during 
their detention in Rio the young ladies were entertained several 
times by the wardroom officers, and consequently became very 
well acquainted with them. They left for New York in the 
steamer " Copernicus," and Lieutenant U. Sebree congratulated 
himself in having them as passengers in the same steamer. Lieu- 
tenant Beehler thus became navigator in the place of Lieutenant 
Sebree. 

We got underway at six p.m. on Saturday, September 9, but in 
heaving up the port anchor it was found to be so foul that we 
were delayed until long after dark before we could shape our 
course outside the harbor. While the forecastlemen were busy 
clearing the anchor, the ship was kept under way steaming around 
the harbor and describing all sorts of tactical and other diameters. 
The good old ship handled beautifully under these circumstances, 
and had it been daylight her manoeuvres would have been greatly 
admired by those who might have witnessed them, while as it 
was, the manner in which the ship answered her helm and steamed 
around among the shipping in that dark night served to inspire 
those in charge with every confidence in her steering qualities. 

We experienced good weather all of the next day, with a mod- 
erate long swell from the southeast. At ten a.m. we made all 
plain sail and set the port studding-sails at eleven. At one p.m. 
we stopped steaming, and then continued under sail until 10.30 
P.M., Monday, when the wind failed and we coupled the propeller 
and started ahead under steam alone. We experienced good 
weather although generally cloudy, and continued under steam 
and sail whenever the latter would draw to advantage, without 
any unusual incident. 

On the 13th, while we were going 7.5 knots under all plain 
sail and two-thirds steam-power, we found that by stopping the 
engines the speed was reduced to 2.5 knots, clearly showing the 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 85 

wisdom in using steam, since it would have taken us about three 
times as long to have made the trip had we relied upon sail alone, 
and, as events subsequently proved, we would have been exposed 
to one of the most violent storms of the season had we not have 
arrived at our anchorage as soon as we did. 

At three o'clock, Friday morning, September 15, we sighted Po- 
lonia light, and steamed up the Plate River with fair wind and 
smooth sea. At eleven A.M. the order was given to clear ship for 
action, and the afternoon was devoted to the regular inspection of 
the ship at quarters. After the inspection of the crew and ship 
at quarters, which was very thorough and complete, the engines 
were stopped, and " all boats armed and equipped" were called 
away, and inspected by the admiral to see if all their armament 
and equipments were complete. 

The inspection thus delayed our reaching the anchorage at 
Montevideo until after dark, but the sea being smooth and weather 
propitious we had no difficulty in steaming up to the outer an- 
chorage, where we arrived at 8.30 p.m. Signals were exchanged 
with the " Marion" as we came in, — Very's night signals being 
used, which were plainly read by both vessels. 

The next morning the usual salutes were fired, and official visits 
received from the foreign men-of-war in the harbor. At 10.46 we 
got under way again, and steamed about six miles down the river 
in order to repeat the experiment for ascertaining the tactical 
diameter. These experiments were made under rather more 
favorable conditions and gave very satisfactory results. Upon 
completing these we returned to the city and anchored well in 
the harbor, very near the " Marion," which had been anxiously 
waiting for us for some time. 

During the next week we began to " enjoy" pamperos on a 
small scale ; the sea was very rough almost every day, so much so 
as to make it exceedingly unpleasant for boats. General liberty 
for forty-eight hours was given to the crew in quarter watches at 
a time until all had had that privilege. 



86 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

A naval general court-martial was convened on board the 
" Marion" by order of Admiral Crosby, and disposed of all the 
cases brought before it during that week. 

The " Galena" arrived at Montevideo on the 28th of September, 
twelve days from Rio de Janeiro, having experienced a very stormy 
passage. The " Galena" took the " Marion's" place on this station. 

Admiral Crosby and staff inspected the " Galena" on Thursday, 
October 4, after which Lieutenants C. A. Allibone and J. F. Moser 
and Ensign V. S. Nelson were detached from that ship and ordered 
to the " Brooklyn." Lieutenant Allibone was detailed as flag lieu- 
tenant, while Lieutenant Moser relieved Lieutenant Beehler as 
navigator. 

On Monday, October 9, the wardroom officers gave an informal 
reception to a few friends in Montevideo. There were no elabo- 
rate decorations, though the few flags on the quarter-deck and 
flowers in the wardroom had a very pleasing effect. The afternoon 
was exceedingly pleasant. Mrs. Crosby, who arrived there a week 
after we did, kindly received for the officers and contributed much 
to the success of the occasion. There were about fifty guests in 
all. The band played very well, and the dancing was kept up 
with good spirit. Some of the ladies present were great beauties. 
Indeed, Montevideo can boast of more beautiful women than any 
other place outside of the United States, and we must confess we 
know of very few cities that contain as many in proportion. 

THE CRUISE OF THE "MARION." 

The arrival of the " Galena" was hailed with great delight by 
the officers and crew of the " Marion," who had been anxiously 
waiting for orders home. It was generally understood that the 
" Marion" would only make a short cruise when she first arrived 
on this station, and every new delay only served to disappoint the 
more, until all hands on board began to feel themselves very much 
grieved. The " Marion's" cruise was not a very enviable one ; on 
the way here for the first time she stopped at Rio during a most 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 87 

unhealthy season and contracted an epidemic of yellow fever, by 
which she lost two of her officers, who were buried on Flores Island. 
A long quarantine at Flores Island followed this siege, after which 
she was sent to the Straits and Falkland Islands, so as not to be 
exposed to a warm climate. The next spring, after wintering here 
and at Buenos Ayres, the " Marion" was sent out to search for the 
bark " Trinity" at Heard Island, but her success there t and the 
valuable assistance rendered to the stranded ship " Poonah" at 
Cape of Good Hope have been fully described, and need not be 
repeated. She returned to Montevideo last May, and remained 
until she finally sailed for home at eight a.m., Saturday, September 
30. It would be difficult to depict the happiness of the " Marion's" 
people in their final departure. When she got under way her crew 
manned the rigging, some of them even got up on the trucks, and 
cheered lustily, while they threw their caps overboard in their wild 
delight to cap the climax of their homeward cry. The " Marion" 
left the station with the good will and best wishes of all who have 
had the good fortune to meet with her people. The admiral in- 
spected her just previous to her departure, and this inspection only 
added fresh laurels to those she had gained in her South Atlantic 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Transit of Venus Expedition — Arrival of the Astronomical Party — De- 
parture and Passage to Patagonia — Arrival at Santa Cruz — Building the 
Observatory at Camp Brooklyn — Preparations for observing the Transit — 
Diversions of the Ship's Company while waiting for the Day of the Transit 
— The Object of observing the Transit of Venus — The Photographic Method 
used by American Observers and the Great Success obtained — The Second 
Trip to Santa Cruz — Rating Chronometers — Return to Montevideo — Ad- 
miral Crosby relieved from the Command and transferred to the Asiatic Sta- 
tion — Poem by William Anderson, Seaman, upon the Transit of Venus. 

The admiral transferred his flag to the " Galena" on the 19th 
of October, it being hauled down from our mizzen at eight A.M., 
as it was broken on the " Galena." Lieutenants C. 0. Allibone 
and A. Marix, Midshipmen Snowden and Ripley, Fleet Pay-Clerk 
B. W. Goldsborough, the coxswain and four bargemen, the printer 
with the press, the band, and our saluting battery of two breech- 
loading howitzers with saluting powder were transferred at the same 
time, while we received a twelve-oared cutter in exchange for the 
admiral's barge. 

The steamer " Gallicia" with the Transit of Venus party on 
board arrived that night, and Lieutenant S. W. Very reported on 
board early the next morning. The rest of the party came in the 
afternoon with an immense lighter-load of stores for the Pata- 
gonian observatory. A temporary hurricane-deck was built in the 
waist on both sides of the smoke-stack, upon which the boxed 
frame building and the lumber were stowed, the telescope and deli- 
cate instruments being carefully packed below. Lieutenant Very 
immediately commenced taking the necessary observations for 
rating his chronometers, which were secured to the floor in the 
admiral's state-room. Mr. Very occupied this room and messed 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 89 

with Captain "Weaver. Mr. 0. B. Wheeler, the senior assistant 
astronomer, occupied the room fitted for Lieutenant Marix in the 
admiral's office ; Mr. William Bell, chief photographer, occupied 
Lieutenant Allibone's room in the wardroom ; while Mr. Irwin 
Stanley, assistant photographer, was obliged to sleep in a cot, all 
three of them being assigned to the wardroom mess. 

We coaled ship on the 3d and 4th of October, when we had 
two hundred and sixty-six tons on hand, but as none can be ob- 
tained at Santa Cruz we had to fill up again and take eighty tons 
additional on the spar-deck, which was received on board in bags 
and stowed on both sides between the broadside guns, with narrow 
gangways amidships. A lighter-load of brick, several barrels of 
cement, and an additional lot of lumber were also received on 
board, so that the decks gave the ship the appearance of a freight- 
boat doing a thrifty business. The messes laid in large supplies 
of fresh provisions and vegetables, because nothing of the kind 
could be obtained at Santa Cruz. 

Fires were started early on the morning of the 26th of Octo- 
ber, and at 8.57 a.m. we got under way and steamed out of the 
harbor, making the usual signals to the flag-ship as we left. In 
heaving up our anchor the steam capstan was used as heretofore, 
and as usual gave the greatest satisfaction ; indeed, we should find 
it a very different matter in getting under way if " all hands" 
manned the bars as in the " old navy" ; the thick mud at Monte- 
video and in the river Santa Cruz makes heaving in a large scope 
of chain a very arduous task, and we were fortunate in having 
such a powerful and reliable apparatus to do the work. 

As we steamed out the French flag-ship " Pallas" dipped her 
admiral's flag and signalled " a pleasant voyage," to which we 
signalled " thanks" and dipped the pennant. Very little of mo- 
ment occurred during the trip ; we experienced delightful weather, 
with bright moonlight nights all the way, the only real unpleasant 
feature being the dirt from the coal on deck, which was not con- 
sumed until the day before we arrived off Santa Cruz. 



90 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The Transit of Venus party seemed to have enjoyed their 
sojourn on the " Brooklyn" very much ; they were astonished to 
find a ship so comfortable at sea, especially in these latitudes. 
Mr. Bell amused himself in photographing the ship and groups 
of officers and men, Mr. Stanley caught and stuffed a number of 
Cape pigeons, sea-gulls, etc., while Mr. Wheeler revelled in loga- 
rithms, parallaxes, and other astronomical luxuries. 

"We arrived off Santa Cruz early in the morning of the 2d of 
November, and anchored in order to examine the bar at low-water. 
The only chart of the port is from an English survey in 1834, 
since when a great many changes have taken place in the extent 
and localities of the shoals formed by the alluvial deposits of the 
river. The tide ebbs and flows at from three to six knots per 
hour, giving a rise and fall of from thirty to forty feet. This 
enabled us to accurately locate all the dangers in the navigation, 
and at noon we got under way and crossed the bar at high-tide; 
at three P.M. we temporarily anchored in the river off Entrance 
Point, after which Lieutenant Very went up along the right bank 
of the river to select the permanent anchorage and site for the 
observatory. The next morning we steamed up to the new berth 
and anchored off Keel Point, about fifteen hundred feet from the 
high- water mark on shore, just under the lee of a high bluff north 
of the point. This berth was as close to the site selected as was 
possible, the latter being in the centre of a small valley of about 
fifty acres, open to the river and surrounded by three ranges of 
hills on the other sides. 

We commenced to land the stores and camp equipments imme- 
diately after anchoring. This proved very hard work, as some of 
the packages were large and unwieldy and had to be handled care- 
fully in landing on the beach, after which all were carried by hand 
a distance of about five hundred yards, where the buildings were 
erected. The Transit of Venus party left the ship the same day, 
and from that time lived at the camp constantly, accompanied by 
a guard of four marines, consisting of Corporal Powers and Privates 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 91 

Hurley, Brown, and Murphy. Large working-parties were sent 
ashore daily for the first two weeks, while the carpenter's gang 
lived on shore, and, with John Caspar as mason, erected all the 
buildings and piers under Mr. Very's direction. The Transit 
of Venus party had their own mess-stores, but the rations of the 
men had to be sent to them from the ship, and the camp was con- 
stantly supplied with water from our own tanks, which necessitated 
a great deal of labor. 

The country in this vicinity is absolutely a barren desert, there 
being no trees and very little tough shrubbery. Guanacos, 
ostriches, geese, jacksnipe, and an occasional fox were sought for 
by our sportsmen, who secured a number of the geese and snipe, 
but were not generally successful hunting guanaco, though Mr. 
Smith killed two just before we sailed. The natives hunt them 
on horseback with " bolas," which are round stones or pieces of 
lead on the end of three thongs, six or eight feet long, united at 
a common centre, and thrown to entangle the legs. Considerable 
skill is required to handle the " bolas," and dogs are indispensable, 
a species of Scotch greyhound being used by the natives, as both 
the guanacos and ostriches are very fleet. 

Captain Weaver took a party of officers in the steam-launch to 
Weddell's Bluff, nine miles up the river, where they had an oppor- 
tunity of seeing the French observatory, which was located there 
six weeks before our arrival. They found but two habitations in 
that part of the river, one at a ranch five miles from our anchor- 
age and the other at the bluff. The former lies in a valley near a 
small creek, and its owner has a number of horses and dogs, which 
were hired from time to time by our hunters. He also kept the 
messes supplied with guanaco-meat at three cents a pound. This 
was once served out to the crew. The men, however, as a rule, 
did not relish it, chiefly because they had no means of preparing 
it properly, but the officers thought it very good. The guanaco 
may be generally described as having the head of a camel, the 
body of a deer, the wool of a sheep, and the neigh of a horse. 



92 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The wool is of a reddish brown, intermixed with white in certain 
parts of the body. They live in immense herds all over Pata- 
gonia ; they are shy and very vigilant, and when irritated they 
eject the contents of their mouth, which is very disagreeable, 
upon their assailant. They belong to the camel family, and have 
extra water-cells in their stomachs, though they have no hump on 
the back. The guanaco is probably the wild variety of the 
domesticated Peruvian llama. They often came near the camp, 
and on one occasion a herd of six came down to the edge of the 
bluff opposite the anchorage and offered a good target with a rifle 
from our topgallant forecastle. 

A party of guanaco-hunters started out once after devoting a 
week to constructing stirrups, and came back very much sooner 
than they were expected. It appears that when they finally got 
within range of a herd one of their party dismounted to fire, but 
as he did this his horse shook off the contrivance substituted for 
a bridle and deliberately started for the ranch, while the guanacos 
kicked up their hind legs and started for Sandy Point like a 
lightning-express train. 

The ship's company had excellent sport in hauling the seine ; 
seining-parties left the ship once or twice a week, and almost 
always returned with several hundred pounds of fish, mostly an 
overgrown species of sea-mullet, with a few smelt. These fish 
were very nice, especially when served as a chowder. The seine 
was usually hauled at Sea Lion Island, which is resorted to by 
thousands of gulls and other variety of sea-birds. Several young 
penguins were captured there. The island is literally covered 
with birds' nests, and all kinds of curiously-shaped and spotted 
eggs were brought on board. This island is in the centre of the 
river, and was formed by the alluvial deposits ; skeletons of seals 
and sea-elephants were found, though none of the latter were seen 
alive while we were there. 

The " American Encyclopaedia" describes the sea-lion or sea- 
elephant as the largest of the seal species. They are about half 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 93 

the size of a Greenland whale, and much larger than the largest 
elephants. The hair is coarse, but the thick skin makes very fine 
harness. A single animal yields from fourteen to fifteen barrels 
of blubber, the oil from which is clear, has no bad odor or taste, 
and burns slowly and without smoke. The salted tongues are 
highly esteemed for food. They go as far north as the Plate 
River in winter, and they prefer sandy and desert beaches, espe- 
cially near fresh water, so that Sea-Lion Island ought to be their 
favorite resort. The name of sea-elephant comes from a short 
snout, which they can elongate about one foot similar to an ele- 
phant's trunk. They never attack man unless brutally treated, 
and indiscriminate slaughter has driven them from their former 
haunts. No pumas made their appearance near our camp, and 
but few of the ostriches were seen, though several young ones 
were captured and brought on board. Ostrich-eggs were often 
eaten in the different messes, though not by any means abundant. 

After the camp was duly pitched, the ship's company settled 
down to their routine drills and put the ship in a more efficient 
condition as a man-of-war. The battery was thoroughly over- 
hauled and the ship renovated throughout. The high winds were 
exceedingly disagreeable, calms were quite exceptional, and the 
winds blew in gales almost all the time, with velocities ranging 
from thirty to sixty miles per hour. 

Wednesday, November 29, the Argentine gunboat " Uruguay" 
arrived from Montevideo with a large mail for us, giving us spe- 
cial cause for celebrating Thanksgiving the next day, the last 
Thursday in November. This mail brought us news from home 
up to the latter part of September. The " Uruguay" was on spe- 
cial duty to visit all the stations of parties observing the transit 
of Venus and to offer the services of the Argentine government. 
She visited the stations at Carmen and Chupat on the way, and 
after visiting the French observatory at Weddell's Bluff she went 
to Sandy Point, where there were four other observatories. 

Thanksgiving was specially celebrated by a performance by the 

7 



94 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

" Brooklyn" minstrel troupe, which was quite a creditable affair 
considering the difficulties with which the troupe had to contend. 
The next day we had target-practice with great guns, one round 
being fired in broadside. The practice was very good. The quar- 
terly target-practice with rifles took place the previous week at a 
range marked off along the beach under the bluff. 

The steamer " Uruguay" came down from up the river Satur- 
day evening following and kindly took a mail for us to Sandy 
Point. The first half of the following week we enjoyed pleasant 
weather without any furious winds. This was taken advantage of by 
drills, all boats being called away armed and equipped for distant 
service on December 5. 

When the sun rose, at 3.45 A.M., on the morning of the 6th of 
December the sky was completely overcast, but fortunately for our 
party it cleared off about eight a.m., and remained perfectly clear 
all day. The party at the camp were successful in all the obser- 
vations of the contacts, and secured two hundred and twenty-four 
photographs of the sun while Venus was crossing. All hands 
were interested in observing the sun. Spy-glasses were arranged 
with smoked object-glasses, and almost all the broken glass in the 
ship was smoked and used to see Venus on the sun. Among the 
curious means devised was that of a bottle with its bottom smoked. 
From looking through this the marines claimed extraordinary 
results. 

During the rest of our stay the weather was very inclement ; it 
blew in strong gales, and was generally cold and disagreeable. 
The first few days in December were the pleasantest we experi- 
enced, while the day of the transit was the clearest day of all. 
Sunday, December 10, the ship got adrift from the anchorage. The 
port sheet-anchor promptly brought the ship up, and when the two 
bowers were weighed they were found to be badly foul of each 
other. Both anchors were cleared during the day. We had a 
great deal of trouble with the cable during the rest of that week, 
the new berth not being as good an anchorage as that selected. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 95 

The boats had considerable difficulty in stemming the strong tides, 
and on one occasion the whale-boat was capsized at the gangway ; 
John Port narrowly escaped drowning, but was saved by a rope 
timely thrown to him from the poop. 

The Argentine steamer " Uruguay" returned from Sandy Point 
December 10, having sent our mail from there. The " Hartford" 
had arrived there from Montevideo, and was then waiting for coal 
to arrive from Falkland Islands. The French gunboat " Volage" 
sailed December 12, not to return. The French party established 
the site of their observatory by lunar occultations previous to our 
arrival, but we had no such opportunity. 

The Transit of Venus party came on board at two A.M., Decem- 
ber 16, when we got under way and steamed out of the harbor, 
using the north channel instead of the one laid down in the chart. 
The tents and instruments had been sent off as soon as the party 
were through with them, but the frame houses were all left stand- 
ing. The pyramid built by our carpenter's mate, Henry Pharoah, 
and used for the equatorial house, stood out like an Egyptian 
monument to commemorate the success of our expedition. 

Our good fortune stood by us as usual, and we had delightful 
weather nearly all the return passage. We steamed nearly all the 
time, making sail whenever it would draw. When we arrived in 
the river Plate early Saturday morning, 23d instant, we experi- 
enced a little disagreeable weather, with rain and wind and moder- 
ately rough sea, but the good old ship went along beautifully, and 
arrived at the anchorage off Montevideo at sunset the same day. 
The storm cleared off just as we anchored, and the setting sun 
shone out from under the black clouds with beautiful effect. A 
magnificent rainbow arched the city, while the reflected sunlight 
from the windows and dome of the cathedral was almost as if a 
brilliant illumination to welcome us back again. We found the 
" Galena" at anchor, having just returned from target-practice. 
An immense mail was sent off by Mr. Evans, and all hands were 
absorbed in the news from home. Messrs. Bell and Stanley left 



96 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

the ship immediately after our arrival, and proceeded home by 
the next steamer. Messrs. Very and Wheeler remained, and 
went back with us to Santa Cruz about January 3. 

Christmas-day was hardly noticed on board ship, except in the 
messes, where the fresh provisions were heartily enjoyed, especially 
since we had been deprived of them so long. Lieutenant E. W. 
Watson reported on board for duty as navigator, relieving Lieu- 
tenant Moser, who, with Ensign V. S. Nelson, went back to the 
" Galena." 

THE TRANSIT OF VENUS. 

The object of the observations of Venus crossing the sun's disc 
is to find the distance of the sun from the earth, which distance 
then serves as a base-line by which to measure-distances in the 
heavens. To understand the methods it will be necessary to recall 
some rudimentary principles : if we divide a semicircle by its 
radius we get a quotient of 3.1416. A semicircle contains one 
hundred and eighty degrees, which, when divided by 3.1416, will 
give 57.295. Now, if we have a ball one foot in diameter, and 
place it at such distance from us that its angular diameter by a 
sextant is one degree, we know that the ball is a little over fifty- 
seven and one-quarter feet from us. If the ball is moved until it 
measures one minute it will be sixty times farther off, or 34371 
feet, and if moved to measure one second, 206,264| feet, or about 
thirty-nine miles. The sun's angular diameter measures on a sex- 
tant thirty-two minutes, and if we divide the distance of a ball 
(one foot in diameter) when its angular diameter measures one 
minute, or 34371 feet, by 32, we get 107.4, which shows us that 
the distance of the sun is 107.4 times its actual diameter. But 
this gives no clue to the distance in miles, because we don't know 
the diameter of the sun in miles. The only way, then, to 
find this diameter is to find how many miles an angle of one 
minute measures at the sun's distance, and this is accomplished by 
observing the transit of a planet across the sun. 

The earth's diameter is known within two hundred feet, and if 




THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 97 

we know the earth's angular diameter its distance could be very 
readily found. Suppose, then, S to be a wall, V a ball, and that 
there are two observers at E and A with telescopes. 



" — . s 



The observer at E looks toward V, and it appears to him to be 
at the lower point of S on the wall, while the other observer sees 
it at the upper end of S. The distance between the observers is 
known, and if the diagram represents the sun, Venus, and two 
points on the earth, the relative distance of Venus from the sun 
and earth can be used to find the actual value of the earth's an- 
gular diameter at the sun, or the parallax of the sun. The rela- 
tive distances of the planets from the sun have been known for 
two centuries, from which we find that the distance from Venus 
to the sun is 2.61 times greater than the distance from Venus to 
the earth when Venus is between the sun and the earth. 

The last transit occurred in 1874, from which the angular value 
of S was found to be 22.96 seconds of arc, which divided by 2.61 
gives 8.8 seconds, the long-sought-for value of the sun's parallax. 
This brief account, however, does not include the refinements ne- 
cessary to give anything like accuracy. The observers at E and A 
should be exactly at opposite points on the mean equatorial diameter 
of the earth, the motions of the earth and Venus should be allowed 
for, and a host of mathematical calculations made for refraction, 
heat, etc. 

Knowing the sun's parallax to be about 8.8 seconds, the distance 
of the sun is computed by dividing the mean equatorial radius of 
the earth, — 3962.72 miles by the sine of 8.8 seconds, which gives 
92,882,917 miles as the distance of the sun from the earth. 
People naturally ask, where is the use of sending expeditions to 



98 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

observe the transit, when the sun's parallax is already known ? The 
answer is that the precise value is still uncertain ; it is not known 
within a tenth of a second exactly. The variations in the heat 
and refraction of the light cause this uncertainty, while a hundredth 
of a second makes a difference of over one hundred thousand miles 
in the computed distance of the sun. 

The usual method of observing the transit is to note the time 
when Venus appears to touch the edge of the sun, then to watch 
when it just appears wholly on the sun, and after that to wait 
about five hours until it appears on the other edge, and also as it 
ceases to be in contact. These four contacts constitute the observa- 
tions by the equatorial telescope, but all the United States parties 
place their main dependence upon photographs of Venus as it 
crosses the sun's disc. In 1874 the photographic results obtained 
by the European parties were conflicting, so that they rely more 
on the observations of the contacts, but great refinement has been 
introduced into the photographic methods, and we believe our 
results will be the best. 

The United States Naval Observatory sent out eight different 
parties. One party each at Washington, Cedar Keys, Florida, 
San Antonio, Texas, Fort Thome, New Mexico, Cape of Good 
Hope, Santiago, Chili, New Zealand, and Patagonia. All these 
parties were equipped with exactly similar apparatus, and being 
scattered and so far apart, it is almost certain that many of the 
observers had clear weather and good observations. " Camp 
Brooklyn" was the only one which was not in telegraphic communi- 
cation with the rest of the world, and therefore the observations to 
establish the exact site of the observatory had to be made with the 
greatest nicety. 

The camp consisted of a number of tents and houses arranged 
with regular order and surrounded by a ditch. The equatorial 
house occupied the southeast corner. It was shaped like a 
pyramid, and contained a large five-inch equatorial telescope with 
driving clock-work attachment. A small frame building con- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 99 

tained the transit instruments, which were used to determine the 
latitude and longitude of the observatory. This also contained a 
chronograph, which was in electric communication with the equa- 
torial house, chronometer room, and the shutter of the photo- 
graphic house. This chronograph marked the time of .each and 
every observation, and also of each photograph. The chronometer 
house was ten yards west of the transit room. This house was, 
as its name implies, the building for the chronometers, and also 
for a pendulum ; this last, however, was not an essential part of the 
Transit of Venus observations, but for the Coast Survey service. 
T 1 There were nine chronometers in use ; three of them were in 
electric connection as break-circuit chronometers. One being regu- 
lated to keep sidereal time of Washington, one of Greenwich, and 
one of Greenwich mean time. Mr. Very had one chronometer 
which had no compensation, and which therefore showed all the 
effects of change in temperature. This served as a check upon 
the other chronometers, and exemplifies the nature of the exact 
accuracy required for these observations. 

The photo-heliograph apparatus was in the centre of the camp. 
Its piers were forty feet apart, and were in line with the pier in 
the transit house. The photographic house was the dark camera 
of the ordinary photographic apparatus. The lenses instead of 
being in a small tube were, in this case, in a tube forty feet long. 
This tube was covered with a roof, and connected the house with 
the pier of the heliostat. The heliostat is simply a mirror so 
arranged by clock-work as to throw an image of the sun directly 
in the tube. The tube was horizontal, and had a measuring rod 
with thermometers attached in order to show all effects of expansion 
by heat, so as to determine the exact distance of the mirror from the 
negative plate. The clock-work cannot be made to follow the sun's 
apparent motion at all times, so that one of the party had to attend 
and keep the image in the tube by means of small tangent screws. 
The mirror was not silvered, but was simply a highly-polished glass 
specially constructed for the purpose. 



100 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The image of the sun was thus thrown into the tube very much 
like a small boy used to make the sun shine in the teacher's eyes 
at school by turning a bright piece of tin at different angles. This 
spot of light shines on the object-glass and through a plate with 
carefully-ruled lines; these lines cross at right angles and cause 
the photograph to be divided into a number of small squares, the 
centre square being marked with a cross. The negative plate was 
fitted into a holder on an iron pier firmly built on the ground. 
The bottom of the tube was provided with a slide, which moved 
in front of the plate and closed the bottom of the tube. The 
slide met an electric connection when pushed either way ; this con- 
nected with the chronograph, and thus marked the exact instant 
each photograph was taken. This enabled them to take one picture 
in a minute and a half. 

The rest of the camp consisted of rows of tents, five tents 
being in a row in rear of the chronometer house, and used as 
sleeping quarters for the party and the guard of marines. One 
tent was used for a storehouse directly in rear of the photographic 
house, while the row in rear of the equatorial house was of four 
tents, used for dining-room and kitchen and tents for magnetic 
observations. Mr. Very kindly explained all the details of the 
observatory, many of which are omitted here for want of space. 

On the day of the transit Mr. 0. B. Wheeler had a three-and- 
a-half inch telescope on a tripod outside of the transit house with 
which he observed the contacts, while Mr. Very observed with 
the larger telescope in the equatorial house. Messrs. Very and 
Wheeler took their posts at the telescopes five minutes before the 
computed time of the first contact. This occurred at twenty-one 
minutes after nine A.M., December 6. The first contact is always 
more or less doubtful, since it is difficult to determine the exact 
instant when an almost invisible body touches an intensely bright 
one. The observers noted the time by their chronometers when 
they believed the sun and Venus to be in actual contact. They 
then waited twenty minutes, until 9.41, when Venus was entirely 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 101 

on the sun with its edge touching. At ten A.M. all four of the 
party went to the photo-heliographic apparatus, Mr. Wheeler 
being at the mirror to keep the sun in the tube. Mr. Very was 
at the shutter inside the dark photographic house with Messrs. 
Bell and Stanley, who handled the plates as the photographs of 
the sun were taken. 

The position of Venus on the sun was thus accurately photo- 
graphed during the time it was wholly on the disc. These photo- 
graphs of the sun are four and a half inches in diameter, on 
which Venus appears like a small ball a little over an eighth of an 
inch in diameter, and each picture is divided into sixty-four squares 
to facilitate the measurement of the distance traversed by Venus 
in transit. It is manifest that if each photograph is true, and if 
the exact instant of time be accurately recorded, the whole period 
of transit can be perfectly recorded. They took in all two hun- 
dred and twenty-four pictures, and stopped just before Venus came 
to the other edge of the sun. Mr. Very and Mr. Wheeler re- 
sumed their posts at the telescopes at 3.15 p.m., and observed the 
third contact with the edge of the sun at 3.19, and the last con- 
tact at 3.39 p.m. 

Messrs. Very and Wheeler differ very slightly in the observed 
times of the contacts. Each observer has his personal error, the 
amount of which must be ascertained by experiments with an arti- 
ficial transit at the Naval Observatory at Washington. This con- 
sists in observing contacts of a black ball moved by machinery 
across a very bright screen. The observations to determine the 
latitude and longitude of the observatory were then continued 
until December 16, when the party returned on board the " Brook- 
lyn" and took passage to Montevideo, where more observations 
were taken to definitely find the exact position of " Camp Brook- 
lyn." 

After the second trip to " Camp Brooklyn" the party went to 
Washington to continue their computations upon the photographs. 
These were packed in three different packages, each of which had 



102 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

a full account of the observations. Each package was sent to 
Washington separately so that there should be less risk of losing 
all in case of accident. 

The transit of Venus occurs alternately in eight and about 
one hundred and twenty-two years. The next transit will be in 
2004. The first observations of the transit in modern times were 
made in 1761, when England and France both sent observers 
abroad, among whom Le Gentil, a French astronomer, had a very 
unfortunate experience. He went to the East Indies in a French 
naval vessel, and finding the port he intended to go to in posses- 
sion of the English, then at war with France, he sailed for another 
port, but was at sea the day of the transit. He then determined 
to wait for the next transit, in 1769, supporting himself there in 
business and making everything ready for his observations. At 
length the long-looked-for day arrived and he was all prepared to 
make the observations. The sun rose clear, but just before the 
time the transit began a sudden storm arose, the sky became 
cloudy, and before it cleared again the transit was over. It was 
two weeks before the unfortunate astronomer could hold a pen to 
write his disappointment to his friends at Paris. 

The commencement of the new year found us making prepara- 
tions for the second trip to Santa Cruz. Stores were received in 
different departments, and the bunkers filled with coal, besides 
eighty-three tons in bags on deck between the guns. 

Lieutenant H. 0. Handy, who had been ill for several months, 
was recommended by a board of medical officers to remain in 
Montevideo, and was transferred to the British hospital for treat- 
ment during our absence. Master A. M. Knight was then tem- 
porarily transferred from the " Galena" to take his place and assist 
the three remaining watch officers. 

We started fires under four boilers at one p.m. January 3, and 
got under way at 5.20 p.m. the same day, and started out under 
steam. In heaving up our port anchor a piece of a sheet of 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 103 

copper was found on the chain, evidently torn off from the ship's 
bottom. This was at first supposed to have been torn from some 
place near the water-line, but its locality could not be seen, even 
when the ship pitched considerably during a subsequent gale. 

We experienced good weather for the first five days of the 
passage, and we thought we would make an exceptionally good 
run, but head-winds, coupled with a moderate sea, reduced our 
speed considerably, though we continued on comfortably until one 
A.M. of January 10, when we got a regular sou'wester. The sea 
became very rough, and it blew so hard that we were obliged to 
stop the engines and lay to under close-reefed main-topsail, fore 
storm- staysail, and storm-mizzen, with which the ship behaved 
very nicely. 

Land was sighted early in the morning, but we needed no 
beacons to designate our whereabouts. The furious wind was an 
old Santa Cruz acquaintance, and it seemed as if she had only 
come out to meet us at the door. The next day, however, the 
wind and sea moderated, and we then stood in through the north 
channel, crossed the bar, and came to anchor off Keel Point, in 
Santa Cruz River, at 12.30 a.m., January 11. We found the 
frame buildings of " Camp Brooklyn" still standing, and made 
use of the equatorial house as one of the bearings of our anchor- 
age. Lieutenant Very and Mr. Wheeler went ashore in the after- 
noon, and took their instruments for making the magnetic observa- 
tions with them, and at the same time commenced their series of 
observations for rating the chronometers. 

We found no change in the general appearance of the vicinity. 
Guanacos were not as plentiful, owing to the drought, and officers 
and men took very little interest in anything except the ship. 
Only one seining-party left the ship, but they only caught a few 
smelt and some mullet ; the latter, however, were in much better 
condition than during our first visit. We had boat drills and tar- 
get-practice with small-arms on the beach, but, as the chronometers 
were not taken ashore this time, we did not have great-gun target- 



104 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

practice. Great-gun firing is not likely to affect chronometers if 
ordinary precautions are taken, but the importance of having no 
shadow of doubt upon the results of our expedition necessitated 
deferring everything to their accuracy. 

Friday, January 12, the Brazilian corvette " Parnahyba" came 
in and anchored near us. She had the Brazilian Transit of Venus 
party on board, in charge of Mr. Cruls, the celebrated Brazilian 
astronomer, from whom Cruls's comet is named. 

The Brazilians had two stations in the straits, one at Sandy 
Point and the other on Santa Marta Island, near the second nar- 
rows. They succeeded in observing all four contacts, but did not 
use the photographic methods. Their expedition is coupled with 
a scientific exploration of the coast of Patagonia. This duty was 
the occasion of the " Parnahyba's" going up to Weddell's Bluff, 
whence she sailed for other Patagonian ports on the 18th of Jan- 
uary. 

The time interval for rating chronometers is ten days, but the 
weather was exceedingly disagreeable. It stormed so constantly 
and was so generally overcast with rain, hail, and snow, that we 
were detained until January 27. The bad weather laid up nearly 
all the officers in the wardroom. All of them suffered more or less 
with severe colds, and at one time there was only one watch officer 
able to do duty. The men did not seem to suffer so much, but 
colds were quite common, and all were heartily glad to get away. 

The buildings at " Camp Brooklyn" were abandoned, not being 
worth transportation to the United States, and it is probable that 
Coronell, the squatter at the ranch above Keel Point, will convert 
them into comparatively palatial mansions. 

Monday, January 22, the French gunboat " Volage" came into 
the harbor and brought us our mail from Montevideo. The 
" Volage" was on her way to Tahiti, and stopped outside to make 
some additional surveys upon the outer bar. She came in for the 
sole purpose of bringing us our mail, an act of courtesy in keeping 
with the usual politeness of the French people. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 105 

Captain Weaver took Mr. Richmond on board at Santa Cruz as 
a passenger in the cabin to Montevideo. Mr. Richmond is a citi- 
zen of Buenos Ayres, and was sent to Santa Cruz by tbe Argen- 
tine government with provisions for the relief of the people at the 
Argentine subprefecture, which he brought to Santa Cruz in the 
" Parnahyba" from Sandy Point. Mr. Richmond gave rather a 
glowing account of the productions of the soil on the islands in 
the river, and of large portions of Patagonia hitherto considered 
barren. He reported the fisheries as being very valuable, and that 
some portions of the coast are rich in bird guano. Space will not 
permit a description of the country and the Indians who inhabit it, 
but those who wish information about the resources of Patagonia 
are referred to Muster's " At Home with the Patagonians," which 
is considered by far the best on the subject. 

The weather finally cleared on January 26, and enabled Mr. 
Very to complete his observations, and there being no further 
cause for us to remain, we got under way at eleven a.m., Satur- 
day, January 27, and gladly bade farewell to " Camp Brooklyn" 
without any desire to visit the place again. Though our experi- 
ence at Santa Cruz was far from pleasant, yet the eminent success 
of the astronomical observations will leave only pleasant memories 
of the expedition. 

The passage back to Montevideo was the best we had yet made. 
The weather was remarkably fine, and one day we logged a distance 
of 202.6 miles. "We arrived at Montevideo at eight p.m., Friday, 
February 2, and exchanged signals with the " Galena" as we came 
in. Commander Batcheller came on board as soon as we had 
anchored and informed us that Captain Weaver was commander- 
in-chief of the station. 

Admiral Crosby left Montevideo on January 28, in the royal 
mail steamer " Trent" for London, where he expected to receive 
instructions to take command of the Asiatic Squadron. The ad- 
miral was accompanied by his wife and Lieutenant Marix. They 
all went direct to Southampton and thence, via the Suez Canal, to 



106 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Hong-Kong. The admiral was very anxious to take Lieutenant 
Allibone with him, but the Department refused to permit his taking 
more than one, and Mr. Marix had the first choice. We hoisted 
the senior officer's pennant at the mizzen at eight a.m., February 
3, and Captain Weaver assumed command in the following 
squadron order : 

Squadron Order ) U. S. S. " Brooklyn," Montevideo, Uruguay, 

No. 1. J February 3, 1883. 

Rear-Admiral Pierce Crosby, United States Navy, having resigned the com- 
mand of this squadron, I have assumed command from this date. 

All squadron orders now in force will remain so until otherwise directed. 

A. W. WEAVER, 

Captain U.S.N., Commanding, U. S. Naval Force, 

on South Atlantic Station. 

The same day the chaplain returned on board from leave, and 
Midshipmen Ripley and Snowden, of the admiral's staff, the 
printer, band, and bargemen, all came back again from the "Ga- 
lena," the precaution taken against bringing cockroaches from 
her being quite an incident in connection with their return. 

The usual offers of service were tendered by the foreign men- 
of-war in the harbor, and we settled down into our old routine. 
Sunday, February 4, held general muster, when the above order 
was read to the ship's company. The next week we coaled ship, 
set up the rigging, painted the yards and masts, tarred down, and 
completely overhauled the ship. A fresh coat of paint outside 
finished the work, and her fine appearance can be justly described 
as reflecting great credit on all. General liberty for forty-eight 
hours was given to the crew in detachments of fifty at a time, and 
their prompt return and good behavior on shore spoke well for 
the discipline. Upon our return we were very much pleased to 
find Mr. Handy convalescing, and by the 10th he recovered and 
resumed his duties on board. The " Galena" sent our saluting 
battery back to us on the 7th and the barge a few days later. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 107 

We were very sorry to hear of the sudden death by apoplexy 
of Admiral Baron Grivel, of the French navy, on board the 
" Pallas." He assisted at the reception of the Emperor of Brazil 
on board this ship at Bio ; he was very much beloved, and his 
death is a great loss to the French navy. Captain Weaver joined 
with the French ram " La Bourdonnais" in half-masting the colors, 
and he also fired a salute of fifteen minute-guns in his memory. 

Washington's birthday was only observed officially. The ship 
was beautifully dressed, rainbow style from sunrise to sunset, and 
at noon we fired a national salute of twenty-one guns. All the 
foreign men-of-war and most of the shipping in port also dressed, 
while the fort on Mount Cerro joined in the salute. The " Ga- 
lena" was not present to join with us in these observances, as Cap- 
tain Weaver had sent her to Colonia on the 15th, where she 
had opportunity for boat drills and landed a naval brigade to camp 
out for several days, while an effort was made to destroy the 
roaches with which she was infested. 

THE TRANSIT OF VENUS. 
By W. Anderson, seaman, United States Flag-ship " Brooklyn." 

The sun was setting brightly 

O'er Montevideo Bay. 
It shone upon a ship of war 

That at her anchor lay, 
And everything on board of her 

Looked neatly, trim, and bright, 
And under her mizzen peak 

She flew the stars and stripes. 

I thought I'd go and join her, 

For there was no work on shore, 
So I went to try my fortune 

In a Yankee man-of-war. 
I joined this well-known war-ship, 

The "Brooklyn" was her name, 
The flag-ship of our station, 

And from New York she came. 



108 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

I scarcely had been on board 

Above a week or more, 
When we received the orders, 

To our disappointment sore, 
To steam away for Santa Cruz, 

Where nothing's to be found 
But barren hills and sea-birds, 

With which it does abound. 

We sailed and reached the river, 

And a boat was sent on shore ; 
To find a place to pitch our tents, 

They quickly did explore. 
The sea-birds rose in thousands 

With thrilling cries and screams, 
The penguins formed like soldiers 

To welcome us it seemed. 

Early next morn we started 

To get our stores on shore ; 
There were heliographs and telescopes, 

And I could not say what more. 
And when our work was finished, 

Having so long to lay, 
We got up fishing-parties 

To pass the time away. 

We went to Penguin Island, 

It was covered with low brush, 
And many hundred gulls' eggs 

Were collected there by us. 
Whilst we were hauling the seine, 

And the officers firing powder, 
We always found plenty of cooks 

For dishing up fish-chowder. 

And so the day came quickly on 

For Venus to appear ; 
The morning broke in splendor, 

The horizon was clear. 
The astronomers at their places 

Observed Venus on the sun, 
And took 224 photographs, 

Which surely was well done. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 109 

And now our task being finished, 

And glad enough were we, 
"We bid adieu to Santa Cruz, 

In South Ameriky. 
I think that I will now conclude, 

But all I've wrote is truth, 
I've sketched to you the outlines 

Of our trip to Santa Cruz. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Montevideo — The Carnival Festivities in 1883 — Full Accounts of the " Pom- 
ito" Warfare with the Montevidean Belles — The Masked Balls at the Clubs 
in Montevideo — Scientific Evolutions on Board the " Brooklyn" to deter- 
mine Tactical Diameter — Departure of Naval Cadets for Examination at 
Annapolis — A Visit to a Saladero — Description of the Principal Industry of 
Uruguay — The Fire Department at Montevideo — Gallant Conduct of Sev- 
eral of the Crew of the " Brooklyn" — Surprise of the Citizens at the In- 
trepid Bravery of the " Yankee" Sailors-— A Bull-Fight at Montevideo — 
Description of the Actors and the Bull-Ring — Arrival of a Paraguayan 
Man-of-War at Montevideo — Brief Sketch of a Thrilling Incident in the 
Paraguayan War. 

THE CARNIVAL OF '83 AT MONTEVIDEO. 

The word carnival is derived from the Latin caro, meaning 
flesh, and vale, farewell, — farewell to flesh. It is the name of a 
festival observed in Roman Catholic countries immediately before 
the commencement of Lent. Carnival is observed in many of the 
cities of Europe, notably Rome, Florence, Nice, Barcelona, and 
Madrid, and in the Spanish- American cities of South America. 
In the United States its observance is limited to a few Southern 
cities, such as New Orleans, Memphis, and Baton Rouge, and only 
one day, the third, Mardi Grras is observed. In these cities the 
celebration consists only in a grand expensive procession, where 
the king of the carnival, Rex, is represented by the person sub- 



110 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

scribing the most money to defray the expenses of the procession, 
and it was stated that in 1882 the price paid at New Orleans for 
this honor was fifteen thousand dollars. Fancy-dress and masked 
balls are also given Mardi Gras night. This year Carnival fell 
on the 4th, 5th, and 6th of February, and at Montevideo the 11th 
was also observed, when the burial of King Carnival took place. 

The principal streets (named after historical dates) — the 25th 
of May and the 18th of July — were spanned by arches, which 
were ornamented with small flags of various colors during the 
day and with colored gas-jets at night, thus giving the city a very 
brilliant and fantastic appearance. Until the afternoon, with the 
exception of these decorations, there was little to indicate the 
presence of Carnival except the stands at the corners and nu- 
merous small boys peddling pomos and pomitos. As these form 
one of the most important features of the festival, a description of 
them may prove interesting to the reader. They are similar to 
the tubes for artists' oil colors, and consist of a soft leaden flask 
closed at the lower end and with a pin-opening at the other ; this 
is closed with a little screw cap, and the whole flask covered with 
fancy decorated paper. By removing the screw cap and squeezing 
the porno a small stream of perfumed water is thrown out. Pom- 
itos are simply small-sized pomos. These were sold in thousands, 
and cost, according to size, from two to twenty cents. 

About three o'clock in the afternoon the streets commenced to 
present an animated appearance ; groups of men and girls in dom- 
inoes and masks began to promenade, and small processions of 
" companaras," — boys and young men in costume with blackened 
faces, — led by a few pieces of music, also paraded the streets. 
Water was the ammunition relied upon by everybody, and, whether 
thrown from pomos, pomitos, paper bags, buckets, or from a hose 
attached to a street hydrant, was received in good grace by every 
one, and with genuine amusement by spectators. Every one, from 
the small child to the old man, was armed with pomitos and ready 
to do battle. Ladies in the windows were ready to squirt them 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. Ill 

on the passer-by, and those on the balconies threw water down 
upon the unlucky pedestrian and upon those in the open carriages. 
As a rule the gentler sex received the greatest attention, as men 
seldom took the trouble to attack each other. 

Ladies seldom appeared on the street unless in domino and 
masked, but many during the evening were out in carriages, those 
wishing only to see the fun having the windows closed, but those 
desiring to participate in open carriages. The occupants of these 
were generally in costume and masked, and fully prepared to not 
only resist, but to open an attack at any time. The fun was at its 
height from seven to ten in the evening, and then the streets 
were crowded. Carriages slowly drove up and down the streets, 
and their occupants were the objects of attack from every one, 
men not only walking alongside of them discharging pomitos, but 
in some instances getting on the carriage -steps and taking a ride, 
at the same time having a pitched battle with the fair ones inside, 
and often being compelled to beat a retreat. Wherever a female 
was seen, either on the street, in the shops, or in the windows, she 
was the object of attack. In many cases they were fully prepared 
to return the compliment and did not wait to be attacked, as was 
exemplified one evening at the English Club when a party of girls 
took possession and drove the occupants out. During the evening 
gentlemen called upon their lady friends, sometimes in dominoes 
and masks, and they generally received a wet welcome, as several 
officers ascertained who tried the experiment, for at one house they 
were almost submerged by several young ladies. 

About eleven the fun for the day was over and people went 
home to dress for the balls. These masked balls were very nu- 
merous, as many as eight or ten every evening. Montevideo is a 
very cosmopolitan city, and the different nationalities have their 
separate clubs, the Uruguayan, Spanish, French, Italian, and 
English being the principal ones. The members of these clubs, 
with the exception of the English, gave one or more masked balls 
during Carnival, and very kindly extended invitations to the oflfi- 



112 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

cers of the " Galena" and " Brooklyn." In addition to these 
balls there were several subscription and public balls at the prom- 
inent theatres. No one appeared at the ball-rooms until after 
midnight, and they were still crowded at daybreak, and as the 
club-rooms were situated very near each other, many of the offi- 
cers visited several the same morning. The decorations of the 
club-rooms, the music and refreshments, were very fine, but 
dancing was of minor importance, as every one seemed to prefer 
to promenade, talk, flirt, etc. Still, dancing was carried on to 
some extent, the polka and mazourka being the most prominent 
dances noticed, the rooms being too crowded to indulge in the 
popular quadrille. G-entlemen were not masked, except in a few 
instances, at the Spanish and Italian clubs, but were in evening 
dress, and the officers in full uniform, which added to the bril- 
liancy of the rooms. As the club balls of Montevideo, especially 
at Carnival, are noted for the beauty of their lady guests, we were 
prepared in part for the scenes in which we participated, but re- 
gret our inability to do anything like justice to the beauty and 
wit we encountered, or to a description of the toilets and costumes 
we observed. 

The principal object of the ladies seemed to be to disguise 
themselves without attempting to copy any particular costume, 
and although many were very rich and beautiful, still one noticed 
the absence of the usual characters, such as Red Riding- Hoods, 
Shepherdesses, Gypsies, etc. This absence of characteristic cos- 
tumes, and the fact that most of the ladies adopted a high, shrill 
tone of voice in talking, made it almost impossible to recognize 
most of the ladies, and many laughable mistakes and surprises 
took place in consequence. Ball-room etiquette in South Amer- 
ica differs greatly from ours at home. A young lady goes to a 
ball with her chaperon, sits near her, and hardly ever is out of her 
sight, except to dance with some approved person, and such an 
event as going out in the conservatory or balcony for a little air, 
or out on the stairs to have a little cream and a great deal of flirt- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 113 

ing, is almost unknown. During Carnival, in contradiction to the 
usual custom, ladies are allowed the greatest license. They walk 
around the ball-rooms unaccompanied by escort, and talk, flirt, or 
dance with any one they wish to, and seem to try and make up 
for the restrictions imposed upon them since the previous Carni- 
val, and this latitude, combined with their beauty and wit, makes 
one fully realize the truth of the traditions handed down of the 
South American beauties. Gentlemen also have the privilege of 
speaking to any lady in mask, so no participant could blame any 
one but himself or his deficiency as a linguist if he failed to 
enjoy himself to the utmost. 

The general opinion of all the officers attending the balls was 
that they were most thoroughly enjoyable, and they are deeply 
indebted to the officers and members of the several clubs for the 
invitations and courtesies extended to them. 

Sunday, the 11th, was the last day of Carnival, and every one 
seemed possessed with the idea of making up for the loss of any 
fun they had missed during the previous days. During the after- 
noon the ceremony of the burial of Rex, King of the Carnival, took 
place. A procession paraded the streets, headed by a man on horse- 
back dressed in black, with a high hat and crape trimmings ; he 
was followed by four men bearing a litter, on which was supposed 
to be the body of King Rex. Then came a man dressed to repre- 
sent the devil, after him a band of music, and the remainder of 
the procession consisted of numerous maskers in various costumes. 
They marched through the principal streets to the upper plaza, 
where a mock religious ceremony took place, and then the sup- 
posed remains were escorted to the place of burial, where instead 
of the man the body of a pig or horse was substituted and buried. 
That night the ball at the Uruguayan Club was a particularly fine 
one ; it was largely attended by the fashionable society, the diplo- 
matic corps, and foreign naval officers. It was a grand success, 
and a fitting finale to the Carnival of '83. 



114 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 



CHANGE IN THE DUTIES AND TITLES OP OUR JUNIOR OFFI- 
CERS. 

An order from the Navy Department, in accordance with recent 
act of Congress, changed the title of cadet-midshipmen and cadet- 
engineers, all of whom are designated as naval cadets, and an 
equal degree of proficiency is required of them as line officers and 
engineers. In consequence of this the naval cadets exchanged 
duties, — Mr. Parsons and Mr. Perry to serve as engineers, while 
Mr. Beach and Mr. Smith perform the duties of line officers. 

Monday, March 5, we got under way and stood down the river 
for the usual quarterly target-practice with great guns, and to 
make additional observations of the steaming and steering quali- 
ties of the ship and the effect upon the compass by heeling the 
vessel on different sides. 

We arrived at a suitable place for making these experiments at 
about 11.30 A.M., and at once proceeded to work ship for ascer- 
taining further particulars in regard to the turning powers of the 
ship. The ship described twelve circles around two buoys, which 
were picked up after each complete turn. The circles were made 
under full power, two- thirds, and one-half. The drift angle was 
also computed for each circle. The necessity of knowing this is 
clear, when we remember that a ship's speed is materially reduced 
when turning. The loss of speed is generally attributed to the 
resistance of the rudder, but this cannot account for all the loss. 
A ship in turning necessarily goes more or less sideways, and this 
broadside movement offers great resistance and reduces the speed. 
The drift angle determines how much it is, and thus the entire 
loss of speed can be accounted for. 

We came to anchor at seven p.m. with everything in readiness 
for continuing the experiment. At 6.30 the next morning we 
again got under way and swung ship for compass error, steaming 
around on every point of the compass. These observations could 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. H5 

only be made about two and a balf hours before and after noon, 
and the interval was utilized by having the quarterly target-prac- 
tice. We went to general quarters at 12.30 p.m., and fired three 
rounds from the pivot guns and six from the broadside battery at 
a regulation target, thirteen to fourteen hundred yards distant. 
The best shot was made by James Millmore, second captain of 
No. 8 gun. We resumed the compass observations at 2.15 p.m., 
and finished the second series at 5.15 p.m. The next day was 
cloudy, and we were obliged to wait until Thursday before contin- 
uing the experiment. The ship was then listed over to port in 
the forenoon, and to starboard in the afternoon, thus completing 
the entire set of observations. 

At six p.m. we returned to the harbor, and Captain Weaver 
brought the ship considerably nearer the city than we had ever 
been before. After which the crew had their regular routine 
duties and drills with but little to modify their uniformity. The 
ship was dressed with bunting, rainbow style, three times in the 
month of March, to celebrate foreign national holidays : on March 
14, the anniversary of the birth of the Empress of Brazil and also 
that of the King of Italy, the Italian and Brazilian flags were 
displayed side by side at our main and two national salutes were 
fired at noon ; on the 22d, the birthday of King William, the 
Emperor of G-ermany, and on the 25th, the anniversary of the 
coronation of Dom Pedro, the Emperor of Brazil. The last hap- 
pened on Easter-Sunday, and the ship's appearance dressed with 
bunting seemed especially in harmony with the great Church fes- 
tival, the weather being perfect. 

The mail which arrived on the 17th instant brought the orders 
for the naval cadets to proceed to Annapolis for examination. 
Captain Weaver immediately sent telegraphic orders to Comman- 
der Batcheller to return here with the " Galena," which arrived 
accordingly early on Monday morning, March 19. The naval 
cadets of both ships were all detached on the 22d and took pas- 
sage in the Royal Mail steamer " Minho" for Southampton, whence 



116 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

they proceeded to New York, and arrived at Annapolis about 
the 15th of May, 1883. Messrs. Parsons, Perry, Smith, and 
Beach, of this ship, left with our best wishes for their success. 
They all made a host of friends on board, and we regretted losing 
them very much. These young gentlemen are very seriously af- 
fected by the Congressional legislation of 1882, which enacted that 
only ten of the entire class should be admitted into the service, 
and that all others who should pass their final examination should 
be given one thousand dollars and then mustered out. The ward- 
room officers gave the young gentlemen a farewell breakfast the 
day they left, and although all were pleased with the idea of going 
home, yet they found that after all the " Brooklyn" had been a 
pleasant home for them for eighteen months, and they could not 
leave without regretting the parting from so many true friends. 
The names of the seven young gentlemen who were also detached 
from the " Galena" at the same time are: Messrs. Linnard, Printup, 
Colwell, McKee, Whitham, Bankson. and Donnelly, who left with 
the best wishes of their friends for their future success. 

During March, 1883, the health of the officers and men of 
both the "Brooklyn" and "Galena" was excellent; indeed, this 
has been the experience the whole cruise, except during our last 
visit to Santa Cruz, when a great many suffered with slight colds. 

The officers then had several little gatherings on board and one 
small german, which was particularly enjoyed by those who are 
fond of dancing. 

A VISIT TO A SALADERO. 

The principal items among the exports of Montevideo are products 
of the saladeros, or jerked-beef establishments in this vicinity, 
and as the methods adopted by the " Orientals" are very different 
from those in the United States, a brief account may be interest- 
ing to the reader. These saladeros are situated in the valley be- 
tween the peninsula on which the city is built and the " Cerro," 
and extend along the eastern base of the latter to Cibils's large 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 117 

dry- dock. The saladero we visited is composed of a number of 
buildings, sheds, yards, and cattle-pens, all of which occupy an 
area of about five acres. The cattle were in the corral extending 
around two sides enclosed by a high fence. This corral has a long 
fenced lane, one end of which is closed by a sliding-door raised 
and lowered by pulleys ; inside of this there is a small floored 
slaughter-pen with a platform on two sides, and with a stout hori- 
zontal bar on an opening just opposite the sliding-door. This bar 
has a stout ring and pulley secured at its centre, through which a 
line is rove with a lasso on one end, while the other leads outside 
the pen and is attached to the traces of a horse. 

Upon this occasion fifteen or twenty bulls were driven into the 
slaughter-pen and confined there by lowering the sliding-door. 
The floor was kept wet and slippery, so that when they lassoed a 
bull and attached the horse to the line he was readily hauled up 
with his head close to the centre of the bar. The floor at this 
place was cut out to admit a low, zinc-covered platform-car, the 
floor of which was on a level with the floor of the pen. A man 
with a small two-edged knife stood on a platform opposite the bar, 
and as each bull was hauled up, quickly stabbed it between the 
horns to sever the spinal column, which resulted in instant death 
in every case. The bull dropped on to the car, which was then 
hauled out into a long dressing-shed arranged with shelving paving- 
stones on the right side leading to a gutter, whence the blood ran 
off, and with tables and hooks on the other side. The carcasses 
were thrown on these stones and dressed while lying down. The 
head and tail were cut off, and the hide then skinned off from the 
uppermost side and rolled back to form a mat, on which the meat 
was dressed without soiling any portions. The flesh was removed 
clean from the bones and placed on the tables. The joints and 
bones were all cut out, leaving large slabs of meat. The entrails 
and refuse matter were dragged off to a receptacle in one corner, 
whence they were subsequently carted off. The slabs of meat 
were then sliced in a peculiar manner to form large hide-shaped 



118 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

sheets of exactly even thickness, generally one inch. These 
sheets are formed by slicing with sharp carvers. A slab, say four 
inches thick and about two square feet, is sliced to leave one inch 
thick below and three inches thick on top ; the three-inch slice is 
not severed but thrown back on the table, where it is two inches 
higher than the first part ; the knife then slices ofi* to leave a 
second sheet one inch thick, the two-inch piece is then thrown 
back beyond on the table. This piece is then again sliced, and 
the whole forms one sheet of beef one inch thick, two feet wide, 
and about eight feet long. Great care and skill is necessary to 
obtain thin, even sheets, in order that the meat may be perfectly 
cured. These sheets are then hung upon the hooks to cool, 
whence they are taken to a large tank of brine in the building 
at the end of the dressing-shed. The beef is left in the tank 
for several days, and then piled up, with layers of salt on each 
sheet of beef. This is left for two or three days, when it is 
washed, and then carried out to dry on poles in the sun in a sepa- 
rate yard on the left, and special care is taken that it does not get 
wet. 

This jerked beef is exported to Brazil and Cuba, and serves as 
food for the army and slaves. France also receives a large supply. 
It is of a dirty-yellow color and does not appear very palatable, 
but it is very good. The hides are taken to a building on the 
right of that containing the tanks and treated in the usual manner. 
The blood is run off to waste from the gutter, while all the scraps, 
bones, and refuse matter are gathered and taken to the boiler build- 
ing, the second floor of which is on a level with the above pave- 
ment. This is then emptied into a series of boilers, where it is 
boiled down and converted into tallow. The bones are used as 
fuel for the boilers, and the ashes collected and exported as bone- 
ash for fertilizers. 

The skill and quiet method of the whole series of operations 
won our admiration. Some idea of the extent of these opera- 
tions may be conveyed when we learn that one hundred and thirty- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 119 

five thousand head of cattle were slaughtered in the saladeros 
during the month of February alone. 

MONTEVIDEO AND ITS FIRE DEPARTMENT. 

THE GALLANTRY OF SOME OP THE CREW OF THE "BROOKLYN" AT A 
FIRE ON SHORE. 

The city of Montevideo is one of the handsomest and cleanest 
of cities one will meet on any cruise. The houses are hand- 
somely decorated with Italian art, and though it is all plaster and 
colored wash, yet it certainly does look well. The streets are 
wide, and well paved with square granite blocks and flag side- 
walks, and are drained by the natural slope of the land. The 
dwelling-houses in Montevideo are generally built of one story. 
They have wide ornamental front doors, usually of hard wood, 
which are always provided with a knocker instead of a door-bell. 
These knockers are as a rule quite as effective as our door-bells, 
though whenever we have used them, our first impulse has been 
to hammer like an auctioneer, and we have always been surprised 
at the prompt answer. The door opens upon a wide hall leading 
to a small court, which is not roofed over. The rooms are ar- 
ranged to enclose the court on the sides with their doors opening 
into it. The ceilings are as a rule very high, but no attention 
is paid to their proper ventilation. Twelve and fourteen feet 
stud is quite common, even when the house is an alta, one which 
has two or three floors. The people there have become so much 
accustomed to houses with but one floor that when they do 
occupy an alta they are arranged as our flats, separate families on 
each floor. The interior of the house is generally plainly fur- 
nished, but elegant crystal chandeliers are very much the fashion. 
Stoves and fireplaces are very rare except in the kitchen, and in 
winter the people wear their wraps in-doors instead of having 
their rooms artificially heated. The winters are, however, not 
very severe, though the thermometer frequently falls below the 
freezing-point. 



120 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

This fact and the almost fire-proof nature of their houses gives 
them such immunity from fires that an alarm of fire is a very rare 
event, so much so that they have neglected the organization of a 
regular fire department and have left it as one of the minor duties 
of the serenos (police). The serenos have several old-fashioned 
suction-engines and hose-trucks which can be used in connection 
with the supply from the city water-works, and the crews of men- 
of-war in the harbor are relied upon to save them if a fire gets 
any headway. 

A fire broke out about two p.m. on the 15th of March in a 
stable on Andes Street, in the southern part of the city, which, 
but for the timely arrival of some of our crew, might have proved a 
serious conflagration. Richard "Walsh, bugler ; John Dol an, fire- 
man ; Emil Ziebarth and Charles J. V. Iverson, ordinary seamen ; 
Wm. Sinnott and Harry Forkin, landsmen ; and naval apprentices 
Barrett, Bryan, and Natteford, of the " Brooklyn," were ashore 
on liberty when the alarm was given, and they were the first to 
arrive on the scene. These men at once threw off their blue 
jackets and sailed in to put the fire out in a seamanlike manner. 
Natteford, Ziebarth, and Iverson rushed into the burning stable 
and released the horses, while Dolan, Barrett, and Bryan mounted 
to the roof of the adjoining three-story house, which was directly 
over the seat of the fire, and burning on that side. They pro- 
cured a rope from some of the inmates and sent it down as a 
hauling-line for the hose, which had been brought in the mean 
time by the serenos. They had some difficulty in making them- 
selves understood, but succeeded by gestures in making the aston- 
ished serenos both understand and obey them as recognized leaders. 
Walsh and Forkin assisted in getting the hose up, and Dolan had 
to come down to show them how to couple two sections of hose to 
reach. This was all done very quickly, and the stream of water 
from the engine worked by the serenos was so well directed that 
the house was saved from the flames. The men on the roof then 
gradually fought their way down and into the blazing stable, when 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 121 

they were reinforced by two detachments of sailors from the Ar- 
gentine ironclad "Andes" and the French gunboat " Tactique." 
Our men, however, still had charge at the most critical point in 
the stable, where Forkin and Bryan were fighting the flames with 
a good stream of water, when the roof was observed to be about 
to fall in. This roof was of sheet-iron, supported by wooden 
rafters, and while the serenos were trying to persuade the men to 
look out for themselves, Barrett coolly went in and, with a shout 
to Bryan to " stand from under," knocked down the main support 
and allowed the roof to fall in and smother the flames. 

After Natteford, Ziebarth, and Iverson had released the horses 
they joined Sinnott in removing the furniture from the house, and 
rendered invaluable services. Walsh was everywhere, and was 
recognized by the citizens as if he were the officer in charge. 
The next day the morning papers gave full accounts of the scene, 
lavished praises and thanks to our men for their gallantry and ser- 
vices, and contrasted their acts with the terrified helplessness of 
the serenos in the emergency. No translation could do justice to 
the phraseology used by the Ferro Carril in describing their ad- 
miration of the men on the roof fighting the flames, each de- 
scription of the several daring deeds being interlarded with " Oh, 
those Yankees !" " How reckless !" etc. 

The captain of the port then requested co-operation of the com- 
manders of men-of-war at anchor in the harbor in the event of 
fire in the city and port. The following signal will be made at 
his office in case such assistance should be needed : " In case 
of a fire at night, three rockets will be fired and a red light 
hoisted on the flag-staff at the wharf if it be in port among the 
shipping, a green light for fire in the northern part of the city, and 
a white light if in the southern part of the same. In the event 
of a fire breaking out during the day, the same signals will be 
made by flags, — red flag if in the port, and green or yellow flags 
for the northern or southern parts of the city, respectively." 

Captain Weaver directed that the vessels of this squadron 



122 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

obey this signal if the weather and other circumstances permit, 
and that a detail of twenty men be sent on shore to report to the 
captain of the port whenever the signal shall be made. 

THE NATIONAL SPORT OF SPAIN. 
FULL DESCRIPTION OF A BULL-FIGHT. 

The great national amusement among all Spaniards, and in gen- 
eral Spanish-speaking people, is bull-fighting, which to other 
people is a most revolting and barbarous custom. It is attended 
by all classes, ages, and sexes, high- and low-born, old and young, 
males and females. In Spain and the Spanish -American countries 
it is principally practised. In Peru, notably in Lima and Callao, 
this sight is not so revolting, as the most sickening feature, the 
killing of the horses, does not occur. There the horses are given 
some chance and are not blindfolded, but are trained to avoid the 
bull, which they do so skilfully that they are seldom or never hurt ; 
but in Spain and Uruguay the sight may be witnessed in all its 
horrors. In those countries the poor horses are blindfolded (gen- 
erally in one eye, which is always kept towards the bull), and are 
led up to the bull all unconscious of their danger until the sharp 
horns open an ugly hole, from which their life's blood pours in 
torrents. The bull-fights in Spain are the most revolting in the 
world, probably as the bulls of that country are more ferocious 
than any others, and often nine horses are seen at one time 
stretched on the ground the victims of a savage bull. In Madrid 
and Barcelona occur the most celebrated fights in Spain, and at a 
certain fight in the latter city not many years ago the people were 
so excited that they had their valuable carriage-horses brought into 
the ring, only to be torn and rent by the infuriated beasts. In 
Lisbon the bull-fights are very amusing, being devoid of all the 
sickening horrors, as they simply play with the bull and do not 
kill him. His horns are sawed off so that he can't hurt any one. 
The capeadores and banderilleros are the actors in these fights. 
In Montevideo they occasionally have amateur fights, which are 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 123 

more or less amusing, as the bull's horns being thickly padded he 
can hurt neither man nor beast. He is always killed, however, 
the amateur matador being coached by a veteran. In Lima on a 
certain day a tilt-board was brought into the ring and on each end 
was a man. It was very laughable to see the bull charge for the 
man whose end of the board was down and which was instantly 
raised by the other man, allowing the bull to pass under. Once 
the bull turned quickly and caught his man down, but fortu- 
nately did not hurt him, and before he could do so his attention 
was drawn away by the bright shawls of the capeadores. Sun- 
days and feast-days are the days generally selected for this amuse- 
ment, and for a couple of hours before the commencement of the 
fight the streets are lined with carriages and trams (horse-cars) 
filled with people on their way to La Plaza de Toros (Bull-Ring). 
For several days before the fight the day and hour of la corrida 
de toros (the bull-fight) is posted in the principal streets and plazas, 
giving the names of the matadores or espadas (the men who do 
the killing), the number of bulls to be killed, and the price of 
admission, which in Montevideo is one dollar and a half on the 
shady side, and one dollar on the sunny side, but when Spanish 
bulls are to be fought the prices are raised respectively to three 
dollars and one dollar and a half. 

Although most of us had seen a number of bull-fights, our curi- 
osity was aroused by a new feature in the amusement, a fight be- 
tween a tiger and a bull ; so accordingly several of us from this 
vessel availed ourselves of the opportunity, and on April 8 started 
out for the bull-ring. A ride in one of the trams of the Tram 
via del Centro of about fifty minutes took us within three blocks 
of the ring. The ride alone well repaid us, as it took us through 
a beautiful country, the roads of which were lined with the hand- 
some quintas (country-seats) of the rich. On arriving at the 
ring we saw a red flag over it with this inscription " Hoy toro," 
meaning literally " Bull-fight to-day." 

Having paid our entrance-fee, we passed in and took our seats. 



124 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The bull-ring is a massive circular structure of solid masonry 
without a roof, resembling the ancient Roman amphitheatres. It 
has a seating capacity for about five thousand people. The seats, 
stone steps, are hard and uncomfortable, but for the small price 
of ten cents cushions can be hired. The inner ring, where the 
bull is fought, is about three hundred feet in diameter, and is en- 
closed by a wooden fence about four feet high to prevent the bull 
from getting within the outer ring, where the bull-fighters retire 
when closely pressed. Occasionally an active bull leaps this bar- 
rier, and then is witnessed a lively scramble for safety. The au- 
dience are safe, as the lower seats are about four feet from the 
ground, and are further protected by roping. A guard of soldiers 
preserves order, and one of the government bands furnishes music. 
At several intervals in the wooden fence enclosing the inner ring 
are openings to allow a hard-pressed fighter to escape to the outer 
ring, and these are overlapped by shields of wood just far enough 
from the fence to allow a man to squeeze in. These shields have 
a bull's-eye and ring, similar to a target, painted on them in 
white, so that the men can readily distinguish their retreat. 
Boxes in rear of the seats are covered with a roof, and in the one 
directly opposite the enclosure from which the bulls enter the 
ring sits the President of Uruguay and other officials. 

Our first sight on entering the ring was a large iron cage, about 
twenty feet long by ten feet wide, in which were a bull and a tiger, 
they being separated by a partition of boards. On this particular 
day three bulls were to be killed before the combat between the 
bull and the tiger was to take place. At last the hour of the 
fight, three P.M., arrived, the band struck up a march, the gates 
were thrown open, the grand cavalcade entered and marched 
around the ring and out, each man saluting as he passed the 
president. First came the matadores, then the picadores, banderil- 
leros, capeadores, and a chulo. The picadores are mounted on 
horses, have their legs heavily padded for protection from the 
bull's horns, and are armed with long poles having short spikes in 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 125 

them, with which they torture the bull. The banderilleros are 
the men who plant a sort of dart (called a banderilla), about two 
feet long, in the bull's neck to assist in torturing him. These 
banderillas are covered with gayly-colored paper and have sharp 
barbed spikes in them. The capeadores each have bright-colored 
shawls or cloaks in order to attract and worry the bulls. A chulo 
consists of three horses harnessed abreast, dragging a large hook, 
used to drag out dead bodies. The bull-fighters are dressed in knee- 
breeches, gayly-trimmed jackets, and have their hair done up in a 
long queue. Suddenly a bugle near the president's box sounded, 
the picadores (generally two) and the capeadores (generally six) 
entered the ring, and the first stage of the fight was about to com- 
mence. A gate was opened and the first bull appeared. He was 
quite a ferocious one, and as, according to custom, he had been well 
tortured until he was frantic with rage, he at once charged for the 
first object that met his eyes, which happened to be the tiger in the 
cage. He struck the cage a heavy blow, which shook it well and 
made us feel rather uneasy for fear he would knock it down and thus 
liberate the tiger. Happily, it stood that and subsequent charges 
of the other bulls. Now the sport commenced. The capeadores 
flung their bright cloaks in the bull's face, thus attracting him 
away from the cage, and he dashed madly after first one and then 
the other, but they always skilfully avoided him, though some- 
times he would press them so closely that they would have to 
retreat behind the shields. Occasionally a shawl would catch on 
his horns, when he would stand and stamp on it, and it was diffi- 
cult to draw him away from it. The picadores now began to tor- 
ment him by pricking him with their lances. They would drive 
their horses up to him, they being unconscious of their danger on 
account of being blindfolded. Several times the bull charged the 
horses, but the picadores warded him off with their lances. At last 
he saw his opportunity, and with lowering head he charged one of 
the horses and drove one of his sharp horns deep into his breast. 
This brought down the house, and cries of " Bravo, toro !" (Well 

9 



126 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

done, bull !) were heard on all sides. We looked upon it in a dif- 
ferent light, for it was a sickening spectacle to witness the poor 
brute tottering around the ring with his life's blood pouring from 
the gaping wound. The horse was at once led out of the ring, 
and was in all probability soon released from his sufferings. After 
all, it is probably about as easy a death as a horse could die. 
These horses are not valuable ones, in fact, they are generally very 
poor ones, so their loss is not missed. Another horse was at once 
furnished the dismounted picador, who was loudly applauded for 
his success in getting his horse killed. The bull now charged 
another rider, dismounted him, killed his horse, which fell on 
him, but before the bull could injure him his attention was 
drawn away by the ever-active capeadores, and he was extracted 
from his perilous position by his comrades. 

A bugle announced the second stage in the fight. The remain- 
ing picador withdrew, and several banderilleros entered the ring. 
Each man was armed with two of the sharp-barbed banderillas, 
and pointing them towards the bull invited him to charge, which 
he promptly did, the banderillero skilfully planting his banderillas 
into his neck, at the same time nimbly jumping aside to avoid the 
bull's horns. This operation was repeated until about six ban- 
derillas were hanging in the bull's neck. They seemed to make 
him more frantic than ever, and he bellowed and tore around the 
ring and endeavored to shake the banderillas out, but being barbed 
they kept in place. The bull by this time having been worked up 
sufficiently, the bugle again sounded, and the third and final stage 
in the fight commenced. The banderilleros withdrew. It will be 
observed that the capeadores remain in the ring all the time in 
order to attract the attention of the bull from a closely-pressed 
comrade. The matador now entered. In his right hand he 
carried a long, straight, double-edged sword, and in his left a 
bright-red cloak. Bowing to the president, he advanced to the 
assault and flung his cloak in the bull's face, being assisted by the 
capeadores. On came the bull, but the matador nimbly stepped 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 127 

aside, which he did several times, in order, probably, to get ac- 
customed to the bull's movements. At last he took his position, 
and firm as a rock he stood, whilst he held out his cloak to invite 
attack, and steadied his sword for the death-blow. Again the bull 
advanced, and just as it appeared as if he would be transfixed by 
the bull's horns, he quickly stepped aside to the left, and with 
sure aim drove his sharp sword to the hilt into the bull just 
behind the fore-shoulder. It was a fatal stroke. The bull stood 
still for a moment, whilst the ground turned crimson with his 
blood, then tottered and fell dead. A deafening cheer greeted the 
victorious matador, which he graciously acknowledged by bowing 
to his admirers. The chulo entered, its hook was hooked into a 
strap around the bull's horns, and he was dragged out amidst the 
music of the band and the shouts of the audience. The ring was 
now cleared for the next bull. He and the subsequent one were 
not as savage as the first, and afforded very little amusement. 
Neither of them would attack the horses, so we were spared that 
sickening sight. 

During the fight with this second bull cries of " Fuego ! 
fuego !" (Fire ! fire !) were heard on all sides. We could not 
at first understand the meaning of this till a banderillero armed 
with a banderilla, to all appearances like the others, approached 
the bull and threw it into his neck. Smoke instantly appeared 
where it struck, followed by a small explosion, apparently under 
the bull's skin. It was probably some sort of fulminate attached 
to the banderilla. This aroused the bull for a few moments, and 
he charged right and left, but he soon quieted down, and the 
matador was called in to finish him. Neither he nor the last 
matador were as skilful as the first one, and each had to make 
several thrusts before they inflicted a fatal wound. Sometimes a 
bull is so poor that he has to be lassooed and dragged out of the 
ring. The cage proved to be an obstacle to the sport, as it ob- 
structed the view, and the bulls invariably retreated to it and 
ran round and round it, making it difficult to get at them. The 



128 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

bull in the cage and the tiger, attracted by the noise, the bright 
robes, and the smell of blood, became uneasy and restless, and 
doubtless desired to get out and have their share of the fun. 
Preparations were then made for the fight between the bull and 
the tiger. 

The tiger was what is known as a Paraguayan tiger. He was 
more like a leopard, being marked similar to that animal, and was 
a beautiful beast, and was about five feet long. A number of men 
entered the ring and commenced pulling out the boards that sepa- 
rated the two animals. This seemed to displease the bull, and as 
the lower boards were about half-way out he charged and broke 
them and then made a rush for the tiger. Every one thought 
that it was all up for the tiger, but quick as lightning he slipped 
between the bull's horns and over his back, being assisted some- 
what by a toss of the latter's head. This was repeated several 
times, but in each case the tiger came out unhurt. Not so with 
the bull, for several times the tiger would mount his head, get his 
ear between his sharp teeth, and at the same time make some ugly 
scratches on his forehead with his hind paws. The tiger acted 
entirely on the defensive, and it was only when he was attacked 
that he would strike back. Once or twice when attacked he would 
crouch so low that the bull's horns would pass over him. His 
coming out of the combat unhurt showed his ability, like all 
animals, to defend himself and avoid danger. It is needless to 
say that had the bull succeeded in once getting his horns into him 
there would have been no more tiger. After about fifteen min- 
utes of this decidedly tame combat neither animal seemed inclined 
to molest the other and they retreated to opposite sides of the 
cage, and doubtless would have remained there for an indefinite 
period if they had been let alone. The bull bellowed and plainly 
showed that he had had enough of the tiger's teeth and claws. 
The attendants now tried to stir them up by poking them with 
sticks and by holding a bright cloak near the tiger to induce the 
bull to charge, but they preferred to let each other severely alone. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 129 

As a final effort and in response to the call of " fuego," a ban- 
derillero threw one of the explosive banderillas into the bull's 
neck. The smoke and explosion somewhat frightened both ani- 
mals and induced the bull to make one more charge, which the 
tiger, as heretofore, avoided. After that nothing would move the 
animals, and everybody being tired of the farce it was decided to 
separate them and bring the scene to an end. This proved as 
amusing as the fight. The tiger's cage was brought into the ring, 
its door raised and placed against the door of the big cage, which 
was then raised and the tiger was invited to enter his home, but 
he was in the opposite corner of the cage and had no idea of 
moving. A man then slipped a lasso inside the cage, slipped it 
over the bull's horns, and leading it towards the tiger, hauled the 
bull in that direction. The tiger at once retreated to the other 
corner, but still would not enter his cage. Then the lasso was let 
go and attempts were made to slip in the boards in order to sepa- 
rate the animals, but this enraged the bull, so he charged and broke 
the boards, so they had to haul him over again with the lasso, and 
then by keeping it fast the boards were slipped in position and 
bull and tiger were finally separated. We feared that by some 
accident the tiger might get loose, and several talked of climbing 
over the roof of the boxes in our rear in case that should happen, 
but our minds were somewhat relieved by noticing a couple of 
soldiers, said to be dead-shots, standing ready with loaded rifles. 
We soon afterwards left, leaving the attendants still making unsuc- 
cessful efforts to get the tiger into his own cage. How long they 
worked we know not. We returned to the city for dinner rather 
disgusted with the whole affair. 

During April, 1883, we experienced a number of " pamperos," 
in one of which most all the men-of-war in the harbor got up 
steam to guard against the possibility of dragging. We, however, 
only found it necessary to let go our port sheet-anchor and to 
veer to a long scope of chain on our bowers. These " pamperos" 



130 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

are usually accompanied by fine clear weather overhead, and are 
only specially disagreeable in that they cause such a rough sea 
that it cuts off communication with the shore. 

The harbor, or, strictly speaking, the roadstead of Montevideo, 
is shoal and very much exposed to southeast and southwest winds, 
which raise a high sea very suddenly. 

The Uruguayan legislature very wisely passed a law appropri- 
ating ten million dollars for improvements to be made in the 
harbor. The nature and extent of these improvements are not 
specified in the law, and it is doubtful when the work will be 
commenced. However, it is at least gratifying to know that the 
authorities are beginning to see the importance of improving the 
port, which in the natural course of events must become one of 
the great commercial emporiums of the world. 

Cibil's dry-dock is being constantly improved, and the channel 
was deepened one foot during the years 1881 and 1882, so 
that seventeen feet is the least depth in the channel at low-water. 
A number of vessels were repaired in this dock, among which 
were the Italian ram " Scylla" and both vessels of the Uruguayan 
navy. 

In April, 1882, the American whaling bark " Ida" came in the 
harbor, which recalled the by-gone days of blubber and bone, and 
as she passed by and gracefully dipped her colors, we almost 
thought we heard the lookout's cheery hail of " There she blows!" 
which would bring all hands on deck in intense excitement to see 
" where away," and prepare for chase. 

This is the only American arrival in contrast with the fleet of 
iron and steel European steamers constantly visiting this port. 
The American whaler was in her day the best. Let us hope that 
when we do enter the lists again for the commerce of the world, 
our steamers will stand first in every desirable quality. 

The only recent improvement in the United States navy is a 
general order from the Honorable Secretary of the Navy by which 
the titles of master and midshipman are abolished, the former to 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 131 

be known as lieutenants of a junior grade, and the latter as ensigns 
of a junior grade. There is no change in the uniform or pay of 
these officers, but our midshipmen will receive regular commis- 
sions as ensigns of the junior grade, and thus obtain proper recog- 
nition of their age and merit in the service. 

EIVER PLATE NAVAL NOTES. 

In April, 1883, the English navy was represented at Monte- 
video by the "Amethyst," " Rifleman," " Rambler," and " Sylvia." 
The first two were at anchor at Colonia. The " Sylvia" was on 
surveying duty, and was recently employed in the Straits of Ma- 
gellan as one of the Transit of Venus parties. The " Firefly" sailed 
for England to go out of commission. The ironclad " Constance" 
and gunboat " Gannett" touched here on their way to and from 
the Pacific respectively. 

The French navy had the (t Segond" and " Tactique," while the 
gunboat " Kerguelen" visited the port about the first of the month 
on her way to the Pacific Station. 

The German gunboat " Albatross," Italian ram " Scylla," the 
Spanish gunboat "Africa," and the Argentine monitor "Los 
Andes'' did not move from their anchorage since our arrival. The 
Brazilian ironclad " Sete de Setembro" recently made a short 
cruise down the river. The Argentine torpedo-boat " Maipu" 
and the Paraguayan gunboat " Pirapo" arrived in the harbor on 
May 15, 1883. The " Pirapo" is the only vessel of the Para- 
guayan navy. She was formerly the Italian gunboat " Constance," 
and on arriving here saluted all the men-of-war with five guns 
each. 

Paraguay adjoins the northwestern boundary of Uruguay, and 
is famous in history for its gallant defence against the allied forces 
of Brazil, Uruguay, and the Argentine Confederation in the event- 
ful Paraguayan war from 1865 to 1870. Paraguay lost one hun- 
dred and seventy thousand men in battle and by disease in these 
five years of war, and the effect is even felt at present in the great 



132 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

lack of males in the population. One of the most memorable naval 
battles was an attempt to capture a fleet of Brazilian ironclads at 
anchor in the Paraguay River near Concepcion. The Paraguay- 
ans drifted down the stream on trees, by which they surprised and 
gained possession of the deck of one of the vessels but could not 
get below, as the iron shutters on the casemate ports and hatches 
were closed. The other Brazilian vessels slipped their cables and 
finally shelled the Paraguayans on the deck of their surprised 
vessel and drove them off. 

President Lincoln had some difficulty with Lopez previous to 
this war, arising from a misunderstanding with the United States 
and Paraguayan Steamship Company, founded by some enterpris- 
ing citizens of Philadelphia ; this was finally settled amicably 
by commissioners appointed for the purpose. Those who wish 
further information as to the history of this country are referred 
to the Hon. C. A. Washburn's " History of Paraguay," published 
in Boston in 1871. Since the death of Lopez, the great Para- 
guayan dictator, the country has been peacefully developing its 
own resources. The yerba mate is produced there almost exclu- 
sively, and forms the chief article of export. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 133 



CHAPTER IX. 

Arrival of Commodore Phelps to take Command of South Atlantic Squadron 
— Inspection of the "Brooklyn" — Highly Creditable Performance of the 
Ship's Company in the Examination by New Commander-in-Chief— Time 
made in Different Exercises — Efficiency of the Ship — Departure of the 
" Galena" for the United States — Revised List of the Officers of the 
"Brooklyn" — Ordered to Madagascar — Departure for the Cape of Good 
Hope — The Cruise across the South Atlantic — Catching Albatross — Arrival 
at Cape Town — Full Description of Cape Town and Cape Colony — History 
of Cape Colony — The Renowned Docks at Cape Town — General Liberty for 
the Ship's Company — The "Brooklyn" in the Dry-Dock — Description of a 
Dinner-Party given by the Officers' Mess of the famous Highland Regiment, 
Princess Louise's Own — The African Diamond-Fields — History of Dia- 
mond Mines in South Africa — Penalty for Illicit Diamond Buying — De- 
parture of the " Brooklyn" for Madagascar — Events of the Voyage in the 
Indian Ocean. 

Sunday, June 3, Commodore T. S. Phelps, U. S. N., arrived 
at Montevideo after an exceedingly annoying quarantine of eleven 
days at Flores Island. The health of the steamer " Valparaiso," 
in which the commodore came from Liverpool, was exceptionally 
good, but these quarantine regulations were, though useless, rigidly 
enforced, simply because the steamer had come from Rio. The 
commodore and Mrs. Phelps took up their quarters at the Hotel 
Oriental. 

Tuesday, June 5, the commodore, accompanied by his son, 
Lieutenant T. S. Phelps, came on board at 11.30 a.m. and for- 
mally assumed command of the United States naval force on this 
station. The reception was as prescribed by regulations : the crew 
at quarters, on port side, the marine guard drawn up at " present 
arms," while the drum gave two ruffles and the band played 
" Hail to the Chief" as he stepped over the side. The officers, 
in full-dress uniform, were ranged on the starboard side of the 



134 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

quarter-deck, and each was presented by Captain Weaver as he 
walked aft. The commodore's broad pennant was then broken at 
the main and a salute of eleven guns fired from the saluting bat- 
tery on the forecastle. This completed the ceremony, after which 
the commodore issued Squadron Order No. 1, assuming command 
of the South Atlantic Station, and Order No. 2, in which he an- 
nounced his staff. Both of these orders were read on the Sunday 
following at general muster. 

Wednesday the commodore visited the French admiral, and the 
usual salutes were exchanged. The commanding officers of the 
other men-of-war in the harbor also called to pay their respects, as 
well as the French admiral, who returned the commodore's visit. 
The commodore returned all these visits in the course of the same 
week. 

Thursday, June 7, the " Brooklyn" was thoroughly inspected 
as to efficiency prescribed in ordnance instructions. The in- 
spection consisted of a thorough examination of the ship. This 
was followed by a review of the battalion at dress parade, the 
pioneers on the poop, marines on the right, two companies of 
sailors as infantry, and one as artillery with two guns. After the 
parade the companies marched off, and each was inspected by the 
commodore and staff in the different exercises. The artillery 
formed on the topgallant forecastle, and went through the details 
of the drill with creditable accuracy. The evolution of dismount- 
ing was exceedingly well done, and elicited the decided approval 
of Captain Weaver and all who witnessed it. The second com- 
pany was drilled as infantry, and executed the details of the drill 
of the manual of arms with great precision, especially that of 
"loading and firing kneeling." The marines won great credit ; 
the silent drill being especially commendable. 

Immediately after these drills all boats were called away " armed 
and equipped for an expedition for cutting out." The average 
time required for all the boats to be ready was three minutes and 
forty-two seconds, the second cutter being first, in two minutes. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 135 

There was no evolution of the flotilla, but, upon returning, each 
boat was inspected, and all the equipments and armaments were 
found to be at hand and in good order. 

After hoisting the boats all hands were piped to dinner, and at 
1.20 p.m. the inspection was resumed by clearing ship for action. 
This required seven minutes and fifty seconds. Upon going to 
general quarters the divisions were reported ready in the following 
times : 

Minutes. Seconds. 

First division 1 27 

Second " . . 1 25 

Third " . 1 02 

Fourth " 1 01 

Navigator's division .1 00 

Powder " 1 50 

Engineer's " . • 2 00 

Surgeon's " 2 00 

Marines 2 30 

The third division was then exercised at shifting a 9-inch gun, 
and this required one minute and forty seconds, and then two guns 
on the quarter-deck were transported to opposite sides of the deck 
from fire to fire in one minute and forty-five seconds. 

• Seconds. 

To shift breeching 15 

To shift trucks 8 

To shift tackles 20 

To run out, tackles shot away 19 

The pivot guns were then exercised at shifting from side to 
side. The 8-inch rifle was shifted from side to side in eighty sec- 
onds, and the 60-pounder in thirty-three seconds from fire to fire. 
The " Brooklyn's" 8-inch, however, owing to the short slide, requires 
three shifts, and cannot be swung around in one, which, therefore, 
necessitates three times as much time than if fitted with a slide of 
proper length. 

A torpedo was exploded from the steam-launch and also from 



136 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

the forward starboard boom. The latter was a very pretty sight, 
as it threw up a column of water about fifty feet high. 

The powder division also proved highly efficient under the com- 
mand of Ensign H. P. Huse, who was ordered to the ship from the 
" Galena" by Commodore Phelps the day after he assumed com- 
mand. 

The men were catechised as to their knowledge of the guns, 
and evinced very good training. The boarders were also drilled, 
supported by riflemen, and all the other evolutions usual to these 
exercises were creditably performed, showing a very marked 
improvement since the last inspection. 

The " Galena" was inspected on Saturday, June 9, and also 
passed a very creditable inspection. It would be difficult to draw 
comparisons, as where one excelled in some details the other sur- 
passed her in others, and both were very good. 

The commodore expressed himself highly gratified as to the 
cleanliness and efficient condition in which he found both vessels. 

Tuesday, June 12, we got under way at 8.30 a.m., and steamed 
down the river for target-practice with great guns. In this we 
were also fortunate, as the practice was excellent. William Bske, 
captain of forecastle, fired the first shot from the 60-pounder rifle 
and struck the staff of the target just at the .water-line ; the shot 
passed clean through and exploded afterwards. It was a perfect 
shot and completely demolished the target. The wreck of the 
target was recovered and another one rigged, but this shared a 
similar fate, being carried away by a shell fired from No. 8 gun by 
Ronald Ford, landsman. The other shots were all very good, and 
this was the best practice we ever had. 

After this we anchored in the river, and continued the exercises 
by firing with the machine-guns, the Hotchkiss rifle, and small- 
arms. That night we were totally surprised by being suddenly 
aroused by the signal to general quarters. The men rushed on 
deck with their hammocks, and all the gun divisions fired primers 
and were ready for second fire in remarkably quick time. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 137 

The next day we got under way and returned to our former 
anchorage without any further incident. After the return all 
hands were allowed a month's pay and general liberty in detach- 
ments of about thirty men at a time. 

During the months of May and June we joined in dressing 
ship and saluting on the following foreign holidays : May 24, the 
birthday of the Queen of England ; May 25, the independence 
of the Spanish- American republics ; June 3, the birthday of the 
Queen of Italy ; and on June 20, the coronation day of the Queen 
of England. 

Thursday, June 21, we received an official visit from the Uru- 
guayan Minister of War and Marine, with the captain of the 
port and a very numerous staff, who wore most brilliant uniforms 
and created a very fine impression during their short stay on 
board. These distinguished gentlemen made this visit in return 
to that which Commodore Phelps and his staff paid to His Ex- 
cellency President Santos the day before at his official residence 
in Montevideo. The visitors were received on board by Commo- 
dore Phelps, Captain Weaver, and the commodore's personal staff. 
The marine guard was in full-dress uniform and made a very fine 
appearance, as usual, when they came to " present arms" as the 
distinguished party came over the gangway. The commodore 
then escorted the Minister of War to the cabin, where they were 
followed by the rest of the distinguished party. In the cabin 
mutual expressions of regard were exchanged, congratulating each 
other upon the prosperity which both republics are enjoying, and 
the friendly relations which have always existed between them. 
The party left at 2.30 p.m., and when their boat was well clear of 
the ship we fired a salute of seventeen guns, with the Uruguayan 
flag at the fore. 

Lieutenant A. M. Knight was detached from this ship the same 
day, and ordered back to the " Galena." He was ordered to this 
ship temporarily last January, just before we sailed for Santa Cruz 
the second time. He was the junior watch officer, and during the 



138 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

six months we had the pleasure of his company he made a host 
of friends, and all were sorry he left. 

Sunday, June 24, Fleet Pay-Clerk B. W. Goldsborough was 
detached from this ship and ordered home, his appointment 
having been revoked at his own request. He has his degree as 
doctor of medicine and surgery from the University of Virginia, 
but his health was very delicate and he was greatly benefited by 
this cruise. His duties as fleet pay-clerk necessitated his living 
ashore with Admiral Crosby while we were on the Transit of 
Venus expedition, and while there he devoted himself to the 
practice of his profession in the hospitals at Montevideo. He 
served as a volunteer assistant to Dr. Fleury, the most eminent 
surgeon in the city, and he thus had some golden opportunities 
for practising his chosen profession. He was uniformly successful 
in every case he had, and gave promise of a most successful career 
of usefulness. Dr. Goldsborough was very much beloved by both 
the officers and men, and we all regret being deprived of his com- 
pany the rest of the cruise. He sailed in the Lamport & Holt 
steamer " Maskelyn" for Liverpool, and from thence to New 
York, whence he went to his home in Cambridge, Maryland. 

Monday, June 25, the " Galena" got under way and went down 
the river for exercise and to determine heeling error and tactical 
diameter. She returned on Wednesday, June 27. 

The Fourth of July was observed by dressing ship with mast- 
head flags, in which all the men-of-war in harbor joined, and by 
firing a salute of twenty-one guns at noon, which was also done 
by the fort on shore and the French flag-ship " Minerve." The 
English ship " Amethyst" did not fire a salute, as she uses her 
heavy guns for that purpose, and the harbor regulations prohibit 
the firing of these guns inside of a line from the Point to the 
Cerro. Our genial minister, Hon. W. Williams, had a large re- 
ception at the United States Legation on shore. Mrs. Phelps, 
Mrs. Chaplain Royce, Mrs. Russell, Mrs. Howard, and Mrs. 
Crocker assisted Mrs. Williams in receiving their callers, among 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 139 

whom were Commodore Phelps, Captain Weaver, and most of the 
officers of this squadron, while all the members of the diplomatic 
corps, and nearly all of the very few Americans in town, called 
during the afternoon. The Fourth of July is well known in all 
these South American countries, and such observances of the day 
serve to keep up the cordial relations existing between the x\meri- 
can republics. In the evening Mr. W. D. Evans gave an immense 
banquet at his quinta in the suburbs of the city. This banquet 
was a magnificent entertainment. The table was set for sixty per- 
sons in the pavilion of his house. The decorations were very 
rich, and the dinner was all that an epicure could desire. It 
was essentially democratic in general tone, and our distinguished 
minister, the Hon. W. Williams, made a stirring speech, than 
which nothing could be more truly representative of our people at 
home. 

At three p.m., July 5, the U. S. S. " G-alena" got under way 
and steamed out of the harbor for home. As she passed by we 
manned the rigging and gave three rousing cheers, to which she 
responded with a will. Her men threw their caps overboard in 
great glee, and several enterprising enthusiasts took pigeons and 
roosters aloft with them to carry their farewell tokens ashore. 
During this time our band played " Home, Sweet Home," which 
must have sounded in harmony with their feelings after such a 
long, dreary absence from those most dear. All hands were on 
deck to see the graceful ship steam out, and watch the streaming 
homeward-bound pennant, four hundred feet long, until she was 
fairly hull down to seaward. W. H. Knoblesdorf, C. P. Gibbons, 
J. I. Hanshe, and E. A. Shaw, four of our naval apprentices, 
Daniel Shelly, ordinary seaman, and Robert Lee, landsman, were 
transferred to the " Galena" a few hours before she sailed, while 
we received F. A. Richardson, landsman, and William Lally, pri- 
vate marine, from the "Galena." The "Galena" stopped at 
Rahia, and then proceeded to the United States. She made a very 
fine cruise, having spent two years out of the three in the Medi- 



140 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

terranean, and having had very easy duty on this station, while 
we did the work. 

We dressed ship on the 9th of July, the anniversary of the 
ratification of the constitution of the Argentine Republic, on July 
14, the national fete day of the French republic, being the anniver- 
sary of the storming of the Bastille, and on the 18th of July, the 
anniversary of the adoption of the constitution of Uruguay, on each 
of which occasions we fired national salutes of twenty-one guns. 

The weather during July was about as bad as can be imagined. 
It rained in torrents a great deal of the time, and for the remain- 
der it blew heavy gales, and necessitated veering chain and letting 
go the sheet-anchor. 

REVISED LIST OF OFFICERS OF THE "BROOKLYN." 

Commodore T. S. Phelps, commander-in-chief of the U. S. 
naval force on the South Atlantic Station. 

Captain A. W. Weaver, commanding. 

Lieutenant-Commander G-. E. Wingate, executive. 

Lieutenant E. W. Watson, navigator. 

Lieutenants W. H. Beehler, H. 0. Handy, T. S. Phelps, 
George A. Calhoun, and J. J. Hunker. 

Ensigns H. McL. P. Huse, J. Hood, C. S. Ripley, James B. 
Cahoon, John A. Bell, and T. S. Snowden. 

Medical Inspector C. H. Burbank, Passed Assistant Surgeons 
H. M. Martin and J. M. Steel. 

Chief Engineer W. W. Dungan, Passed Assistant Engineer B. 
C. Growing, and Assistant Engineer S. H. Leonard. 

Paymaster W. Goldsborough and Pay-Clerk T. Gr. Dawson. 

Captain of Marines L. E. Fagan and Second Lieutenant of 
Marines S. L. Jackson. 

Chaplain A. L. Royce. 

Boatswain Hallowell Dickenson. 

Carpenter J. S. Waltemeyer. 

Sailmaker J. T. Bailey. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 141 

During August and September we remained at Montevideo to 
refit preparatory to our cruise to Madagascar. In sending down 
the topgallant-masts at exercise on the 20th of August the main- 
topmast trestle-trees were discovered to be broken, and when sent 
down the fracture was found to be of some years' standing. Our 
efficient carpenter's gang made new ones, but for two weeks the 
ship looked somewhat dismantled with the main-topsail yard on 
forward edge of maintop and main-topmast housed. 

The " Almirante Brown," an Argentine man-of-war, arrived 
on August 21, and her commander, Commodore B. S. Cordero, 
called the next day, which visit Commodore Phelps returned on 
the 23d, on both which occasions the customary salutes were 
exchanged. 

On August 25 we dressed ship to celebrate the Uruguayan in- 
dependence day, and that evening there was a special performance 
of Italian opera at Solis Theatre, at which all the most distin- 
guished people of the city were present. President Santos and 
his staff in full-dress uniform occupied the centre boxes, to which 
Captain Weaver and other commanding officers were invited, and 
sumptuously entertained at a banquet in the foyer ; at the festivi- 
ties of the following day Commodore Phelps, Captain Weaver, 
and the personal staff, in full-dress uniform, were present at the 
special " Te Deum," and marched in the procession from the ca- 
thedral to the Government House. On September 7 dressed ship 
again, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns for the national 
independence of Brazil. 

The " Nipsic" arrived on August 30, and on September 6 En- 
sign F. Swift and Naval Cadets R. C. Alexander, C. F. Webster, 
and R. B. Higgins were transferred to this ship. 

August 24 a gang of thirty-four calkers came off and com- 
menced to calk the ship outside. The work was continued, ex- 
cepting on Sundays and stormy days, until finished, on September 
12, the outsides being thoroughly calked from the water-line up 
to the rail. On the 12th and part of the 13th we took in two 

10 



142 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

hundred and thirty-four tons of coal, and also received stores for 
our cruise to Africa. 

On September 25 we unmoored and steamed to the outer 
offing at Montevideo. In heaving in another shackle was found 
to be opening, and we barely managed to get the anchor catted 
before it gave way. This is the third time the shackles have 
opened, and we were very fortunate to have secured the anchor. 
A moderate gale sprang up during that night from the southeast, 
which caused a very rough sea and delayed our departure until 
the next day. While waiting for the gale to subside Mr. Evans 
came off in his tug with three large beautiful bouquets for the 
commander-in-chief, Captain Weaver, and the wardroom officers, 
as a farewell compliment, which was very much appreciated. The 
mail orderly was the last person to come on board ; he came off 
in Mr. Evans's tug, and had to be hoisted on board by a whip from 
the main yard-arm. Sergeant Eakins is so much of a soldier that 
he afforded considerable amusement to the " salts" in the port 
gangway as he endeavored to maintain his rigid soldierly bearing 
under such impossible circumstances. The mail had arrived that 
morning from Rio by the Pacific mail steamer " Valparaiso," which 
brought us dates from New York up to the 23d of August. 

We got under way at eleven a.m. the next day, September 27, 
and steamed down the river to below Flores Island, where we 
anchored for the quarterly target-practice. Two small single targets 
were rigged out from the foretop-mast studding-sail booms, at 
which every man in the ship fired from three to five rounds from 
the Hotchkiss platforms with the Hotchkiss magazine-rifles, — new 
model. This practice was very fine : the bull's-eye was riddled. 
During that night we went to general quarters, " lash and carry," 
the gun divisions being ready for first fire in one minute and fifty 
seconds, and for second fire in four minutes and forty-five seconds. 
At 9.30 the next day we had torpedo drill, at which we exploded a 
10-pound exercise torpedo from the starboard forward boom, and a 
100-pound ship's spar-torpedo from the port boom. The shock re- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 143 

minded us of the " Mozart" collision, while the column of water 
was a beautiful sight to all except those who did not have time to 
get from under. The spar was carried away, though the sleeve re- 
mained intact, and is ready for further service. We got under way 
immediately after this exercise and steamed down the river. After 
dinner we went to general quarters again, and exercised at target- 
practice with the port battery. The ship was manoeuvred around 
the target, and six rounds fired at a regulation target at a distance 
varying from one thousand to fifteen hundred yards. The practice 
was only tolerable, and is not to be compared with that of the pre- 
vious quarter. The wind was across the line of fire most of the 
time and the ship was rolling considerably, which made the practice 
much more difficult than hitherto. After the target-practice all 
boats were called away, " armed and equipped for distant service ;" 
the boats were all ready in four minutes and fifty seconds. There 
was no exercise of the flotilla. The steam-launch was reported 
equipped as a sailing launch at this exercise ; her engines and 
propeller had been removed, and two pole masts were improvised 
out of an old broken torpedo-spar, which with other fittings makes 
her serviceable for a long voyage at sea if desired. 

We resumed our course down the river, and at nine P.M. took 
our departure from Maldonado light, gradually making sail during 
the night as we changed our course to southeast out of the mouth 
of the river. We continued under steam and fore-and-aft sail to 
the southeast all of the next day and until Sunday forenoon, when 
we hauled fires and made sail. We had a long sea until then, 
with light winds from the northward and eastward, but the wind 
suddenly freshened, which necessitated two reefs in the topsails. 
During the afternoon the wind continued very fresh, and increased 
to a fresh gale by eleven p.m. that night, after which it gradually 
died away to a light breeze, veering to the southwest by noon the 
next day. We changed our course to due east at Sunday noon, 
and after the gale subsided, Monday, we made sail to royals and 
also set starboard topmast studding-sail. The ship sailed very 



144 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

slowly, and only made five or six knots with a fine quartering 
breeze, with which on other passages she has made seven and 
eight. Wednesday, October 3, the wind freshened considerably 
from the southwest, and by midnight blew a very fresh gale, dur- 
ing which we made from eight to ten knots for several hours, but 
the sea became rough towards morning, and at noon her speed fell 
off again to five or six knots. During this gale the ship rolled 
about very uncomfortably, and the officers and men displayed their 
usual good nature at the attending mishaps and discomforts. This 
wind continued until Saturday, October 6, when it veered to the 
northwest, and then to the northeast on Sunday, October 7. The 
barometer, which had been high up to this time, commenced to 
fall, while the wind came out still fresher from north and north 
by east, bringing a heavy cross-sea. The indications were very 
unfavorable, and that afternoon we close-reefed the topsails and 
foresail and prepared for a very heavy gale. The wind, however, 
veered to the westward again, and towards the evening of the 8th 
it became light and variable, accompanied by heavy rain-squalls, 
and finally settled down from the east and southeast. Wednesday, 
October 10, we got westerly winds again, but the sea became 
rough and we made very slow progress. The weather continued 
about the same until Sunday, October 14, when it came out from 
the southeast and headed us off to the northward of our course. 
The southeast winds then continued, with occasional variation, 
more or less to the southward, until October 21, when we were 
due north of the Tristan d'Acunha Islands. 

It was our intention to pass in sight of these islands, but the 
wind took us far to the northward and they were not seen. These 
islands are of volcanic origin ; the largest of the three — Tristan 
d'Acunha — is about fifteen hundred miles southwest of St. Helena. 
It has an area of forty square miles, is nearly circular, and rises 
abruptly on the north side to one thousand feet, and a conical 
peak from the cliffs reaches a height of eight thousand three hun- 
dred and twenty-six feet, and is visible on a clear day for over 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 145 

sixty miles. The summit of the peak is a crater, five hundred 
yards in diameter, filled with water. There is a plain on the 
northwest side which is highly cultivated. A small settlement 
exists at one end of the plain which has about seventy inhabitants, 
who are intelligent and hospitable. This island was discovered in 
1506 by the Portuguese navigator whose name it bears, and ex- 
plored by the Dutch in 1643, and the French in 1767. John 
Patten, an American whaler, lived on this island with his crew 
from 1790 to 1791. The British had a small garrison on it dur- 
ing the period of Napoleon's captivity on St. Helena. The pres- 
ent inhabitants are nearly all descendants of Corporal John Glass, 
of the Royal Marines. 

Inaccessible Island is seventeen miles and Nightingale Island 
about twenty miles southwest of Tristan dAcunha. The former 
is elliptical, four miles long and two wide, and rises abruptly five 
hundred feet out of the sea. The latter is round, one and one- 
half miles in diameter, and two hundred feet high, both being 
uninhabited. 

We started fires on Sunday, October 21, and continued under 
steam until noon on Friday, October 26. During that week we 
experienced calms and light airs from the southward and eastward. 
After hauling fires we had the same weather, and on the 28th and 
29th we scarcely made any progress on the chart. The distance 
made good for those two days was such that the noon position on 
the track chart for the 27th, 28th, and 29th appear as if that was 
some station. 

Six albatross were caught on the 27th by ordinary baited fish- 
hook and line. These birds were stuffed and are beautiful speci- 
mens. The albatross is a genus of web-footed sea-birds, and weighs 
from twelve to twenty-eight pounds ; it has a very strong, hard, 
straight beak, which suddenly curves downward with a sharp hook 
at the point. The feet are short, the three toes long and webbed, 
while the wings are very long and narrow, extending from eleven 
to fifteen feet. These specimens are white, with portions of the 



146 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

back and wings gray and brown. Tbe white plumage of the breast 
is beautifully marked with spot's of gray in wavy circles. The 
long wing-bones are hollow, and give it extraordinary lightness ; 
the Esquimaux use these bones for tobacco-pipes. The albatross 
is frequently known as the man-of-war bird, from the great height, 
power, and continuity of its flight, and some old tars say that it 
sleeps on the wing. 

Towards three p.m., October 29, a light breeze sprang up from 
the north -northeast, which gradually increased and veered to the 
northwest, and, with slight variations, continued up to November 

1, when we again experienced light airs, and at noon, November 

2, we started fires, coupled the propeller, and then steamed until 
we reached the anchorage at Cape Town. At 11.50 a.m., Sunday, 
November 4, the lookout from the topsail yard reported land right 
ahead, which proved to be Table Mountain, about twenty-six miles 
away. We gradually slowed down during the night, and at 4.30 
A.M., November 5, we steamed into the bay, and anchored in the 
harbor at 7.40 a.m. At eight a.m. we saluted the English flag 
with twenty-one guns, which was duly returned by the battery on 
shore. The time occupied in the passage from Montevideo to 
Cape Town was thirty-seven days and eighteen hours, and the dis- 
tance actually sailed three thousand nine hundred and seventy- 
three miles. The weather was, as a general thing, pleasant. We 
had our usual routine of drills, etc. ; the band played almost every 
day, and the boys in the lee gangway had many a pleasant evening- 
boxing, etc., to while the time away. 

Thursday morning, November 8, we hauled in to between the 
jetties to leeward of the breakwater, where the ship was moored 
by stern lines to the dock, and sheet-chain shackled to a buoy. 
We received a great many visitors, and the people on shore were 
very polite and hospitable. The officers were offered the privi- 
leges of the prominent clubs, and all hands felt themselves at 
home again among our English cousins. It was strange to hear 
the people on the street speaking Euglish ; we almost doubted 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 147 

their understanding our language, and many of us were surprised 
at getting prompt replies to our questions in English, half expecting 
we would have to translate or get an interpreter. 

THE CAPE COLONY. 

COMPILED FEOM OFFICIAL EEPOBTS, THE GENERAL DIRECTOEY, GEORGE 
M. THEALS'S "SOUTH AFRICA," SILVER & CO.'S "HANDBOOK TO SOUTH 
AFEICA," AND PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS. 

The British colony of the Cape of Good Hope is by far the 
most important of the different states of South Africa. Its coast- 
line is twelve hundred miles in length, and its area about two 
hundred thousand square miles, but its boundaries are not yet 
accurately defined, and this area is merely an approximation. Its 
population in 1875, the last census, was 720,984; made up of 
236,783 Europeans, 214,133 Kaffirs and Bechuans, 98,561 Hot- 
tentots, 87,184 mixed races, 73,506 Fingoes, and 10,817 Malays. 
The dry atmosphere and warmth of the colony render its climate 
one of the healthiest in the world. The mountains, which run 
diagonally across the country, divide the colony into two climatic 
districts. The upper district has its rainy season during the win- 
ter, while the eastern side receives its rain from the Indian Ocean 
" trades" in spring and summer. The mean temperature at the 
Royal Observatory in Cape Town is 61 degrees, the hottest being 
99 in January, and coldest in July, at 34. No part of the colony 
is subject to malaria. 

There are about five hundred and fifty thousand acres of ground 
under cultivation, which annually yield about two million bushels 
of wheat, one million bushels of corn, and proportionate quantities 
of oats, rye, potatoes, and other vegetables. The vineyards yield 
about five million gallons of wine and one million gallons of spirits, 
the Constantia wine ranking with the best in the world. 

Sheep-farming is one of the principal industries, ten million of 
wooled sheep being owned in the colony, besides one million 
African sheep, eight hundred and seventy-eight thousand Angora 



148 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

goats, two million common goats, two hundred and six thousand 
horses, over a million of horned cattle, and twenty-two thousand 
domesticated ostriches. South Africa at one time contained a 
greater variety of animal life than an equal area of any other 
country of the world, but the large wild game has been nearly 
exterminated. A few elephants, zebras, and buffaloes still exist 
in the forests of Zitzikama, but the rhinoceros, giraffe, lion, eland, 
and hippopotamus are no longer found near European settlements. 
The smaller varieties of antelope still abound, as well as leopards, 
wild dogs, hyenas, jackals, boars, baboons, monkeys, porcupines, 
jerboas, coneys, and ant-eaters. When the country was discovered 
the ox, heavy-tailed sheep, dog, goat, and barn-yard fowl were 
found in the possession of Hottentots and Kaffirs ; the other do- 
mestic animals were introduced by the Europeans and found to 
thrive well. There is a great variety of birds, but very few of 
these are songsters. Alligators, iguanas, adders, the cobra di 
capello, tree-snake, lizards, frogs, and tortoises are also very 
numerous. 

The vegetable kingdom is represented by a very great variety. 
Trees are scarce in the greater part, but there are some fine forests 
in the coast region. One of the most remarkable circumstances 
is the provision of nature in the abundance of succulent plants 
and shrubs in the driest and most barren parts of the country. 
The " karroo bosch" and " kengwe" afford food and drink for 
millions of sheep and cattle which would otherwise perish in those 
districts. The eastern coast is carpeted with wild grass and beau- 
tiful flowers of every hue. 

The mineral wealth of the colony is still unknown, but scientific 
explorations are being made. There are rich and extensive copper 
mines in Namaqualand, which in 1881 yielded fourteen thousand 
tons, valued at one and a quarter million dollars. Coal has been 
found in the Stormberg Mountains, and the Cyphergat Mining 
Company, organized in April, 1882, estimates its nine hundred 
and twenty-one proved acres of coal area to contain four million 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 149 

tons of coal. This mine is on the Eastern system of railway, and 
the workings at no point will be more than one hundred yards 
from this railway. Fifteen hundred tons are now produced 
monthly. There are three other coal mines in this range, but not 
yet developed. Lead is found in the Transvaal Republic. Salt is 
obtained in unlimited quantities from salt-pans in different parts 
of the country, and a superior quality of manganese is found in 
the Drakenstein Mountains. Iron also abounds, but none is yet 
produced. 

The only manufactures are those for home consumption. But 
there are sixteen hundred and ninety-five flour-mills, three hun- 
dred and six leather-tanneries, and a great industry in the manu- 
facture of wagons from African wood and imported iron. 

The colony is bounded on the north by the Orange Free State, 
on the northeast by Basutoland, and on the east by Kaffraria. 
The colony is divided into seven provinces, — the Western, North- 
western, Southwestern, Midland, Southeastern, Northeastern, and 
Eastern. Each of these has about 85,000 inhabitants except the 
Eastern, which has 27,000 Europeans and 201,000 colored. 
Cape Town, the capital, contained 57,319 inhabitants and 8000 
houses at the last census in 1875. It was founded in 1652, and 
presents a beautiful appearance from sea, being built upon a slope 
rising from the southern shore of Table Bay to the foot of Table 
Mountain, and up the valley enclosed between Table Mountain 
and the Lion's Rump. Table Mountain is a magnificent promon- 
tory three thousand five hundred and eighty two feet high, with 
vertical sides, and as its name indicates, has a long level plateau 
on its summit resembling an immense table. This is frequently 
covered with clouds, which, with a southeast wind, drop down 
over the edge like an immense table-cloth ; and Devil's Peak, a 
somewhat detached promontory a little north of the edge of the 
Table, is also covered as if by a napkin, while the rest of the sky 
is cloudless. This scenery, with beautiful white fleecy clouds 
rolling over the level plateau and down the precipitous sides, ex- 



150 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

cites the admiration, and its memory can never be effaced from the 
minds of those who have seen it. 

The Lion's Rump, to seaward and almost parallel with it, is 
nothing like as high ; its southern point terminates in a bold 
peak, which, with some imagination, may be conceived to be like 
a lion's head, the hill to the northward forming the body of the 
crouching lion. 

Table Bay is a spacious indentation in the coast, open and ex- 
posed to the northwest, with Robben Island at its entrance. A 
great many disastrous shipwrecks have occurred here, and led to 
the construction of a magnificent and commodious dock, in which 
ships lie in perfect safety. This dock was commenced in 1860, 
and opened for traffic on the 17th of May, 1870. It was named 
by the Duke of Edinburgh the " Alfred Dock" a few weeks later. 
The breakwater runs out northeasterly for eighteen hundred feet, 
and ends in six fathoms of water ; work, however, is being con- 
tinued, and the breakwater will, when completed, extend eighteen 
hundred feet still farther beyond its present terminus. Two jetties 
extend at right angles southeast from the breakwater, one, the 
east jetty, enclosing the outer basin, and the other, the coaling 
jetty, which is about the centre of what will be the future outer 
harbor of forty-four acres area, to be enclosed by an east pier eight 
hundred and fifty feet long, and to run out southeast from the point 
where the breakwater now terminates. The depth of water in the 
future harbor is twenty feet at low-water in the most shallow parts. 
The inner basin is just outside the entrance to the Alfred basin, 
and encloses an area of two hundred and fifty feet by six hundred 
feet over to the south jetty. The Alfred basin is one thousand 
and twenty-five feet long by five hundred feet wide at the north 
end, and two hundred and fifty feet at the south end, where it 
terminates in a patent slip eight hundred and sixty feet long by 
sixty-five feet wide, with cradle two hundred and forty-three feet 
long by fifty feet wide. The depth of water at ordinary low-water 
at foot of cradle is seventeen feet, and this marine railway is capable 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 151 

of taking up a vessel of two thousand tons burden. A graving- or 
dry-dock has been constructed inside of the Alfred basin, which 
is a solid granite structure of the following dimensions : length at 
coping level, five hundred and twenty-nine feet six inches ; length 
on keel-blocks, five hundred feet; length with caisson on stop, 
twelve feet additional ; width of dock at coping, ninety feet ; 
width of entrance at top, sixty-eight feet ; width of entrance at 
bottom, sixty feet ; depth on sill at low-water, seventeen feet ; 
depth on sill at high-water, twenty-one feet. 

The dock-yard encloses a number of buildings for custom-house 
offices, workshops, engine-house, stores, and sheds for merchandise, 
and machine-shop. It is thoroughly lighted by twenty arc elec- 
tric lights of the Brush system, of eight hundred candle-power 
each. A tower is built on the end of the south jetty, which will 
contain a clock to be connected with the Royal Observatory, and 
visible from the anchorage in the bay. A convict station-house 
adjoins the dock-yard, and a great deal of the Table Bay harbor 
works has been performed by convict labor. 

A south pier, fifteen hundred feet long, parallel with and about 
fifteen hundred feet south of the breakwater, is in course of con- 
struction, to form the future outer harbor, the entrance to which 
will be partly closed by a jetty three hundred and seventy feet 
long, which will run to within two hundred and forty feet of the 
east pier previously mentioned. The dry- dock cost about one 
hundred and fifty thousand pounds sterling, while the total ex- 
penditures on the Table Bay harbor works up to June 30, 1881, 
was one million three hundred and seventy-two thousand seven 
hundred and eighty-one pounds sterling, including three hundred 
and sixteen thousand nine hundred and twenty-nine pounds paid 
in interest. The dock dues for vessels entering the basins, with 
privilege of remaining three weeks, is sixpence per ton ; for dock- 
ing and undocking in the graving-dock, or taking up and launch- 
ing from the patent slip, the dues are two and sixpence per ton 
register gross. Vessels are charged sixpence per ton for every 



152 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

twenty-four hours' occupation of the dock or patent slip, except 
days of docking or undocking. 

The streets of Cape Town are for the most part regularly laid 
out and tolerably well lighted by gas. The carriage-ways are mac- 
adamized and covered with a reddish clay, which, when the wind 
blows, — and it seems to do so constantly, — fills the air with dust. 
The houses are devoid of architectural beauty, and many of them 
have projecting " stoeps," which oblige the pedestrian to leave the 
sidewalk once or twice in almost every block. There are, how- 
ever, several fine churches, hospitals, bank buildings, and the rail- 
way station. The governor's residence, " The Castle," at one time 
was considered quite a palace ; its surrounding gardens are very 
attractive, and there is a beautiful avenue of old English oaks, 
covered with ivy, at the head of the principal business street. 
This avenue of oaks passes in rear of the new Parliament build- 
ing, now nearly completed. This covers a space of two hundred 
and sixty-four by one hundred and forty-one feet, and the extreme 
height is sixty-three feet to the top of the portico. This building 
is a fine modern structure ; the ground-floor is fire-proof for rec- 
ords, etc. The basement is executed in Paarl granite, and the 
remainder in pointed red brick with cement dressings. The eleva- 
tions are designed in Italian Renaissance, freely treated. The 
Botanical Garden is a little farther up the avenue of oaks, and 
contains a fine collection of palms, orchids, and a great variety of 
trees and shrubbery, which make it a very interesting resort. 

The South African Museum and Public Library occupy a suit- 
able building directly opposite the new Parliament House. The 
museum contains a very interesting collection, illustrating the 
zoology of South Africa, besides the birds, insects, reptiles, Crus- 
tacea, and geological characteristics. There is also a good collec- 
tion of the weapons and implements of the savage tribes. The 
public library occupies one-half of the building, and contains 
forty thousand volumes, but its most valuable feature is the Grey 
collection of five thousand volumes of rare and valuable books, in- 



' mm 



Ml , 




THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 153 

eluding one hundred and thirty manuscripts on vellum or parch- 
ment, some of the tenth century, two of Dante's manuscripts, a 
Hebrew Bible of the thirteenth century with Moorish embellish- 
ments, and a copy of the very first edition of Shakspeare's plays. 
The collection of the native languages of Africa, Polynesia, and 
New Zealand is very complete and rare, and includes manuscripts by 
the first missionaries and letters and vocabularies of Livingstone. 

The city is well supplied with water from reservoirs fed by 
springs which rise on the slopes of Table Mountain. The water- 
mains are twenty-five miles long, and furnish six hundred and ten 
thousand gallons daily. Two markets are held daily, from sun- 
rise to sunset, except Sunday, but are open until eleven o'clock 
Saturday night. The mutton is the finest in the world, while the 
beef is very fair. Garden produce is plentiful, but prices are con- 
siderably higher than in the United States. 

The colonial railways are divided into three groups, converging 
at the ports of Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, and East London, all 
of which combined had about one thousand miles of railway on 
the 1st of January, 1881. The railways and telegraph lines are 
under government control. The total miles of telegraph in 1880 
were five thousand six hundred miles. The colony is in tele- 
graphic communication with Europe by cables from Natal, Delagoa 
Bay, Mozambique, and Zanzibar to Aden. This line was opened 
Christmas-day, 1879. The city of Cape Town has two street-car 
lines, and about two hundred hansom-cabs, which are found to be 
very convenient. 

BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCH. 

The Cape was discovered in 1486 by the Portuguese navigator, 
Bartholomew Diaz, who took possession in the name of the King 
of Portugal, and erected a pillar and cross at Angra Pequena, 
which still stand. A mutiny then broke out, which obliged him 
to return to Portugal without completing his discoveries. Vasco 
da Glama sailed from Portugal eleven years later and discovered 



154 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Table Bay. He rounded the Cape of Good Hope, and landed at 
Durban Bay on Christmas-day, in commemoration of which he 
named the port Natal. Da Gama then proceeded on to India. 

The English followed in the wake of the Portuguese, but 
neither of these nations founded any permanent establishment at 
the Cape. The Portuguese in this period obtained immense 
riches from the East Indies, which excited the cupidity of the 
Dutch merchants, who fitted out expeditions to wrest some of the 
most coveted points from the Portuguese, whose cruelty and 
rapacity had caused them to be detested by the natives. The 
Netherlands East Indies Company was then formed, which held 
a charter authorizing them to administer supreme power in the 
name of the States-General of United Netherlands. 

The long passages to and from India necessitated a half-way 
station, and in March, 1651, the Dutch company formed a perma- 
nent settlement in Table Bay. They had some difficulty in ob- 
taining lands from the Hottentots, but the latter's claims were 
eventually disregarded, and additional Dutch settlers from time to 
time completed their ascendency. Three hundred of the French 
Huguenots settled at the Cape after the Edict of Nantes. The 
colony continued to grow slowly, but its government by the Dutch 
governors was a perfect despotism. All trade was monopolized by 
the company, and while the natives were held in abject slavery, 
the citizen had no rights which the company's governors were 
obliged to respect. The history up to 1*795 is chiefly of a series 
of wars and oppressive acts against the native tribes. 

The French revolution in 1793 brought about the invasion of 
the Netherlands by the French under Pichegru, aided by the 
Dutch democrats. An alliance was then formed between the 
French and Batavian republics, and the Dutch stadtholder fled to 
England and requested that power to take possession of the Dutch 
colonies and to hold them in trust for himself. Admiral Elphin- 
stone, with nine ships of war, and four thousand troops under 
General Craig, took possession of Simon's Town on the 14th of 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 155 

July, 1795, and after a feeble resistance captured Cape Town and 
the whole Dutch colony. A Batavian fleet attempted its re- 
capture, but instead fell a prey to the English. During the fol- 
lowing eight years, although the English inaugurated a really 
good and liberal government, the history of the colony is merely 
an account of a chronic state of rebellion. 

On the 27th of March, 1802, the treaty of Amiens was signed, 
one condition of which obliged England to evacuate the Cape and 
deliver it to Holland, which was done in February, 1803. The 
population was then about seventy thousand in all, twenty-two 
thousand Europeans, twenty-six thousand slaves from the Guinea 
coast, and the rest Hottentots. After this the Dutch improved 
their administration considerably, but the peace of Amiens was 
of short duration, and the wars of Napoleon induced England to 
fit out another expedition for the permanent recapture of the Cape. 
In January, 1806, a fleet of sixty-three ships under Sir Home 
Popham anchored off Robben Island, and after a slight resistance 
the British army under General Baird captured Cape Town and 
the rest of Cape Colony. After the fall of Napoleon Bonaparte 
the possession of the Cape was confirmed by the King of Nether- 
lands, to whom England paid six million pounds. In 1815 the 
congress at Vienna ratified this, since when there has been no 
attempt to wrest the colony from her. 

The British were fortunate in their governors, who corrected 
many of the abuses inaugurated by the Dutch. The settlers, 
however, had a continual border war with the Kaffir tribes. In 
1807 foreign slave-trade was prohibited, followed in 1834 by the 
total prohibition of slavery throughout the British dominions. 
All slaves in Cape Colony became free on December 1, 1834. 
The government paid two-fifths of the appraised value of the 
slaves to their owners ; and the amount of compensation thus 
paid in the Cape Colony was one million two hundred thousand 
pounds. It was found impossible to reconcile the Dutch Boers 
to this measure, and a great many of these left the colony and 



156 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

migrated to the northward, where they settled the Orange Free 
State and the Transvaal Republic. The English government al- 
lowed them to go without any attempt to restrain them, and the 
Boers have maintained their independence up to the present time. 
The recent contests with the Boers are still fresh in our minds ; 
they and the Zulus are yet formidable enemies to the advance of 
the British, whose policy has been to annex all the surrounding 
country and leave the boundaries of Cape Colony undefined. 

The colony received its present constitution in 1850, by which 
the colonial parliament was established. The government at pres- 
ent is administered by Governor Sir Hercules G. R. Robinson, 
who is the commander-in-chief and lord high commissioner. He 
assumed office on January 22, 1881, and is president of the ex- 
ecutive council, and receives a salary of eight thousand pounds 
per annum. Lieuten ant-General Hon. Leicester Smyth is deputy- 
governor. There are thirty members of the executive council, 
including the chief justice of the colony (who is also president of 
the legislative council), and five cabinet officers who occupy seats 
in both houses of parliament, which are the legislative council 
and house of assembly. The legislative council consists of five 
members, elected from each of the seven provinces, and one from 
Griqualand West, annexed in April, 1881. The house of assem- 
bly consists of seventy-two members ; two representatives chosen 
from each electoral division except Cape Town, which has four. 
The total colonial revenue for the fiscal year 1881-82 was three 
million five hundred and twenty-four thousand eight hundred and 
fifty-eight pounds, while the total expenditure amounted to two 
million two hundred and thirty-nine thousand nine hundred and 
thirty pounds for the same period. 

The colonial military establishment had a total of thirteen hun- 
dred and sixty-eight officers and men of the Cape, mounted rifle- 
men, artillery, and infantry, and eighteen hundred and twenty- 
three officers and men of the volunteers, while the reserved lists 
of burghers was fifty-five thousand three hundred and seventy- 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 157 

three, and of levies seventy-six thousand nine hundred and forty- 
nine for the year 1882. The colony is also garrisoned by several 
English regiments. The First Battalion Argyll and Sutherland 
Highlanders were on duty in Cape Town, but under orders to 
exchange with the Fifty-eighth Regiment of the line at Natal. 
The Highlanders wear the kilts of the Highland uniform, and 
they present a decidedly handsome appearance. 

THE AFRICAN DIAMOND-FIELDS. 

In 1867 a Dutch farmer named Schalk van Niekerk, who re- 
sided at Hope Town, observed some neighboring children playing 
with a remarkably brilliant pebble, of which the mistress of the 
house, without more ado, made him a present, upon hearing him 
express his admiration of the stone. A trader, named O'Reilly, 
suspected its being a diamond, and after obtaining possession of it, 
he had it tested at Cape Town by the French consul. It proved 
to be a real diamond, weighing twenty-one carats, and was sold 
to the governor, Sir P. E. Wodehouse, for five hundred pounds. 
The country was startled by the announcement ; search was com- 
menced in Hope Town division, and a second diamond was soon 
found ; then a third was picked up on the banks of the Vaal River. 
Numbers of isolated gems were found in 1868 and 1869, and 
during the latter year the " Star of South Africa" was bought 
from the Kaffir chief Schonell ; this gem weighed eighty-three 
and one-half carats, and was of first water. It was for a consid- 
erable time in the possession of a Kaffir witch-doctor, and was 
used in the incantations and mystic rites. Avarice conquered 
superstition, and it was sold to Mr. van Niekerk, who disposed of 
it for eleven thousand two hundred pounds, or fifty-four thousand 
five hundred and four dollars and eighty cents. These diamond- 
finds soon brought a great rush of people to this district ; and in 
1872 the dry-diggings at Kimberly were found to be exceedingly 
rich. In the river-diggings the diamonds are found imbedded in 
huge boulders, which have to be broken up, the gravel carted 

11 



158 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

down the river, and washed in a cradle or in tubs. For dry-dig- 
gings a lime-like substance of a reddish green termed the "blue" 
is dug out, and this is sifted through double series of coarse and 
fine mesh wire. That which is retained on the lower fine sieve is 
only valuable, and its contents are carefully examined for the 
gems. 

The diamond-diggings at Kimberly, six hundred miles from 
Cape Town, are by far the richest in the world. The value of 
the four principal mines, Kimberly, Old De Beer's, Du Toit's 
Pan, and Bultfontein, is a total of about nine million nine hun- 
dred thousand pounds sterling, with an annual yield of diamonds 
valued at fifteen million dollars. The Kimberly diamond mine is 
the largest. The working-places of this mine were, during 1882, 
on an average of three hundred and forty feet below the surface 
and two miles in circumference. The diamondiferous ground in 
some portions is worth twenty-five dollars for a load of sixteen 
cubic feet, but the average is about five dollars per load for the 
whole mine. The " blue" ground of the Kimberly mine yields 
about one and one-fifth carats per load of sixteen cubic feet. No 
" yellow" ground is worked. Sixteen hundred and sixty-six pounds 
in weight of diamonds, equal to two million six hundred and two 
thousand eight hundred and eighty carats, were transmitted 
through the Kimberly post-office in the year 1882, two thousand 
two hundred and forty carats being allowed for the pound weight. 

Wire-rope tramways are most extensively employed for working 
the mines, which are really surface-diggings. Within the dia- 
mondiferous area these diggings go down to very unequal depths, 
and the soft earth is deposited around the outer edge of this area, 
forming an embankment known as the " reef." During the first 
part of this year this " reef" or soft debris fell into the mines in 
such quantities that it required eighteen months to remove it. 
Upward of four thousand tons fell within twenty-four hours, and 
the calamity produced great distress. Shares in the Kimberly 
mine, which were worth eighteen hundred dollars, then fell to 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 159 

four hundred, while De Beer's mine had to be sold by the sheriff. 
Several merchants have been ruined, and the disaster induced ten 
of the leading men to commit, suicide. The general distress was 
at this time increased by failure of the crops during the previous 
season, from the effects of which the people are still suffering. 

With respect to the buying and selling of uncut diamonds in 
and about the vicinity of the " fields," the most rigid laws are 
enforced by the colonial government. The traders residing in the 
colony and the employes of the mines are kept under the strictest 
surveillance, and none are allowed to buy or sell even a simple 
stone without being licensed as a regular dealer, and even then 
the transaction is registered by a government recorder. 

The penalty for illicit diamond dealing consists of from five to 
fifteen years' penal servitude. 

These laws were made and are enforced in order to protect the 
owners and stockholders of the mines from theft. Without these 
laws there would be no way of preventing the employes from 
disposing of the stones which they can so easily obtain. 

On November 11, 1883, we were lying moored to the break- 
water, waiting for a bark to come out of the dry- dock that we 
might go in and examine the ship's copper. In the mean time 
the English people in Cape Town had been extending a number 
of invitations to us to accept their hospitality, expressing the hos- 
pitable feeling with which they regard us and Americans generally. 

Commodore Phelps, Captain Weaver, and all the officers re- 
ceived a very polite invitation to dinner from Colonel Robley and 
the officers of the First Battalion Sutherland and Argyll High- 
landers, known as the " Princess Louise's Own." Captain Weaver 
and seven officers from the wardroom and steerage represented the 
ship, and enjoyed a very pleasant evening. At 7.30 the guests were 
escorted to the mess-hall, and seated at the table among the officers 
of the regiment, the captain and consul being given the seats of 
honor on either side of Colonel Robley. The occasion was en- 



160 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

livened by the strains of the " Highland pipers," who played 

alternately with the regimental band. The following is the order 

of music : 

PROGRAMME— REGIMENTAL BAND. 

Overture — " Le Cheval de Bronze," Huber. 
Selection — " Reminiscences of all Nations," Godfrey. 
Valse — " Fedora," Bucalossi. 
Selection — " Olivette," Audrau. 
Polka — " Les Sauterelles," Delbruck. 

SCOTTISH AIRS PLATED BY PIPERS. 
March — " The Bonnie Breast-knots." 
Strathspey — "Tulloch Gorrn." 
Reel—" The Reel o' Tulloch." 
Pibroch — " Lord Breadalbane." 

When the last course had been served and the dinner was 
drawing to a close, the adjutant of the regiment arose and, call- 
ing attention, proposed " The Queen." " The Queen !" cried 
all at the table ; and, as the toast was drunk, the band played 
" Grod Save the Queen." The adjutant then called attention 
again, and, raising his glass, cried in a loud voice, " To the Presi- 
dent of the United States." " To the President of the United 
States !" repeated every one, and the band immediately struck up 
our national hymn. After this the pipers marched into the hall 
and around the table several times playing the peculiar Scottish air 
of the regiment. At eleven p.m. the captain and officers returned 
to the ship, well pleased with the entertainment which they had 
received from her majesty's officers. It is to be regretted that 
docking and coaling ship prevented the return of this hospitality 
during our brief stay at Cape Town. 

Early Tuesday morning, November 13, we hauled into the dry- 
dock, where the ship was secured at 5.45 a.m. The dock was 
then pumped out gradually, while " all hands" got on board the 
floats and catamarans and scraped the barnacles off the copper 
until 5.30 p.m., when the dock was pumped dry, the ship firmly 
secured by shores, and the copper thoroughly cleaned. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 161 

Upon examination the copper was found almost perfect ; only a 
few sheets, about twenty in all, were required to replace some 
worn off under the forefoot along the keel. Many theories had 
been advanced to account for the great number of sheets of copper 
which were found full of holes when we docked at Rio de Janeiro, 
to repair the damages caused by the " Mozart's" inexcusable 
blunder in running into us eighteen months before. The present 
condition confirms the opinion that the damage was caused by 
acids from the sewers in Wallabout Bay at the New York Navy- 
yard. Some thought the copper was mixed with metallic im- 
purities of such a nature that when in salt water a galvanic 
action would be set up which would leave the copper full of holes. 
If this had been the case this action would have continued, and 
the copper would have been found to be as badly corroded as 
before, which this last examination proved not to be the case. 
The examination was highly satisfactory, since there can be no 
doubt about the perfect soundness of all the ship's timbers, not to 
mention the great benefit to the sailing qualities of the ship by 
having the barnacles scraped off. Our experience since then 
proved that the ship sailed at least thirty per cent, faster than 
before. 

While in the dry-dock a great many people in Cape Town took 
advantage of the opportunity to visit the ship. Every attention 
was shown to the visitors as far as the duties of the ship would 
permit, though we rather disliked having visitors aboard when we 
were coaling, for the coal-dust detracted so much from the ship's 
usual bright, cleanly appearance. 

The ship's company also had one day's liberty to visit Cape 
Town, and to do a little shopping preparatory to the long cruise in 
the Indian Ocean and around Madagascar. 

We remained in the dry-dock until Saturday noon, and during 
that period we received three hundred and thirty-four tons and 
fifteen hundred pounds of coal. As we had about thirty-five tons 
on hand, the total amounted to about three hundred and seventy 



162 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

tons. Of this amount the bunkers only contained about two hun- 
dred and seventy tons, and we were obliged to stow the remainder 
in bags, twenty-eight tons and one thousand and ninety pounds 
being stowed in the main hold, and seventy-one tons and sixteen 
hundred pounds on the spar-deck between the guns. This dispo- 
sition of weights materially improved the trim of the ship. 

The dock was flooded on Thursday, November 16, at 6.30 
A.M., and early on Saturday morning we started twelve fires to 
raise steam. At one P.M., after having received our coal and pro- 
visions, the caisson was opened and we hauled out clear of the 
wharves ; after which we steamed out to the anchorage in Table 
Bay. 

While lying at the anchorage a light breeze sprang up from the 
south, and Table Mountain became covered with a beautiful veil 
of clouds, known as the " table-cloth." The breeze freshened 
considerably, and for better security we let go our starboard 
bower-anchor and started to veer on the port chain. The wind 
and the currents had a remarkably strong influence upon the 
ship ; and after veering a few fathoms on the port chain, the cable 
suddenly snapped at the eighty-two and one-half fathom swivel, 
but the starboard chain remained fast and held the ship, and the 
port sheet-anchor was immediately let go. The fracture of the 
swivel gave no indications of any decided flaw to explain its break- 
ing. The next morning while catting the port sheet-anchor a 
light breeze sprang up from eastward and caused the ship to forge 
ahead, leaving the starboard chain and anchor tending aft. As 
the ship continued to advance and the chain did not perceptibly 
tauten, it was evident that the starboard chain had parted out- 
side of the hawse-pipe. We immediately let go the port sheet- 
anchor again, which brought the ship up. The starboard chain 
was then hove in, and found to have carried away at about nine- 
teen fathoms from the anchor. It is difficult to understand why 
these chains parted, because the wind was not anything like as 
strong as the " pamperos" which we so often rode out at Monte- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 163 

video, while the sea was almost smooth. We recovered our anchors 
early the next morning. 

The same day, November 19, at 4.45 p.m., we got under way 
and began the voyage to Tamatave, Madagascar. We proceeded 
under steam until 10.30 A.M., Thursday, November 22, up to 
which time we experienced fine weather with southerly winds, 
gradually veering to the westward. The coal on deck was con- 
sumed with the exception of five tons. On Thursday we were 
well to the southward and eastward of Cape Agulhas, the south- 
ern extremity of Africa. The Cape of Good Hope is generally 
considered the most southern point of land of Africa, while Cape 
Agulhas is rarely mentioned. 

We made all plain sail to topgallant-sails, and took advantage 
of a fine quartering breeze, which continued to favor us until Tues- 
day, 27th instant. During this time the ship displayed excel- 
lent sailing qualities, and frequently made nine and ten knots per 
hour, and on one occasion logged as high as 11.8 knots. Not- 
withstanding the good weather the passage was decidedly uncom- 
fortable, owing to the heavy sea and deep rolling of the ship. 
The maximum roll observed was twenty degrees to windward and 
thirty degrees to leeward. 

At ten o'clock Tuesday morning " all hands" were called to 
muster, and Squadron Order No. 4, issued by the commander-in- 
chief on the 12th instant, was read to the officers and crew as 
follows : 

" Commanding officers of vessels on the South Atlantic Station 
visiting Madagascar, the east coast of Africa, or the adjacent 
islands will, so far as it may apply to their commands, be guided 
by the requirements of Section 39, page 85, United States Navy 
Regulations." 

The paragraph referred to in the above order is chiefly a sani- 
tary regulation, no officer or man being allowed on shore after 
sunset. 



164 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 



CHAPTER X. 

Arrival at Tamatave — The "War prevents Communication with the Shore — De- 
parture for Zanzibar — Events of the Trip — Christmas at Zanzibar — Descrip- 
tion of Zanzibar and its History — Peculiar Customs and Industries of the 
Arabs — The Commercial Wealth of Zanzibar — African Slavery — The Slave 
" Dhows" — The Hospitality of the Sultan of Zanzibar — Remarkable Dinner- 
party given by the Sultan to the American Officers — Visit to the Sultan's 
Harem — Labors of the English Universities — Missions in behalf of African 
Slaves — Abolition of Slavery in Zanzibar. 

During December we cruised in the Indian Ocean along the 
east coast of Madagascar to Tamatave, and, after a few days' stay 
at that port, put to sea again, and proceeded around the north end 
of the island of Madagascar, across to the port of Zanzibar, where 
we arrived a few days before Christmas. 

A few extracts from the log give the following details of our 
experience during the month : At noon, December 1, we were in 
latitude 34° 52' S., and longitude 50° 5' E., from which posi- 
tion our-course was a little east of north to proceed along the east 
coast of Madagascar to Tamatave. We experienced light head- 
winds for the first two days, with rainy, disagreeable weather. 
But the sea was smooth, and in fact we had no rough weather 
during the entire month, and the ship was very comfortable. 
December 3 we had a moderate breeze from northwest, which 
veered to southwest by the 4th, and back again to northeast 
the next day. We expected to have the southeast " trades," 
but were disappointed, as the wind held from the northeast, with 
but little variation, and obliged us to beat to windward to weather 
the southeast coast of Madagascar. We tacked ship six times on 
the 6th, and the ship worked beautifully every time. 

About noon the next day we furled sail and started ahead under 
steam, the wind still being from northeast to north -northeast. We 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 165 

then consumed all our deck-load of coal, and from this time until 
our arrival at Tamatave, on December 11 , we continued under steam 
or sail, or both, when the wind favored, without any special incident. 

Tamatave stands on a low projection about five miles from Plum 
Island. A reef encircles Point Hastie, aod the direct passage 
leading to the anchorage is about three-quarters of a mile wide 
between the north point of this reef and the south point of the 
Great Reef. These reefs, with a north reef, shelter the anchorage 
from the northeast, east, and southerly winds. There are two other 
reefs between Plum Island and the Great Reef, forming channels, 
either of which may be taken with caution. 

We passed in and selected a good berth, but had scarcely an- 
chored when an officer from the French flag-ship " Naiade" came 
on board with a request from the French rear-admiral for us to 
shift our berth, because we were in the line of fire between the 
ship and shore. We then shifted to an anchorage north of the 
" Naiade." A French health officer also came on board and 
granted us pratique. The place was in a state of siege and actu- 
ally in possession of the French. The usual salutes were ex- 
changed between the " Naiade" and " Brooklyn." 

The town could scarcely be distinguished on account of the 
trees and luxuriant tropical vegetation, but a French flag over a 
fort on shore gave evidence of the occupation of the place by the 
French troops. The town is of considerable importance as the 
seaport of the capital of Madagascar, — Antananarivo. Before the 
present difficulty with the French it had about ten thousand in- 
habitants. The houses or huts are made of light wood or bamboo, 
and the only buildings of any size are those occupied by the 
American, English, French, and German consuls. The port of 
Tamatave has had a very good trade, and two American firms have 
agents here, who do a very extensive business with the natives ; 
American cottons and merchandise being in special demand in ex- 
change for hides, rubber, etc. Madagascar exports great quantities 
of rice, and furnishes the main supply for the negroes and natives 



166 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

on neighboring islands. There is a line of steamers which arrives at 
Tamatave every fourth Monday from Mauritius and Bourbon, and 
then proceeds to St. Mary's, Nossi Be, and Mayotta Island and re- 
turn, stopping at the same ports. This, the Armange's line, is to be 
extended to run monthly between Mauritius and Zanzibar, stopping 
at the above ports, and also at Johanna Island and Mozambique. 

The Hovas are the dominant tribe on the island, and they are 
much superior in intelligence and energy to all the other races in 
the vicinity. Of these there were none in the town, because of 
the war with the French at the time of our visit. All who came 
off to the ship did so by the French boats. The first visitor was 
our vice-consul, Mr. Whitney, with his clerk, Mr. Poupard. The 
British consul had left the port before our arrival, and the German 
consul was the only other foreign representative present, and he 
also paid his respects to the commodore and Captain Weaver. 

The commander-in-chief, with his personal staff, called on Rear- 
Admiral Galibert on the morning after our arrival, which visit the 
French admiral returned the same afternoon. The French commis- 
sioner called on Commodore Phelps the next day. Salutes were 
fired as prescribed by the regulations when these official visits were 
made, and duly returned by the " Brooklyn" and " Naiade." We 
also had visits from Mr. Sprague, agent for George Ropes, of Bos- 
ton, Mr. Drew, and an English clergyman. 

The appearance of the tropical verdure, the surf on the coral 
reef to seaward, and rolling mountainous country back of the 
swamp land and rice-fields were very attractive ; but the state of 
siege deprived us of fresh tropical fruits which we longed for after 
our four weeks' fare on salt provisions, though some of the visitors 
kindly sent off some cocoanuts and a few pineapples for some of 
the officers. 

We remained at Tamatave until Saturday, December 15, and 
during our stay took advantage of the opportunity for small-arm 
target-practice, with the Hotchkiss magazine-rifles at floating tar- 
gets at ranges of three hundred yards. The practice was very fair. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 167 

On the 14th the French corvette " Beautemps Beaupre" came 
into the harbor, and her commanding officer called on Commodore 
Phelps, which visit was duly returned. The French gunboat 
" Vaudreuil" came in as we began to unmoor, and before we got 
under way the English gunboat " Tourmaline" also came in the 
harbor and saluted the commodore's flag with eleven guns, which 
we returned gun for gun. 

We got under way at eleven a.m., and steamed out of the harbor 
to continue our cruise, and proceeded to the northward under 
steam, and made and reduced sail as occasion required. December 
17 rounded the northern point of Madagascar — Cape Amber — 
and laid our course direct for Zanzibar. From noon of that day 
to noon of the next we logged the biggest run of the cruise, the 
distance made good being two hundred and thirty miles. During 
this passage we experienced fair weather, with bright moonlight 
nights, but the temperature was decidedly tropical, ranging from 
88° during the day to 81° during the night. The temperature 
of the sea-water at the surface was almost constantly at from 85° 
to 87°. The engineer's department had the most difficult task, 
and the rest of the ship's company did not envy the firemen their 
arduous duties in the fire-room in such hot weather. 

On December 19 we went to general quarters, and exercised 
at target-practice with great guns. Three rounds were fired at a 
regulation target, at distances of from nine hundred to twelve hun- 
dred yards, from the starboard broadside battery and pivots. The 
practice was very good, everything being favorable for the exercise. 
During the afternoon of the same day we steamed in a circle 
to find the compass error by bearings of the sun, with the ship's 
head on each point of the compass. The experiment was also re- 
sumed the next morning, when the sun bore about east, or nearest 
what is technically termed the " prime vertical." 

At eight a.m. on Friday, December 21, we sighted Zanzibar 
Island, arrived off the city at three p.m., and anchored about 
a mile from the landing. The sultan's flag-ship " Glasgow" 



168 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

hoisted the American flag before we had anchored and saluted the 
commodore with thirteen guns, as a special mark of the amicable 
relations with the United States. This salute was duly returned, 
gun for gun, after which we fired the national salute with the 
Zanzibar flag at the fore. This flag is a simple plain red flag, 
without a crescent or other distinguishing mark. We found Her 
British Majesty's ships "Dryad" and "London" at anchor in 
the harbor, and several steamers belonging to the sultan, one of 
which, the " Glasgow," is equipped as a gunboat. 

Mr. F. W. Cheney, the United States consul, visited the ship 
shortly after we had anchored. Official visits were received and 
returned by Commodore Phelps and Captain Weaver from the 
commanding officers of the "Dryad" and " London," the English 
consul-general and vice-consul, and the German, French, and Bel- 
gian consuls during the several days following. 

The bumboats, with laundrymen, butchers, etc., gave us a cor- 
dial reception, and came off promptly to welcome us and offer 
their services. The bumboats brought quantities of cocoanuts, 
most delicious pineapples and mangoes, with other fruits and veg- 
etables, which were heartily enjoyed. The pineapples of Zanzibar 
are very nice, and far superior to those in America ; they are 
very juicy and tender and have a delicious flavor. The mangoes 
are extraordinary, and so superior to those found in the West In- 
dies and South America that they ought to have different names. 
These mangoes have none of the turpentine flavor so common to 
others, and it would be difficult to express how very much the 
ship's company enjoyed them. Salt horse and pork had sharp- 
ened all appetites, and this fruit was so delicious ! 

The Hindis merchants in the bumboats brought off quantities 
of Madagascar mats, African spears, bows and arrows, and other 
curios, which were eagerly bought by all hands at much higher 
prices than the usual market rates. 

We had no special celebration of Christmas-day ; the caterers 
of the messes tried to keep up pleasant reminiscences, and some 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 169 

had plum duff and other delicacies to recall the merry scenes with 
which the time is so happily associated ; but the tropical sun, the 
Mohammedan city, and other circumstances made it difficult to 
realize that Christmas had come again. They say it only comes 
once a year, but this day did not appear different from any other, 
only we did not have any drills, and the Sunday routine was sub- 
stituted for that of Tuesday, except that the inspection was 
omitted, and we had a chance to take a rest. 

The next day we commenced coaling ship, and received one 
hundred and twenty -five tons from 7.50 a.m. to five p.m. 
The coal was brought alongside in lighters, which were discharged 
by the negro laborers employed by the firm which sold the coal. 
It was very amusing to see these negroes carry the coal to the 
bunker-shutes. The lighters were loaded with small wicker bas- 
kets, each with forty pounds of coal, which were passed up by 
gangs to the deck, and then carried on the heads of the runners 
to the bunker-shutes. These negroes kept up a noisy series of 
gymnastics in passing the coal ; they sang, shouted, and jumped 
around in the wildest excitement, which, in the oppressive sun- 
shine, seemed almost impossible. Their strange antics afforded 
great amusement to the ship's company, and their laughter encour- 
aged them to keep it up. They worked very well and filled our 
bunkers by three p.m. the next day, so that we received two hun- 
dred and five tons in less than sixteen hours. 

ZANZIBAR. 

Zanzibar is a country on the east coast of Africa, comprising 
the islands of Zanzibar, Pemba, Mafia, and other smaller islands, 
and the coast opposite to them from latitude 2° 30' N. to 10° 45' S. 
The word Zanzibar is a modification of Zinguebar, the name 
by which the country was originally known by the Portuguese 
traders. " Zing" was the old Arabic name of the East African 
negroes, and " bar" is the Persian or Indian word for country. 
The name is disused by the natives, but Europeans designate the 



170 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

entire country ruled by the Sultan or Seyid of Zanzibar by that 
name. 

The mainland has been but little explored back of the coast, as 
the Seyid's authority is scarcely recognized beyond the walled 
towns garrisoned by his troops. Stanley started on his exploring 
expedition into Africa from this coast. There are a number of 
small rivers on the coast, and the country watered by them is very 
fertile. All kinds of tropical productions are supplied, including 
sugar, cotton, coffee, cocoa, cloves, nutmegs, cinnamon, Guinea 
pepper, sesame, and indigo, besides maize, millet, and rice. The 
forests furnish valuable timber of caoutchouc and copal, and much 
fossil copal is dug in the country south of the island of Zanzibar. 
All kinds of tropical fruits and vegetables abound. The elephant, 
rhinoceros, lion, leopard, hippopotamus, several kinds of antelopes, 
and the crocodile are found ; and the rivers are well stocked with 
fish. Cattle, sheep, goats, and fowls are abundant. 

The principal towns on the coast held by the Seyid are Makdishu, 
Marka, and Barawa, in the Soumali country, and eight towns on 
the Gralla coast and to the southward. The island of Pemba has 
an area of two hundred and twenty-seven square miles, and that 
of Mafia two hundred square miles. Zanzibar Island, the head- 
quarters of the Arab power on the east coast of Africa, is the 
largest and most important of the many coralline islands border- 
ing the shore, and is the seat of most of the trade between this 
coast and the Arabian or Indian ports by sea, as well as that with 
the central parts of Africa by land. 

The sixth parallel of south latitude runs through the island, 
which is twenty-seven miles long in a north and south direction, 
and twenty-one miles broad at its widest part, which is the line 
east-northeast from the city. The island stands on a coral flat, 
the result of many years' action of the waves on the original steep 
low cliffs, which doubtless edged the island when first raised from 
the sea by upheaval. Parts of the island are most fertile, and 
tropical cereals, etc., grow profusely. In 1872 a fearful hurricane 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 171 

visited the island, which destroyed four-fifths of the cocoanuts, and 
levelled nearly all the groves of clove-trees. These are the principal 
productions, and they have hardly yet recovered from this loss. 

Unjuga, the chief city, generally called Zanzibar, is built on 
the west side of the island and has an excellent harbor. The 
houses are built on the lowland and are dazzling white in color. 
The sultan's palace and harem are conspicuous in the centre of 
the line of buildings facing the harbor. A tower, but little higher 
than the palace, rises from the pavilion in front and has an electric 
light on top. The mosque is a little to the rear of the palace, 
and is a very small building. The towers of the old fort are 
seen over a casemated water battery of 32-pounders west of the 
palace, and back on either side are the houses of the American 
and European consuls. The large square building on the point 
is the British consulate-general, formerly the Central African 
mission-house. These buildings along the water front give the 
city an imposing appearance from the harbor ; but they hide the 
meaner habitations of which the city is composed. There are no 
regular streets, and the houses are built in the most irregular order 
and have only narrow circuitous lanes between them, averaging 
from six to nine feet wide. It is quite rare to find a row of more 
than five or six houses, and these have short thatched projecting 
roofs over the doors, so that the space for pedestrians is still more 
curtailed. Carriages or vehicles are impossible in the heart of 
the city, and when one meets a camel or a cow coming in the 
opposite direction it is difficult to pass. It is absolutely necessary 
for strangers to have a guide to go through the town. The streets 
have a strong odor of cloves, and though they are swept clean, 
yet strong smells are quite prevalent. The bazaars are small, and 
no effort is made to display the wares for sale. The Hindis and 
Banyans do most of the native trade, while the American and 
European firms have most of the foreign trade. The American 
firms of Arnold, Hines & Co., of New York, Ropes, Immerton 
& Co., and George Ropes, of Boston, do the most extensive busi- 



172 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

ness in ivory, copal, rubber, and cloves ; tbis being tbe principal 
ivory market in the world. The trade with the United States in 
ivory, copal, and cloves in exchange for cottons, kerosene, and 
merchandise is about equal to one-half the entire foreign trade of 
the port, excluding that with India. These American firms have 
orders for twelve thousand pounds of ivory monthly, and they can- 
not begin to fill the orders. Ivory is very dear at present, worth four 
dollars a pound, and as it is becoming more and more scarce the 
price will continue to rise. The best qualities of ivory are sent 
to the United States for billiard-balls, ivory rings, and piano-forte 
keys, all designed in cutting to avoid waste, and this is so impor- 
tant that the tusks are selected for the various purposes required 
before being shipped from Zanzibar. The inferior qualities of 
ivory are sent to China. 

In 1872 the exports from Zanzibar amounted to two million 
five hundred thousand dollars, and the imports about the same. 
The exports of ivory amounted to seven hundred and seventy 
thousand dollars, of gum copal two hundred and eighty-four thou- 
sand dollars, and of cloves to two hundred and sixty-seven thousand 
dollars. 

The native industries are of the most primitive character. Co- 
coanut oil is made in conical stone pits, in which a long beam is 
worked to grind the meat to oil. A blindfolded camel is hitched 
to one end of the beam, and, in walking around the pit, causes the 
beam to squeeze the oil out of the cocoanut-paste in the pit. 
The action is the same as that which would be effected by a mor- 
tar and pestle. Flour is also ground by women, by means of two 
stones, in the same manner as described in the Bible. 

The history of Zanzibar and of the neighboring countries is 
merely that of a succession of Arabian conquests. One tribe con- 
quered the natives, and, by intermarriages, adopted their customs, 
by which they sank into the same effete condition as the natives ; 
other tribes came and pursued the same course, so that the effect 
of all is a race and language in which the Arabian and African 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 173 

elements are thoroughly mingled. The language most universal 
is the Swahili, that of the natives. A great many negroes, espe- 
cially those who have been raised in the English Church, Central 
African Mission, speak English. 

The present sultan is the Seyid Burghash of Zanzibar, Bin 
Seyid Bin Sultan, who succeeded his older brother Majid in 1870. 
His father was the Seyid Said of Oman as well as ruler of Zan- 
zibar. The eldest son, Thoweing, became Seyid of Oman, and 
Majid that of this country. The nobles are Arabians and the 
merchants chiefly Hindis and Banyans (Mohammedans and 
heathens from India). The lowest classes of the inhabitants are 
the natives from the interior, either slaves or free. It is difficult 
to distinguish the slaves from the free negroes, and it is common 
for slaves to pay their masters two dollars a month and then shift for 
themselves. The lowest wages for unskilled labor is eight pice a 
day, about six cents, which is sufficient for support. A laborer's 
clothing is made of a few yards of cotton-cloth or calico, like a 
long gown, and this lasts for half a year, while the ordinary food 
is cassava-root and salt shark. Skilled workmen receive about 
twenty-five cents a day, which, considering the relative cost of 
support, is very good. Besides these there are the people of She- 
her, who do all the work requiring energy and strength, people 
from the Comoro Islands, Madagascar, many representatives from 
East Indies, Turks, Persians, Belochees, and Abyssinians, a few 
Europeans, and six Americans. 

The better classes of the citizens of Zanzibar lead very idle 
lives. The usual course of a day for a man is something like this : 
Soon after daylight he rises and goes through his devotions, after 
which he lies or sits in his bed (a frame supporting a grass mat, 
laced by cocoanut cords) until ten or eleven o'clock. Every house 
has a seat called " bareza" outside the door, where the master 
spreads a mat and awaits callers. At noon they have a meal con- 
sisting of rice, fish cooked with currie, or, for the richer classes, 
fowl, sweetmeats, and fruit. In the afternoons the " society" men 

12 



174 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

dress and scent themselves and go out calling. Coffee is served 
in the afternoon, and at sunset they have their evening devotions 
and another meal as before. In this connection it should be re- 
membered that the sun rises and sets within twenty minutes be- 
fore and after six o'clock all the year round, and the clock on the 
tower and all timepieces of the citizens are set so that it is twelve 
o'clock at sunrise, six o'clock at noon, and twelve o'clock at sunset, 
the sultan's clock being regulated to the time of sunset about once 
in every ten days. 

The women are even more idle than the men, their only recog- 
nized employment being a little cooking and sweetmeat-making. 
Men do all the needle-work and dressmaking, and there are but 
few women who know how to do it. The richer women pass the 
greater part of their time lying abed, being fanned by slave girls. 
They cannot read nor write, and are kept in the greatest igno- 
rance. A widow cannot inherit any of her husband's property, 
all of which must go to his sons, though some of the nobles pro- 
vide for their wives handsomely by giving them jewelry and per- 
sonal property sufficient to support them for life. The lower 
classes of women are laborers like men, chiefly employed in 
plaiting mats and as water-carriers, numbers of whom are seen 
in all the thoroughfares with large water-jugs on their heads, 
going to and from the reservoirs. 

The population of the entire country is about two hundred and 
fifty thousand, of whom eighty thousand live in the capital. The 
negroes, both slave and free, form the working class, and number 
about two hundred thousand, of whom fifty thousand live in the 
city. 

The water-supply reflects great credit on the intelligent policy 
of His Highness Sultan Burghash. A small stream of pure 
spring water, near the city, is conducted through water-pipes to 
the sultan's palace, with branch pipes to various parts of the city, 
where small reservoirs are placed, from which pure water can be 
drawn through faucets, the overflow from the reservoir being led 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 175 

down to the beach. Men-of-war's steam-launches are supplied 
with fresh water, free of charge, by connecting a length of hose 
to the reservoir faucets. 

The heavier articles of merchandise, etc., are transported by 
being slung from the centre of a long pole and carried by one or 
two porters at each end. The lighter articles are invariably car- 
ried on the head. There is a narrow tramway near the palace, 
the carts of which are drawn by oxen, which is now used for 
transporting stone for the sultan's new harem. It is also used for 
bringing in cloves for shipment, in season. 

The sultan owns all the carriages in the city, about seventy-five 
in all, which he kindly sends to the foreign consuls whenever they 
desire. There are but few horses, excepting those owned by the 
sultan, but donkeys are quite plentiful. 

Slave-trade was abolished by Seyid Burghash in 1873, and spe- 
cial treaties were ratified with England for that purpose in 1875 
and 1876. Slaves, however, are surreptitiously introduced by 
" dhows" from the coast, though many are caught, from time to 
time, by the British cruisers. A special treaty with England has 
been signed, by which slavery will be totally abolished on August 
4, 1889. The English Universities Missions are doing excellent 
work in the providing for the slaves which are rescued from the 
slave " dhows." This mission was established in Zanzibar in 
1864 by Bishop Tozer, and it has made great progress in Chris- 
tianizing the coast country of Central Africa. In Zanzibar the 
mission has now a fine large church building on the site of the 
old slave-market, with schools for infants, girls and boys, in con- 
nection with which there are workshops, printing-office (the only 
one in that country), and gardens at the mission farm of Mbweni, 
a dispensary and school for children of the town. There are ten 
mission stations on the mainland, which include the district as far 
west as Lake Nyassa. The Roman Catholics also have a mission 
centre in Zanzibar under the auspices of the French clergy, and 
their work, in Central Africa and in the city, is very prosperous 



176 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

and beneficial in Christianizing the African negroes. The plan of the 
missionaries is to teach the natives to become missionaries themselves 
if competent ; those who are not, are taught some trade in the work- 
shops by which they can support themselves. These freed slaves, 
thus Christianized, will then eventually form self-supporting com- 
mutities, and assist as missionaries to their native homes. 

The sultan has six steamers purchased from British steamship 
companies, which he uses for transporting cloves and for the pil- 
grimages of the Mohammedans to Mecca. He also has one 
armed steamer, the " Glasgow," from which salutes are fired. 
The mail communication is monthly by steamers to Aden, and 
another line to Mozambique. One month is occupied by post to 
the United States via the Red Sea and Europe. 

The climate of Zanzibar is much healthier than generally be- 
lieved, and its sanitary condition compares favorably with that of 
most tropical cities in the world. The thermometer ranges from 
seventy-six to eighty-three degrees all the year round, and ex- 
tremes are unknown. The southwest monsoons blow from May 
to November, and this season is remarkably pleasant. The north- 
east monsoons come after a rainy season in December, and are fol- 
lowed a little later in March by a second rainy season, which is 
the most unfavorable of the year. The climate is, however, de- 
bilitating, and the missionaries and agents of mercantile houses 
rarely remain for more than three years without going home to 
recuperate. 

THE HOSPITALITY OF THE SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR. 

In view of the fact that the most friendly relations have always 
existed between the United States government and that of His 
Highness Sultan Burghash, and especially that the former only 
desires to cultivate this friendship by a mutually beneficial trade 
and commerce, the sultan felt particularly desirous to manifest 
his regard for the United States, upon the arrival of the " Brook- 
lyn," and took a great deal of pains to extend a cordial welcome 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 177 

to Commodore Phelps, Captain Weaver, and the officers of the 
ship. An official reception was arranged through Mr. Cheney, 
the United States consul, for 9.30 a.m., Friday, December 28, 
which was attended with a great deal of Eastern ceremony. 

The commodore, with the entire staff and as many officers as 
could be spared from the ship, assembled at the United States 
consulate and walked to the palace through the open ranks of a 
long line of Arab soldiers. Upon arriving at the pavilion in 
front of the palace, they were received by the regular army, con- 
sisting of fourteen hundred men, under the command of General 
Matthews, formerly a lieutenant in the English navy. These 
troops were drawn up in line and presented arms, while the band 
played our national air. A salute of thirteen guns was fired in 
honor of Commodore Phelps, which was then promptly returned 
by the " Brooklyn." 

The party entered the palace and were conducted up a flight of 
stairs, at the head of which they met the sultan, and were all 
presented to his highness, after which they went into the diplo- 
matic reception-room. The sultan then came in and took a seat 
at the head of the room. The American officers had seats in 
order of their rank on the left side, while a party of Arab nobles 
sat in the same order on the right ; the commodore, Captain 
Weaver, and the United States consul being nearest the sultan, 
with whom they carried on some conversation through an inter- 
preter, and expressed the friendly sentiments entertained by both 
nations. The sultan's cup-bearer then came in with a corps of as- 
sistants, Arab noblemen, and handed around sherbet to the sultan 
and the officers. After drinking the sherbet the assistants left the 
room and returned with black coffee, which they served in deli- 
cate china cups with golden holders. After this they came in 
again with bottles of attar of roses, which they poured on the 
officers' handkerchiefs. The sultan then rose and walked to the 
head of the stairs, followed by the officers, who shook hands with 
the sultan and took their departure. The troops outside came to 



178 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

" present arms," while the band struck up our national hymn. 
The officers then returned to the ship. 

The sultan had previously arranged to give the officers a grand 
dinner at the palace, which took place at eight o'clock the same 
evening. Elaborate preparations were made, and the dinner was 
a very sumptuous repast. The bill of fare and programme of 
music were nicely printed on card-board, with Arabic edging and 
the sultan's monogram at the head of the list in gilded Arabic 
characters. It was an elegant European dinner of twenty-two 
courses, with four iced puddings as a specialty. These were 
named by the sultan himself in honor of " The Republic," Presi- 
dent Arthur, and the Honorable Secretaries Chandler and Freling- 
huysen, in lieu of toasts. 

The officers were received in one wing of one of the palaces, 
and from there conducted by the sultan to the dining-room. This 
was in a long corridor, which opened upon an inner court in which 
the bands of music were stationed. The sultan sat in the centre 
with Commodore Phelps on his right, Mrs. Cheney on his left, 
Captain Weaver and the United States consul directly opposite. 
The other officers, sixteen in all, occupied seats according to rank, 
more or less remote from his highness. Three of the highest Arab 
dignitaries occupied one end of the table, and the sultan's brother, 
with the rich Hindi merchant, Mr. Taria Topin, at the other. 

The room was beautifully trimmed with flowers, branches of 
palms, and tropical plants. The table looked very attractive with 
silver candelabra, containing red, white, and blue wax candles, 
handsome bouquets of flowers, and very elegant cut-glass decan- 
ters and goblets. At each place there were three decanters of 
iced sherbets of different flavors ; no wines were served at any 
time, being prohibited by the Koran. Each one had one gold 
knife, fork, and spoon, and others of silver. The china was ex- 
ceedingly handsome, probably from India. A Portuguese band 
in the sultan's employ played selections from operas, etc., like a 
European band, and alternated with an Arab band which played 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 179 

distinctive Arab airs, which sounded wild and weird. A chorus 
of men also sang " The Ked, White, and Blue," with band accom- 
paniment, and as a special compliment the American drinking- 
song, " For he's a Jolly Good Fellow," learned for the occasion. 

After dinner they were conducted over a covered way to the 
private palace, and on to the third-story balcony, from which they 
viewed a magnificent display of fireworks, coffee being served at 
intervals, but no cigars, as Arab Mohammedans do not smoke. At 
the departure they scented the officers' handkerchiefs with attar 
of roses, as in the morning, and the sultan accompanied them 
down-stairs, and cordially shook hands with each one as he bade 
them good-night. The officers returned on board at midnight 
heartily pleased with the entertainment. 

The next day the sultan arranged for a pleasant afternoon drive 
to his summer palace, three miles from the city. The officers met 
at the consulate and took carriages in the nearest street wide 
enough for vehicles. They drove to a harem near the city, where 
they met the sultan on the steps. The officers were conducted 
to a large room, handsomely carpeted and hung with Persian 
tapestry. A large marble basin occupied the centre of the room, 
and everything indicated great Oriental luxury. The official re- 
ception of the commodore and officers took place in one of the 
side rooms, and in another they were served with ices, cake, sweet- 
meats, and fruit. From this room they were conducted through 
a beautiful garden, and after an admiring inspection went on to 
the gate, where the sultan's carriage and the whole cortege of 
fifteen carriages awaited them, in which they were driven to a 
country palace, three miles out of town. The sultan rode alone 
in a very handsome European barouche, drawn by four beautiful 
full-blooded gray Arab steeds. His carriage was surrounded by 
sixteen of his mounted body-guard, armed with lances and car- 
bines. Commodore Phelps, the United States consul with his 
wife, and Dr. Burbank occupied the second carriage, very similar 
to the first, with two footmen. The officers and some Arab noble- 



180 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

men occupied the other carriages, drawn by two horses. The 
road was good, and the drive through the luxuriant tropical 
country very enjoyable. The party quickly arrived at their des- 
tination, and were conducted through the palace, which was the 
most handsomely furnished of all they had seen. After this they 
went to a long low building used solely as a dining-room, in which 
they were served with coffee, sherbet, and fresh cocoanuts from 
neighboring palms, each containing a lump of ice. The milk was 
drank from the cocoanut, as is the custom in the country. The 
sultan then excused himself because of the time for evening 
prayer, and requesting the officers to make themselves at home in 
the gardens and palace, withdrew to his carriage and to the 
mosque in town. The officers then walked around the gardens 
and enjoyed every moment in this delightful paradise, but had to 
leave to return on board by sunset. We expected to have a visit 
from the sultan on board ship. His highness was unfortunately 
taken ill the evening before the day appointed for his visit, and 
his health did not permit his making the visit during our stay in 
the port. 



CHAPTER XL 

Departure for the Comoro Islands — Arrival at Johanna — Description of the 
Comoro Islands — Arrival at Nossi Be — A Sugar Plantation at Nossi B<3 — 
Arrival at Majunga, on the West Coast of Madagascar — Visit to a Sakalava 
Queen — Effects of the French Bombardment — Arrival at Mozambique — De- 
scription and History of Mozambique — The African Explorations — Discov- 
ery of Makala Bay — The Great Importance of this Valuable Harbor — India- 
rubber Trees. 

Homeward bound ! But only indirectly. The new year 
began its course, and while we exchanged the usual salutations 
upon its advent, the happy thought, that it would find us home 
again, brightened these congratulations immensely. The Ameri- 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 181 

can consul and his wife, Mrs. Cheney, all the Americans, and a 
number of the Europeans in Zanzibar visited the ship and added 
a great deal to our appreciation of the day. It was something to 
keep us in communion with those at home, for they were doubt- 
less exchanging the compliments of the season, and so were we. 

The next day, January 2, we received a deck -load of coal in 
bags and made preparations for sea. We got under way at 9.20 
A.M. on the 4th and started to go down the channel, in between 
the coral reefs and islets which form the harbor. We had scarcely 
gone a mile from our anchorage when it became so thick that we 
could not see to steer clear of the dangers, and were obliged to 
anchor to avoid running any risks. Parting salutes had been ex- 
changed with the sultan's flag-ship, but we had to remain in our 
new anchorage and wait, all routine of duty being virtually the 
same as if we were at sea. It rained nearly all day and night, but 
cleared somewhat about dawn on the 5th, when we got under way 
again and steamed out through the channel. We proceeded on a 
course for Johanna Island, and made the passage without any 
special incident. We passed in sight of Comoro Island Monday 
evening, and early next morning, January 8, we sighted Johanna 
and stood in for the anchorage off " Brown's gardens." 

We expected to be obliged to salute the sultan's flag, more es- 
pecially when we saw a frowning fortress on a hill above the town. 
But we had scarcely anchored when General Drahman Oman 
came on board to extend the usual offers of courtesy and welcome, 
and also to inform us that they had no powder wherewith to re- 
turn a national salute. The " general" is quite a character, an 
Arab with considerable African blood. He spoke English very 
well and was eager to tell us all he knew, and a great deal more, 
to express his delight at our visit. The general was especially 
devoted to Americans. He liked American whalers ; and his 
boat, in which he had, he said, done many gallant deeds, had 
come from the last whaler which had visited the port two years 
ago. He was very polite, and extended most cordial invitations 



182 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

for the officers to make themselves at home at his house whenever 
they might go ashore. The weather was very unfavorable, and 
frequent rain-squalls deterred many from going, but those who 
did go found a cordial and hospitable reception at his house. The 
surgeons were especially welcome ; and, there being no doctors in 
the town, they had an opportunity of alleviating some suffering, 
for which they went ashore prepared. The Duke Abbiss, a cousin 
of the sultan, and many of his relations will probably remember 
the " Brooklyn" for some time. 

Dr. Wilson paid his respects on board the next afternoon, and 
was anxious for a party of officers to visit his plantation. The 
distance was too great for them to make this visit before sunset 
of that day, and we sailed so early the next morning that there 
was no opportunity to take advantage of his hospitality. 

The general was one of the last to bid us good-by, but said he 
" must" come on board the next morning, and yet he didn't. His 
astonishment to hear that we had left at daylight, before he could 
beg for any more presents, can only be conjectured. 

The passage to Nossi Be was made under steam alone, and 
only occupied thirty hours. The harbor is quite large, and we 
anchored at 11.40 A.M. about three-fourths of a mile from a jetty 
which runs out to enclose a small harbor for small vessels. The 
view from the ship was very pleasing. The harbor is partially 
enclosed by a rolling country, and being in the possession of the 
French, betokened somewhat more of modern civilization than the 
other ports we had just visited. The native village of Anaban- 
orou is situated on low land at the head of the bay, between the 
high bluff hills of Loucou-Be and Mahatinzo Point. The French 
settlement is on the left ; and its most conspicuous feature is the 
residence of the commandant on the crest of the hill above the 
jetty, and just in rear of a small earthwork containing five small 
brass howitzers for saluting purposes. The French government 
have a stone structure for coal (Cardiff bricks), of which they had 
nine thousand tons neatly piled inside the building. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 183 

The village itself is very sparsely settled ; one wide main road 
leads up for about a mile to a reservoir, which supplies the village 
with water by mains led down this street. The reservoir is fed 
by an open aqueduct from a spring in the range of hills back of 
the town. A stone cathedral, schools for boys and girls, and the 
barracks (a large high building enclosed by a high stone wall) 
form the principal features of the town. Beyond this point a few 
native houses were scattered here and there, and line the roadside 
out to the reservoir. An old stone fort, with re-entering angles 
and circular towers with loop-holes for sentries, old guns here and 
there on the partial ruin, spoke eloquently of former struggles 
with the Sakalavas, and as we looked up the two roads, which at 
this point diverged from the street, we almost fancied the Saka- 
lavas were coming, and involuntarily turned to see how well the 
fort commanded the approaches. 

The usual salutes and visits were duly exchanged with the 
French authorities, and every courtesy was kindly extended by 
the people. Mr. R. W. Childs, an American, the agent of the 
firm of George Ropes, of Boston, was among the first to call, and 
he did all in his power to make our stay as pleasant as possible. 
Mr. Messioner, the president of the French Club, extended a po- 
lite invitation for the officers to accept the hospitality of the club, 
and they were very much indebted to him and the club for this 
courtesy. 

Besides the sugar plantations, this place is a depot for the 
American firms of George Ropes, of Boston ; Ropes & Co., Ar- 
nold, Hines & Co., of New York, represented by Mr. Rider; the 
firm of Roux de Fraissenet, of Marseilles ; and Oswald & Co., of 
Hamburg, all of whom export hides and rubber to Europe and 
the United States, and import cottons, kerosene, and general mer- 
chandise in return. The French war with Madagascar had, how- 
ever, ruined trade, and there was scarcely any business on this 
account. 



184 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

THE COMORO ISLANDS. 

These comprise the four volcanic islands of Comoro, Mohilla, 
Johanna, and Mayotta, in the northern part of the Mozambique 
Channel, between the east coast of Africa and Madagascar. Comoro, 
or Angazicha, the largest and highest of the group, is thirty -five 
miles long north and south, and from ten to twelve miles broad. 
It is inhabited by mixed races, — Arabs, Africans, and Madagas- 
car, — and is governed by independent chiefs or sultans, each to 
a district, who are frequently at war with each other. Comoro 
Mountain is the highest mountain in the world as compared to the 
size of the island, reaching a height of eight thousand five hun- 
dred and twenty-six feet, and being visible in clear weather for over 
one hundred miles. It is volcanic, as is the whole island, and 
traces of the last eruption in 1858 are still seen by the lack of 
vegetation where the stream of lava had flowed. At the southwest 
part of the island ignited sulphurous vapors issue from crevices 
in the ground, and the natives have a superstition that this point 
is inhabited by devils, and they will not venture near at night. 

Mohilla is southwest of Comoro, and it is the least elevated of 
the group. It is fifteen miles long northwest and southeast, and 
seven or eight miles broad in its widest part. The natives are 
friendly and number about six thousand, one-tenth Arabs, and the 
rest mixed races. It is governed by a queen, a relative of the 
reigning family of Madagascar. The principal town is Douany, 
which is walled round and is situated near the beach. The site 
of the town on low land among the cocoanut palms has led to its 
being considered more unhealthy than Comoro. The queen's 
house and the mosque are respectable buildings, but nearly all the 
houses are mere grass or mud huts. 

The next island to the eastward is Johanna, often called An- 
jouana and Anzuani. This is next to Comoro in size and height, 
but far surpasses all in beauty and fertility. It is triangular in 
shape, with each side about twenty miles long. The land rises 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 185 

abruptly from the sea in narrow ridges to peaks of different heights, 
so that it has been aptly described to resemble a school-boy's " com- 
parative view of the mountains of the world." The scenery from 
the " Brooklyn's" anchorage beggars description. The valleys, en- 
closed by evergreen hills, seemed to invite us to rest among the 
luxuriant foliage. Here and there small cascades of cool moun- 
tain streams offered refreshment, and every variety of tropical tree, 
shrub, and flower displayed their charms for our entranced admi- 
ration. Makhadou, or Johanna town, is an Arab city of one thou- 
sand inhabitants, almost all of whom are African slaves or mixed 
races of Arabs, Madagascans, and negroes. The houses are built 
of stone for the most part, with narrow, circuitous streets, and the 
city is surrounded by a stone wall fifteen feet high. This is now 
merely a ruin. Vegetation is so luxuriant that trees take root in 
among the crevices of the stones in deserted walls and buildings, 
and soon grow to such proportions that the wall can no longer sus- 
tain them, when the whole mass tumbles to the ground. 

The island is governed by an independent sultan, who is an ally 
of the Sultan of Zanzibar. The present sultan is blind, and at the 
time of our visit was on his sugar plantation some distance out of 
town. The Arabs are diminishing in number, and, though slavery 
still exists, yet it is only in the mildest form, and treaties have 
been made by which it is agreed to abolish it altogether in August, 
1889. 

This island has been for many years a favorite resort for Ameri- 
can whalers, who used to obtain water, beef, fresh provisions, and 
fruit at very reasonable prices. The island is chiefly of interest 
to us as being the residence of an American planter, Dr. Wilson, 
who was a surgeon in our navy during the war of the Rebellion. 
Dr. Wilson has a large sugar plantation on the island, with five 
hundred acres of ground under cultivation. He produces from 
four to five hundred tons of sugar, which he sells at one hundred 
and thirty dollars per ton. He employs five hundred laborers, or 
one to an acre of cane. These laborers are slaves of the Arabs. 



186 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Dr. Wilson pays about eighteen dollars a year to their owners, six 
dollars to the slaves themselves, and it costs him about six dollars 
a year to feed and clothe them. The commissary department is 
certainly economical, but when one considers the abundance of 
fruit, the cheapness of rice (the principal article of food), and 
that two or three yards of calico a year suffices for a laborer's 
entire wardrobe, six dollars means six hundred cents, each one of 
which has ten mills, and is really something to these slaves. 

Dr. Wilson, on the other hand, seems prosperous, and has 
doubtless been well paid for his enterprise and industry. Fifty 
per cent, of the gross proceeds would not overestimate the profit 
derived ; but he has had enough and wants to sell out and return 
home again. The tropical beauty of this island, and the many 
other admirable qualities this and all these lands may possess, are 
surely good ; but what are they compared to our country, " the 
valley of graces," where each and everything holds out fresh 
charms ever more and more attractive until no sacrifice seems too 
great to return to them ? 

There are two other sugar plantations : that of the sultan, and 
one at Pomony, owned by an Englishman. These three planta- 
tions produce about two thousand tons of sugar annually. Coffee 
is also cultivated to a limited extent, but of a very superior qual- 
ity. The total value of the exports and imports amounts to 
about four hundred thousand dollars annually. There is very 
little commerce at present. One of the steamers of the Sultan 
of Zanzibar calls at irregular intervals, and the planters intend to 
subsidize Armange's line of steamers to call there monthly. Com- 
munication is maintained by dhows and small sail-boats which 
ply between the Comoro Islands and neighboring coasts. 

Mayotta, the easternmost of the group, is twenty miles long, 
north and south, and six or seven miles broad. Its inhabitants 
are of the same races as the others of the group, but being near 
the coast of Madagascar they were often a prey to Sakalavas. In 
1839 the only town was Zaoudzi, a natural fortress on the east 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 187 

side, governed by a Sakalava chief, Dansulu. The French took 
possession of the island in 1841, and established a military and 
naval colony on a small scale at Zaoudzi. The island is consid- 
ered very unhealthy, but it is prosperous, and the French colonists 
have been very successful in growing sugar-cane. Mayotta sugar- 
planters complain of the want of labor, and a treaty was signed 
on June 23 between France and Portugal, by which Mayotta and 
Nossi Be should be supplied with negroes from Mozambique, 
though they have not succeeded in obtaining any immigrants 
as yet. 

A VISIT TO A SUGAK PLANTATION AT NOSSI BE. 

Nossi Be, or Nos Beh, is a small island, fourteen miles long by 
nine and a half broad, off the northwestern coast of Madagascar. 
It was captured in March, 1841, by Admiral Hell, governor of 
Bourbon, who founded the French colony of Hellville. This 
colony is a depot for naval supplies, and the port is of considerable 
commercial importance for the trade with the natives on the 
neighboring coasts of Madagascar and adjacent islands. The 
principal industry is the production of sugar. The soil is very 
fertile, and there are fourteen thriving sugar plantations on the 
island. 

Mr. Charles Clain called on the officers of the " Brooklyn" 
during our visit at that place and extended a very cordial invita- 
tion for a party to visit his plantation the following day. This 
plantation is about twenty minutes' walk from the jetty, up through 
a small Sakalava village, to a valley beyond a range of hills back 
of the town. Mr. Clain received the party at his house, beauti- 
fully situated on the crest of the ridge overlooking the plantation, 
and after explaining the general details of his enterprise, con- 
ducted them over the estate to exhibit his mill and plantation. 

The view from the house disclosed a small valley of thirty-five 
acres of sugar-cane recently planted, and the opposite hill-side with 
the village of his forty-five negro laborers, who have been employed 



188 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

by contract for a certain term of years. The cane had been har- 
vested some time before this visit, and there was no one at work, 
but Mr. Clain carefully explained every detail and made the visit 
exceedingly interesting. The path down the hill to the sugar 
plantation was lined with coffee-trees, which Mr. Clain has ceased 
to cultivate for want of labor, and more especially since sugar 
is much more profitable. 

The method of planting consists in taking a piece of the old 
cane about six inches long with five joints ; two or more of these 
splints are placed horizontally in small holes in the ground, about 
six or seven inches below the surface. These holes are rectangu- 
lar, seven by four inches, and are kept weeded. The joints on 
the split produce shoots, which grow up so that each hole con- 
tains from ten to twenty-five canes. The holes are placed at 
regular intervals, and all the ground in the vicinity is carefully 
weeded, that the cane may have its full growth. The soil is so 
rich that fertilizers are unnecessary. The cane reaches perfection 
in the course of eight or nine months, and Mr. Clain has har- 
vested five crops in four years. The uniform temperature of the 
climate is such that there are no special months in which to plant 
or harvest. When the cane is cut it is carried to the mill, situ- 
ated at the base of the hill occupied by the negro village. 

The mill is a stone building, one hundred and fifty feet long by 
thirty-five wide, covered by a corrugated iron roof. The steam- 
boiler is placed outside in an adjoining house. The building is on 
the hill-side, and its floor is on three levels. The cane enters at 
the upper side and is crushed between iron rollers, which squeeze 
the sugar juices out into a small tank, whence they are conducted 
to two vats on each side of the next lower floor. Steam and sul- 
phuric acid are then introduced into the juice, by which most of 
the foreign ingredients are extracted. The syrup then flows into 
a second series of vats, and a copper boiler, where it is purified, 
and then conducted to four semi-cylindrical basins, in which a 
series of steam-pipes, arranged like four long squirrel-cages, revolve 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 189 

to heat and stir the syrup. This is a substitute for the vacuum- 
pans, and is much less expensive. The syrup is then led to the 
centrifugals, in which the sugar is granulated and deposited upon 
the sieves, while the molasses is allowed to flow into a series of 
tanks, built of masonry in the ground, thence to fermenting vats, 
and finally to the still and worm, where it is converted into rum. 
The grade of sugar produced depends upon the length of time the 
syrup is agitated in the centrifugals and the speed of revolution. 
The sugar is packed in plaited grass bags, each of sixty-five kilo- 
grams (one hundred and forty-three pounds), and shipped to Eu- 
rope. The rum is sold on the premises at eight and one-quarter 
cents a litre, and the demand is much greater than the supply. 
The water-supply is excellent, consisting of a small aqueduct, with 
mains about five hundred yards long leading from a small stream 
up the valley. The annual yield of sugar is about one hundred 
tons, the greatest being one hundred and twenty for the last years, 
which from thirty-five acres is much greater than the average of 
one ton per acre as obtained by slave labor at Johanna. The 
yield of rum has averaged twenty-four thousand litres annually. 

After having explained the process Mr. Clain led the party to 
another part of the estate, where he had a very fine garden with 
three hundred different varieties of trees and shrubs from all parts 
of the world, principally those indigenous to Australia and the 
Bast Indies. In this garden there were fourteen different kinds of 
rose-bushes, many in bloom, and all kinds of tropical fruit-trees, 
beside apple- and peach-trees from temperate climes. He also had 
a grove of palms in which there were species of every known va- 
riety. It is diflicult to express how much the party enjoyed this 
visit. Mr. Clain took a great deal of pains to explain everything. 
He spoke English fluently, without any perceptible accent, and 
his ingenuity and enterprise betokened so much of the admirable 
qualities of the Yankees that it was hard to believe that he was 
not one of our own countrymen. 

The " Brooklyn's" stay at Nossi Be was uneventful ; we had 

13 



190 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

some opportunities for drilling when it did not rain, and our rou- 
tine of duty was not interrupted. The band went ashore to the 
commandant's the afternoon before we left, and gave the people of 
the colony a short concert, which contributed to enhance the 
favorable impression of the " Brooklyn's" visit. At 7.55 A.M., 
Saturday, January 19, we got under way and proceeded to the 
port of Majunga, on the west coast of Madagascar. 

We experienced rainy weather with a disagreeable choppy sea, 
which delayed our arrival at Majunga until January 21. The 
shoals and reefs along the channel made the navigation of this 
coast exceedingly difficult, but we were mostly annoyed by the 
weather. The wet season had just set in, and it was decidedly 
moist. The rain poured in torrents, and it was hot and uncom- 
fortable. The French corvette " Forfait" and gunboat " Capri- 
corne" were at anchor in the harbor, and the French flag was 
floating over a fort at Amoronbato Point. 

The town of Majunga was in two separate parts : one, the Hova 
town, on the crest of the hill, and the other near the beach. The 
lower town extends a half-mile along the shore, and is composed 
of a number of whitewashed stone or brick houses, built by the 
Banyans and Hindis, who have a monopoly of the trade, and the 
grass huts of the Sakalavas. The Hova town has been completely 
destroyed, but it had two thousand inhabitants before the bom- 
bardment. The village was regularly laid out in the immediate 
vicinity of the governor's palace, which was a stone building of 
some pretensions. The Hovas are Christians, and a church and 
schools were conspicuous in the town. The crest of the hill is 
covered with a long line of intrenchments leading to the fort, and 
evidences of civilization much superior to that of the Sakalavas, 
Makuas, and other mixed African races were seen on every hand. 
The place was bombarded on the 16th of May, 1883, by a French 
fleet of five cruisers. The fleet arrived a little before sunset on 
the 15th and gave thirty minutes' notice to haul down the Hova 
flag from the fort, and two and a half hours' warning before they 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 191 

said they would commence the bombardment, which was, however, 
postponed until six a.m. the next day. Our cousul, Mr. Taylor, 
and Mr. Rider were invited to take refuge on board the French 
vessels, which they did that night. The Hovas evacuated the 
place, but a few stayed in the custom-house until about ten P.M., 
when the flag-ship turned on an electric light, which created such 
alarm that they fled immediately. The bombardment was unop- 
posed. The French fired at intervals of from five to ten minutes 
on each ship, and kept it up, with two hours' intermission about 
noon, until sunset. They fired about fifteen hundred shell in all 
and completely destroyed the town, though the fort, being an 
earthwork, was not so badly damaged. The lower town was but 
little damaged, and the Sakalavas, who are the allies of the 
French, took refuge in the stone warehouse of the French agency 
at Majunga Point, where they have since erected a grass village. 
The French had a garrison of twenty-five marines in this house 
and fifty in the fort. 

During the " Brooklyn's" stay in port salutes and visits were 
exchanged with the French as usual. The chief occupation was, 
however, to try to keep dry. Our consul (strictly, consular agent) 
was the only foreigner except the French and the Hindi in the 
place. His flag floated over his house, and he himself was very 
courteous and polite to the officers. 

A number of officers paid their respects to Queen Ananarino of 
the Sakalavas, at her residence near the French agency. The old 
lady must have been a beauty, and her features plainly indicated 
that she belonged to a race far superior to the Africans. Flag 
Lieutenant Phelps made a neat diplomatic speech, which was inter- 
preted by our consul and pleased her immensely. Her majesty's 
numerous staff crowded in the grass house, and all were pleased 
with the visit. 

We got under way on January 25, and steamed across the Mo- 
zambique Channel to the city of that name. We then found that 
the northeast monsoons blew from the northwest, and at this 



192 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

season were accompanied by a great deal of rain. We arrived off 
the harbor about three P.M. January 28, and anchored close to the 
fort at 4.30. 

Mozambique was discovered by Vasco da Grama in 1498, and 
this city was founded in 1508 by Tristan d'Acunha. The Portu- 
guese colonized the province, and the capital was of great impor- 
tance as an emporium between India and Europe. Fort Sebastian 
was built in 1508-11 ; it is seventy feet high and has eighty guns, 
and up to the invention of modern ordnance was a very formidable 
fortress. The stones were all brought from Lisbon, and the cement 
used was mixed with cocoanut oil. The Portuguese have ex- 
hausted legislation for emigration from Portugal to this colony. 
Among other projects there was a law giving princely estates to 
Portuguese ladies who should live in the province and marry 
Portuguese colonists, but this failed to improve the colony, and it 
has been declining ever since. It is now a penal colony, and con- 
victs from Portugal and her colonies pay the severest penalties for 
their crimes. They are employed in keeping the city clean and 
on other public works. There are few cities in the world which 
are kept so scrupulously clean. The sailing directions incorrectly 
state that it is very dirty. The " Brooklyn's" arrival was quite 
an event, as an American man-of-war at Mozambique is almost as 
rare as a comet. Salutes were exchanged with the fort, and the 
commander-in-chief and staff visited the governor-general. The 
latter, Count Coelho, very promptly returned the visit. He came 
off in a state barge, and was received by all the officers, and upon 
leaving received a salute of twenty-one guns. Royal honors were 
paid to him by the fort and Portuguese men-of-war as he passed. 

MOZAMBIQUE. 

Very little has been written about this country, although it has 
been in the possession of the Portuguese for nearly four centuries. 
They discovered the country in 1498, and formed settlements on 
the islands on the coast shortly afterwards, but their authority is 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 193 

scarcely recognized on the mainland ten miles back from the 
coast, except in one or two districts. The African explorations 
of Livingstone, and the more recent ones of Stanley and others, 
have excited considerable interest in the " Dark Continent," no 
part of which is less known than that claimed by Portugal as be- 
longing to the province of Mozambique. The colonial secretary, 
Mr. J. Almeida da Cunha, the British consul at Mozambique, 
Mr. H. E. O'Neill, and Captain A. de Castilho, of the Portuguese 
navy, kindly furnished the data from which the following article 
was compiled : 

The province of Mozambique is on the east coast of Africa, 
and extends from Cape Delgado in latitude 10.41° south to Delagoa 
Bay, in latitude 26° south. Its western boundary in the interior 
is indefinite. The government of the colony is administered by 
a governor-general and secretary at Mozambique, appointed by 
the crown, with a Junta composed of a president, treasurer, and 
twelve members, and two representatives in the Lisbon Cortes. 
There are seven sub-districts, each with separate governor and 
secretary, viz. : Quelimane, Tete, Lourenzo Marques, Cape Del- 
gado, Sofala, Angoche, and Inhambane. The population is abso- 
lutely unknown ; the colonial secretary estimates that of the city 
of Mozambique at twelve thousand, consisting of five hundred 
Portuguese, four hundred soldiers, eleven hundred Europeans and 
Banyans from India, and ten thousand negroes. The negroes will 
not allow a census to be taken, and when attempted several years 
ago at Ibo, it produced a riot among the inhabitants, who were 
afraid that they were being numbered in order to be enrolled in 
the army. The colonial secretary estimates the total population 
of the colony at two million seven hundred and thirteen thousand. 
The total revenue of the colony, derived from taxes and duties, 
was four hundred and forty-four thousand five hundred and three 
dollars for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1883, while the ex- 
penses of the administration for the same period were five hun- 
dred and ninety-five thousand one hundred and thirty-six dollars. 



194 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The colony is therefore a burden to Portugal ; but improvement 
is possible, because the neighboring colonies of Zanzibar on the 
north, and Natal south, with nearly the same conditions of soil 
and climate, give much larger returns : those of Zanzibar being 
three times, and those of Natal ten times, greater than those of 
Mozambique. 

The Portuguese have not settled the country, because, 1. Its un- 
popularity as the " white man's grave." 2. Competition in emi- 
gration with Brazil, the latter country being much more attractive 
for the Portuguese than this. 3. It being a penal colony, where 
convicts were known to be at large, deterred honest emigration. 
4. The search for gold to the exclusion of agriculture and settled 
industry, and, in later years, the slave-trade, have blighted all 
legitimate trade until now. The first three causes still operate to 
a certain extent, but the second and third need not do so any 
longer, and there is no doubt but that the first, the unhealthiness 
of the country, is greatly exaggerated, and can be improved if 
proper measures are taken. The Portuguese have not pursued 
the wisest course in colonizing the country. They have occupied 
outlying islands instead of the mainland, and have confined 
themselves to these military posts. 

Mr. O'Neill, the British consul, has done the world a great ser- 
vice in bringing to light some of the wonderful resources of this 
country. He has made four different journeys of exploration into 
the interior, besides several others along the coast. He returned 
from his last journey after .an absence of eight months on Feb- 
ruary 1, 1884. In this voyage he traversed fourteen hundred 
miles of unknown country, opened two new routes from Mozam- 
bique to Lake Nyassa, discovered the source of the Lujende River 
to be in Lake Amarambe, and found the valley of the Likugu 
River to be thickly populated by a hitherto unknown tribe of the 
Lomwe race of negroes. Mr. O'Neill visited Fernando Veloso 
Bay, only thirty-five miles north of Mozambique, in 1881, and 
explored what has been known as the Fernando Veloso River. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 195 

He found that this is not a river, but a land-locked arm of the 
sea, and is known by the natives as Makala Bay. As seen from 
the promontory, which, shooting out due west, narrows the en- 
trance to half a mile, the bay extends nine miles due south with 
a mean breadth of two miles. The western side is indented by 
several bays, which, in those places, increase the width across to 
four miles. The eastern shore rises from one hundred to two 
hundred feet high, and forms a peninsula about seven miles wide 
to shelter the bay from the sea, with the bold promontories almost 
cut out for settlement. The bay has an average and uniform 
depth of about eight fathoms, the surface is always smooth, there 
are no strong currents nor tortuous channels, and it is only sub- 
jected to the ebb and flow of the regular tides. Land and sea 
breezes render its tropical climate healthy ; and it is a wonder 
that such a spot so very favorable for colonization should remain 
neglected. The neighboring country is full of many species of 
rubber-trees, and forests of the macroos timber, so celebrated for 
its durability and imperviousness to the ravages of the white ant. 
Wild coffee grows in profusion, and the agricultural advantages of 
the country are immense. Mr. O'Neill's report on Makala Bay 
created great excitement in Lisbon, and Captain Castilho surveyed 
the bay and endorsed all reported by Mr. O'Neill. A colonization 
and trading company has been formed, which is to establish a 
settlement on this peninsula, which may eventually become the 
metropolis of East Africa. 

Lourenzo Marques is the most prosperous district. A railroad 
was being constructed to Pretoria in the Transvaal Bepublic, and 
it will bring the produce of the Boers to the sea. Sugar planta- 
tions have been partially successful, and cotton grows wild in some 
places, and in others is cultivated by the negroes, who use it for 
their own small purposes. Opium is cultivated in the Zambesi 
district, and coal is found in Tete. Tobacco is also grown by the 
natives, but though addicted to its use they do not know how to 
cure it. It is a regular article of sale and barter among them. 



196 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The only successful industries are the cultivation of the oil seeds 
amendoin and gergelim, which, with India-rubber, calumba-root, 
and orchilla-weed, form five-sixths of the exports. Ivory is scarce. 
Commerce with the United States is desirable ; they need our 
breadstuffs, kerosene oil, and manufactures in exchange for rubber 
and other produce. There is no American consul at Mozambique, 
and Americans are ignorant of its commercial advantages. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Madagascar — The Peculiarities of its Animal and Vegetable Life — The Re- 
markable Inhabitants — The History as furnished by Missionary Writers — 
Private Settlements — The Ascendency of the Hovas — Conversion to Chris- 
tianity — Reaction in Favor of Idolatry in the Reign of Bloody Ranavalona — 
Christianity of the Present Queen — Peculiar Customs of the Malagasy — 
Succession to the Throne confined to Female Members of the Royal Family 
— Status of the Prime Minister — Hova Houses — Sakalava Grass Huts — 
Mode of Reckoning Time — Native Dress — Cultivation of Rice — Peculiar 
Implements used — Malagasy Names — Government Employment without 
Pay — The Blood Covenant — Sakalava Medicine-Men — Hova Marriage Cere- 
mony — Hova Tombs — Description of Antananarivo — The War with France. 

MADAGASCAR* 

Madagascar is the largest and most important of the African 
islands. It is separated from Africa by the Mozambique Channel, 
which is two hundred and fifty miles broad in its narrowest part. 
The island is one thousand and thirty miles long from Cape Amber 
to Cape St. Mary, and averages about two hundred and twenty- 
five miles in width. Its total area is estimated at two hundred 
and thirty thousand square miles. The surface rises at short dis- 

* Compiled from James Sibree's "Madagascar and its People," copies of 
The Madagascar Times, published at Antananarivo, La Cloche, at Tamatave, 
and personal observations. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 197 

tances from the shore, with a range of hills to a lofty backbone of 
mountains, which stretch nearly the whole length of the island, 
approaching the sea in bold cliffs at the southern extremity. The 
island lies almost entirely within the tropics, extending from the 
twelfth to nearly the twenty-sixth degree of south latitude. The 
plains on the coast have a tropical climate and vegetation ; but the 
elevated plateau in the interior four or five thousand feet above 
the sea, and the insular position give a temperate climate to a 
greater portion of the country ; from June to August, in the in- 
terior, the thermometer frequently falls below the freezing-point 
at night, and the nights are always cool, even in midsummer. 
There are two seasons, the rainy season from November to April, 
and the cold and dry season the rest of the year. The rain is not 
continuous during the rainy season. The mornings and forenoons 
are generally fine, the rain coming in the afternoon with violent 
squalls and thunder-storms, often lasting during the entire night. 
These squalls are frequently accompanied with water-spouts, and 
the rain pours down with great violence. Hail-storms are frequent 
and often cause great damage. The coast region is generally un- 
healthy in the rainy season ; rank vegetation and stagnant water 
produce a deadly fever. Some of the elevated regions are also 
considered unhealthy, but these are exceptions. 

But little is known of the geology of the island. Granite, 
quartz, basalt, and large beds of clay are found on the east coast 
and interior. Iron and copper also abound. Rock-salt is an 
article of inland trade, and coal is said to exist in one portion, also 
limestone and slate. The soil of the valleys and coast is fertile, 
and would support many times the present population, estimated 
at about five million. The traveller's palm is one of its peculiar 
trees, so called because whenever an incision is made a stream of 
delicious, sweet cold water flows from the opening. The wood is 
used for building houses and domestic purposes. Ebony and 
mahogany are found in the forests. Mulberry-trees with silk- 
worms, tamarind, fig-trees, bamboo, and gum-copal trees are also 



198 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

common. The azaina is used for canoes, which are made by 
scooping out the trunk. Several species of rubber-trees are 
found. India-rubber is one of the principal exports to the 
United States. 

Rice, tobacco, sugar, cotton, indigo, various spices, cocoanuts, 
breadfruit, plantains, bananas, yams, pineapples, peaches, melons, 
pomegranates, citron, limes, grapes, guavas, oranges, mangoes, and 
a large variety of tropical and temperate fruits are produced all the 
year round. Coffee has been introduced and thrives well. Beauti- 
ful orchids, the lace-plant, and pitcher-plant are found, with a host 
of other varieties of vegetable life. 

Poultry of all kinds is abundant. Wild and tame cattle are 
numerous ; they have immense horns and prominent humps, as in 
India. The sheep are hairy and have fat tails like those at the 
Cape of Good Hope. Horses have been introduced. In the 
forests there are wild hogs, dogs, cats, small leopards, foxes, and 
squirrels. There are no true monkeys or apes. The four-handed 
mammalia is represented by the lemur. There were several of 
these on board ship. They are very pretty creatures, and have 
not the grotesque, half-human appearance of monkeys. The 
head, with its muzzle, is like that of a dog, and they have a long 
bushy tail, which is coiled round the back or neck when the 
animal is at rest. One species has alternate black and white rings 
on its tail ; another variety has a curious development of long 
white hair around the head like a ruffled night-cap. The lemurs 
are gentle and affectionate, and are often kept as pets, though 
they are very unintelligent. The aye-aye is another four-handed 
animal peculiar to Madagascar. It is somewhat like the monkey, 
and appears to be a connecting link between them and the roden- 
tia, or gnawing animals. It exemplifies an interesting provision of 
nature, in that as its food consists of a wood-boring larva which 
tunnels certain trees, it has powerful chisel-shaped teeth to cut 
away the outer bark, and a lengthened finger on its hands, which 
is diminished in thickness, with a hook-claw to use as a probe to 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 199 

pull the grub from the end of its hole. The eyes are large to see 
by night, the ears expanded to hear the grub at work in the tree, 
and the thumbs on its feet are large so that it can hold on while 
using its teeth. Crocodiles are very numerous, and in some parts 
are a great pest. They destroy numbers of sheep and cattle, and 
even human beings who incautiously go into the water. The 
Malagasy have a superstition which prevents them from killing 
them. Some French travellers once shot a crocodile in one of the 
series of lakes along the east coast near Tamatave, and excited 
such consternation among the people that they had to leave the 
neighborhood. Dogs have a sagacious way of deceiving these 
reptiles ; they say a dog will stand on the banks of a river for 
some time, and bark furiously to attract the crocodiles, and then 
run off as fast as possible to swim across at some distance up- 
stream. There is a peculiarly marked species of turtle, called the 
" geometric tortoise," and a great variety of crab, shell-fish, and 
oysters. Fossil remains of an immense bird called " rukh" and 
its egg have been found, the latter six times as large as the ostrich- 
egg. The birds are very odd, — the falcon, royal bird of the 
Hovas, called " voromahery," hawk, owl, blue pigeon, bronze 
goose, many species of teal, heron, kingfisher, duck, sea-gull, wild 
guinea-fowl, and chaffinch. There are many varieties of queer 
insects and beautiful butterflies. 

The Hovas eat caterpillars, but they deserve credit for making 
use of their threads. In parts of the country the caterpillars 
cover themselves with silky envelopes for protection against cold 
and rain, and some have cocoons in many folds. The country 
seems specially adapted for silk-culture. Mulberry-trees and the 
Chinese silkworm have been introduced, but the silk which is 
destined to be most abundant comes from the cocoon of a cater- 
pillar which feeds on a plant called " ambarivatry" in Malagasy. 
The Hovas boil the cocoons, then card and twine. The silk is a 
clear gray, thick, and without brilliancy. It is very strong and 
durable, and it is said that some has been taken from graves, 



200 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

where it had covered the dead for centuries and had lost none of 
its firmness. Venomous spiders, centipedes, and scorpions abound 
of peculiar character. In fact, the natural history of the island 
is very interesting and only partially known ; many new strange 
species of animal and vegetable life have been found, and there 
are probably others in unexplored districts. 

The origin of the inhabitants is still uncertain, but it is gen- 
erally believed that they belong to the Malayo-Polynesian race. 
Their physical appearance, habits, handicrafts, and language seem 
to establish this, while the southeast trades made the island quite 
as accessible as from the nearer coasts of Africa. There seem to 
have been two or three waves of immigration at different periods, 
and traditions exist of an earlier race than any now living, 
known as the Vazimba. The present inhabitants are divided 
into four chief divisions, — Hovas, about 900,000 ; Sakalavas, 
1,500,000 ; Betsileos, 1,600,000 ; and Betsimisarakas, 1,200,000. 
The Malagasy have graceful figures, and vary in color from all 
shades of fairness through brown and chocolate color to almost 
black in some cases. The hair of the lighter races is long, black, 
and shiny, and that of the darker people generally more frizzly 
and bushy. It is often arranged in regular rows of large fancy 
knots. The Hovas inhabit the central province of Imerina, and 
are the most advanced of all the different races. They are the 
lightest in color, some nearly white, but a little below the average 
height. The Betsileos are in the southern central districts, and 
the Betsimisarakas on the east coast. They are not much darker 
than the Hovas, but are much less intelligent and energetic than 
the latter. The Sakalavas have the finest physical development, 
and their quick, lively dispositions indicate mental ability, but the 
Hovas have handsomer features and more acute and subtle intel- 
lects. The Sakalavas live on the west coast, and, being nearest to 
Africa, many of them are tainted with African blood. Their 
superiority over negroes is, however, very decided, and in Nossi Be, 
where Makuas have been brought from Mozambique, the Saka- 




SAKALAVA WARKIOR AND BOATMAN. 
[From a photograph by Lieut. J. J. Hunker.; 




THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 201 

lavas keep apart in separate villages and look down upon the 
inferior race. 

The Hovas are the dominant race, and the government is an 
unlimited monarchy approaching despotism. The ascendency of 
the Hovas is of modern times. The inhabitants used to be 
divided into different independent tribes, with chiefs selected for 
ability and personal prowess. There was a certain amount of 
freedom in these tribes, and that feature is still preserved in the 
" kabarys," or national assemblies. A certain amount of free 
speech is allowed, but to avail must be strongly backed by public 
opinion if it reflects upon the government. The nation is begin- 
ning to assert itself, and, like European nations, has just passed 
through what might be called its feudal age. 

The Malagasy have no tradition of their earlier history, except 
a few vague accounts of the race of Vazimba. The existence of 
the island was first made known to Europeans in the thirteenth 
century by Marco Polo, who did not visit it, but learned of its size 
and position in Asia. It was discovered in 1506 by Lorenzo 
Almeida, son of the first Portuguese viceroy of India. Not long 
afterwards the Portuguese made a settlement in Anosy, the south- 
eastern province, but they were massacred by the natives. In 
1642 the French made an attempt to take possession of Mada- 
gascar and settlement in Anosy. Several expeditions were sent 
there, and for some years the French had considerable influence 
in the southern provinces, and claimed sovereignty over the whole 
island ; but the climate and wars with the natives compelled them 
to abandon it. In 1644 the English had a fort at St. Augustine's 
Bay, with a garrison of two hundred men, of whom one-fourth 
died of fever in two years and the settlement was broken up. 
Madagascar was then unmolested till the close of the seventeenth 
century, when it became a favorite resort of pirates, who, in time, 
under the lead of a Frenchman named Misson, formed a settle- 
ment and commonwealth, which they called Libertalia, on the 
northeast coast. After committing great depredations these buc- 



202 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

caneers were suppressed by powerful naval forces sent against 
them by several European governments. About 1745 the French 
East India Company took possession of the island of St. Mary's 
on the east coast, and made a settlement there, and in 1768 they 
established another colony at Fort Dauphin, at the southeast 
extremity of Madagascar. In 1774 the celebrated Hungarian 
adventurer, Count Beniowsky, attempted to conquer Madagascar, 
and met with considerable success, but his plans were frustrated 
by his violent death in 1786. 

At the beginning of the present century Madagascar was 
divided into a number of independent states, the most powerful 
of which was Imerina, the country of the Hovas. In 1808, 
Radama I. became king of Imerina on the death of his father, 
Impoima. This ambitious king was visited in 1816 by British 
agents, and in 1817 he negotiated a treaty with England by 
which he consented to suppress the exportation of slaves, on con- 
dition that England would indemnify him for the consequent loss 
of revenue by the annual payment of money, arms, and munitions 
of war to an amount of about ten thousand dollars. Some British 
officers were sent from Mauritius to drill his troops, and with the 
arms and discipline thus obtained, Radama I. was enabled to sub- 
due the whole island. In 1818 the London Missionary Society 
sent a number of missionaries and artisans to teach the people. 
The native language was reduced to writing, a grammar prepared, 
and the Bible translated and printed. In the course of ten years 
about fifteen thousand of the natives had learned to read, and a 
great many were converted to Christianity. Mr. Hastie, an Irish- 
man, resided several years at the capital as the British agent. 
His counsels tended to promote civilization, and had much weight 
with Radama I., who was humane and gentle in character. The 
king encouraged the missionaries ; infanticide and other cruel 
customs were abolished, and rapid progress was made in the use- 
ful arts and in education. The premature death of Radama I. 
in 1828 put a stop to the advance of Madagascar. He was sue- 



TEE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 203 

ceeded by his widow, Ranavalona I., who exerted herself to undo 
his work. The schools were closed, and the missionaries driven 
from the island in 1835. The influence of the idol-keepers, and 
of the supporters of divination and other superstitions, was re- 
stored to its former supremacy. The profession of Christianity 
by any of the natives was prohibited, and a violent persecution of 
the native Christians was commenced, in which many suffered 
martyrdom with heroic fortitude. 

The French were expelled from their settlements on the east 
coast in 1825 by Radama I., and again in 1831 by the queen's 
troops. In 1845 the English and French cruisers undertook to 
humble the Hovas, and, after fruitless conferences and attempts 
at negotiations, bombarded and burned Tamatave, and landed to 
attack the fort, but were repulsed with considerable loss. From 
this period all amicable intercourse between the French and Eng- 
lish and the Madagascans ceased for eight years, till, in 1853, 
commercial relations were renewed by the payment of an indemnity 
to the queen of the island. In 1846 the queen's son, then seven- 
teen years of age, embraced Christianity, and through his influ- 
ence Christian doctrines were more widely spread than ever ; but 
in 1849 a fresh persecution broke out, and several thousand per- 
sons were arrested and punished for their faith, some with death. 
In 1857 a conspiracy, organized by French emissaries, for the over- 
throw of the queen's government, led to another persecution of the 
Christians, in which two hundred persons were put to death. In 
1861 Ranavalona I. died, and was succeeded by her son Ra- 
dama II., who proclaimed liberty to all religions, released the 
Christian captives, and forbade sorcery and the poison ordeal. 
The English missionaries returned, and Christianity made great 
progress. In May, 1863, he was murdered, and his widow, Raso- 
herina, made sovereign. She was a heathen and a patron of the 
idols, but preserved liberty of worship. In 1867 a large memorial 
church in memory of the Christian martyrs was erected at the 
capital, Antananarivo. The queen died in April, 1868, and was 



204 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

succeeded by her sister, Ranavalona II., who publicly professed 
Christianity. Printing-presses have been established at the capital 
and Tamatave, churches and schools have multiplied, many old 
superstitions have been expunged, and rapid advances have been 
made in the useful arts and sciences. The Church of England 
has a missionary bishop at the head of the church. The Luther- 
ans, Roman Catholics, Methodists, Congregationalists, and Friends 
also have missions on the island, and now fully one-fourth the 
population profess Christianity. 

In 1867 and 1868 commercial treaties were made with Mada- 
gascar by the United States, England, and France, in which all 
recognized the sovereignty of the Queen of Madagascar over the 
whole island. There has been and still is a strong party of con- 
servatives in the kingdom who are opposed to the " vazahas" 
(white foreigners) ; these are they who cling to the old super- 
stitions, and in the recent treaty, ratified by the Malagasy embassy 
at Washington in March, 1883, Americans were granted the right 
to visit all parts of the kingdom, excepting three designated 
places, which clause was put in the treaty as a rigid concession to 
these conservatives. There are no restrictions upon commerce, 
except the payment of duties not to exceed ten per cent. Cows 
and timber may not be exported, nor ammunition or war material 
imported without the consent of the queen. 

On July 13, 1882, the queen died, and she was succeeded 
by Ranavalona III., a great-granddaughter of the aunt of Radama 
I. and the widow of a nephew of the late queen. Her title is 
" Ravanalomanjaka III., Mpanjaka ny Madagaskara," which words 
are sewed on a white flag in red letters, to form the national en- 
sign. The coronation of the present queen took place at Antana- 
narivo on 22d of November, 1882, which date was the queen's 
twenty-second birthday. The Madagascar official gazette of De- 
cember 1 describes this coronation ceremony, and also gives the 
proclamation of the queen and prime minister, in which they express 
their determination never to accede to the demands of the French. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 205 

Madagascar is thus gradually emerging from her childhood in 
the family of nations, and will soon take her place with the rest 
in the onward march of human development towards the goal of the 
Divine intelligence ; to our Father, in whose Image we were cre- 
ated, and in whose likeness all will be perfected. It is to be re- 
gretted that this growth should be impeded by any misunderstand- 
ing with an older and wiser nation, and more especially with the 
French republic, with whom the United States is also closely 
bound by the most cordial ties of friendship. We hope peace may 
be speedily re-established to the mutual satisfaction of both parties. 
The French ultimatum presented June, 1882, makes the following 
claims: 1, a French protectorate over the northwest coast of Mad- 
agascar ; 2, the payment of an indemnity of one million five hun- 
dred thousand francs ; 3, a modification for the benefit of French 
settlers, of the Madagascar laws relating to the tenure of landed 
property. The Madagascar government rejected this, upon which 
the French fleet bombarded and captured the port of Tamatave 
on June 9, 1883, and held it in a state of siege when we were 
there. 

This closes the history up to the present time, and an idea of 
the civilization of the Hovas may be formed from the following 
incident of the French war : When the first intimation of hostili- 
ties reached the capital on May 24, eight days after the bombard- 
ment of Mojanga, the ofiicers at the palace requested the queen 
to order all French subjects in the capital to leave at once. The 
queen said, "No, the French say we are only barbarians, and if 
we do as you suggest that will prove that we are. But we are not 
barbarians. We are Christians, and must remember, even at this 
trying time, that we are so, and act as becomes Christians. They 
gave our friends at Mojanga one hour. We will give their friends 
five days, and not a hair of their heads, remember, is to be harmed. 
If they cannot get filanjana-bearers to take them to the coast, I 
will provide them with bearers and safe conduct to Tamatave." 

A filanjana is a Madagascar palanquin. There are no vehicles 

14 



206 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

or roads in the country, and the traveller is carried in a filanjana 
by four bearers. This is an iron-framed seat covered with leather 
and stuffed, and hung from the centre of a couple of light poles 
of tough wood about eight feet long. For women a basket of rofia 
palm is substituted. 

MALAGASY CUSTOMS AND INDUSTRIES. 

The military success of Radama I. increased military influence 
over all others. Public offices have been given to army officers in 
preference, and the exaltation of the military over civilians still 
continues. The troops are more like a militia than a regular 
army. They receive no pay, and nearly two-thirds of the whole 
native male population are enrolled. The grades of military ranks, 
and also those of all other officials, are reckoned by numbers, com- 
mencing with one honor for a private soldier, two for a corporal, 
three for a sergeant, and so on up to thirteen for a field-marshal. 
Individual officers are mentioned as a tenth-honor man or fourth- 
honor man as may be. Additional honors have been conferred 
since for special services, the sixteenth honor being the highest. 

The succession to the throne is confined to the female members 
of the royal family, but the sovereign is chosen by the head-men 
of the nation, who form the cabinet. The present prime minister 
is not of royal birth and cannot become king, but there is no doubt 
but that he directs the policy of the government, and is married 
to the queen. When a Malagasy sovereign succeeds to the throne 
an oath of allegiance must be taken by all persons of distinction. 
There are three forms of oath : the " Lefonomby," — spearing the 
calf; " Velirano," — striking water; and "Hasina," — presenting 
silver coin. In the first spears are stuck into the carcass of a 
young calf just killed, and the persons sworn, assent by violently 
shaking these spears, while a judge repeats a certain form of oath. 
In the second, assent to the oath is given by the parties striking 
a pool of water with boughs, in which rice-chaff, flowers of certain 
trees, a musket-ball, and some other things had been previously 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 207 

thrown. In the third a silver dollar is presented to the sovereign. 
This last ceremony is done on all state occasions. 

Malagasy society is divided into three great ranks : the first, 
that of the Andrians, or nobles, are the descendants of former in- 
dependent sovereigns, and some are still allowed certain privileges, 
among which the right to carry a scarlet umbrella, and to construct 
a different kind of tomb from that of people generally. The An- 
drians are the old hereditary nobility, but they are poor and do 
not have the influence of the higher " voninahitra" (honor men). 
The prime minister, Rainilaiarivony, is not an Andrian, but his 
family had great influence for many generations. The second class 
is composed of the Hova commoners, or free people, who are sub- 
divided into the borizano (civilians) and miaramila (or military). 
All these are liable to do all kinds of government work. They 
are sent to cut timber, quarry stone, and build houses for the ser- 
vice of the government without pay. This service is somewhat 
oppressive, but it is rendered in lieu of taxes, and the burden is 
generally shifted on to the next lower class. The third are the 
slaves ; but Malagasy slavery is of a domestic nature, and the 
slaves are treated as inferior members of the family to which they 
belong. There are three classes of slaves : the Zaza-Hovas, who 
are of the same stock as the Hovas, and became slaves by debt, 
political offences, and certain crimes. The second class are the 
Andevos, the descendants of those who were captured in the wars 
of Radama I. The third class are Makuas, negroes who were 
brought in " dhows" by Arab slave-dealers and sold to the Mala- 
gasy. This class was formally set free in 1877, but many of them 
still remain with their former owners. 

The structure and arrangements of native houses vary in differ- 
ent parts of Madagascar. A Hova house is generally oblong, of 
a breadth about two-thirds its length. It runs north and south, 
and the door and windows are always on the west side, sheltered 
from the prevailing southeast trade-winds. Hard clay is used as 
a kind of adobe by the Hovas, but planks are more common. In 



208 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

these the planks are upright and grooved at the edges. The tim- 
bers are placed close together, and pieces of the tough fibrous bark 
of the fern-tree are stuck between each plank. The door is made 
solid of one piece of wood, and instead of hinges has a projecting 
piece at the top and bottom, let into a socket in the lintel and 
threshold. A wooden shutter is provided for the window, with a 
piece of cotton or muslin instead of glass, of which there is none. 
The old-fashioned roof has an enormously high pitch ; three stout 
poles from the floor support the ridge, and rafters are brought 
down from the ridge to wall-plate. A slender bamboo framework 
is then tied on by stout grass, after which the thatch is laid on, 
in regular sets, often a foot thick. The gables are also thatched 
and have outside rafters, which are crossed and project above for 
several feet. These last form house-horns, and in some of those of 
the wealthy people have ornamental figures of a bird carved on 
them. There is no chimney, and the smoke finds its exit through 
a small hole in the north gable. 

Some of the grass houses built by the Sakalavas are very 
pretty when new ; they are built of the stems of palm-leaves, 
placed upright in the ground a few inches apart. Round holes 
are cut in these uprights for smaller horizontal stems to run 
through and form the body of the walls, while the space is filled 
up with palm-leaves. In one which we saw at Mojanga, consid- 
erable taste was displayed in the arrangement of the palms, which 
were cut like a half of a palm-leaf fan and placed diagonally be- 
tween the frames in regular rows. Other horizontal stems are 
placed on the inside, and all parts are tied together with cocoanut 
fibre to give solidity to the wall. The roof is supported by end 
poles, and the gable walls project about a foot outside the other 
two. The floor inside is generally of hard clay and often matted ; 
no chairs or tables are seen, but a clean mat is brought out and 
unrolled for visitors to sit upon. The arrangement of the interior 
is exactly the same for nearly all houses. The bed occupies the 
northeast corner. The hearth is near the northwest corner, and 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 209 

consists merely of a few stones for supporting the cooking utensils. 
The smoke covers the inside of the roof with soot in long pen- 
dants, which they will not remove, because it is an evidence of the 
long occupation of the dwelling, — a social aristocratic distinction. 
The Malagasy are complimented when mentioned as " the ancient 
soot." The rice-bin has its peculiar place in the southeast corner, 
and sometimes there is a box for clothes and valuables. Fowls 
and pigs are often at home in the southern part of the house. 

In speaking of the direction of places, the Malagasy always 
refer to the compass bearing north, east, south, or west as may be, 
and never use the terms to the " right or left," " above or below," 
etc. Before the introduction of clocks and watches, which are 
still very rare except among the wealthy at the capital, time was 
marked by the points reached by the sun's rays in different parts 
of the house through the day. The following will incidentally 
convey an idea of the habits of life : 

Daybreak .......... about 6 o'clock. 

The dew is dry " 7 " 

Feed cattle " 8 " 

Sunshine on the roof " 9 " 

The day is wide open " 10 " 

Sun at doorstep " 11 " 

Sun over the ridge ........" 12 " 

Sun shines in the door ......." 1 " 

Sun shines on rice mortar ......." 2 " 

Sun on east wall " 4 " 

Collect cattle " 5 " 

The red sun " 5.30 " 

Sunset " 6 " 

Cook rice " 7 " 

Eat rice " 8 " 

Gun-fire at the capital ......." 9 " 

People lie down " 10 " 

Midnight " 12 " 

Frog croaking . . . . .' . . . " 3 " 

Cock crowing " 3.30 " 

Seen the color of cattle " 5.30 " 

The east is light " 5.45 " 



210 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The year is divided into twelve months or moons, of twenty- 
eight days each, so that the year is eleven days shorter than ours. 
New Year's day is eleven days earlier every year. Many of the 
names of the months begin with the Arabic article " al." For 
example, " Alakarabo," " Alahotsy," which evinces Arab origin 
for the little knowledge of astronomy. There are many super- 
stitions connected with what are called lucky and unlucky days. 
Children born at certain times were often put to death, and at 
certain others a child's evil destiny had to be overcome by an 
ordeal or by the propitiatory offering of " faditra," a scapegoat. 

The peculiar dress of the Malagasy is the lamba, a piece of 
cloth about three yards long and two yards wide, folded round the 
body under the arms, with one end gracefully thrown over the 
shoulder, somewhat like the Roman toga. It is made of various 
materials, — silk, cotton, hemp, banana, or rofia-palm fibre. Al- 
most all Malagasy women, from the queen downward, can spin and 
weave. The silk lambas are often very beautiful and expensive. 
The patterns are generally arranged in stripes of different colors, 
with flowers and leaves worked in, and very elaborate borders. 
The ordinary dress for men consists of a long piece of cloth round 
the loins, sometimes a coarse jacket, and always a lamba of some 
cheap material. The Sakalavas on the west coast do not wear the 
lamba. A straw hat is worn by those in the army. No head 
covering is allowed to civilians. No use is ever made of the skins 
of animals for dress. The women wear no bonnets or other head 
covering, but often carry a parasol. The European dress is gradu- 
ally becoming more and more general throughout the land. 

Rice is the staff of life to the Malagasy, and its culture occu- 
pies a great portion of the time and attention of every part of 
the community. To have a meal is termed " mihinam-bary," that 
is, " to eat rice." The rice-fields are all nearly perfectly level, so 
that water may flow evenly over every part of the growing crops. 
Rice-culture involves a great deal of labor, for every stalk is not 
only sown but also transplanted. The work commences in what 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 211 

are called the " ketsa" grounds, which are a series of terraces 
formed on the sloping hill-sides of the valleys, each with a low 
bank of earth, about a foot high, to prevent the soil and plants 
from being washed down to the next lower level. Spring-water is 
conducted over the uppermost terraces, from which it flows down 
each successive step to the plain below. These ketsa grounds have 
the appearance of an immense green and watery staircase on the 
hill-sides. The rice is sown thickly upon the ground on these ter- 
races, after it has been dug and softened by the water flowing 
over them. After a few weeks the blade comes up thickly, and 
when about six inches long is ready for transplanting. In plant- 
ing, the young plants are taken up, tied in small bundles, and car- 
ried to the rice-fields in the plain. These fields are kept covered 
with water a few inches deep, brought by an extensive system of 
canals and water-courses from the river Ikiopa. A number of 
plants are held in one hand and rapidly and dexterously fixed in 
the soft soil, leaving plenty of room between each to avoid crowd- 
ing. The country then experiences a great change, large tracts 
of dry brown land being speedily covered with an exquisite green 
carpet of rice-plants. In harvest-time the great plain is covered 
with waving crops of yellow grain, resembling a barley-field when 
ripe, but still growing in water a foot deep. In harvesting the 
men go up to their knees in water and cut the rice with large 
straight-bladed knives. Sheaves are formed and piled in small 
canoes, in which they are carried to the banks and then laid out 
to dry in the sun. The rice is then threshed upon large stones or 
smooth hard clay. No flail is used, but the grain is separated 
from the husk by simply beating the heads of a handful of stalks 
on the stones or hard clay. The rice is then dried again and 
stored. The granaries are dome-shaped pits dug in the hard clay 
soil. The mouths are covered with small flat stones and then with 
earth, to make the pits air-tight. On level plains granaries are 
built of clay in cones from ten to fifteen feet high, with an opening 
in the top covered with a stone as in the pits. 



212 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

These rice-pits were formerly used for the capital punishment of 
criminals. The convict was put in the pit with his head above 
the ground, after which the pit was filled with boiling water to 
scald him to death. Some Christians suffered martyrdom in this 
manner. 

The spade used differs from those in America. The blade is 
long and narrow, and is fitted with a handle six or seven feet long, 
made of heavy hard wood to sink by its own weight and pressure 
of the hands, without requiring pressure of the foot on the blade. 
Rice is generally kept in the husk until required for each meal, of 
which they have two each day, one in the forenoon and again soon 
after sunset. The rice is prepared daily by placing it in a large 
wooden mortar, and pounding it with a wooden pestle of hard wood 
about five or six feet long. The rice is then winnowed by shaking 
it in a large flat wooden dish. It is then washed repeatedly in 
cold water, cooked in globular earthen pots, and served in dishes 
of coarse glazed native pottery. Horn or wooden spoons are stuck 
into each portion of rice, and the meat gravy is either poured over 
it or served in another dish. The poorer classes often have no 
meat with their rice, though beef is good, plentiful, and cheap, as 
are all kinds of poultry. Mutton is poor and lean, the native 
sheep being hairy and more like the goat. Beef is eaten at 
funerals, feasts, and rejoicings. The Malagasy are specially fond 
of soups and stews, and when they cannot get meats content 
themselves with the boiled leaves of the mangahazo and the 
manioc-root, which is nutritious but insipid. A taste for tea and 
coffee is spreading, and a very fair quality of coffee has been 
grown near Antananarivo. The Hovas are not addicted to drunk- 
enness, but a coarse spirit is distilled from sugar-cane, and cheap 
clarets and vermouth are imported. After each meal they rinse 
the mouth with cold water, which probably accounts for the white- 
ness of their teeth. They consider Europeans very uncleanly in 
neglecting this practice. Smoking is not practised except by a 
few, who have learned to do so from foreigners. Tobacco grows 



ku^i^iiiil illicit \'j,i : ii 




MALAGASY GIRLS POUNDING RICE IN A MORTAR. 
(From si photograph by Lieut. J. J. Hvnker.) 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 213 

wild, and the weed is almost universally used in the form of snuff, 
mixed with ashes of some sweet-scented plants. The snuff is not 
applied to the nostrils, but placed between the lower lip and gums. 

Almost every one who does not know the Malagasy language 
will be struck by the length of many of the names, such as 
" Rainivoninahitriniony" or " Rabadonandrianampoinimerina." 
The first is the name of the former prime minister, and both are 
of course compound names ; the last is easily understood by sepa- 
rating the parts, — " Rabadon" the child of, " andrian" the prince, 
" ampoin" in the heart of, " imerina" the name of that part of 
Madagascar where the Hovas live ; the whole name means, " the 
child of the prince in the heart of Imerina." Other names can 
be similarly analyzed. There are no family names as with us, and 
it is often difficult to distinguish different ones to know " who is 
who." It will have been noticed that most of the names begin 
with the syllables " Ra" or " Raini," as Ramasiaka, Rainitavy, 
the names of those we met on board the ship. The prefix " ra" 
added to any word makes a proper name of it, as " voalavo" 
means rat, but " Ravoalavo" is the name of a person. The other 
prefix, " raini," means the " father of," and it is a common custom 
for a man on becoming a father to name his son and then change 
his own by prefixing " Raini" to his son's name and dropping his 
old one. A man may have been called Rakota all his life until 
he had a son, whom he named Rasoa, and then he became known 
as Rainisoa. The mother often changes her name in the same 
way and becomes Renisoa, the mother of Rasao. 

The name taken by the sovereign becomes sacred and may not 
be mentioned lightly. This sacredness is applied to everything 
connected with a sovereign after his death. The body is not called 
a corpse but " the sacred" ; it is not said to be buried but hidden. 
Sakalavas on the west coast change the name of their sovereign 
after his death, and consider it sacrilegious to speak of him by his 
former name. The name given after death is held in greatest rev- 
erence ; it always ends in " arivo" (thousand), and with the other 



214 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

portions of the name signifies that he was loved or feared by a 
thousand, etc. If any one has met with a misfortune he will often 
change his name to overcome his bad luck. Many Biblical names 
have been introduced since Christianity has made such progress. 
Daniel, Joseph, etc., become Kadaniela, Rajosefa. 

The canoes and boats of the Malagasy are very peculiar. 
They are generally hollowed out of the trunk of a tree. Some 
of those on the lakes in the interior are forty feet long, three feet 
wide, and three feet deep, with no keel. A primitive contrivance 
called zahitra is used upon the rivers on the southeast coast. 
This consists of a number of bamboos lashed together at the bow 
and spreading out like a fan astern. They also have boats called 
"sary" on that coast, built of planks carefully fitted together, with 
the ends rising like a whale-boat, thirty feet long and eight feet 
beam, which can easily carry fifty persons. No nails are used in 
its construction, the planks being all tied together with palm-fibre 
and the holes plugged. There is no frame, but thwarts act as 
braces, being let through the planking. The seams are calked 
by strips of bamboo, and bamboo is used for thole-pins. The 
oars are long and similar to ours. The Sakalavas use the out- 
rigger canoes, numbers of which were frequently alongside the 
" Brooklyn." Two light poles are lashed across the canoe a short 
distance from the bow and stern, and support a stout floating piece 
about four feet outside, by two upright pieces let into the float 
and tied to the outrigger-poles. Sometimes there are two floats, 
but generally a floating piece on one side and a light pole between 
the two outriggers on the other. A piece of cotton sheeting is 
used for a sail stretched between two poles. One may be said to 
serve for mast and the after one for sprit. The float is always on 
the lee side, and all canoes are double-enders. 

The Malagasy are skilful in all handicrafts. Every woman 
can spin and weave ; the spindles are simply a long piece of the 
tough bark of the anivona palm, to which a circular piece of 
bone is fitted to fix the cotton, wool, or silk cocoons. The looms 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 215 

are rude contrivances : four pegs stick in the ground with slight 
connecting pieces, and a long piece of wood to tauten the woof, 
a shuttle, and a few hanks of yarn. With these simple means 
the women produce strong and often beautiful stuffs of hemp, 
cotton, rofia palm and banana fibre, and silk. In plaiting mats, 
baskets, and hats their ingenuity is very apparent. In the coarser 
kinds the tough peel of the zozoro, or papyrus (the same material 
used by the ancients for writing upon), is employed, and in the 
finer ones the grasses of the country. The hats rival the cele- 
brated Panama hat, and have double thickness. They commence 
at the crown and work towards the edge, which, therefore, has to 
be hemmed in. In the nests of boxes the smallest, three-quar- 
ters of an inch cube, are made of straw like the finest thread, and 
also is of double thickness. 

In metal-work the men are no less ingenious than the women. 
All kinds of iron, copper, and brass wrought work can be pro- 
duced with neat finish. The spears made by the Baras, of which 
there were a " few" on board, are good specimens. The staves have 
inlaid copper bands, and the lower ends are fitted with a sharp 
spade-piece. The spear-blades vary in size according to the rank 
of the owner. At the capital goldsmiths make exceedingly fine 
minute silver chains and silver filigree-work something like the 
Maltese. Trades and occupations are beginning to define the dif- 
ferent classes more distinctly, especially among the Hovas, — skilled 
artisans, musicians, carpenters, leather-workers, and traders. There 
are no banks as yet, and money is stored in a hole in the house. 
They sometimes lend money, but at about fifty per cent, interest. 

The system of fanompoana, or compulsory government service 
without pay, is naturally a great drawback to those who learn a 
trade, because the prospect of being obliged to devote their ac- 
quirements for the service of the crown without pay is not en- 
couraging. All persons are obliged to render this service, and the 
greater their ability the greater the demand for this service. This 
system will probably be discontinued. A beginning has already 



216 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

been made, and taxes will be eventually substituted as more 
equitable. 

Besides being obliged to render free service to the crown, the 
Malagasy pay the greatest respect to the sovereign. Every one 
must turn out of the way before the queen, and also before any- 
thing belonging to the crown. One frequently sees the road 
cleared of people, and all heads being uncovered, as a native with 
a spear precedes a party of men with water-jugs, luggage, or 
cattle, shouting " Mitarila !" (" Get out of the way ; it is royal 
property !") The queen never leaves the palace without being ac- 
companied by the chief people, nobles, hundreds of soldiers and 
attendants. Her presence is always known by a large scarlet um- 
brella carried over her, even when on the veranda or in the royal 
gardens. Scarlet is the royal color in Madagascar, and none but 
the queen may wear a scarlet lamba. Upon a queen's death the 
royal houses are draped in scarlet from the ridge to the ground. 

The queen is never seen in the streets except in the state 
filanjana, and never alights from it in the city except to stand on 
the sacred stone. One of these is in the centre of the city, upon 
which the queen always stands when returning to the city from a 
distance, to receive the salutes of the troops while the forts fire 
cannon. The other sacred stone is on the plain below the city, 
which the queen stands upon at her coronation ; similarly in Eng- 
land the coronation-chair in Westminster Abbey having the stone 
from Scone under it. The queen always occupies the highest seat 
in all Malagasy assemblies. 

The most interesting assembly is the Malagasy Karbary, held at 
the capital usually in a large triangular lot called Andohalo, or 
else at Mahamasina, a little west of the city. The people, all, old 
and young, except mere infants, go to the assembly ground at day- 
light and take their allotted places and wait most patiently. Early 
in the forenoon guns are fired to announce the departure of officers 
from the palace with the royal message. Drums and bands an- 
nounce their approach through lanes in the crowd, kept open by 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 217 

lines of soldiers. On important occasions the prime minister 
brings the message, he and the numerous officers of high rank 
being clad in gorgeously-embroidered uniforms. Lines of inferior 
officers receive them, and the scene presented is richly variegated 
with all kinds of distinctive dresses of the different tribes and 
classes of people. The prime minister then gives word of command 
to the troops, who present arms towards the palace to salute the 
queen, and the multitude turn in the same direction, uncover, and 
shout " Trarantitra !" (" Reach old age !") Guns fire royal salutes, 
and the bands play the national air. The officer next in rank then 
orders the salute to the prime minister, who stands uncovered 
while the troops support arms and salute. This officer is in turn 
saluted by next in rank, and so on for two or three grades lower. 
After these preliminaries the prime minister draws his sword and 
delivers the royal message, which he does eloquently. Almost all 
Malagasy are said to be born orators. In these speeches there is 
also a long recital of the queen's ancestry, and mention of her 
predecessors, and then finally the subject of the message. At 
every important point the question is asked, " Do you not agree to 
my wishes ?" to which they shout " Izay !" ("We do!") The 
prime minister resumes his seat, and the representatives of differ- 
ent tribes, nobles, etc., reply in regular precedence according to 
rank. When replying to the speech three persons from each 
class advance, salute the queen, and after repeating the usual com- 
plimentary phrases, they express in vague and general terms their 
assent to the words they have heard, give assurance of fidelity and 
loyalty, and present the " hasina" (silver dollar). On some occa- 
sions, amidst popular excitement, these speeches are lengthy, and 
the speaker will turn around to his companions and demand in a 
loud voice, " Fa tsy izay va ?" (" Do you not agree with me ?") to 
which they shout, " Izay !" (assent) in reply. On very special 
occasions the queen comes in person and delivers her speech at the 
Karbary with great ceremony. 

Among the peculiar customs there is the brotherhood by blood 



r 



218 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

covenant called " Pato-dra," that is, " bound by blood." It varies 
among different tribes, but essentially consists in taking a small 
portion of blood from the breast or side of each of the two con- 
tracting parties, which is mixed with other ingredients, stirred up 
with a spear-point, and then a small portion swallowed by each, 
while strong oaths of friendship are made, binding each to be 
ready and willing to make any sacrifice for the other's benefit ; 
because they both then become of one blood. The French trav- 
eller, M. G-randidier, became blood-brother of the Sakalava king, 
Zomena, of Tanosy, south of the St. Augustine River. In this 
case all the people of the tribe congregated around him, and the 
king seated on a mat in the centre. An ox was brought, thrown 
down, and had its legs tied together. A prince of the royal family 
cut the ox's throat, and, reciting some prayers, received the first 
blood in a calabash with water. A pinch of salt, some soot, brine, 
powder, and rum were added, and both parties stirred the conse- 
crated liquid, the king with his spear-point, the Frenchman with 
his ramrod. One of the chiefs then delivered a speech, reciting 
the obligations of this compact ; then Zomena took a small wooden 
bowl and poured out some of the liquid for the Frenchman, who 
drank the contents off. The king patted him on the back and all 
the people came up and shook hands, calling him brother of their 
king. The Frenchman then filled the bowl for the king, who 
drank the contents in the same manner, while the other chief men 
drank the remainder in the calabash. 

The Sakalavas have a peculiar medicine-dance for the cure of 
the sick. This is called " Bilo" at Mourondava, and " Salamanga" 
in Tullear. A platform of poles is supported about eighteen feet 
above the ground by four stout poles with two ladders, the rounds 
tied on, leaning against it. The invalid is carried on top of the 
platform and laid on a mat with his face turned upward. Charms 
are tied on the projecting ends of the ladders and idols placed at 
the foot of each of the poles. About sunset all preparations are 
completed and the people congregate around the structure for the 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 219 

dance, to charm away the evil spirit in the invalid. " An ox is 
killed and his blood sprinkled upon the posts. Fires are lighted 
at dark and the dance begins to the music of drum and native flute, 
accompanied by a doleful chorus by the women, who clap their 
hands, while the men join hands and dance around, striking the 
idols, as they pass the posts, with their spears. The dance grows 
quicker and quicker, the people shout and scream to compel the 
idols to drive the evil spirit out of the invalid ; and it is kept up for 
about two hours, when nearly all are completely exhausted by the 
dance and frenzied excitement. The invalid is then removed, and 
if he recovers some one of the dancers is believed to have received 
his evil spirit. If not, and there remains no immediate prospect 
of recovery, he is killed, at his own request or that of his nearest 
relative, by being speared through the breast. The higher the 
rank of the invalids the greater the ceremony, more oxen are 
killed, and a greater number of fires lighted for the occasion. In 
Mourondava, Tullear, and other towns these structures are perma- 
nent, and in the former place the dances take place in the afternoon, 
one of which was witnessed by a number of our officers. 

Witchcraft and sorcery have had great influence with the Mala- 
gasy ; and all kinds of charms are in vogue, especially away from 
the Christianized portions of the country. These are called " ody." 
The charm, " odifaty," is a cordial for use in ease of sorrow or 
great danger ; " odifitia" is a love charm ; " odiratsy" malignant 
charm, etc. The Bara, Tanala, and some east coast tribes wear 
charms around their neck. These are small pieces of wood 
smeared with oil. The richer classes have them ornamented with 
beads. The bones of a lemur's hands and feet are worn as charms 
against fatigue. A small piece of wood, shaped like a canoe, is a 
charm against drowning. Little human figures are charms for 
obtaining spoils, getting many slaves, etc. Pieces of bullocks' 
horns are said to charm away a musket-ball. These are orna- 
mented with tin or beads, a cavity made, which is filled with ashes 
of certain woods of magical trees and mixed with fat or beeswax ; 



220 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

this called " odibasy" is believed to render the wearer invulnera- 
ble. The Betsileos have charms cut from trees, which they rub 
on a rough stone and then eat the dust to cure sickness, for anti- 
dotes against poison, curing wounds and giving protection against 
poison, lightning, and crocodiles, the latter being the most dreaded. 

The administration of law is in the hands of judges, who act 
as representatives of the queen. Before the reign of Ranavalona 
I. there was no code of laws ; but decisions were made upon the 
oral testimony of witnesses in the presence of the accused. The 
judges used to meet in the house of the accused, but this custom 
was abolished because the king, Kadama I., once passed by the 
house where a case was being tried, and the judges pretended not 
to see him, and did not rise to salute as is the custom. The king 
then ordered the house to be pulled down, and that all trials should 
thereafter take place in the open air. Disputes are very frequent, 
no lawyers are employed, and every one pleads his own case. The 
judges now sit on a raised bank of earth, and the depositions are 
taken on a piece of paper laid on the knee. In difficult cases the 
judges often retire to consult, and formerly they used to resort to 
an ordeal by poison This " tangena" ordeal consisted in taking 
portions of two poison-nuts rubbed in the juice of a banana. 
The culprit first had to eat a little rice and swallow three square 
pieces of a fowl's skin. After taking the poison he was given a 
little warm water, and if he vomited the three pieces of skin un- 
injured he was declared innocent, if he did not the chances were 
that he would die of the poison, and all further evidence of his 
guilt was unnecessary. People had the most implicit faith in this 
poison ordeal, and when under suspicion would demand to be sub- 
jected to it, though it was certain that many would be victims. 
Whole villages took the ordeal at times, and the mortality caused 
by it was very great. In the treaty with England in 1865 the 
use of the " tangena" ordeal was abolished. 

The punishments inflicted are very severe. In the army they 
consist of flogging, degradation in rank, confinement with or with- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 221 

out irons, and, in case of desertion or cowardice, death by being 
burnt alive. This last was adopted by the soldiers themselves 
when appealed to by Radama I.. Madagascar's Napoleon ; but was 
abolished about six years ago. The Hovas are not so regardless 
of life as before the introduction of Christianity. For crimes, 
tbe penalties were flogging more or less severe, loading with 
chains, etc., but rarely confinement. Convicts are put to hard 
labor on public works. Certain crimes were punished by maim- 
ing : cutting off the hands and feet ; but this is not practised 
now. Money fines are frequently imposed, especially for damages 
by stray cattle ; and one peculiar case is the fine of an ox and 
a dollar if a man's house burns down, no matter what the cause. 
For political offences and non-payment of debts persons are often 
sold into slavery, and sometimes the offender's wife and children 
are included. 

The tribes of Sakalavas, Mahafalas, Baras, etc., who live in the 
southwestern districts are extremely savage, and their punishments 
severe and barbarous. Capital punishment by spearing through 
the back is common. Theft was punished by death, and the usual 
fine for all offences was one hundred oxen and a slave. This sen- 
tence is invariably pronounced now when a case is decided by the 
king. But it is not executed ; some substitute is accepted instead, 
as a few yards of cloth or a musket, or if the offence is very 
grave, a few oxen besides. 

The traders at Tullear have frequently been robbed, and when 
the thieves were discovered it resulted in the imposition of this 
fine, but the amount paid was merely a nominal substitute, not to 
be compared with the value of articles stolen, which, by the way, 
were seldom returned. 

Since the abolition of polygamy the family life has taken very 
much the same form as among Europeans. Among the Hovas a 
marriage is celebrated first at the house of the bride's father, and 
then at that of the bridegroom's family. The young couple sit 
together to eat rice and other food with one spoon from the same 

15 



222 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

dish. A handsome silk lamba is thrown round them both, and 
the marriage becomes legal and binding by presenting a small 
sum of money to the bride's parents. Among the Sakalavas, 
when a young man wants to obtain a girl as his wife, his courage 
and qualifications are tested, by having a clever spearsman to 
throw spears from a distance at the young man, which he must 
catch without displaying any fear in order to be declared an 
accepted lover. The king of the Hovas was allowed twelve wives, 
who used to have a voice in the administration of the govern- 
ment. Several of Radama's wives are still living, but as Mada- 
gascar laws do not allow of a king in the future, this custom is 
abolished. Strong family affection and tribal clannish feelings exist 
among the Malagasy, and one of the most dreaded evils is to be 
" ariana," cut off by his family or tribe. This family affection is 
even extended to the slaves born in the family, who are looked 
upon as inferior members, very much as was the case in the 
Southern States before the war of secession. 

There are many strange observances and beliefs connected with 
death. At the death of a sovereign a number of things become 
" fady," — prohibited for a specified time. At the death of Radama 
I., everybody was ordered to shave the head, no showy dress or 
ornaments were allowed, riding on horseback or in a filanjana, 
weaving silk, working in precious metals, carpentry, straw plait- 
ing, all salutations, playing on musical instruments, dancing and 
singing, were all forbidden for a considerable time. At the death 
of Queen Rasoherina, in 1868, similar orders were issued declar- 
ing what was " fady." Among the Sakalavas, when a death occurs 
in their villages they move their settlement to a short distance. 
They seem to believe that the spirit of the deceased will haunt 
the spot and harm those who stayed where it lived. This con- 
tinual change accounts for their unsubstantial style of houses, 
usually mere grass huts. The Sihanaka do not pull down the 
house nor remove the village, but leave the house vacant to fall 
to pieces. When they take a corpse to the grave one man carries 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 223 

a dish filled with burning cow-dung on his head, which is placed 
at the head of the grave so that the corpse may get fire if it 
should be cold. 

The tombs and burial customs of the Malagasy vary in different 
parts. The large amount of time, trouble, and money expended 
on them is remarkable. This arises from their religious belief 
that their departed friends become divine. When a Sakalava 
king dies, the corpse is wrapped in an ox-hide and buried in the 
deepest recesses of the forests. After some months the chiefs 
meet together and collect one of the vertebrae of the neck, a nail, 
and a lock of hair, which are put in a crocodile's tooth and taken 
to the sacred house where similar relics of former kings are pre- 
served. The rest of the corpse is buried with much ceremony, 
oxen being killed. Formerly human sacrifices were offered, the 
bodies of these victims being placed under the royal bier. The 
possession of these relics constitutes the right to royal authority. 
A usurper who obtains control over the relics has no difficulty in 
dispossessing the legitimate heir. Some of these relics were kept 
in the Hova town adjoining the governor's palace at Mojanga, and 
after the bombardment the French erected a tent on the spot, 
placed a guard there, and claim that they hold these relics. The 
Hovas say they took them away ; but the spot is still sacred, and 
the Sakalavas believe the French. 

The majority of Hova tombs are cubical vaults, built of slabs 
of hard blue basalt rock. A Hova will spend several hundred 
dollars in the construction of his own tomb, which he begins as 
soon as he has his family. A man gets the voluntary services of 
his friends to assist him, and takes the greatest interest in com- 
pleting it as soon as practicable. Coffins are not used, but the 
corpse is wrapped in a number of dark red silk lambas and laid on 
a shelf in the tomb. The tombs of the sovereigns have a small 
and neatly finished wooden house on top of the stone structure, 
like a dwelling-house, except that it has no window nor hearth. 
Valuable property was often stored in it for use of the deceased. 



224 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The royal corpse is placed in coffins made of plates of silver coins 
hammered out to the requisite shape. The prime minister's tomb 
is the largest stone structure in the country. It is sixty feet 
square and surrounded by a stone veranda, supported on columns 
with moulded bases and capitals, and carrying segmental arches. 
This part is fourteen feet high. A flight of stone steps leads to 
the top, and upon its level surface there is an open arcade, also 
square in plan, the arches having elegantly carved dropping key- 
stones. At each angle of the front there is a graceful columnar 
structure. The columns rest on massive square pedestals, and are 
banded with rounded mouldings. The whole structure has some- 
what of a Hindoo appearance in style, and in some details resembles 
ancient Assyrian buildings, but it is a modern building. 

There are many more peculiar customs, which would be inter- 
esting to the general reader, but those described will convey an 
idea of them all. Almost all of them arise from heathen super- 
stitions, and, as the light of Christianity shines through the land, 
these peculiarities will be modified and gradually disappear. 

Antananarivo, the city of a thousand towns, occupies a pictur- 
esque and commanding site upon the summit and slopes of a lofty 
hill of granite and basalt rock. This hill stretches from north to 
south for about a mile and a half, and rises to five hundred feet above 
the plain. Three sides are steep, but the northern end branches 
into two divisions, which gradually slope down to the plain. There 
is no other hill of any size for miles, so that it is conspicuous at a 
great distance, and recognized by a vast bulk of palaces on its 
summit. The eastern slopes are covered with a dark mass of 
houses, placed most irregularly, from the nature of the ground, 
and built of dark timber with the old high-pitch thatched roofs. 
The houses on the lower part of the hill are mostly built of clay. 
The sky-line is, however, broken by two or three stone houses, and 
on two conspicuous points at the ends of the hill, by lofty Gothic 
spires of two Christian churches, built in 1868. One of these, the 
memorial church at Ambohipotsy, is on the site where Rasalama, 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 225 

a heroic young Christian woman, the first martyr of Madagascar, 
was speared to death in 1837. Next in the line of sight there is 
the stone house, built by Radama II., for a school -house. It is a 
plain, long, low structure, and was remarkable as being, until re- 
cently, the only stone building, except the churches, and also from 
the fact that, though a government work, the workmen were paid 
for their labor. 

The royal palaces next attract attention. They are grouped in 
a large court-yard and include about a dozen buildings. The 
largest is the chief palace, Manjaka-Miadana, one hundred feet long 
by eighty feet wide, and one hundred and twenty feet high to the 
apex of its lofty, sloping roof. A wide veranda in three stories 
runs round the palace, and is supported by enormous posts with 
semicircular wooden arches, all painted white except the balus- 
trading. The Trano-Vola, silver-house, is next in size. It has a 
veranda of two stories, and is painted red, except the roof. There 
are some ancient structures north of these with the enormously 
high-pitched roofs and long projecting house-horns at the gable 
ends. These were built by the first Hova kings. The palace of 
Queen Rasoherina, built in 1867, has beautifully carved gables 
and verandas, but it is hidden by the other royal buildings. The 
palace gardens show a mass of verdure, and, as seen from a dis- 
tance, give a refreshing rest for the eye. The houses of the prime 
minister, officers of the palace, and other prominent officials are 
near the royal palaces. 

A striking peculiarity is the entire absence of doors and windows 
on the east side of the houses. Groups of houses occupy terraces 
on the hill-sides ; there are no streets, and it is very difficult to 
find a thoroughfare. The only piece of level ground of any extent 
is just above the point where the two northern divisions of the 
city hill divide, and leave a triangular space of nine acres called 
Andohola, where the Karbarys are held. The boundary of the 
city is marked by small guard-houses, and in olden times there 
used to be gateways at these points, intended to keep hostile tribes 



226 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

out of the town. There is but one of these gates still existing, 
which, with the tombs, is about the only ancient structure in the 
city. This gate is built of thin slabs of rock, and is covered with 
a thatched roof. The opening is closed by a rock, shaped like a 
millstone, which is rolled across from one side in a rude groove. 
It is probably about two hundred years old. In the neighborhood 
of the city there are three places to which entrance is still for- 
bidden to all Europeans. These are kept sacred and reserved, as 
a concession to the rigid conservatives among the people. 

Within the last fifteen years the city has been almost entirely 
rebuilt. The new houses are of sun-dried brick, on European 
models. The great palace has been altered, its wooden verandas 
replaced by modern stone mason-work, with high corner towers 
and Corinthian columns. European art is largely employed and 
the peculiar Malagasy type abandoned. There is very little Hova 
art, and that of the Baras and Betsileos is rude and primitive, and 
is only admired as curious. 

Christian schools have been established. Education is not only 
eagerly sought, but compulsory to a certain degree, and the pros- 
pects for a glorious future are very promising. 

THE FRENCH IN MADAGASCAR. 

A brief glance at the history of Madagascar will convince any 
one of the ambition of French navigators to obtain control of 
that island. The French settlements upon the neighboring 
islands, Mauritius, Bourbon, etc., stimulated this desire, and the 
present war is only the natural sequence of a policy by which the 
French have convinced the Malagasy peoples that they intended 
to make a conquest of that island, and were only waiting for a 
favorable opportunity to execute their long-cherished plans. 

The English missionaries were the first to obtain any influence 
over the Hovas, and as the Hovas became the dominant race, it 
naturally resulted in strong antipathy against the French. Cer- 
tain rebellious Sakalava chiefs living on the coast near the French 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 227 

settlements appealed to the latter for protection against the ex- 
actions of the Hovas, and the French always lent a willing hand 
in favor of the poor oppressed Sakalavas. and now claim a pro- 
tectorate over the whole northwest coast, in accordance with 
treaties with these Sakalavas. 

The French residents in Tamatave, Mojanga, Antananarivo, and 
other places under the Hova government, have been subjected to 
a great many annoyances, and especially to grievous exactions by 
unpaid Hova officers, for which, in view of constant revival of 
ancient laws, they have had no legal redress. The French settlers 
were largely interested in the sugar plantations, and many of 
them felt themselves entitled to buy the estates in their own right 
whenever they might desire to do so. The recodification of Mala- 
gasy laws in 1881 re-enacted the ancient laws forbidding aliens 
to own any real estate in fee-simple. These and other enactments 
of similar purport caused bitter opposition of the French planters, 
while certain interested speculators magnified the grievances by 
incendiary articles in the French papers. 

In the mean time an Arab " dhow." loaded with arms and 
manned by an Arab crew, but under the French flag, landed on 
the northwest coast, where she was attacked by the Sakalavas, 
who killed the crew, confiscated the arms, and destroyed the 
" dhow." The French consul at Antananarivo considered this 
an outrage, and demanded ten thousand dollars damages from the 
Hova government and an apology for the insult to the French 
flag. The prime minister, however, saw his opportunity, and to 
the astonishment of the French consul immediately paid the 
damages claimed through the American consular agent at Mojanga. 

The prime minister then determined to punish the perpetrators 
of the outrage on the French flag, and prepared an expedition to 
establish posts on the northwest coast. The French agent, how- 
ever, objected to any armed occupation of that territory by the 
Hovas, and reasserted the claim of French protectorate over that 
coast in virtue of treaties with the Sakalava inhabitants. The 



228 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

prime minister claimed the right of his government to punish 
offenders against the law, especially when they had been com- 
pelled to pay damages for an outrage which had been recently 
committed. 

Both parties insisted upon their respective rights over the dis- 
puted territory. The Hovas sent their flag with privileges to 
certain of the most prominent chiefs, who considered it a special 
favor to be allowed the honor of flying this flag ; and a vessel, 
called the "Antananarivo," was fitted up to convey a force of 
Hova soldiers to the northwest coast, but the French naval 
forces forbade her departure from Tamatave. 

The French settlers then met and wrote a stirring appeal for 
protection to the president of the French republic. This peti- 
tion throws no light upon the question, but dwells at great length 
upon the distress of Frenchmen in Madagascar, and " why France 
should desert her oppressed children, exposed to the cruel exactions 
and despotic laws of a savage government." This document is a 
curiosity in its vague generalities, and, while no single case is cited, 
yet it leaves an impression of dreadful wrongs and great injustice 
suffered by helpless Frenchmen in a heathen country. 

The appeal was signed by most of the French settlers, and 
resulted in the bombardment of places occupied by the Hovas on 
the northwest coast and the declaration of war as stated in the 
history of the country. 

The French held Tamatave and Mojanga when the " Brooklyn" 
visited those ports, but there was no probability that the French 
would ever be able to make a successful invasion of the country of 
the Hovas. 

The Hovas do not depend upon foreign commerce, — in fact, 
they can live upon the island without any intercourse with the 
rest of the world ; and the occupation of the coast by the French 
forces does not incommode them as much as foreigners, especially 
the commercial houses of the Americans and the English. 

The Hova army is well organized and equipped with Reming- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 229 

ton rifles, Gatling-guns, and Hotchkiss revolving cannon; and, 
under the leadership of two of the most famous modern generals, 
— Generals " Fever and Forest," — expect their enemies to die 
before they ever reach the highlands of " Imerina." It will re- 
quire an army of at least fifty thousand men to successfully invade 
Madagascar, and what grievance that the French settlers have 
suffered will compensate for such great sacrifice on the part of the 
French republic ? 



CHAPTER XIII. 



The Sakalava Outrage on American Gold-Hunters — The Investigation by the 
U. S. S. "Enterprise" — Arrival of the "Brooklyn" at Mourondava — Recep- 
tion by Hova Officials — Peculiar Rites of Hospitality — Visit of Hovas to the 
" Brooklyn" — Arrival of the " Brooklyn" at Tullear — Effect of Target-Prac- 
tice upon the Guilty Consciences of the Savage Sakalavas — The Lonely Mis- 
sionary and his Labors among the Heathen — The Semi-Annual Inspection 
by the Commander-in-Chief — Departure for Port Elizabeth — Description of 
Port Elizabeth — The Proposed Docks — The Hottentot Clicks. 

TULLEAR BAY. 
THE SAKALAVA OUTRAGE ON A PARTY OF AMERICAN GOLD-HUNTERS. 

The vicinity of St. Augustine Bay and River, and that of Tul- 
lear, affords the best harbor on the southwest coast of Madagascar. 
Numerous reefs abound on all sides, which necessitate careful nav- 
igation, but the anchorages are good and safe. Nos-Veh, or Sandy 
Island, lies off the southern part of the bay, and is interesting to 
us as having been the site of English observers of the transit of 
Venus on December 6, 1882, who went there in H. B. M. S. 
" Fawn." The surrounding country is low, with a prominent table- 
hill three or four miles inland, known as Westminster Hall, while 
farther back, the interior range of mountains looms up as a relief 
to the dreary coast plains. 



230 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Sandy Island is occupied by storehouses of English and French 
traders, who do a precarious business with the natives, exchanging 
cotton-sheeting, muskets, powder, and general merchandise for 
orchilla-weed, corn, and Madagascar beans. These traders have 
branch houses at Tullear, where they obtain the produce from the 
tribes on the north bank of the river. A new article of export 
has been recently discovered called " afotsy," fibre, which resem- 
bles slippery-elm bark, and makes a very superior cordage. This 
bark comes from a low tree about thirty feet in circumference, 
and the trade can be supplied to an almost unlimited amount at 
one dollar and thirty-six cents per hundred pounds. The Rev. 
L. Rostvig is the only European, except the traders, living in the 
vicinity, and they very kindly imparted the following informa- 
tion : 

The country around Tullear is known as the province of Fihe- 
renga, which extends from the St. Augustine north to the Mangoke 
River, and about seventy miles east to the Bara country in the in- 
terior. The inhabitants number about fifty-seven thousand, and 
are mostly Sakalavas, with a few Mahafalys and Baras, and some 
African Makuas. They are divided into two classes, — the " Vezo," 
rowing people on the coast, and " Masikoto," country people farther 
inland. The banks of the river are covered with villages of grass 
huts, while the long line of sandy beach is broken in front of 
them by rows of canoes, hauled up above high-water mark, show- 
ing the readiness of the inhabitants to move to another site at any 
moment. 

The Sakalavas claim to be the descendants of the first inhab- 
itants of Madagascar. They say their ancestors came from the 
eastern side of the island, and consider the Hovas to be mere in- 
vaders, and in acknowledging the Hova superiority think them to be 
of European extraction, and therefore irresistible. The Hovas con- 
quered them in the time of Ranavalona I., but did not remain in the 
country to keep up their authority. At present the recognition is 
merely formal. Messages are sent from the capital to the king 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 231 

about once a year, and the king sends the messenger back with a 
musket, some spears, etc., as a tributary present. There used to 
be but one king over the whole province, who kept the people 
under control, but now there are a number of kings, and disputes 
and wars are constant. The Mahafalys, who live to the southward, 
frequently war with the people of Fiherenga, and in their battles 
captives are made slaves and the severely wounded speared to 
death. The Baras also come down to fight, but more frequently 
to bring cattle and spears to barter with the traders. All these 
people are wild savages and desperate thieves, never hesitating to 
resort to cowardly measures, and to kill, in order to plunder their 
victims. 

September 9, 1882, a party of two Americans, Messrs. Emer- 
son and Hewlit, and a Frenchman, M. Parent, arrived at one of 
these villages, called Marohala, bound on an exploring expedition 
into the interior to prospect for gold. They had considerable bag- 
gage, and stopped at Marohala overnight. Emerson was a crack 
shot with a revolver, and displayed his skill as a marksman to the 
savages. Their baggage was believed to contain a great deal of 
money, and this so excited the cupidity of the natives that they 
determined to attack the party on their journey. The travellers 
engaged some of the natives to carry their baggage, and left the 
village early the next morning. The conspirators had preceded 
them to a place a few miles back of the village, called Izandroha, 
which is an open field surrounded by bushes and tall tamarind- 
trees. They met some Baras there bringing cattle down to the 
coast, who agreed to join the band to attack the strangers. It 
was planned to make the attack a surprise by killing Emerson, 
who was dreaded on account of his skill as a marksman, by a salvo 
of musketry from behind the bushes. The party suspected noth- 
ing, although warned by the traders beforehand, and were care- 
lessly marching on when Emerson was shot and instantly killed. 
The baggage-bearers fled at once. M. Parent offered a feeble 
resistance, but was soon killed by a shower of spears from all 



232 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

sides, after which the savages set to work to plunder the baggage. 
Hewlit had loitered behind, and started to the assistance of his 
comrades when he heard the firing, but was met by one of the 
baggage-bearers, who had his, Hewlit's revolver, and who urged 
him to run for his life. Hewlit tried to get his revolver, but in 
doing so was seen by some of the band, who gave chase to kill 
him. Hewlit ran for his life, when the native threw his revolver 
at him, which passed over his head, and which he picked up and 
then fired on his savage pursuers. The latter then gave up the 
chase to return to the baggage. A spear had passed through the 
calf of Hewlit's leg, but after withdrawing it he managed to 
crawl to a hut in the vicinity, where he was hid and nursed by a 
friendly Sakalava medicine-man. Hewlit's leg became very sore, 
but after a few days he was able to reach the river and take a 
canoe to Sandy Island, where he took refuge on board H. B. M. S. 
" Fawn." 

The whole affair was investigated when the " Enterprise" visited 
Tullear, and is now in the hands of the State Department, that 
the guilty parties may be duly punished by the Malagasy authori- 
ties. Nothing can be expected from the native kings ; indeed, it 
is probable that they shared the plunder. But the Hovas will 
come in force as soon as the present difficulty with the French 
has been settled ; and these savages know their crime will be 
severely punished, and that Americans may not be robbed and 
killed with impunity. While the " Brooklyn" was at Tullear, 
Mr. Rostvig and the traders were closely questioned as to what 
the man-of-war wanted there, and no explanations could satisfy 
their anxious fears. 

We remained at anchor off Mozambique until February 6, when 
we proceeded to Mourondava, Madagascar. Mozambique has few 
attractions, and after a stroll over the fort, through the narrow 
streets of the Banyan quarter, and down the main avenue to the 
lower end of the island, there was but little else to see. The 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 233 

native huts are built of palm, roofed with thatch, and completely 
cover the fields on both sides below the level of the avenue. 

The officers were cordially welcomed by Mr. Cassidy and those 
connected with the telegraph-cable station ; they have a lawn- 
tennis court, which afforded pleasant diversion. Mr. Auguste 
Brun, the French consul, was also very hospitable. February 3 
the British steamer "Java" arrived from Zanzibar with mail 
from New York to December 20, kindly forwarded by Mr. F. W. 
Cheney, the United States consul at Zanzibar. 

The passage to Mourondava was made without incident, and 
we arrived at Andakabe February 8. Immediately after anchor- 
ing we saluted the Madagascar flag with twenty-one guns, and in 
the afternoon received visits from the Hova governor, Rakota, 
tenth honor, and Mr. Stanwood, the United States consular agent, 
who were saluted with seven and five guns respectively. Anda- 
kabe is a small Sakalava village of grass huts ; two Americans, 
Mr. Stanwood and A. Govea, agent of George Ropes, of Boston, 
and Mr. Leo Samat being the only foreigners. The latter hand- 
somely entertained a party of our officers at his plantation. 

Our arrival was an important event, as the only communication 
we have had with the Malagasy government. February 12 the 
governor arranged for an official welcome to the town, with a pecu- 
liar Hova ceremony for the commander-in-chief and the captain 
and officers of the " Brooklyn." 

Lieutenant Phelps and Ensign Ripley, of the personal staff, and 
Lieutenant Beehler were sent to represent the commander-in- 
chief and Captain Weaver respectively. They landed through 
the surf and went to the consulate, where they awaited the gov- 
ernor and his people. The first appearing of the natives was her- 
alded by the beating of a drum, when a long line filed into the 
court-yard, preceded by two fine bullocks. Each man carried 
something, either a duck, goose, turkey, or a bag of rice, and four 
men with a ram, and all sat down in the yard to await the pres- 
entation. The bullocks were, however, somewhat restless and in- 



234 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

quisitive, and not only investigated all the enclosure, but walked 
in-doors and made some amusing but expensive experiments. But 
they were soon secured. The governor and head-men then came 
in and sat down on the veranda. Salutations were exchanged, 
and the governor, Mr. Rakota, made a speech in Malagasy, which 
was interpreted by our consul, Mr. Stanwood, in which he said 
that he extended the courtesies of the land and a welcome from 
Her Majesty the Queen, the Prime Minister, and the men of rank 
of Madagascar to the commander-in-chief of the United States 
naval force in these waters, and to the captain and officers of the 
" Brooklyn," to this the land of their fathers ; and in their name 
offered, as was the immemorial custom of the people, these fruits 
of the land and the perfect freedom of the kingdom. The officers 
then replied in separate speeches, accepting the hospitable welcome 
and freedom of the country, and expressing the sentiments of love 
and friendship for the queen and all the Malagasy entertained by 
the commander-in-chief and captain and all Americans, and their 
sympathy with the Malagasy in their cultivation of the useful arts 
and sciences, and the growth of the Christian religion through the 
land. They also expressed the wish that they might enjoy all the 
blessings of peace and prosperity, and that the cordial ties of 
friendship now existing between the United States and Madagas- 
car may continue unbroken forever. The bullocks were then tied 
with cocoanut cords, thrown down, and killed by simply cutting 
their throats ; the carcasses were then cut up, and the whole lot 
of presents, consisting of two bullocks, one ram, two turkeys, two 
geese, twelve ducks, eight bags of rice, were sent off to the ship. 
These were divided among the officers and crew, and all had 
abundance. 

All Americans who have visited the country have been received 
as the most favored of nations. When the news of the death of 
President Garfield reached the late Queen Ranavalona II., she and 
her whole court went into mourning for eight days. No queen of 
the country had ever gone into mourning before. The officers of 



o K 






^-^iff/'si.-f/J/I 'ti=k =^^&k>^~^- ' * ■ .-11-;//" 




THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 235 

the palace and dignitaries of the kingdom remonstrated with her for 
this conduct as contrary to the customs of the country, but she re- 
plied that she considered the Americans her best and truest friends. 

When we arrived, Hova officers hastened from the interior to 
Andakabe to present the compliments of the queen and prime 
minister. They arrived Wednesday evening, and the next day, 
February 14, visited the ship as special representatives. They 
were received by the commander-in-chief, Captain Weaver, and 
all the officers, in full-dress uniform, and shown the greatest 
attention. The party consisted of Rainiboay, thirteenth honor, 
aide-de-camp of the prime minister, Rainitavy, thirteenth honor, 
officer of the palace, Ramasiaka, twelfth honor, lieutenant-gov- 
ernor, and Rakota, tenth honor, with our consul, Mr. Stanwood. 
We had a dress parade of the battalion and an exhibition of the 
silent drill by the marines. They were very much pleased, and, 
after leaving, received a salute of thirteen guns. In the after- 
noon there was another presentation of the fruits of the land on 
shore, speeches were made as before, and a Sakalava spear combat 
arranged for the officers. 

We left February 16, and arrived off Sandy Island, St. Augus- 
tine's Bay, Sunday, the 17th, without special incident. 

We remained at anchor off Sandy Island until 5.15 A.M., Feb- 
ruary 21, when we got under way and proceeded to Tullear, where 
we arrived about ten a.m. the same day, the distance around the 
reef being only twenty-seven miles. We found our charts in 
error in regard to the extent and location of the reefs in this 
vicinity, and were obliged to feel our way along with caution. 
The next day being Washington's birthday was celebrated by 
dressing ship with mast-head flags and firing the national salute 
of twenty-one guns at noon. 

Sunday, February 24, the Rev. L. Rostvig came on board and 
attended divine service. After the usual services he kindly 
preached a sermon in the Norwegian language to his countrymen 
on board the ship, of whom there were quite a number. The 



236 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Norwegian Lutheran missionaries have been engaged in Mada- 
gascar since 1867, and have converted about thirty thousand 
among the Betsileos. In 1874, Mr. Rostvig and three others 
were sent to the Sakalavas, among whom they have been work- 
ing faithfully, but without any encouragement. The three who 
came with him died some years ago, and of two others who came out 
since, one is dead, and the other was seriously ill in the swamp 
land near Mourondava. Mr. Rostvig won our esteem and admira- 
tion by his devotion to these benighted savages, especially brought 
to our notice by his kind care of a poor Sakalava, whose arm Dr. 
Steele, of this ship, amputated, out of charity, in order to save 
his life. Mr. Rostvig reported having but one sincere convert 
among these Sakalavas, and remains exposed to their savage 
brutality without pay or other reward, except to fulfil his calling. 

Monday, February 25, the commander-in-chief made his semi- 
annual inspection of the " Brooklyn." We had been looking for- 
ward to this event for some time, in order that this inspection 
might surpass the last, notwithstanding the gratifying results then 
obtained. We went to quarters for inspection at 9.15 A.M., when 
the commander-in-chief and staff thoroughly inspected the ship. 
After this inspection the assembly was sounded for dress parade, 
and companies duly formed and marched on line as usual. After 
the parade the companies marched off for drill in different 
branches, the first division at artillery, the second at infantry tac- 
tics and pistol drill, the third at single-sticks, and the marines as 
infantry and in the manual by drum-tap. These detailed drills 
were all very satisfactory. At 10.30 A.M. all boats were called 
away, " armed and equipped" for distant service. The flotilla 
formed line abreast the starboard beam, and executed several 
manoeuvres in naval tactics under oars, after which each boat was 
thoroughly inspected by the personal staff to see that all equip- 
ments were in good order and properly provided. This exercise 
was very good and all details promptly executed. 

All hands went to dinner at seven bells, and at 12.53 the in- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 237 

spection was resumed by calling all hands to clear ship for action. 
At 1.10 P.M. the drum beat to general quarters, and the crew 
worked with alacrity to be ready in the shortest time possible. 
All hands were exercised at general quarters and as boarders and 
riflemen, and the time required for the different evolutions noted 
by the staff. After the general exercises separate gun's crews 
were exercised in detail, and individual members of the crews 
examined as to their personal knowledge about the guns, their 
ranges, charges, mode of sighting, and other details. Some guns 
were transported and the pivots exercised at shifting from side to 
side, as part of the inspection. Before securing, an improvised 
torpedo was exploded from the port torpedo-boom. We had fire 
quarters when at general quarters, and subsequently another exer- 
cise under the bill, with the crew not at quarters. The inspec- 
tion lasted all day. It was oppressively hot, but every one tried 
to do his best, and the inspection was very satisfactory. 

The next day we sent down the fore-topmast trestle-trees, which 
had been found to be rotten when on the passage from Cape Town 
to Tamatave. Our carpenter's gang did excellent work, and had 
made new trestle-trees, which were sent up on February 27. All 
the standing rigging was overhauled and the masts restayed, some 
excellent work being done by Boatswain's Mate Dennis Twiggs, 
who was temporarily in charge of that department. The yards 
and masts were given a new coat of paint, and the rigging black- 
ened down, so that the ship presented a very handsome appearance. 

March 3 we had target-practice with the starboard broadside 
battery, at regulation target, at from eleven hundred to twelve 
hundred yards. The practice was good, and though we fired to 
seaward it badly frightened the natives, who were very much 
alarmed at our presence, because of their murder of an American 
explorer. Ten shots were fired from the Hotchkiss revolving- 
cannon, and all the divisions exercised at target-practice with 
rifles. 

At 6.10 a.m., March 5, we finally got under way, and proceeded 

16 



238 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

across the Mozambique Channel to Port Elizabeth. We had ex- 
ceptionally fine weather, fair winds, and a strong favorable current, 
except on the evening of March 7, when a fresh southeast wind and 
swell indicated a severe gale along the coast at Natal. We arrived 
at Port Elizabeth at 2.20 p.m., March 11, and found it to be a 
very thriving city, and much more like an American place than 
any we had visited since our departure from New York in 1881. 
The Madagascar cruise was most successfully finished. It was 
very hard work, and attended with many discomforts, especially 
in the difficulty of obtaining fresh provisions ; but it left only a 
few more months before the expiration of the cruise, and the 
prospect of returning home compensated for the hardships in a 
great degree. Four months had elapsed since we left Cape Town, 
in which time we spent fifty-four days at sea, and sailed a distance 
of seven thousand five hundred and twenty miles. We called at 
ten different ports, which we entered without taking a pilot in any 
case, though all required careful navigation, and some were very 
narrow and difficult. Pilots offered their services at Zanzibar and 
Mozambique, but they were declined. The health of the ship 
was excellent, and we were thankful to have made the cruise with- 
out having had any accident. 

PORT ELIZABETH. 

Port Elizabeth was founded by Sir Rufane Donkin in 1820, 
during a period of great commercial distress in England. Ninety 
thousand applicants desired to take advantage of the provisions of 
the immigration act to settle in South Africa in that period, as 
fifty thousand pounds had been granted for that purpose by the 
British Parliament. A very respectable class of immigrants was 
chosen from the applicants, and twenty-three vessels were chartered 
to take them to their destination, the first of which arrived at 
Algoa Bay in April, 1820, followed soon after by the rest of the 
immigrants; who, numbering four thousand, immediately set to 
work to improve the land, each family having received a freehold 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 239 

of one hundred acres. Large tracts of land were ploughed and 
planted, a greater portion with wheat ; but this crop was blighted 
by rust. The colonists made three other attempts, and repeated 
failures reduced them to want, though corn and rye were grown 
successfully. In October, 1823, a storm caused the rivers to over- 
flow, the dwellings were washed away, and the poor colonists lost 
all they had. Their struggle for existence under these desperate 
circumstances, coupled with frequent invasions by the Kaffir tribes, 
almost led them to abandon the settlement ; but their triumphs 
over adversities developed an energetic community, which, con- 
tending with apparently insurmountable obstacles, has risen to be 
the most thrifty of the colony. 

The town was named after the deceased wife of the founder, who 
built an obelisk in the square, in front of the town-hall. The city 
is built on the bluffs overlooking the bay. The public buildings are 
large and very handsome, while all the houses are modern struc- 
tures, so neat and tidy, with small adjoining gardens, that a 
stranger cannot fail to feel attracted and desire to take up his resi- 
dence there. Water is supplied by an aqueduct from the Van 
Staden River, twenty-seven miles from the town-hall. 

There is an extent of unoccupied land back of the city limits, 
with deep ravines among the hills, which are occupied by Kaffir 
villages. The term "Kaffir" is of Arabic origin, and means 
" heathen," and denotes various families, such as the Zulus, Ama- 
tonga, Matabele, Basutos, and many other tribes who are more or 
less allied to each other. In the vicinity of Port Elizabeth the 
Kaffirs are too weak to give the people very much trouble, but 
they are obliged to compel them to move their " kraals," as their 
villages are termed, from time to time farther back as the city 
grows, because they will not adopt European dress. A kilt of 
skins is the only garment worn, but lately gaudy clothes have ex- 
cited their innate vanity and mimicry to such an extent that many 
are beginning to desire fine clothing, and in time, if this craving 
be stimulated, the Kaffirs may be forced to work in order to ob~ 



240 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

tain it. Some of them have already abandoned their kraals and 
live in the city, where they form the chief element in the laboring- 
classes. 

The country is treeless, but the citizens have managed to lay out 
two fine public gardens, and trees have been planted on " the Hill," 
the fashionable quarter, which is now very attractive. The town- 
hall is the finest building, and cost about twenty-six thousand 
pounds. There are several fine churches, bank buildings, schools, 
and a fine drill-hall of a crack military company, besides a new 
wool and feather market-house. 

The officers visited the feather market, and were very much 
entertained by the manner in which ostrich-feathers were sold. 
The feathers were laid in piles on a series of ten tables, each 
about ninety feet long, and sold at auction to the highest 
bidder. The auctioneer, with a party of fifteen or twenty feather 
dealers, started at one end of a table and took up the bundles of 
feathers in regular succession. Each bundle of feathers was sold 
by weight at so many shillings per pound, and while bidding the 
dealers roughly examined each lot and made their bids without 
hesitation. These men were all experts in the value of feathers, 
and by simply handling them were prepared to make a bid. The 
rapidity of the sale was a regular walk through the market, and 
no outsider could by any means get a show at making a bid. 
There were few really fine feathers at this sale, except one small 
parcel of twelve feathers weighing two ounces, which brought the 
price of forty-two pounds per pound, or twenty-five dollars and 
fifty-five cents for the lot of twelve feathers. 

The inhabitants number thirteen thousand and forty-nine, the 
majority of whom are descendants of the original English settlers. 
There are but few Dutch, and the absence of this class has con- 
duced to harmony and public spirit among the citizens. Two 
lines of railroad lead back into the interior, one of which com- 
pleted a junction with that from Cape Town in March, 1884. The 
distance by rail is eight hundred and thirty-seven miles, now 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 241 

performed in sixty hours ; the direct distance is about four hun- 
dred miles. Nearly the whole of the trade of the midland dis- 
tricts, the Orange Free State, and a large part of that of the dia- 
mond-fields and the interior now passes through Port Elizabeth. 
Wool and ostrich -feathers are the most valuable products, the 
exportation of which has been the chief source of wealth to the 
colony. 

Port Elizabeth is not a sheltered harbor, but merely an exposed 
roadstead, in which many vessels have been wrecked, and where 
none can lie in perfect safety. But the enterprising citizens have 
endeavored to remedy this by making an artificial harbor, which 
as now proposed will be a very remarkable work, if at all success- 
ful. The plan proposed has the sanction of the celebrated Eng- 
lish engineer, Sir John Goode, and consists of an open iron viaduct 
to run out to an enclosed outer harbor, three thousand feet from 
the shore, where fifty vessels could lie in safety alongside the 
quays. This scheme reads well on paper, and a little model in a 
glass case, with toy ships quietly glued on a painted sea, is an or- 
nament in the commercial reading-rooms, but the construction and 
maintenance of such a work is very doubtful, wellnigh impossible, 
considering the great expense. The energy and enterprise of the 
inhabitants is like that of an American city ; and, wishing them 
every success, we are confident that they will eventually overcome 
all obstacles in the way of making a good harbor, no matter how 
difficult it may seem. During our stay of two days in that port 
the people evinced every desire to extend a hospitable welcome. 
A number of the most prominent people called, and great regrets 
were expressed at our short stay. The " Pensacola" stopped 
there about two weeks on her way homeward bound, from the 
Pacific Station, and her officers were eloquent in their praises of 
the good people of Port Elizabeth. 



242 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

THE HOTTENTOT CLICKS. 

Upon a visit to the South African Public Library at Cape 
Town, Dr. Theophilus Hahn gave the following sketch of the 
results of the researches upon the languages of South African 
natives : 

One of the greatest peculiarities of the Hottentot races of 
South Africa consists of certain click sounds in their speech, 
which distinguishes them from all other people in the world. In 
the history of the world the different peoples have been variously 
classified as Jews and Gentiles, Romans or barbarians, white or 
colored, etc., but the Hottentots differ from all in the very first 
principles of language. Words are formed by combination of 
articulate sounds, called vowels, with consonants. The Hottentots 
have the same vowels, as a e i o u, and similar consonants, which 
are formed by the lips, tongue, and teeth in different positions as 
with us, except that they breathe in where we breathe out. For 
example : to form the letter b we place the lips together and 
breathe out as the mouth is opened, whereas the Hottentots form 
the consonants by placing the lips in the same position and then 
breathe in. We make the sound of the letter t by placing the 
tongue against the rear of the front teeth and breathing out ; the 
Hottentots place the tongue in the same position and breathe in, 
making the sound which we often use to express pity. This ac- 
tion of breathing in causes click sounds, which we often make use 
of, one of the most general being that which is used by all people 
in driving horses. The Hottentots must, therefore, be the descend- 
ants of a peculiar isolated family, a race who started to use a 
spoken language in a totally different manner from all others in 
the world. 

We can only mention this curious fact, but the student would 
find the details of Hottentot language full of curious features, and 
many valuable historic facts are being constantly brought to light 
in regard to them and other inhabitants of Africa. 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 243 



CHAPTER XI Y. 

Voyage around Cape of Good Hope to Cape Town — Promotion of Rear- 
Admiral Phelps — Courtesy of the English at Cape Town — Reception by 
the Officers — Dr. Holub's Exploring Expedition — The Vineyard at High 
Constantia — The Beautiful Silver- Tree — General Description of South 
Africa — History of the African States — The Transvaal Boers — The Boer 
War and Inglorious Defeat of the British at Laing's K"eck — The Zulu War 
— Cetewayo's Capture and Exile. 

We remained at Port Elizabeth until five P.M., Thursday, 
March 13. During our short stay of two days at anchor in the 
roadstead, the ship rolled considerably to a long swell from the 
southeast. There seems to be something quite remarkable in the 
character of this heavy swell, which varies in extent from time 
to time from no apparent cause. Indications would often lead one 
to suppose that a heavy gale was or had been prevailing off the 
coast, but this swell is probably due to the action of strong con- 
flicting currents, the contour of the coast at x\lgoa Bay causing 
the regular tidal currents to meet the Indian Ocean currents 
at such an angle that the opposiog forces create great surface 
disturbance. 

We received a few stores and about fifty tons of coal, but our 
stay was quite uneventful. Those who had an opportunity to visit 
the town were very much pleased with it ; the Madagascar cruise 
having prepared us to appreciate in a high degree the blessings 
enjo}"ed by an enlightened community. Our consul, Mr. J. W. 
Philip, called, and the officers received cordial invitations to ac- 
cept the hospitality of the Port Elizabeth Club, where delight- 
fully cool reading-rooms afforded them the much-desired oppor- 
tunity of learning what events had transpired in our long absence 
from the rest of the civilized world. 



244 TEE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

We proceeded along the coast around Cape Agulhas, experi- 
encing moderate winds, smooth sea, and pleasant weather until 
Saturday afternoon, when it commenced to rain. It would be 
difficult to describe how hard it poured down, but it did not last 
long, for soon after sighting the light on the Cape of Good Hope 
at 8.30 P.M. the weather cleared, and the moon came out from be- 
hind the blackest clouds with great brilliancy, seemingly to greet 
us with a good hope for our returning voyage. 

At daylight the next morning the familiar landmarks of Table 
Bay came in sight, and at nine A.M. we quietly anchored in the 
harbor, almost in the same spot we had left four months before. 
We had scarcely anchored when the fleecy cloth was spread on 
Table Mountain, as if to symbolize the hospitable feelings of the 
people. We recognized an old acquaintance in the southeaster 
which blew over the mountain's precipitous sides ; but we imme- 
diately sent down topgallant-masts, veered to a long scope on our 
best bower, and, backed by the starboard anchor, safely rode out 
the furious blast. 

We received an immense mail that afternoon. There had been 
but one opportunity for forwarding our mail to us since we had 
left Cape Town last November, and a great deal of mail had accu- 
mulated at the consulate during our absence. In this mail the 
commander-in-chief received a telegram from the Honorable Sec- 
retary of the Navy informing him that the President had, by and 
with the advice and consent of the Senate, promoted him to the 
grade of rear-admiral in the navy, to date from March 1, 1884. 

At colors the next day, March 17, we hoisted the admiral's flag 
at the mizzen, and in accordance with the navy regulations fired a 
salute of thirteen guns. The battery at " The Castle" also saluted 
the admiral's flag immediately afterwards. At nine A.M. we got 
under way and hauled the ship into the outer basin of the Alfred 
Docks, and secured with stern lines to the breakwater quay and 
chains to buoy ; so that the moorings and the lee afforded by the 
docks gave a perfectly safe berth for all kinds of weather. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 245 

The next day H. B. M. S. " Opal" came into the harbor and 
saluted the admiral with thirteen guns. This was a very compli- 
mentary act of courtesy, as the " Opal" came round from Simon's 
Town, the British naval station of the Cape, for this special pur- 
pose. The usual visits were exchanged between the admiral, 
Captain Weaver, and Captain Brooke, commanding the " Opal." 

Naval Cadet R. B. Higgins was detached on March 19, and 
ordered to proceed to the Naval Academy for final examination 
with the rest of his class, only the first ten of whom will be re- 
tained in the service. Mr. Higgins took passage in the Union 
Boyal Mail steamer " Moor," and probably reached Annapolis 
about the latter part of April. 

At one p.m., Thursday, March 20, the commander-in-chief and 
personal staff made an official visit to the administrator, Lieu- 
tenant-General the Honorable Sir Leicester Smyth, at the Govern- 
ment House. The following account of this visit appeared in the 
Cape Town Evening Express : 

"Shortly after noon to-day Admiral Phelps, accompanied by 
Captain Weaver, Flag-Lieutenant Phelps, Lieutenant Hunker, and 
Ensign Ripley, aide-de-camp, arrived at the central wharf in one 
of the ' Brooklyn's' boats. As soon as the admiral landed he was 
met by Mr. Siler, consul for the United States of America. The 
admiral, in company with Mr. Siler, Captain Weaver, and Flag- 
Lieutenant Phelps, proceeded in a carriage to Government House, 
Lieutenant Hunker and Ensign Bipley following in another car- 
riage. A salute of thirteen guns was fired from " The Castle." A 
company of the Fifty-eighth Regiment, under Captains Compton 
and Jopp, were at the central wharf as guard of honor. The band 
of the Fifty-eighth Regiment, under Bandmaster Moran, was also 
present, and played ' Hail Columbia' when the admiral stepped 
out of his boat. Sub-Inspector Elliott, with several members of 
the police force, were present to keep the crowd back, as also 
Mr. Shaw, commissioner of police." 

The boilers needed scaling, and during our stay the engineer's 



246 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

department removed six tons of scale from them and overhauled 
the valves and machinery. Advantage was taken of this oppor- 
tunity for giving all hands general liberty, and none were deprived 
of the privilege of having a little recreation. The ship was 
thronged with visitors, especially on Sunday afternoons, and the 
people generally extended the most cordial hospitality to all. 

Lieutenant-General the Honorable Sir Leicester and Lady 
Smyth were at home at " The Vineyard" at Newlands, where they 
entertained the admiral and his personal staff at luncheon, and 
also Captain Weaver, Lieutenant Beehler, and Mr. Alexander, at 
dinner, which they enjoyed very much. The officers of the Royal 
Artillery at " The Castle" and of the Fifty-eighth Regiment of 
the line were very courteous, and frequently visited the officers of 
the ship, who in turn were always heartily welcomed at the regi- 
mental mess. The officers made a great many friends, and in fact 
began to feel and act as if this was one of our own ports. 

On March 27 the steamer " Mexican" arrived from London 
with the governor of Cape Colony, Sir Hercules Robinson, who 
relieved the administrator, Lieutenant-General Smyth. The event 
occasioned a military parade to receive the governor, and a salute 
of seventeen guns was fired upon his landing. Admiral Phelps, 
Captain Weaver, and staff called upon His Excellency on the 
Monday following, March 31, which visit the governor returned 
on Thursday, April 10. 

The Dutch unarmored cruiser " Atjeh" arrived in port on 
March 30, homeward bound from Batavia. This vessel is of con- 
siderable interest as being one of the first of modern fast cruisers. 
She is armed with six 17-centimetre and four 12-eentimetre 
Krupp breech-loading rifles. She has made a speed of fourteen 
and a half knots, but generally steams at eight knots, and with 
full power hardly makes over twelve. She has recessed ports in 
the bow and stern for pivots, the other eight guns being mounted 
in broadside. Her hull is of iron, sheathed with wood, and ex- 
ternally resembles a merchant steamer in that her sides are smooth 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 247 

and have no spare spars, chain-plates, nor box-chutes. She was 
built in 1879, and was returning home from a cruise in the 
East Indies. The usual visits were exchanged with customary 
naval ceremony. The Dutch consul, Mr. Myburgh, gave a very 
handsome entertainment to the officers of the " Atjeh," at which 
the officers of the " Brooklyn" and the English regiments were 
^cordially invited to assist. This was a very pleasant affair, and 
took place the evening before the " Atjeh's" departure for Hol- 
land. 

On Tuesday, April 1, a cablegram was received, announcing 
the sudden death of Leopold, Duke of Albany, the youngest son 
of the Queen of England. The news spread rapidly, and we half- 
masted our colors, as did all other vessels in the harbor, in token 
of our sympathy with the English people in their bereavement. 
Before this occurred the officers had proposed to give a reception 
on board ship to express their appreciation of the kind hospitality 
which the people of Cape Town had extended, and the day was 
fixed for the Saturday following, but out of respect to the death 
of the Duke of Albany it was postponed until after the burial. 

Accordingly invitations to a reception by Admiral Phelps, Cap- 
tain Weaver, and the officers, for Monday, April 7, from two to 
five P.M., were sent to all their friends. The morning was cloudy 
and rainy, but it cleared off by noon, after which it was delight- 
fully cool. The officers were assigned to different duties and did 
their utmost to insure a pleasant afternoon. The deck was very 
prettily decorated with an effective arrangement of flags and bunt- 
ing to line the awnings and curtain the rail, the guns were set off 
by bouquets of flowers, and the cabins arranged for the recep- 
tion of the guests. The wardroom and steerage were set apart for 
refreshments, for which purpose the services of the celebrated 
caterer, M. Wronsky, of the Parliament Cafe, were called into 
requisition to assist the regular servants, with highly gratifying 
results. The band occupied the port gangway, and contributed a 
great deal to the enjoyment of the guests by their excellent music. 



248 TEE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Our boats were sent to the Clock Tower wharf, and brought the 
guests off to the ship as they came down ; and the reception com- 
mittee received and conducted them to the cabins, after presenting 
them to the admiral and Mrs. Siler, the wife of the United States 
consul, who had kindly consented to receive for us. 

The governor, Sir Hercules Kobinson, sent his regrets because 
of a recent death in the family ; but Lieutenant-General Smyth 
represented him, and came on board at 2.30 P.M. with Lady 
Smyth and his aide-de-camp. When the barge approached with 
the general, the marine guard formed on the quarter-deck and the 
prescribed naval ceremonies were observed. When they came 
over the side the guard came to present arms, the drum gave three 
rolls, and the band played " God Save the Queen," after which 
the party proceeded into the admiral's cabin, Lady Smyth and 
the general being escorted there by the admiral and Captain 
Weaver, by whom they were duly presented to Mrs. Siler. The 
guests included about three hundred of the most prominent people 
in Cape Town and vicinity, among whom there were the consuls 
of different nations and their families, officers and ladies from 
"The Castle" and belonging to the English regiments, naval offi- 
cers, including Captain Penfold, captain of the port, members of 
the civil service, Mr. Finlay and family, superintendent of the 
Cape Observatory, and the leading professional men, bankers, and 
merchants with their families. One and all seemed to enjoy their 
visit to the ship, and everything passed off so pleasantly that many 
remained until after sunset. 

The same ceremonies were observed when the general left as 
upon his arrival, and while the guard was standing at present 
arms and the band playing the English national hymn, the scene 
on the quarter-deck was a very pretty picture. The decorations, 
flowers, and the fine soldierly appearance of the guard, surrounded 
by the beauty and grace of the ladies, was a combination which 
will not be forgotten by those present. 

When the band finished, the general stepped up and paid a 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 249 

handsome compliment to the fine appearance of the marines. This 
unusual act of courtesy expressed volumes in behalf of the popu- 
lar general. For this little act, which was intended to reflect 
credit on the ship, proved him a most considerate gentleman, and 
no wonder he was such a very great favorite among the people of 
Cape Colony. 

DR. HOLTJB'S SOUTH AFRICAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 

Saturday, April 5, we visited the Commercial Exchange, where 
Dr. Holub had an exhibition of his outfit for a journey of explora- 
tion to Central Africa through the Orange Free State, Transvaal, 
and into the unknown territory of Central Africa to the north- 
ward. Dr. Holub has made a profession of this subject, and a 
general description of his system and outfit cannot fail to be in- 
teresting, especially to us in connection with our cruise in com- 
paratively unfrequented waters. Dr. Holub has been engaged in 
explorations of different lands for many years, but this was to be 
the most extensive yet undertaken. He had devoted several years 
to study and preparation at Prague and Vienna, in order to famil- 
iarize himself with all that is known about Central Africa, and 
obtain all the requisites for a thoroughly scientific expedition. 

He arrived at Cape Town early in January, but was delayed 
by unforeseen difficulties, among which the payment of colonial 
duties upon the articles of his outfit was the most vexatious. 
This left him rather short of funds, and the exhibition of this 
outfit, at a small charge for admission, was tried as a means of 
raising some money to defray expenses. In passing we should 
note that money for such enterprises comes from the liberality of 
large-minded people who are interested in scientific research which 
will benefit the whole human race, and who, as a rule, encourage 
these enterprises out of the best possible motives to do good. 

The most prominent feature in the collection of articles com- 
prising this outfit was an iron whale-boat in the centre of the 
room, resting on a carriage, showing how the boat is transported 



250 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

overland. This boat was admirably fitted up with all kinds of 
fishing-tackle, nets, approved forms of spears for spearing fish in 
clear water, trawls, and other instruments for thorough investiga- 
tion of the streams which the party might visit in their journey. 
At one end of the room there was a pile of note-books, classified 
for different branches of research in the animal, vegetable, and 
mineral kingdoms. Dr. Holub's party consisted of himself and wife 
and eight assistants, each of whom was a specialist in some one of 
the different branches of natural science. Parties of natives were 
to be employed occasionally as circumstances should require, but to 
have nothing to do with the scientific collections. The note-books 
were to be used by the party for reference, as each book contained 
full descriptions of all known varieties of insect and animal life, 
the flora, and all forms of vegetable life, and the minerals. On 
the journey everything was to be thoroughly examined and com- 
pared with these books of reference. In case of any well-known 
species, the fact of its existence in that locality was to be noted, 
and, if unknown, a thorough description to be entered in the notes, 
and the object itself, if possible, stored away in the collection for 
further study after the journey. 

The armory occupied one corner, and comprised about a dozen 
different kinds of breech-loading rifles and fowling-pieces. This 
feature was open to criticism, because the different kinds of weapons 
necessitate different kinds of ammunition, and they ran the risk 
of confusion in this respect, which may occur at a critical time 
and result in disaster. Most of the arms were presents from prom- 
inent men, and this accounts for the different varieties. He had 
no Hotchkiss magazine-rifles, which would be especially advanta- 
geous, and in view of the large amount of stores and their great 
value, a Gatling-gun would not have been amiss ; these, with fowling- 
pieces, would have been a much more efficient armament than the 
mixed assortment he had. 

The bulk of the outfit consisted of articles for barter and 
presents to native chiefs, by which the party obtained provisions 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 251 

and protection in their journey. They comprised a very large 
assortment of all kinds of articles, among which were elegant 
bronzes, statuettes, mirrors in Russia-leather cases, Bohemian 
glass-ware, silver-plated ware of all descriptions, silks, embroidery, 
fancy- colored prints, cretonne, chintz, velvets, highly-colored 
dry goods of all kinds, some of considerable value, clocks, cheap 
watches, cheap Parisian jewelry, beads of all kinds, photographs, 
meerschaum-pipes, musical instruments of different kinds, and in 
general a complete assortment of articles which may be found 
in the fashionable retail shops of large cities. We were aston- 
ished to find such a fine collection of objects for trade and presents 
to negro chiefs ; their amazement at some of these things can be 
imagined, and doubtless they have secured the friendly assistance 
of all the natives they met, provided sufficient precautions were 
taken to prevent their savage greed from exciting them to destroy 
the whole party. 

After reaching the frontier of civilization Dr. Holub's outfit 
was reduced to six tons of freight, which was transported in the 
typical South African wagons, each drawn by eight yoke of oxen. 
The convoy covered about a mile, and their encampments on the 
plains resembled a large village. 

Dr. Holub was especially courteous to all visitors to the exhi- 
bition, and whenever he enumerated the qualifications of the mem- 
bers of the expedition spoke in highest terms of his wife, who, be- 
sides attending to their domestic comfort as only woman can, is an 
excellent shot with a rifle, and not only knows how to cook the 
game, but is also an expert taxidermist. He explained every detail 
of his expedition with a great deal of pains, and was pleased with 
all who manifested any interest in his work. 

A VISIT TO MR. VAN REENEN'S VINEYARD AT HIGH CON- 
STANTLY 

Friday, March 28, a party of the officers of this ship were 
handsomely entertained by Mr. Van Reenen at his vineyard at 



r 



252 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

High Constantia, a few miles out of Cape Town. A stylish drag- 
drawn by four handsome iron-gray horses conveyed the party over 
a beautiful road to the vineyard. Every one was in good spirits, 
and jokes were cracked in unison with the wbip, as they sped along 
through the charming rural scenery. Here and there trees were 
seen, without backstays, bent over by the wind, each recording 
in its growth the violence of the gales, and suggesting another 
reef to the minds of the weather-beaten sailors. Most of the old 
houses have Dutch-thatched roofs, of mediaeval character, soft and 
smooth as plush, and highly suggestive of home comforts, to which 
those who " go down to the sea in ships" are, for the time being, 
such strangers. 

How to express the admiration of the scenery would almost 
baffle a poet, and as man prizes most that which he can rarely 
obtain, so our party simply feasted with their eyes upon the road- 
side pines, eucalyptus-trees, oaks and firs, which, overlapping over- 
head, seemed a canopy of verdure of bewitching beauty. It did 
not seem possible that it was twelve miles, the drive was so 
quickly done, and yet it took over one hour and thirty minutes. 
But no mistake, we were at High Constantia, and entering the 
enclosure, the drag stopped in front of Mr. Van Reenen's house, 
who came out to extend a most cordial welcome. The Messrs. 
Benjamin also came forward, and the party were soon made to 
feel themselves at home. None can forget the courteous hospi- 
tality of our host, and how carefully he explained every detail 
of wine-culture and the scientific care required in growing the 
grape and making the wine. 

The Constantia wines rank among the best in the world, and 
their reputation in Europe has been very high, much more so than 
Cape Colonists, who disparage their own produce, credit. Mr. 
Van Reenen's vineyard is the oldest in the colony, having been in 
the possession of his family since 1660. Its locality is especially 
lovely and beggars description. In the background the Constantia 
hills enclose sloping and terraced grounds like an amphitheatre, 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 253 

bordered with beautiful silver-trees, whose leaves at this time re- 
flected the sunlight to spread a halo over all the enclosure. The 
view in the foreground over the vineyard was strikingly beautiful, 
with the contrast of color of the different species of vines, the dark, 
red, and brown Pontac separated from the pea-green and yellow 
Stein and Constantia vines by the deep olive fir-hedges, which 
bordered the central pathway across the vineyard. The dwelling- 
house, with its broad verandas and air of comfort, looked especially 
inviting, and when our host took us in to luncheon we found sub- 
stantial evidence of the excellence of the good things at Constantia. 
How we passed the Constantia around and drank the health of our 
genial host can be imagined, but our enjoyment cannot be ex- 
pressed. The ice-cream watermelon, grown from seed from the 
States, was as mellow as the guests, and gave our host a chance 
to testify his admiration for the produce of American origin, while 
we were enjoying that of Constantia. 

After luncheon we visited the wine-press, where our host ex- 
plained the process of wine-making. Mr. Van Reenen had sixty 
acres under cultivation in the old vineyard and forty acres out- 
side ; the soil is a red ochrous loam and requires but little ma- 
nure. The vines are not allowed to grow to any height or to bear 
a large quantity of grapes, so that the quality of the wine product 
may not be impaired. Three thousand vines are planted to the 
acre, which yield twenty-four thousand pounds of grapes, from 
which they obtain twelve leagers, or fifteen hundred and twenty- 
four gallons, of wine every year. The vines have to be carefully 
pruned at different seasons, and the original root is left in the 
ground for many years. Most of the bearing vines are seventy 
years old, while there are some which have been planted over one 
hundred years. The grapes are collected in March and April, 
when almost in the condition of raisins, so that the vintage is like 
a highly-esteemed liqueur. The press consists of a large tub, in 
which six men tread the grapes, dancing around the tub and sing- 
ing bacchanalian songs, while the juices are pressed out to flow 

17 



254 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

from the bottom into a wooden pan, whence they are pumped into 
a large wooden vat. There is no machinery used, none as yet 
having been devised which does not produce an inferior quality 
of wine, the pressure of the human foot treading in the press 
giving the best results. The juices ferment in the vats, where the 
impurities are evaporated ; the sweet wines remain in them about 
two days, the dry from four to five days, after which they are 
drawn off into casks and sent to market. After the grapes are 
trod in the wine-press the skins and stems are rubbed over a cane 
sieve to collect all the juices, after which they are taken to boilers 
and distilled into brandy. 

The following varieties of grapes are grown at High Con- 
stantia, the wines produced being named after the vineyard and 
also the grape : Pontac, the only grape which produces a red wine 
from the pulp without the skin, Stein, Hermitage, Chasselas 
blanc, Kiesslinger, red and white Muscat of Alexandria, and red 
and white Muscatel. Champagne has been produced by natural 
process at Constantia, but it did not pay, because foreign cham- 
pagnes were preferred by consumers. It has been suggested to 
make it artificially by impregnating the Constantia wines with 
carbonic acid gas, which would be cheaper, while equally as 
good as any. 

We returned to the house after a visit to the garden and the 
" eyry" in an old oak-tree, whose branches had grown over to 
enclose the wood-work of the room, exemplifying the fertility of 
the soil. In the mean time our drag had been ordered, and with 
profuse thanks for the delightful entertainment we reluctantly 
bade adieu to our kind host and returned to the ship. 

THE SILVER-TREE. 

This tree is called in botany Leucodendron argenteum, mean- 
ing silvery-white leaf. It grows on the slopes of Table Mountain 
to about thirty feet high, with branches at about eight feet above 
the ground. It bears a cone similar in shape and size to the pine- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 255 

cone. These cones contain small round black seed attached to 
feathery tufts, by which they are disseminated. The leaves, when 
pressed and dried, are very beautiful and will last for years. They 
may be written upon and painted without other preparation. 
A fac-simile of the silver leaf embellishes the cover of this book. 
The tree only grows near Cape Town. It will not thrive when 
cultivated. 

SOUTH AFRICA. 

The cruise in the eastern waters of our station has naturally 
awakened considerable interest among our readers to know some- 
thing more definite about the Dark Continent, and more especially 
that part which we visited. 

South Africa is meant to include all the territory south of the 
Portuguese possessions on the east and west coasts of Africa. 
That is, from Delagoa Bay, in the province of Mozambique, 
around Cape Agulhas to the Cunene River, which forms the rec- 
ognized southern boundary of the Portuguese possessions on the 
west coast of Africa. The British Cape Colony forms the south- 
ern part of this territory, its boundary on the north being the 
Orange River, which separates it from the Trans-Gariep territory, 
a little-known and but partially-explored country, extending north- 
ward to the southern boundary of the Portuguese possessions on 
the west coast. 

The province of Griqualand West is a part of the Cape Colony, 
and lies north of the Orange River, between the 22d and 25th 
meridians of east longitude. This province contains the famous 
Kimberly diamond-fields. The Orange Free State lies east of 
this province and north of the Orange River. The Transvaal 
State is north of the Orange Free State, from which it is separated 
by the Vaal River. On the east coast Cape Colony is bounded by 
Kaffraria, which extends from the Great Kei River to the colony 
of Natal, and into the interior to the Drakensberg Mountains. 
Basutoland lies between Kaffraria and the Orange Free State, all 



256 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

three of which states are bounded on the north and east by NataL 
Natal extends on the coast to the Tugela River, which forms its 
boundary with Zululand. Zululand is bounded on the north by 
the province of Mozambique and west by the Transvaal State. 
The geography of the states of South Africa thus gives the fol- 
lowing as the order of the states from Delagoa Bay to Cunene 
River, viz. : Zululand, Natal, Transvaal, Orange Free State, Basu- 
toland, Kaffraria, Cape Colony, the Trans-Gariep, and the country 
of the Betchuanas, north of Griqualand West. 

The province of Griqualand West was annexed to the Cape 
Colony in October, 1880. Its representation in the Colonial Par- 
liament is one member in the legislative council and six members 
in the house of assembly. This province is important because it 
contains the diamond-fields. When the diamondiferous region 
was discovered the country was under the government of the 
Orange Free State, but really belonged to the native Griqua chief 
named Waterboer. The great rush to the diamond-fields necessi- 
tated a stronger government than could be maintained by either 
Waterboer or the Free State, and the British flag was hoisted in 
1871. The digging population objected to the British adminis- 
tration, and troops had to be sent there to enforce order. Th& 
claims of the Free State to the territory were disposed of in 1876 
by a special convention, in accordance with which the Free State 
abandoned all claims to the territory for the sum of ninety thou- 
sand pounds, which was paid by the British government ; but the 
objection of the European settlers and uprisings among the natives 
delayed the final annexation until 1880. 

The Kimberly and De Beer's diamond mines (the two largest 
mines) belong to the British government, having been bought 
from private companies for the sum of one hundred thousand 
pounds. The other two well-known mines — Du Toits Pan and 
Bultfontein — belong to the London and South African Explora- 
tion Company. But the ownership of the precious stones found 
on these two farms has been the subject of a great deal of litiga- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 257 

tion in the courts. The peculiar nature of these diamond-finds 
has caused stringent laws to be enforced. Ten years hard labor 
on the breakwater at Cape Town is a common penalty for illicit 
diamond-buying, commonly called I. D. B. 

The province of Griqualand West has an area of seventeen 
thousand eight hundred square miles, and in 1877 had a popula- 
tion of forty-four thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven, of 
whom twelve thousand three hundred and seventy-four were Euro- 
peans or whites, and the rest natives, — Hottentots, Kaffirs, etc. 
The country is not very fertile, but could be made so by artificial 
irrigation. 

THE TRANS-GARIEP. 

This unexplored country on the west coast north of the Orange 
River is still held by the natives. In 1876 the government of 
the Cape Colony sent a special commissioner to the natives to ex- 
plain the advantages and benefits they would derive by becoming 
British subjects. The Cape Colony has certain commercial deal- 
ings, and this mission was undertaken in order to anticipate the 
threatened formation of a new republic by emigrant Boers from 
the Transvaal Republic, and also to prevent any other European 
power from getting a footing in the territory. Nothing definite 
has as yet been accomplished in the negotiation for inducing the 
Damaras, as the natives are called, to accept British protection. 
The British have, however, taken possession of Walwich Bay as 
a regular port, where they have established a custom-house and 
magistracy. There are but one hundred and fifty Europeans or 
whites in this unknown country, while the natives are roughly 
■estimated at two hundred and fifty thousand. 

KAEFRARIA. 

This is Kaffirland property. It is a fertile and densely popu- 
lated country on the east coast, between Natal and the Cape 
Colony. Its area is about seventeen thousand square miles, and 
its population is estimated at about four hundred and fifty thou- 



258 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

sand. This country was ruled by a number of native chiefs, 
principally Bushmen, until they were driven out by various races 
from the north. The country has been subject to British influ 
ence, and parts of it have, within the last twelve years, been par- 
celled out among different tribes and races of Kaffirs, Fingoes, 
Basutos, (xriquas, Gaikas, Zulus, and Hottentots. The whole 
territory is divided into four districts, — Transkei, Griqualand 
East, Tembuland, and Pondoland. All of these except the last 
are now under the direct authority of British magistrates, though 
the native chiefs in the different districts exercise their tribal 
authority. In Pondoland a British resident magistrate merely 
acts as a sort of umpire when disputes arise between different 
tribes. White men are not allowed to settle or to trade with the 
natives in the reservations of Kaffirland. 

The colonists of South Africa have had a continual war with 
the natives, and the only end of such a strife must be in the ex- 
termination or incorporation of these tribes with the settlers. 
The " survival of the fittest" has here its greatest force ; the 
native must make room before the superior intelligence and power 
of the white colonists. The various methods of state policy have 
been tried in every field here, as with our Indians in the United 
States. Force is followed by humanitarian measures, and this by 
force again, each doing its measure of the work of incorporating 
and breaking up the tribal characteristics, until the savage finds 
he cannot escape the influence of the surrounding civilization. 
The reservation of Kaffraria is thus gradually becoming more 
and more contracted, and fears of hostile incursions by the natives 
are no longer entertained in this vicinity. 

The governor of Cape Colony also holds the office of high com- 
missioner, the duties of which require him to exercise a jurisdic- 
tion over all questions arising between the native reservations of 
Kaffraria and the adjacent states of South Africa. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 259 

BASUTOLAND. 

This might be included as a part of Kaffraria, except that it 
has been regularly annexed as a province of the Cape Colony. It 
adjoins the eastern boundary of the Orange Free State, and lies 
west of Natal and northwest of Kaffraria. The Basutos are a 
tribe of Betchuanas and number about one hundred and twenty- 
seven thousand souls. They have carried on desperate border 
wars with the Orange Free State, in which they were badly 
defeated, and when reduced to the last extremity put themselves 
under British protection. Peace was established in 1869, and 
in 1871 it was duly annexed to the Cape Colony. 

All these states are in the course of being absorbed by the 
Cape Colony, and there remain for our consideration Natal, 
Orange Free State, Transvaal, and Zululand. 

NATAL. 

The colony of Natal has a coast-line of about one hundred and 
fifty miles on the Indian Ocean, and is situated directly between 
the native states of Kaffraria on the south and Zululand on the 
north, while a narrow neck of territory extends up in the north- 
western corner to border on the Orange Free State and the Trans- 
vaal. Natal was discovered on Christmas-day, 1497, by the Por- 
tuguese, and was so named in memory of that circumstance. 
Neither they nor the Dutch, who subsequently visited it, formed 
any permanent settlement there. It was visited by the English 
in 1823, who found it in possession of the Zulus, the leader of 
whom, Dingaan, murdered the previous chief and became king. 
He invited the emigrant Boers from the Cape Colony to visit him 
at his " Great Place," in the Zulu country, in 1838, and then, 
after having signed a treaty ceding the Natal country to the Boers, 
he and his followers fell upon his guests and massacred nearly 
every one of them. The Zulus simultaneously attacked the Boers' 
camp, and six hundred Boer men, women, and children perished 
in Natal. The Boers then collected in force and routed the Zulus. 



260 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

They installed Panda, a brother of Dingaan, as chief of the Zulus, 
while they became masters of the country south of the Tugela 
River. In 1842, after a resistance from the emigrant Boers, 
Natal was taken possession of by the British government, and in 
1855 was proclaimed a district of the Cape Colony. The Zulu 
chief, Panda, died in 1872, and his son, Cetewayo (pronounced 
Ketch-wi'-o), was made king of the Zulus by Mr. Shepstone, Sec- 
retary for Native Affairs in Natal, as the representative of the 
Queen of England. The career of this famous chieftain is given 
in the narrative of the recent Zulu war. 

In 1875, Sir G-arnet Wolseley arrived in Natal as governor of 
the colony, which was then given an independent colonial govern- 
ment. A legislature was established, which, after a series of 
changes, now consists of thirty members, twenty-three of whom 
are elected by the people of Natal and seven are appointed by the 
British government. The natives are governed by a peculiar na- 
tive law. The sale of fire-arms and powder to natives is strictly 
forbidden, and all ammunition is imported and controlled by the 
government. In the towns no colored persons are allowed to be 
abroad after the hour of nine P.M., and no strange natives are 
allowed to remain in the town beyond five days unless they are 
employed. 

The climate is healthy, though almost tropical on the coast. 
The census of 1881 shows that there were 400,676 inhabitants in 
Natal, of whom 30,296 were whites, 24,685 coolies from India, 
and the rest natives. There are three railroads in the colony, — 
one along the south coast, one north, and the third, a main trunk 
line through the colony to the northwest corner, where it will 
eventually lead up by branches to the capitals of the Orange Free 
State and Transvaal. The wealth of the colony can be judged 
from its trade. In 1882 the value of the imports was ten million 
seven hundred and eighty thousand dollars, and the exports two 
million five hundred and sixty-three thousand one hundred dollars. 
The chief articles of export are wool, sugar, hides, ostrich-feathers, 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 261 

and ivory. Coffee, cotton, and tobacco have been cultivated, but 
they do not pay. 

The city of Durban, at the head of the Bay of Natal, is a 
thriving town of fourteen thousand one hundred and eighty-nine 
inhabitants, of whom seven thousand four hundred and ninety- 
four are Europeans. The streets are well lighted and in good 
condition. There are several fine buildings in the town, and 
others in course of erection. The harbor is bad and exposed to 
heavy southeast gales. The telegraph-cable from Europe via 
Suez and Mozambique terminates at Durban. 

THE ORANGE FREE STATE. 

This republic lies north of the Orange River, which separates it 
from the Cape Colony, and south of the Vaal River, which forms 
its boundary with the Transvaal State. This country was settled 
by the " trek" Boers of 1838, who were dissatisfied with the 
British government in the Cape Colony and with the consequences 
following the abolition of slavery. The emancipation of slavery 
in the Cape Colony was enforced by the British government with- 
out regard to the state of the crops when the edict reached the 
colonists, and entailed such disastrous consequences that the 
Dutch farmers, called Boers, " trekked" (emigrated) to new fields 
where they might enjoy their patriarchal rule undisturbed. A 
part of these Boer " trekkers" settled in Natal, and were, as we 
have seen, again subjected to British rule ; a second party settled 
in Transvaal, where they triumphed over the British in the recent 
Boer war ; and a third party founded the Free State, which has 
maintained its independence ever since. 

The Orange Free State contains seventy-two thousand square 
miles, and in 1880 had a total population of one hundred and 
thirty- four thousand five hundred and thirteen, of whom sixty- 
one thousand and twenty-two are whites. The government is a 
republic ; the president is elected for the term of five years, and 
the congress, called " Volksraad," is composed of representatives 



262 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

elected for four years, one-half of whom are elected every two 
years. There is also an executive council of five members, of 
which the president is chairman. This resembles our cabinet, ex- 
cept that with the council the president has much more power 
than our president can exercise. 

The country is level, and very little of it is under cultivation. 
Cattle-raising is the principal pursuit. The western part of the 
state adjoins the diamond-fields, and there are some diamond-fields 
in the Orange Free State. The Griqualand West territory was a 
part of the state until the English took . possession by paying a 
sum of money. When the Boers first settled the country they 
drove out the native negro tribes so effectually that they have had 
but little trouble with them since. 

The chief town is the capital, — Bloemfontein, — about ninety 
miles east of Kimberly. It is a small town, and its climate is so 
excellent that it is a health resort for invalids from the diamond- 
fields and other points. There are about thirty-five other towns 
and villages. The country has been prosperous, and its wealth 
can be judged from the government revenue, which for 1882 was 
one million one hundred and fifty-eight thousand dollars, and the 
expenditure for the same year one million seventy-seven thousand 
three hundred dollars. The president is His Honor J. H. Brand. 

The Orange Free State has no sea-board and no relations with 
any other countries of the world. All foreign relations are carried 
on through the governor of Cape Colony, who is also high com- 
missioner for the countries of South Africa adjacent to the Cape 
Colony, so that practically the Orange Free State is under the 
protection of Great Britain. 

THE TEANSVAAL STATE. 

This was formerly known as the South African Republic, and 
was founded by emigrant Boers. This country, as its name indi- 
cates, lies " across" north of the Vaal River, and is, like the 
Orange Free State, without any sea-coast. It is separated from 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 263 

the east coast by Natal, Zululand, and the Portuguese province of 
Mozambique. Its area is about one hundred and fifteen thousand 
square miles, and it contains forty thousand whites and about eight 
hundred thousand native inhabitants. Farming pursuits engage 
the attention of nearly the whole country, though the gold-fields of 
Leydenberg district are very rich, and it is probable that these 
mines will indirectly contribute a great deal to the development 
of the entire country. 

The history of this country may be said to commence when 
Great Britain recognized the independence of the South African 
Republic by the Sand River convention in 1852. In 1859 the 
Transvaal and Orange Free State wanted to confederate, but were 
prevented from doing so by the English. Disputes were frequent 
in regard to the boundary-lines, and gave rise to considerable es- 
trangement between the inhabitants of the two states. In 1873 
the Leydenberg gold-fields were discovered and caused a great rush 
to that part of the state. President Burgers then entered into a 
treaty with the Portuguese for the construction of a railroad to 
Delagoa Bay, which is only one hundred and fifty miles from the 
gold-fields, and which will be the seaport of the Transvaal State. 

In 1876 war was declared against Secoceini, a rebel chief resid- 
ing in the republic, but this war was a complete failure. The 
Boers did not rally to the support of the government, and as long 
as they themselves were not molested in person or property they 
simply let the government take care of itself. The Transvaal 
Boers may be considered that class of Dutch farmers who have 
been the most bitter against the English. When they emigrated 
they trekked as far as possible, and felt sure of having rid them- 
selves of the hated " Englischman," with whom they have noth- 
ing in common. The Boer is a simple, uneducated countryman. 
He likes to be out of the sight of his neighbor's smoke, and it is 
a source of satisfaction to him to live fifteen or twenty miles 
away from any other man's dwelling. He is very religious and 
prides himself on his godliness, in accordance with the Calvinistic 



264 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

teachings. His ambition is to have large flocks and to rule his 
household like the old patriarchs, unmolested. He takes no in- 
terest in the government and hates taxes, which, somehow, are 
indelibly connected with the English, from whose detested rule 
he had migrated. The finances were in a most deplorable condi- 
tion, and the government could not even raise the paltry sum of 
fifty pounds to pay the salaries of some subordinates. Having 
lost their credit and the hope of credit, the president and execu- 
tive council found themselves on the verge of bankruptcy and 
powerless to carry on the government. 

Sir Theophilus Shepstone visited the country early in 1877 in 
order to induce the South African Republic to join the proposed 
South African Confederation. President Burgers called the 
" Volksraad" (congress) to meet to consider this proposition, and 
a number of influential Boers then thought that, as they could 
not carry on the government themselves, it would be best to ask 
the annexation to Great Britain at once and save themselves from 
any further consideration of the too difficult financial problem. 
Shepstone was very popular with the Boers, much more so than 
their own President Burgers, who was very much disliked by the 
old Dutch party. The Volksraad avoided the question of con- 
federation, but a great many Boers and other citizens, mostly 
English traders, signed a petition for annexation, and as the oppo- 
nents of this measure did not protest, Shepstone believed that an- 
nexation was desired by a large majority of people. The Volks- 
raad promised to appeal to their constituents on the subject of the 
new constitution, and immediately after doing so passed an act, 
which was familiarly called the " Hou jou smoel" law, meaning 
" hold your jaw," and which made it treason to discuss the 
question of confederation or annexation. 

It appears, however, that annexation was determined upon in 
England before Shepstone visited the country, and that he had 
secret instructions to resort to force if necessary to effect the an- 
nexation. The prospects of the recently discovered gold-fields 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 265 

had excited England's historical greed of territory, and the finan- 
cial troubles of the government afforded an excellent excuse. 
The annexation was proclaimed on April 12, 1877, and Sir T. 
Shepstone became administrator of the government. Shepstone's 
personal popularity with the majority of the Boers contributed to 
make the Boers overlook the fact that their country was in actual 
possession of the English. It took some time for the simple Dutch 
farmers to realize the meaning of annexation. They all knew Sir T. 
Shepstone, and felt as if he were their countryman. His first act 
was the abolition of an oppressive war tax, so that his government 
immediately became very popular ; the finances were taken in 
hand, conciliatory negotiations were made with neighboring hostile 
natives, and everything promised to run smoothly. 

But the Boers did not want to be English, and gradually be- 
came aroused to the fact that they had lost their independence. 
Meetings were held, at which many protested against the annexa- 
tion, and a deputation was sent to England, which asked for the 
restoration of the country to the Boers. In this mission they 
were unsuccessful, and their failure only increased the opposition 
to England. Upon their return the agitation continued openly ; 
and in March, 1878, Shepstone issued a proclamation against 
these meetings of " designing persons." At this juncture Sir T. 
Shepstone was recalled by the English government, and the gov- 
ernor of Cape Colony, Sir Bartle Frere, was appointed high com- 
missioner, and, with Sir Owen Lanyon, deputed to administer the 
government of the Transvaal State. 

The agitation against annexation then commenced in earnest. 
The Boers knew that Shepstone had endeavored to obtain a liberal 
representative government for the state, and when he was recalled 
their subjection to Great Britain appeared a decided reality. Sir 
Bartle Frere perceived that the reported majority of Boers in favor 
of annexation never existed. He renewed the fair promises made 
by Shepstone, but was relieved by Sir Garnet Wolseley in August, 
1880, just before the settlement of the Zulu war. 



266 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Sir Owen Lanyon remained at Pretoria virtually in charge of the 
state. He was placed there by the English government, and dis- 
charged his duties solely for England and not for Transvaal. He 
enforced the taxes, fines, and fees with strict integrity, and ex- 
hibited the money to prove that the Boers were satisfied with an- 
nexation. The Natal law prohibiting the sale of gunpowder with- 
out a license was strictly enforced, and several prominent Boers 
went to prison in preference to paying the fine of five pounds. An 
immense meeting of Boers took place at Paarde Kraal, at which 
it was decided to make a formal declaration of their independence 
on December 16, 1880. In order to effect this they wanted to 
print their proclamation, and as the only available printing-office 
was at Potchefstrom, where there was a force of British soldiers, 
the Boers sent an armed force to compel the printer to do the 
work and then return to the camp. The English garrison con- 
sisted of two hundred men with two 9-pounders, and occupied a 
fort outside of the town, the jail, and court-house. A force of 
five hundred Boers entered the town on the 15th of November, 
1880, and seized the printing-office. They took possession of the 
town and defied the British garrison, who kept inside their barri- 
cades. When the Boers left a detachment of soldiers was sent 
after them, and in the excitement they commenced firing and one 
of the soldiers was wounded. 

In the mean time the administrator, Sir Owen Lanyon, saw that 
matters were becoming dangerous, and wrote to Sir George Colley, 
who had succeeded Sir Garnet Wolseley as high commissioner, to 
send reinforcements to the Transvaal. He issued a series of proc- 
lamations denouncing the "misguided leaders," and asserting that 
England would never restore the independence of the Boers. This 
last clause gave confidence to the loyal Boers, but they were a 
small minority, while the mass of the people felt that the time for 
the struggle had really come. It would fill a volume to give the 
details of the different battles, the sieges which English garrisons 
sustained in the different towns, and the disasters which they met 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 267 

at every encounter with the determined Boers. The first engage- 
ment occurred at Bronkhurst Spruit, where three hundred men of 
the Ninety-fourth Regiment were attacked on their march to the 
capital, Pretoria. The officer in command, Colonel Anstruther, 
was warned beforehand, but did not believe he would be attacked, 
and took no extra precautions. His convoy of thirty ox-wagons, 
etc., each drawn by sixteen or eighteen bullocks, covered over a 
mile of road even when in close order. He left Middleberg on De- 
cember 19, and upon arriving at Bronkhurst Spruit he saw a large 
force of Boers on all sides of the convoy. He then ordered a halt, 
and sent word to close up. A messenger from Piet Joubert, who, 
with S. P. Kruger and M. W. Pretorius, formed a Boer triumvi- 
rate, rode up and handed a note to the colonel, requesting him to 
halt until a reply was received to the ultimatum which the Boers 
had sent to Sir Owen Lanyon. The note also declared that if the 
colonel should advance one step beyond the Spruit it would be 
considered a declaration of war. The colonel replied that he 
would march to Pretoria, and proceeded to do so, when the Boers 
appeared in force in front and opened fire. The British deployed as 
skirmishers, but in less than ten minutes one hundred and twenty 
soldiers were killed and wounded by the wonderfully accurate fire 
of the Boers. The English returned the fire as best they could, but 
it was of no use ; the " cease fire" was sounded, and handkerchiefs 
promptly waved to denote submission. The colonel and a large 
percentage of officers were killed and the whole command captured. 

The Boers have been accused of treachery for this fight, but 
evidence shows that the English paid no attention to the Boer 
threats, and that they were attacked fairly. The English officials 
had pigeon-holed all the Boer petitions and memorials, and would 
not believe that the Boers would ever fight. 

Sir George Colley then collected all available troops in Natal to 
invade Transvaal, but the Boers did not wait for him. They had 
things pretty much their own way in Transvaal, where most of 
the English troops were besieged in the towns, and accordingly 



268 THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 

marched to the Natal frontier, and selected Laing Neck, a point 
on the road from Natal to Pretoria, at which to make their final 
stand. The Boers occupied a ridge in front of Henry Laing's 
farm-house, which was surrounded by a stone wall, when the 
British troops advanced at six A.M., January 28, 1881. The 
English force was the Fifty-eighth Regiment, five hundred men ; 
Sixtieth Rifles, four hundred ; naval brigade, one hundred and 
twenty ; twelve field-pieces and about two hundred mounted men, 
making a total of about fourteen hundred men. The artillery 
opened fire at ten A.M., and after shelling the ridge for twenty 
minutes the mounted squadron charged a hillock on the Boers' 
left. The Fifty-eighth then advanced near the centre, supported 
by the rifles. The Boers reserved their fire until the cavalry 
gained the summit, when they poured in a volley, which emptied 
half the saddles and forced the rest to retreat. The Fifty-eighth 
marched up in solid front to charge the ridge as if on parade, and 
were met by a terrible fire in front and on their flanks, which 
compelled them to deploy and take such shelter as the ground 
afforded. But when they rose up to charge, a deadly fire cut the 
regiment up most terribly and obliged them to retreat. The ex- 
cellent artillery practice alone saved them from being annihilated, 
as it prevented the Boers from advancing. The British lost about 
two hundred men killed and wounded, and the Boers none killed 
and twenty-four wounded. The Boers were excellent marksmen ; 
they were accustomed to handling a gun from early boyhood, and 
the British soldiers had not the slightest chance against them. 
Their white helmets and bright red coats afforded good targets, 
which the Boers rarely missed. After the battle Sir George 
Colley waited for reinforcements, and some minor engagements 
took place on the Ingogo Heights and surrounding country during 
the month of February, 1881. 

During the night of the 26th of February word was silently 
passed for detachments of the Fifty-eighth, Sixtieth Rifles, naval 
brigade, and Ninety-second Highlanders, a total of six hundred 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 269 

men, to form for a secret night expedition. At ten o'clock the 
command started from the camp in front of Laing's Neck, and, 
guided by Kaffirs, climbed the steep ascent of Majuba Mountain. 
This hill commanded the Boer camp at Laing's Neck, and with 
its steep precipitous sides could have been made absolutely im- 
pregnable by a force lodged in the basin upon its summit. It was 
nearly dawn when this ascent was accomplished by General Colley 
and his six hundred, and when done the troops were so exhausted 
that they were all given a rest, without taking the most ordinary 
precautions. A party of Highlanders imprudently exposed them- 
selves to view at early dawn, and were so elated with the advan- 
tages of the position they had gained that they shook their fists 
at the Boer camp, and said, " Come up here, you beggars !" The 
Boers did not hear this threat, but they did " come up here." 
The Boer camp was seen astir by the first glimpse of dawn, and 
before the English deemed it possible, a number commenced 
firing up at them from behind boulders in the terraced ground in 
front. The Boers actually stormed the mountain, not in full dis- 
play of regimental parade, but as individuals supporting each 
other. 

The English did not know the nature of the ground they occu- 
pied, and before they made proper dispositions for defence the 
Boers had gained the crest and poured in a most destructive fire 
upon them. The different regiments became confused and mixed 
up in a crowd in the centre of the basin without any organiza- 
tion. A panic suddenly seized them and all took to flight, pur- 
sued by the Boers. General Colley was shot while attempting to 
rally the men, and Commander Romilly, of the naval brigade, fell 
by his side. This flight is graphically described by Mr. Carter, 
an English newspaper reporter, from whose " Narrative of the 
Boer War" this account has been compiled. Mr. Carter ran with 
the rest, and deliberately let himself slide down from the edge of 
the precipice, and landed unhurt on a projecting boulder a great 
distance below, under which he took shelter from the Boer bul- 

18 



270 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

lets. He hid for some time, until summoned by a voice from 
above : " Halloo there ! Coom up ere ; I weel not shut you," 
which induced him to surrender, and being well received, was 
taken to Commandant Smidt, to whom he explained that he was 
a newspaper correspondent. 

The total force on the Boer side, either storming or held in re- 
serve for the attack on Majuba Mountain, was four hundred and 
fifty men. Their loss was one killed and five wounded, while the 
English loss was, officers, six killed, including the general, nine 
wounded, and six prisoners ; men, eighty-six killed, one hundred 
and twenty-five wounded, and fifty-three prisoners, — a total loss 
of two hundred and eighty-five out of the six hundred who went 
to Majuba. The Boers behaved with remarkable humanity ; they 
had beaten the English in every encounter, even when outnum- 
bered and against every advantage in position. They, however, 
did not take any credit to themselves, but ascribed it all to the 
righteousness of their cause, and with most admirable simplicity 
said, " The Lord helped them." 

Sir Evelyn Wood took command after the Majuba disaster, and 
negotiations for peace shortly afterwards resulted in an armistice 
and a convention, by which England submitted to the Boer de- 
mand and restored their independence. The name of the country 
was changed from South African Republic to Transvaal Free 
State, and the Boers consented to acknowledge the " suzerainty" 
of the Queen of England. The term " suzerainty" means that 
England has charge of all foreign relations of the Transvaal State, 
but that the Boers have their own republican government inde- 
pendent of England. An Englishman resides at Pretoria with 
the title of British resident, who has charge of relations with sur- 
rounding natives, and acts as a British minister. The govern- 
ment is administered by a president and Volksraad, similar to 
that of the Orange Free State. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 271 



ZULULAND. 



This territory is occupied by savage negro tribes called Zulus, 
after the name of one of their famous kings. About the be- 
ginning of this century a chief named Chaka obtained ascend- 
ency over the other tribes and organized a standing army, by 
which he weakened the power of independent chiefs and strength- 
ened his own. Military service was compulsory on all males, and 
each one was assigned to a regiment according to his age. These 
regiments thus became the king's and were separated from their 
tribes. The women were divided similarly, and had to marry into 
regiments at the king's command. Regiments were not allowed 
to marry until they were entitled to wear " head-rings," which 
right they obtained when they became forty years old. Chaka 
made war on surrounding natives, and in 1824 allowed the Eng- 
lish to establish a trading-post at Durban. He thought of visiting 
England, but was murdered, and Dingaan succeeded him. Wars 
with the Boers continued until Cetewayo became king, who pre- 
served a nominal peace through the influence of the English. 
The Zulus, however, continued to commit depredations on the 
border, and, finally, a party of them crossed into Natal and killed 
several refugee Zulu women. The English demanded the sur- 
render of the murderers, but Cetewayo refused to give them up. 
In December, 1878, commissioners went to Cetewayo and de- 
manded the recognition of the boundary-line of the Tugela, Buf- 
falo, and Blood Rivers, thence to the Magedala Mountains, and 
then to the Pongolo River. Certain reforms were to be carried 
out in the customs of the people, and the large army was to be at 
once disbanded. The king was also told that unless he complied 
by January 1, 1879, the British army would invade Zululand. 
The terms meant virtually a cession of the country, and no hope 
was entertained of their acceptance. 

The British collected their forces at four points to form four 
invading columns, which were to meet at the " Great Place" of 



272 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Cetewayo. Each column numbered about two thousand men. 
The Zulu army consisted of about twenty-five regiments, and 
numbered in all about forty thousand men. The chief peculiarity 
of these regiments consisted in a simple but wonderfully quick 
manoeuvre of forming circles to outflank an enemy. From this 
formation by the wings they break with great celerity into col- 
umns of regiments or companies, and from these into skirmishing 
order, with reserves and supports. Three or four days' grain car- 
ried by lads, and sometimes a herd of cattle, constitute the Zulu 
commissariat. The Zulu is a born athlete, and can run eight or 
ten miles or walk seventy or eighty without breaking down. He 
is armed with several assegais (short spears), which he can throw 
with sufficient force to kill at fifty yards. Some have muskets 
and rifles, but all, carry assegais. Shields made of rhinoceros- 
hide are carried by some of the chiefs. 

It is not intended to enter into the details of this war. A 
few incidents from " The Story of the Zulu Campaign," by Major 
Aske and Captain Edgell (killed at Ulundi), will convey a fair 
idea of the struggle. 

No reply having been received from Cetewayo by January 11, 
to which date the time was extended, the first column crossed the 
Tugela and marched to Ekowe, about thirty miles north. They 
were opposed by about ten thousand Zulus, and were finally block- 
aded in that place after a series of small engagements, in which 
the British soldiers fought gallantly against overwhelming num- 
bers. The second column failed to cross the river, but the fourth, 
under Colonel Wood, with a large Boer contingent, operated from 
the Transvaal frontier with great success. Lord Chelmsford was 
in command of the army and directed the movements of the third 
column in person. This advanced from the northeastern frontier 
of Natal and had to check a threatened invasion of Natal. 

The third column started from Borke's Drift, on the Buffalo 
River, and detachments were sent ahead to reconnoitre. The 
first, under Major Dartnell, found the enemy on January 21, and 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 273 

was reinforced by a larger body from the second, under Colonel 
Pulleine, who was left in charge of a camp at Isandula. Colonel 
Durnford was then ordered from Rorke's Drift to reinforce Colonel 
Pulleine, and being senior officer took command of the camp, 
which contained a total force of sixteen hundred and twenty-two 
officers and men, — one-half English and the other half Natal 
natives. The battle commenced almost immediately after Durn- 
ford's arrival, at nine A.M., January 22. The Zulus attacked the 
camp with a force of twenty thousand men, but their right wing 
was repulsed, and when the English thought the Zulu army 
beaten they were suddenly attacked in the right and rear. It 
seems that in the midst of the engagement, after charging with a 
desperate fanatic recklessness, the Zulus performed their peculiar 
circular evolution and threw their right wing to the centre, the 
centre to the left, and what had been the left stood fast and be- 
came the right. In executing this manoeuvre the English sup- 
posed them in flight and gave chase, but this exposed their rear, 
and before they had time to fix bayonets the enemy entered the 
camp, which, in disregard to positive orders, had not been 
" laagered," and in a moment all was disorder. Then followed a 
hand-to-hand fight, in which the Zulus used their assegais with 
terrible effect, and soon routed the English. Twenty-six English 
officers and six hundred men perished in this sad disaster, while 
the British lost their camp, one hundred and two wagons, two 
guns, twelve hundred rifles, and a large amount of material and 
supplies. A part of the enemy's force remained to plunder the 
camp, while two regiments of four thousand men proceeded to 
Rorke's Drift, where eight officers and one hundred and thirty-one 
men heroically defended the hospital against repeated assaults by 
the savage horde. This force was the king's main body, and 
though they won the British camp at Isandula they did so with 
an immense sacrifice of life, and they were unable to gain any 
other success during the war. The British were, however, held in 
check, and had to await reinforcements before they could proceed. 



274 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The second period of the war began about May 3, after the 
arrival of reinforcements from England, numbering eight thousand 
five hundred men, including two regiments of cavalry. The 
British army met with unvarying success in this period of the 
war, which is marked by the sad death of the son of the late Em- 
peror Louis Napoleon. Shortly after the first advance he volun- 
teered for a reconnoissance, and obtained permission and a suitable 
escort. The prince was young and so ambitious that he, with 
Lieutenant Carey and six men, started off without waiting for the 
rest of the escort, and " off saddled" on a bluff by the Ityotyozi 
River without posting any pickets. A force of Zulus then sur- 
rounded them unperceived, and assegaied the prince as he at- 
tempted to mount. Lieutenant Carey and four others managed 
to escape. 

Cetewayo was finally captured on August 30, and the Zulus were 
compelled to submit to the English government. Lord Chelms- 
ford was relieved of his command just before the close of the war 
by Sir Garnet Wolseley. The war was practically ended before 
the latter arrived, owing to the measures taken by Lord Chelms- 
ford, who was relieved chiefly because of the death of the Prince 
Napoleon. John Dunn, a white Zulu chieftain, contributed to 
the overthrow of Cetewayo, and the country was pacified. Cete- 
wayo was sent to Cape Town and to London to see England's 
power. He was then restored to liberty and replaced as King of 
Zululand. He died a year later, and different chiefs have been 
disputing over the inheritance. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 275 



CHAPTER XV. 

Departure for St. Helena — Impressions upon sighting the Island — Incidents 
of the " Brooklyn's" Stay in Port — Grand Ball given to the Officers by the 
Citizens of Jamestown — Description of St. Helena — History of the Island 
— Napoleon's Exile- — Measures taken by the English to prevent his Escape 
— Failure of the Plans of Napoleon's Eriends — The Remarkable Resem- 
blance of the Chinese Servant to the Ex-Emperor — Napoleon's Pastimes — 
Last Sickness and Death — Curious Coincidence related by an Old Inhabitant 
— Burial at St. Helena — Neglect of Longwood — Napoleon's Remains re 
moved to France — Grand Funeral Procession — Restoration of Napoleon's 
Residence — Cession of the Tomb and Longwood Estate to Napoleon's 
Heirs by Great Britain — The Present Guardian of the Tomb — A Visit to 
Longwood and Description of its Present Condition. 

At ten a.m., Saturday, April 12, we left our snug berth in the 
outer basin of the Alfred Docks, where the ship had comfortably 
weathered the furious southeaster during our stay at Cape Town. 
"We then anchored in Table Bay, near the breakwater, and returned 
the salutes which had been fired when we were in the basin. " The 
Castle" returned our salute to the governor, and tbe Austrian 
school-ship " Donau" fired a national salute to the American flag. 
These official international acts of courtesy having been performed, 
we again got under way, and most regretfully took our departure 
from Cape Town, where all of us left some one or more kind 
friends among its inhabitants. A little flirtation by signals with 
sunflasbes to the villas at Sea Point gave signal officers a " signal" 
advantage over their shipmates ; but just then the band struck up 
" Home, Sweet Home," when a greater interest was manifested in 
our speed, as the fact dawned that most of us would reach our 
homes before we should see this land again. We experienced 
good weather and fair winds throughout, so that the next day we 
uncoupled the propeller and kept under sail alone. We had 



276 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

light to moderate breezes from the south and hauling to the west 
and back again to southeast. It would be difficult to state at 
what time we first got the " southeast trades," because there was 
no decided change in the weather to mark the instant when we 
crossed the southern limit. The log shows that after eight A.M., 
April 17, the wind did not haul to the west of south-southeast, so 
that from that position — latitude 25° 40' south, longitude 8° 10' 
east — it may be said that we had the trade-winds. 

There are no special incidents to record during the passage. 
The usual drills and exercises occupied the daily routine until we 
sighted St. Helena Island at ten a.m. on Wednesday, April 23. 
During that afternoon and night we laid off and on, so that we 
might take up our anchorage off Jamestown the next day during 
daylight. 

A beautiful sunset illumined the island of St. Helena with a 
sombre magnificence. A deep black cloud hung over the island 
as if to point out its tragic history. Nature's memorial to the 
great Napoleon, a huge sarcophagus in mid-ocean. With such 
thoughts, so aptly expressed in the lines quoted from Chateaubriand, 
we passed our watch that night in expectation of arrival in the 
morning. 

As we approached the island it seemed to grow more and more 
repulsive. The steep precipices, barren rocks, and deep ravines, 
all bristling with fortifications, did not invite approach, although 
this was the haven we had sailed for. At 9.30 we rounded 
Barn Point, and soon made out the vessels at anchor in the harbor. 
Bank's Battery, like an eyry in the cliffs, was next passed, then 
the ramparts and works of Rupert's Valley, and finally at 10.15 
we quietly anchored in James Bay. 

Immediately after anchoring we saluted the English flag with 
twenty-one guns, which salute was promptly returned by the fort 
on the crest of Ladder Hill. At 1.45 p.m. Admiral Phelps, 
Captain Weaver, and the personal staff left the ship and made an 
official visit to the governor. A guard of honor from the garri- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 277 

son received them upon landing, and the fort fired a salute of 
thirteen guns, which we returned gun for gun. At 3.15 his ex- 
cellency the governor, Colonel Grant Blunt, Royal Engineers, 
returned the admiral's visit, and upon his departure we fired a 
salute of seventeen guns, all the other usual naval honors being 
complied with. 

The anchorage off Jamestown is simply an open roadstead on 
the lee side of the island, but balmy breezes prevail almost con- 
stantly, and the " oldest inhabitant" cannot remember any but a 
southeast wind. The shipping in the harbor at the time of our 
arrival consisted of half a dozen whalers, five of which flew the 
stars and stripes, and gracefully dipped to us as we came in. 

Jamestown is prettily situated in a valley which opens out on 
the lee side of the island. The surf rolls in to the beach con- 
stantly, so that the only landing for boats is on the left, just under 
the guns of Munden's Battery. A road, which is hewn out of the 
rocks, then leads around to the sea-wall and the castellated ram- 
parts, in the centre of which a bridge over the moat gives access 
to the town gate. A large square opens out, after entering the 
gate, with a number of public buildings on the left, — " The Castle," 
the official residence of the governor, the colonial secretary's office, 
post-office, and public gardens. The latter is a piece of ground 
of about one acre, which is planted with trees and kept as the 
favorite resort of the citizens ; the garrison band used to give 
bi-weekly concerts in this garden, but since the great reduction in 
the strength of the garrison the band has been withdrawn. The 
" Brooklyn's" band gave two promenade concerts during our 
stay in port, and added a great deal to the pleasure the people 
derived from our visit. A small monument here commemo- 
rates the officers and men of the British navy who died while 
engaged in the suppression of the slave-trade. The ruin of Mr. 
Porteus's house adjoins the garden, and is interesting because of 
a coincidence that the Duke of Wellington as Sir Arthur Wellesley, 
on returning from India, slept for one night in the same apart- 



278 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Hient which was subsequently used by Napoleon when he landed 
as an exile. On the opposite side of the square there are the 
custom-house, several buildings used by the military, and the 
landing of the ladder, which leads to the top of Ladder Hill. 
This ladder forms one of the most conspicuous features of the 
town. It was built in 1830, and was formerly equipped with a 
rope tramway, the car of which came to grief by the rope's part- 
ing, since which it has been disused. The famous ladder is nine 
hundred and thirty-three feet long, and reaches a vertical height 
of six hundred and two feet, with seven hundred steps, each of 
which has a vertical rise of 10.32 inches. The average slope is 
thirty-nine degrees, but as it follows the curvature of the hill, the 
steepest angle is forty-four degrees. 

The parish church, with square tower supporting a pointed spire, 
is almost directly in front of the town gate. A wide street then 
leads up through the town, with a number of substantial build- 
ings on both sides ; the hotel, St. Helena Club, and officers' mess- 
room on the right, with some residences and the handsome store- 
houses of Solomon, Moss, Gideon & Co. on the left. Two streets 
branch off from this, one leading to the famous side-path, the 
direct road to Longwood, and the other to the right, forms the 
principal thoroughfare up the valley, with the main barracks, 
shops, and residences lining both sides. There are about two hun- 
dred houses in the town, many of which are gradually succumbing 
to the ravages of the white ant, a pest introduced some years ago 
by the shipping. 

The people of St. Helena extended the most cordial hospitality. 
The St. Helena Club immediately sent off invitations extending 
the privileges of the club to the admiral, captain, and officers, 
while His Excellency Colonel Blunt and the officers of the garri- 
son hoped we would consider ourselves honorary members of the 
garrison mess during our stay in port. Wednesday, May 1, Mrs. 
Solomon and Miss Moss, the leaders of St. Helena society, gave 
a very elegant entertainment to Admiral Phelps, Captain Weaver, 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 279 

and the officers of the " Brooklyn" at the mess-house in James- 
town. Great preparations were made for this entertainment. 
The house was tastefully decorated with flags, evergreens, and 
flowers ; and every detail for the comfort of the guests was amply 
provided for. The guests were received in the rooms of the first 
floor, from which they went to the ball-room on the second floor, 
where Mrs. Solomon and Miss Moss received. The " Brooklyn's" 
band occupied the balcony leading from the ball-room, and their 
largest audience, it is unnecessary to state, was congregated in the 
street in front. We were most agreeably surprised this evening 
at each detail of this ball. We would not have believed it was 
possible to get up such a complete affair on the island. It also 
appeared that the young ladies know the American glide waltz, 
and dancing men were delighted. 

The entertainment commenced upon the arrival of his excellency 
the governor, when the band struck up the English national hymn 
as customary, after which a regular programme of dances was 
strictly followed. There were about one hundred persons in all, 
including the officers of the " Brooklyn" and the garrison, whose 
brilliant uniforms contrasted admirably with the elegant toilets of 
the ladies. The refreshments were of the most substantial char- 
acter, and the greatest consideration was manifested in every detail. 
During the entire evening tea and coffee, punch, wines, etc., were 
served in a buffet on the third floor, in a room adjoining which the 
band was kept supplied with beer. At midnight a march indi- 
cated that the time for supper had arrived, and the guests walked 
to a large room in the other wing of the mess-house, where tables 
were set and every one was served as if at a regular hotel. A supper 
at a ball is often a picnic, where one gets what he can, but this 
evening the most fastidious must have been gratified with the 
quality of the delicious viands and the manner in which they were 
served. After supper dancing was resumed and kept up until 
morning, when the guests departed, with thanks to the hostesses 
for the delightful entertainment. 



280 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The governor also invited Admiral Phelps, Captain Weaver, 
and the staff to luncheon at " Plantation." The officers of the gar- 
rison vied with the citizens in giving expression to their friendly 
consideration for Americans, and arranged an elegant dinner-party 
at the officers' quarters on Ladder Hill for the " Brooklyn." This 
took place on Friday, and was followed by customary toasts to 
the Queen and President. 

These acts of courtesy were duly reciprocated by the " Brook- 
lyn," and Admiral Phelps, Captain Weaver, and the officers gave 
a reception on board from two to five p.m. on Saturday, May 3. 
The ship being in the usual trim condition did not need much 
decoration, but a few flags were tastefully arrayed ; while Eng- 
lish and American flags were prominently combined as express- 
ive of our cordial friendship. Colonel Blunt, who was acting 
governor since the death of Governor Janish, two months before, 
came simply as an officer of the Royal Engineers, and at his re- 
quest the parade and ceremony of official reception were dispensed 
with. All the prominent people of St. Helena were invited. The 
band played nicely, and it was a very pleasant affair. A light col- 
lation was spread in the wardroom, and the guests left about 
sunset, evidently highly gratified by their visit. 

Our chaplain was requested to hold services in the different 
churches, and the St. Helena Guardian spoke very highly of his 
sermons. Father P. Hayes, officiating chaplain to the Roman 
Catholic troops, held divine service on board the " Brooklyn" one 
Sunday, and preached a very impressive sermon upon " Prayer," 
which was especially edifying. High mass was celebrated after 
the sermon, and the Catholics in the ship's company were very 
thankful for this privilege. There was no Roman Catholic church 
at this time in St. Helena, and Father Hayes was anxious to get 
one built. A subscription was started to assist in this charitable 
object, and the sum of about one hundred and twenty-five dollars 
was generously given by this ship's company. 

St. Helena has been declining of late years. The inhabitants 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 281 

have not lacked enterprise, but causes for which they are not re- 
sponsible have operated against them. Measures were on foot for 
the cultivation of trees, and immediate relief was expected from 
the late repeal of all tonnage dues. The charge of a penny a ton 
on all vessels calling at Jamestown for supplies was repealed on 
March 1, 1882. No charge will be made in the future, and St. 
Helena is a free port of call. Postal commnnication is by Cape 
mail steamers, which stop en route to England about twice monthly, 
and from England on an average of once every four weeks. The 
mail occupies fifteen days to London, five days to Cape Town. 

ST. HELENA .« 

St. Helena lies in latitude 15° 55' south and longitude 5° 42' 
west. It is eleven hundred and forty miles from the African coast, 
eighteen hundred miles from the South American coast, and seven 
hundred miles from the island of Ascension, the nearest land. 
The island is a rock of volcanic origin in mid-ocean. Its area is 
about forty -five square miles, its extreme length ten and one-quar- 
ter miles and greatest breadth eight and one-quarter miles ; while 
the length of the irregular coast-line, measuring chords of one 
mile each between the points, is about twenty-nine miles. The 
island rises abruptly and almost vertically from the sea, to a very 
considerable height, in a series of dark-brown rocky precipices, 
with deep ravines and valleys on all sides. The highest point is 
Diana's Peak, two thousand seven hundred and four feet above 
the sea, the top of which affords a magnificent panorama of the 
entire island. The high barren cliffs and deep chasms that sepa- 
rate them give a forbidding repulsive appearance, which, coupled 
with reminiscences of Napoleon's exile and death, produce an op- 

* Compiled from pamphlets, notes, etc., entitled " St. Helena," by a Bird 
of Passage, " A Few Notes on St. Helena," by Benjamin Grant, scraps from 
the St. Helena records, the "St. Helena Almanac," "A Report on the Present 
Position and Prospects of the Agricultural Resources of St. Helena," by D. 
Morris, and personal observations of the author. 



282 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

pressive feeling upon the spectator, like the desolation attached to 
a graveyard in the thought of dead hopes and " what might have 
been." The entire surface of the island is hilly and precipitous, 
the only comparatively level portions being in the vicinity of Long- 
wood and a small area at " Plantation," the governor's residence. 
Of the entire area of twenty-eight thousand eight hundred acres, 
twenty thousand acres are rocky, barren wastes, totally unfit for 
agriculture, eight thousand acres are for pasture and hay, four 
hundred acres under forest, both of indigenous and introduced 
trees, and the remainder under cultivation for raising crops and 
contributing to the food-supply of the inhabitants. 

The present population, excluding the garrison and shipping, is 
about four thousand five hundred, of whom two thousand four 
hundred and thirty-five live in Jamestown. Only seventy men 
are employed as farmers. During the last ten years large num- 
bers of laborers have emigrated to the Cape and Natal, and evi- 
dences of decline are visible on all sides, chiefly attributed to the 
completion of the Suez Canal, when the Cape route was practi- 
cally abandoned by the largest and best ships to India and the 
East. Formerly thousands of vessels used to call annually, and 
remained a considerable time refitting, etc., by which large sums 
of money were circulated ; but now large steamers are substituted 
for those sailing-vessels, and as they carry supplies of fresh meat 
and vegetables preserved by refrigerating processes, those that still 
call seldom require anything. 

The island being situated within the belt of the southeast trade- 
winds, enjoys a remarkably pleasant and equable climate, except 
during the winter months, from May to September, when the 
trades are very fresh, and it blows hard for days and weeks and 
the air is heavily loaded with moisture. The temperature varies 
from fifty-two to seventy-seven degrees, these being the extremes, 
while the average variation is but seven degrees, the average in 
February being sixty-five and in August fifty-eight. These ob- 
servations were made at Longwood, seventeen hundred and eighty 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 283 

feet above the sea, and the temperature in Jamestown is about 
ten degrees higher. Neither of the extremes are oppressive, but 
when one has lived much in the tropics it is felt to be decidedly 
chilly with the thermometer at fifty- two ; and sometimes when 
the trades are light an eddy sweeps up into James Valley, which, 
for a few hours, produces an oppressively hot vitiated atmosphere. 

The island was discovered by Juan de Nova Castella, com- 
mander of a Portuguese fleet returning from India, on the 21st 
of May, 1501, the anniversary of Saint Helena, mother of the 
Emperor Constantine. In 1513 a disgraced Portuguese nobleman 
landed on the island, and with a few negro slaves formed the first 
settlement. The Portuguese abandoned it some years later, and 
in 1645 it was colonized by the Dutch, who deserted it in 1651, 
and, in the same year, the English East India Company perma- 
nently settled it. In 1655 they built Fort James on the site of 
" The Castle," from which James Valley and Jamestown received 
their names. 

The Dutch then regretted having abandoned St. Helena, and in 
1672 sent a force to retake it. Their first attack at Lemon's 
Valley was repulsed by quantities of stone rolled down upon them 
from the mountains on each side of the ravine, but they subse- 
quently effected a landing at Bennett's Point on the western shore 
and gained the heights of the interior, and thence marched to 
Ladder Hill, which rendered further resistance useless and oblieed 
the English to evacuate. The latter sailed for Brazil, whence 
they fell in with three English cruisers, " Assistance," " Levant." 
and " Castle," with which they returned to St. Helena in May, 
1673. A force of two hundred men was landed at Prosperous 
Bay, on the windward side of the island, just below Longwood. 
G-uided by a slave named Black Oliver, one of the men managed 
to climb up the side of the precipitous rocks and sent down a 
hauling line for a rope, by means of which the entire command 
gained the summit. The tradition is that the bold sailor who 
climbed the hill was encouraged by the men below, who shouted 



284 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

" Hold fast, Tom !" and the place has ever since been called 
" Holdfast Tom." The party then proceeded towards Jamestown, 
while Sir Richard Munden, in command of the squadron, appeared 
in front of the town and compelled the Dutch governor to surren- 
der. The British East India Company then received a second 
grant of the island, and retained it until April, 1834, when it 
was transferred to the British government, though during the five 
years of Napoleon's captivity on the island the government was 
administered by an officer appointed by the British crown. 

All the interest attached to the island centres in the fact of its 
having been the place where Napoleon passed the last days of his 
most remarkable life. The incidents mentioned in the records are 
merely trivial anecdotes connected with the local government, the 
growth of the colony, the construction of churches, forts, and 
other buildings, with notices of slight shocks of earthquake in 
1756, 1782, 1817, and 1864. 

Volumes have been written respecting the treatment of Napo- 
leon from July, 1815, when, on board the " Bellerophon," he re- 
ceived the first intimation that the allies intended to send him to 
St. Helena, until his remains were received on board the French 
frigate " Belle Poule" on the 15th of October, 1840, but it will 
be interesting to review some of those events, especially the tradi- 
tions of the old inhabitants, not generally known. 

After the battle of Waterloo the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte 
returned to Paris, abdicated the imperial throne, and proceeded to 
Rochefort, where he voluntarily went on board the " Bellerophon" 
and surrendered to the English. The allies then decided to send 
him to St. Helena, where he arrived in the " Northumberland" 
on the 15th of October, 1815. He landed at Jamestown the 
next day, and was accompanied by General and Madame Ber- 
trand and three children, General and Madame Montholon and 
two children, Count Las Cases and his son, General Gourgaud, 
Captain Protowskoi, and Dr. O'Meara. He also had eleven male 
servants holding various appointments in the household, first and 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 285 

second valets de chambre, first and second stewards, etc., and one 
female cook, an English gardener, twelve soldiers as servants, and 
the servants of the generals, so that in all the establishment num- 
bered fifty-five persons. 

Napoleon proceeded to a house adjoining the public gardens on 
the left of the main street in Jamestown, where he passed the 
first night, and early the next morning rode out to Longwood to 
see the place which had been selected for his residence. Long- 
wood is situated in the central zone, about five miles by road from 
Jamestown. It overlooks the sea at Prosperous Bay, and is in an 
unsheltered position on the windward side of the island. The 
house was built in 1743 under Governor Dunbar, and intended 
for a barn. It was subsequently converted into a residence for 
the lieutenant-governor, and was vacated by him for the illustrious 
exile. The small bleak cottage needed considerable repairs before 
it could be made a suitable residence, and when Napoleon rode 
back he expressed a wish to stop at " The Briers" and avoid the 
annoyance of the crowd of people who awaited his return to town. 
The request was granted, and the proprietor, Mr. Balcombe, ar- 
ranged a pavilion attached to the estate for his accommodation. 
This pavilion was too small to accommodate any more of his staff 
than Count Las Cases and his son, who occupied one of two 
rooms in a little attic over the only room on the ground-floor. 
Napoleon occupied a camp-bed, and was obliged to submit to many 
discomforts. A tent was rigged in front of the pavilion, to which 
his bed was removed shortly afterwards. 

Mr. Balcombe and his family showed their illustrious guest 
every attention, and as his two daughters were well educated 
and spoke French fluently, Napoleon became much attached to 
the family, and often amused himself in the boyish games of Mr. 
Balcombe's sons. One of the daughters, Miss Betsy, published 
" Recollections of the Emperor Napoleon," which contains many 
anecdotes of that period. Miss Betsy was a very lively young 
lady, and, on one occasion, while fencing with Napoleon, succeeded 

19 



286 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

in pinning him with a sword in one corner of the room. The 
world's conqueror conquered by a woman. 

In the course of a few weeks Admiral Cockburn had, by em- 
ploying carpenters and men from the ship, completed the repairs 
at Longwood, to which Napoleon removed on the 9th of Decem- 
ber. Longwood was distasteful to Napoleon from the first. The 
reflection that he was to pass the rest of his life there, and that 
every precaution short of force, and by force, if necessary, would 
be taken to keep him there, that every movement would be 
watched by sentries, and that escape would be impossible, would 
have marred the beauties of the most luxurious palace in the 
world ; but, added to the forbidding aspect of the barren ridges, 
heavy, chilly rain-storms frequently prevailed, which had a most 
depressing influence, so that no wonder the small, inconvenient 
house of Longwood was so much disliked by the illustrious pris- 
oner, who, a short time before, had given away kingdoms to his 
brothers and favorite generals. The house at Longwood was a 
low, rambling, wainscoted building, its plan being in shape like 
the letter T. The main entrance (at the foot of the T) led into 
an anteroom, which had three windows on the west or lee side. 
This room opened into the saloon, back of which were the rooms 
of the main building, with dining-room and library on the left, 
and two bedrooms (one being an office) on the right. A bath- 
room adjoined back of end bedroom, then a small waiting-room, a 
passage, and the kitchen. A billiard-room adjoined back of these 
rooms. Napoleon occupied six rooms, — saloon, dining-room, office, 
library, bedroom, and bath-room. The attic, access to which was 
gained by small stairs in rear of dining-room, and other rooms in 
this and adjoining buildings, were occupied by his suite; but some 
of the latter had to occupy tents, and the Count and Countess 
Bertrand were lodged in a small house at Hutt's Gate, about a 
mile from Longwood. 

Specific charges were made against Admiral Cockburn as soon 
as the arrangements for the security and comfort of Napoleon and 




it? 3 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 287 

his household were completed, in which Napoleon protested against 
the manner in which this arduous duty was performed. These 
charges were refuted by the admiral, and all complaints against 
the quality and quantity of articles supplied for the household 
were promptly attended to. Napoleon must have seen the neces- 
sity for the measures taken for his security, and tacitly acquiesced, 
although he openly protested against them. 

On the 14th of April, 1816, Sir Hudson Lowe arrived, and re- 
lieved Colonel Wilks as governor of the island. One of his first 
acts was to send word to Napoleon that he would call at Long- 
wood on the 16th to pay his respects. Sir Hudson arrived at 
Longwood with Admiral Cockburn and staff about nine o'clock in 
the morning, an hour when the governor must have known that 
Napoleon was not in the habit of receiving any one. He was 
told that the emperor was indisposed and could not see him, but 
appointed the next day between one and five p.m. for an interview. 
The governor then returned and made his visit, accompanied as 
before, at four o'clock the next day. On the governor being called 
for by the attending officer, Sir Hudson Lowe rather abruptly en- 
tered the apartment, where Napoleon stood to receive him, while 
the admiral, who was to present him, did not reach the door until 
after it was closed by the attendant, and was then refused admit- 
tance. This, though trivial under other circumstances, should not 
have occurred, and gave rise to correspondence and official inter- 
views for some time. Authorities differ as to Napoleon's view of 
the insult to the admiral. Las Cases says that Napoleon was de- 
lighted with the attendant's promptitude in shutting the door in 
face of the admiral ; while Count Montholon states that Napoleon 
was vexed at the oversight, and requested his regrets for the cir- 
cumstance to be communicated to Admiral Cockburn. The in- 
terview was unsatisfactory to both parties, and left a disagreeable 
impression. Napoleon could not divest himself of the idea of his 
having been an emperor, and such an emperor, while the governor 
felt as a military man to whom, as such, the safe custody of the 



r 



288 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

illustrious exile was committed, and that everything depended 
upon his fidelity to the trust. 

A few days afterwards a document was received from the gov- 
ernor, which, in accordance with instructions from England, re- 
quired all the members of Napoleon Bonaparte's suite and domes- 
tic establishment who wished to remain at St. Helena to sign a 
declaration that they were willing to be placed under the same 
restrictions which it might be considered necessary to adopt towards 
Napoleon Bonaparte personally. Napoleon was very much vexed at 
being designated as Napoleon Bonaparte, which in this document 
appeared studiedly a second time. Tbe officers were annoyed by its 
tenor, which implied a doubt on their devotion to Napoleon ; and 
they and the servants signed a paper in which they declared their 
intention of continuing " in the service of His Majesty the Emperor 
Napoleon, however frightful remaining in St. Helena might be, 
and of submitting to whatever unjust and arbitrary restrictions 
had been placed over His Majesty and the persons in his service." 

Shortly after this the British officer who had orders to person- 
ally see Napoleon twice daily, reported that he had not been able 
to do so on the day before. The governor then visited Longwood, 
and was admitted. He found that Napoleon had been ill the day 
before and was still suffering. Napoleon complained of the treat- 
ment he was receiving ; was dissatisfied with the orders and regu- 
lations of the governor respecting his being always accompanied 
by an officer, and objected to the limited space allowed him for 
exercise. His manner was not so abrupt on this occasion, but 
some unpleasant correspondence took place after the interview, 
and the following orders were issued : 

1. That General Bonaparte should indicate twice daily, to the 
officer appointed for the purpose, his actual presence at the house 
either by personal interview or other certain means. 

2. All communication between Napoleon's household and the 
inhabitants of Jamestown was prohibited, except through a person 
appointed by the governor. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 289 

3. That no person should have an interview with Napoleon 
without the governor's permission. 

A proclamation was issued warning the people against convey- 
ing any letters to or from members of Napoleon's household, as 
all correspondence must pass through the governor's hands. 

About this time the wife of the governor-general of India 
stopped at St. Helena, and, in order to gratify her wish to see the 
wonderful exile, the governor invited Napoleon to dinner at " The 
Plantation," to which invitation Napoleon gave no reply. The 
breach continued to widen between the governor and Napoleon, 
and no improvement took place in their position towards each 
other. Napoleon was permitted to walk or ride alone or with his 
staff within an area of about twelve miles in circumference, com- 
prising the Longwood and Deadwood estates ; but beyond this 
limit he was always to be followed by an officer, who was ordered 
never to lose sight of him for a single instant. The Fifty-third 
Regiment was encamped on the plain at Deadwood, sentries were 
posted all around, and signal stations established all over the 
island, so that every movement was constantly observed and re- 
ported to the governor. At night the sentries were drawn in so 
close that no person could pass between them without being seen, 
and Napoleon was never allowed to leave the house after nine 
P.M. without being accompanied by a field-officer. Batteries and 
forts were built all round the coast, two cruising-vessels of the 
English navy cruised around the island, starting from Jamestown, 
every night in opposite directions. A line-of-battle ship lay off 
Jamestown, with the fastest frigate in the British navy to take 
Napoleon off in case of an attack by a fleet, and every precaution 
was taken to render escape impossible. 

The expense of Napoleon's household was at first estimated at 
eight thousand pounds a year, but this was found insufficient and 
increased to twelve thousand pounds, and even then Napoleon had 
some of his silver plate broken up and sold, with some display, in 
order to meet their expenses. 



290 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

It had been decided to build a more suitable residence, and the 
necessary framework, prepared in England, arrived in May, 1816. 
The governor called on Napoleon to ascertain his wishes about the 
building, but the interview was so unpleasant that he left without 
having obtained the information ; and also without having been 
able to present an English major-general, whom he had taken 
with him for that purpose. This was the last interview with the 
governor. The house was erected, and was fairly suited for the 
requirements of a large family accustomed to the luxuries and re- 
finements of fortune and rank ; but Napoleon never occupied it. 
He preferred to be considered a martyr, and did not wish any 
mercy from his enemies. An expensive iron railing was erected 
around the garden, which was especially disagreeable, and its 
removal was ordered, but postponed during Napoleon's last illness. 

Napoleon did not pass his time in idleness, even when depen- 
dent on himself for employment. He usually retired to rest at 
ten or half-past, and arose, on finding himself refreshed with 
sleep, without regard to the hour. An hour or so would be 
passed in dictating portions of his former career to General Mon- 
tholon or some other attendant general. If the weather per- 
mitted, he would walk outside the house for a short time. At 
ten he breakfasted, either alone or with some one or more of his 
suite. In the afternoon he read or dictated and often went out 
riding, his favorite resort being at a spring at the head of the 
valley, below the western edge of the Longwood plateau. Here 
he used to sit and read under a willow-tree, and on one occasion 
is said to have fallen asleep there and to have dreamt that 
Josephine was lying in front of him at that very spot ; so that on 
awakening he requested that after his death, if they should de- 
cide to bury him on the island, he wanted to be buried in that 
spot until his remains could be taken to France. His daily rou- 
tine of life was subject to but little variation, and at eight p.m. 
he usually dined with such members of his suite as had been 
notified to attend. Games of chess or whist followed, then read- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 291 

ing aloud and general conversation until bedtime. The little 
household observed all the etiquette of an imperial court. Napo- 
leon was exceedingly particular in all the minutiae of the toilet, 
and was himself scrupulously clean and particular. In the morn- 
ing he wore a light-colored dressing-gown and loose trousers, after 
breakfast a green uniform coat, with the ribbon and cross of the 
Legion of Honor, white breeches, silk stockings, and light thin 
shoes, and his odd cocked hat across the head. 

December 30, 1816, Count Las Cases and his son were de- 
ported from Longwood and sent to the Cape, for having tried to 
send letters to Europe by private conveyance. This attempt was 
made by a letter in cipher on a piece of white satin which was 
sewed in the waistcoat of a servant-boy named Scott. The boy 
got frightened at his dangerous undertaking and told his father, 
who managed to save his son's life by taking him to the gov- 
ernor and revealing the circumstance. Scott was then sent to As- 
cension. Napoleon must have felt the departure of Las Cases 
keenly, but he did not protest against it as much as was expected. 

Napoleon's health began to decline in November, 1817, and his 
gloomy disposition did not encourage his physician in his efforts 
to cure him. Dr. O'Meara was detailed from the " Northumber- 
land" to attend Napoleon when he first landed, and he became 
very much attached to his patient. In July, 1818, Dr. O'Meara 
most unexpectedly received orders, in accordance with instructions 
from England, that his duties as physician to Napoleon should 
cease immediately, and that he should leave Longwood without 
holding any communication with its inmates. The doctor hesi- 
tated to comply, but opposition was useless, and, after packing his 
effects, he had an interview with Napoleon and left. It is said 
that the doctor had been detected in forwarding correspondence ; 
at all events, he was sent to England and dismissed from the Eng- 
lish navy. Dr. O'Meara published an account of Napoleon's 
exile in " A Voice from St. Helena," in which he justifies his last 
visit to Napoleon as being absolutely necessary for him to pre- 



292 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

scribe for his patient. Dr. Verling, a surgeon of the artillery, 
was appointed to attend Napoleon, but the latter declined to see 
him, and though he remained an inmate at Longwood for over a 
year, he never was admitted to an interview with the emperor. 

Among other annoyances, Napoleon's little court began to quar- 
rel, and old issues were revived between the Generals Bertrand, 
Montholon, and Gourgaud. The families of the two first named 
rarely spoke, and General Gourgaud's dispute almost resulted in 
a duel with Montholon. In 1818, Gourgaud's position became 
such that he felt obliged to leave St. Helena. Countess Mon- 
tholon also left St. Helena in July, 1819, on account of ill health, 
and her departure affected Napoleon a great deal, because he was 
much attached to her. 

In January, 1819, Napoleon had a serious attack of vertigo, 
and Dr. Stokoe, surgeon of the ship " Conqueror," then at anchor 
in the roads, was called in, and an application was made that Dr. 
Stokoe should be appointed permanently, but the admiral would 
not consent. In September, 1819, a vessel arrived with two 
priests, appointed by the Pope, and Professor Antommarchi, 
selected for Napoleon's medical adviser by his uncle, Cardinal 
Fesch ; some other persons destined for subordinate positions in 
the household arrived at the same time. 

Shortly after this a great change came over Napoleon's habits. 
He began to amuse himself by working in the garden. Here he 
worked with his own hands, making flower-beds in one part, veg- 
etable garden in another, and embankments. He, however, soon 
wearied of mere gardening : the little garden mounds changed their 
character and reflected the ruling passion of the exile, in models 
of parapets and breastworks, by means of which he explained the 
theories of attack and defence, — one day he would design and 
construct a means of defence which should puzzle an invading 
force most decidedly, and the next he would show how to demolish 
the works in a very few minutes. He also constructed a fish- 
pond and irrigating works, and took great delight in the encroach- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 293 

ments of cattle upon his vegetable garden. Napoleon was gener- 
ally pleased to receive visitors, and a great many captains of 
vessels, passengers, etc., who stopped at St. Helena, were granted 
permission by the governor to call and pay their respects to the 
illustrious exile. Notwithstanding the great precautions to pre- 
vent his escape, a number of plots are said to have been formed, 
and one or more are said to have been almost successful. The 
captain of an American whaler is said to have organized a plot 
which almost succeeded. He managed to have a boat in readiness 
at Prosperous Bay, but by some strange fatuity the sentries were 
doubled at the house that night, and the boat had barely time to 
get back to the whaler before the cruiser came around and gave 
chase. There was a Chinaman employed at Longwood, who used 
to carry some provisions from Jamestown, and who resembled 
Napoleon in features, stature, and walk to such a remarkable 
extent that the governor had him sent off the island, for fear 
that he might exchange clothes and personate Napoleon until he 
should have effected his escape. 

In April, 1821, Napoleon's disease assumed alarming symp- 
toms. Dr. Arnott was called in to consult with Professor Antom- 
marchi, but the illustrious invalid never rallied, and, after a severe 
struggle, died on the 5th of May, 1821. A gale of wind set in on 
the day before, which was very violent on the 5th ; many trees 
were blown down, — a most unusual occurrence in St. Helena, — 
and it is probable the dying man's last moments were influenced 
by the noise of the storm, which suggested to his fading mind the 
strife of battle : his last words were " Tete d'armee." A post-mor- 
tem examination on the 6th revealed the cause of death to have 
been from an ulcerated stomach. Napoleon was born on August 
15, 1769, and was fifty-one years eight months and twenty days 
of age when he died. His remains were laid in state and viewed 
by all the inhabitants of Jamestown, both white and black, the latter 
holding him in special reverence, chiefly because he had brought 
about the abolition of slavery on the island of St. Helena. A 



294 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

plaster of Paris cast of his face was taken, and on the 8th his 
remains were buried at the head of the valley, which had been his 
favorite resort. The funeral was conducted with all possible cere- 
mony and military honor, and his coffin was deposited in a vault 
secured by large blocks of stone, cramped and joined together by 
bars of iron run with lead. 

Napoleon's will was opened on the 12th of May, in which he 
bequeathed legacies to the amount of six millions of francs to his 
officers and favorite servants and attendants ; and left directions 
for the disposal of his private domains, which he estimated at two 
hundred million francs. He also requested in his will that his 
remains might ultimately be deposited on the banks of the Seine, 
in the midst of his beloved French people. 

Among the curious incidents related by an old inhabitant, from 
whose account in verse a number of interesting anecdotes have 
been copied in this article, it is said that when Napoleon was 
buried the ship " "Waterloo" and bark " La Belle Alliance" were 
both at anchor at Jamestown, and that some of the sailors who 
assisted at the burial wore the ribbons with the name of their ship, 
" Waterloo," on their caps. 

On May 27, 1821, the Count and Countess Bertrand, Count 
Montholon, Professor Antommarchi, the priests, and all the per- 
sons connected with the late household, left St. Helena in the 
store-ship " Camel," and the exile of Napoleon became an event of 
the past. 

During the exile the Longwood estate and other properties were, 
for the time being, leased by the British government ; but at the 
departure of Sir Hudson Lowe in July, 1821, the East India Com- 
pany resumed control of the island. The Longwood estate then 
reverted to its original purpose as a country farm, and the house 
was used as a barn and stable by the company, which use accorded 
with their ideas of " business" much better than the finer feel- 
ings of human culture, which would reverence the abiding-place 
of one of the world's greatest heroes. In 1834 the island again 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 295 

came into possession of the British government as a colony of 
England. 

In 1840 the French government applied to Great Britain to 
sanction the removal of Napoleon's remains to the " Hotel des In- 
valides" in Paris, and every preparation was made for conducting 
the proceedings in a becoming manner. 

On the 8th of October the French frigate " Belle Poule," com- 
manded by the Prince de Joinville, third son of the King of the 
French, and corvette " Favorite," arrived at St. Helena to take the 
body to France. A number of other vessels of both the French and 
English navies had arrived previously. The distinguished French 
officials were received with royal honors by the military and naval 
forces of St. Helena. Preparations were then made for the re- 
moval of the remains, and at one o'clock on the morning of 
October 15, 1840, the day on which twenty-five years before Na- 
poleon had arrived at St. Helena, the work of disinterment was 
commenced. The work was attended with considerable difficulty, 
owing to the manner in which the tomb was sealed, but at nine 
A.M. the coffin was raised and removed to a tent, where the remains 
were identified by Generals Bertrand and Gourgaud, Baron Las 
Cases, and others who had shared Napoleon's exile, and the body 
was found to have changed but little since it had been buried twenty 
years before. 

The funeral ceremonies were very imposing, and every mark of 
respect was paid by the inhabitants and local authorities. The 
French had made elaborate preparations and brought a magnifi- 
cent sarcophagus made of ebony, with the word " Napoleon" in gilt 
letters, to contain the metallic casket with the remains. Minute- 
guns were fired by the forts and men-of-war during the entire 
funeral, and the ceremony of high mass was impressively performed 
by the Abbe Coquereau, when the casket was deposited in a little 
chapel which was built on the gun-deck of the frigate " Belle 
Poule." This chapel was upholstered with solemn gorgeousness, 
the sides and ceiling being lined with black velvet, studded with 



296 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

silver stars, and illuminated with elegant candelabra. Thus every 
possible honor was rendered to the remains of the late illustrious 
exiled emperor by the representatives of both governments. Oc- 
tober 18 the " Belle Poule" and " Favorite" sailed for France. 

When the Prince de Joinville and the French officers visited 
Longwood they found the house in a most dilapidated condition. 
The rooms in which Napoleon had passed about five years of his 
life were sheds for farming implements, and the apartment in 
which he died was a mill for threshing or winnowing grain ; while 
cattle-sheds and piggeries made up the remainder of the farming 
establishment into which Longwood had been converted. 

Longwood has always been of the greatest interest to all who 
have stopped at St. Helena, and in its dilapidated condition it has 
been visited and worshipped as a holy shrine would be by numbers 
of French and other visitors. The walls were almost covered by 
the names and initials of hundreds of visitors, some of whom re- 
corded their opinion of the disgraceful condition of the premises. 

In 1858 negotiations were entered into between the French and 
English governments, which resulted in the cession of the spot on 
which the tomb is situated and the house of Longwood, with a 
small portion of ground attached thereto, which became enrolled 
among the private domains of Napoleon III. The French legis- 
lature took charge of the renovation and restoration of the old 
house at Longwood to its former state, — the new house not being- 
included in the transfer of the property. Measures were also 
taken for the proper preservation of the tomb. The repairs and 
renovations were executed in the most faithful manner. Every- 
thing was done in order to make the outward appearance of the 
house conform to the state in which it was when Napoleon occu- 
pied it. Patterns of the wall-paper had been preserved and were 
duplicated in France ; but the bedrooms had been covered with 
yellow nankin to absorb the dampness, and these walls had to be 
covered with yellow paper to be as near like the nankin as could 
be imitated. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 297 

Ever since then an officer of the French government has been 
detailed to reside at St. Helena as " Guardian of the Tomb," the 
present incumbent being Mr. L. D. C. Morilleau, " Gardien des 
Domaines de Longwood et du Val Napoleon — St. Helena." He 
resides in the Longwood " New House," and he and his family 
are exceedingly courteous to all visitors to Longwood. The prop- 
erty belongs to the heirs of Louis Napoleon, and was visited in 
July, 1880, by his widow, the Empress Eugenie, on her return 
from a visit to the spot where her son was killed in Zululand, 
South Africa. 

A VISIT TO LONGWOOD. 

During the " Brooklyn's" stay in port every officer had an 
opportunity of visiting Longwood ; some on foot, some on horseback, 
and others in carriages, which were hired at reasonable rates in 
Jamestown. No better idea of the present condition of St. 
Helena can be given than by a description of one of these trips, 
which was made with Captain Weaver to visit the former residence 
and tomb of Napoleon. We obtained a carriage without difficulty, 
and then rode up the main street to where two streets branch off, 
one of which leads to the direct road to Longwood, while the 
other, to the right, is more properly the continuation of the town 
up the valley. We chose the latter, and our horse was led up the 
zigzag road on the precipitous side of Ladder Hill. One never 
drives in Jamestown, but a boy always leads the horse, except in 
case of a double team, when a postilion rides the nigh horse and 
guides the other by bridle. English roads are generally excellent, 
but the zigzags on all the hill-sides of St. Helena called forth de- 
cided admiration. The outer edges are protected by stone walls 
four feet high, which at a distance look like lines of intrench- 
ments. 

After a series of windings we reached the top of Ladder Hill, 
where the road leads by the Ladder Hill fort, now used as the 
main barracks, with the officers' quarters in the observatory build- 
ing above on the left. The ride up the steep hill back of the 



298 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

fort was monotonous, except for the constantly increasing range of 
vision, behind us to seaward, as the summit was approached. The 
ground is composed of volcanic ashes and lava, upon which 
nothing but a hardy species of cactus will grow. The High 
Knoll, then being converted into a citadel, occupies the extreme 
summit of the hill, after which our road took us to the right and 
into the vicinity of " The Plantation." A limited woodland here 
afforded refreshing shade, and cultivated gardens gave a striking 
contrast to the dreary waste land through which we had just 
passed. "The Plantation House" is beautifully situated and ad- 
mirably adapted for the residence of the governor, for which it 
was originally built by the East India Company, and is sufficiently 
described as a comfortable country residence. 

Our road then led out to the crest of the hill, from which 
there were magnificent views of fertile valleys between and among 
the ravines. The waterfall at the head of the valley was picturesque, 
and added to the pleasing variety of the ever-changing scenery. 
Here and there a pheasant broke cover and flew over our heads 
and inspired a wish for a gun, and the regret that the kind invi- 
tation to join a hunting-party (game laws being strictly enforced) 
with some of St. Helena's hospitable people had been declined. 
We next found ourselves on the Cabbage-Tree road, which was 
made shortly before Napoleon's death to extend the limits within 
which he might ride ; and at a certain point called Lover's Leap 
we obtained a magnificent view of Sandy Bay to the southeast, 
while on the other hand the valley and harbor of Jamestown were 
in plain sight to the northwest. 

Sandy Bay boasts of some remarkable natural scenery, among 
which is a peculiar pillar of basaltic rock known as " Lot," who, 
by the way, our guide informs us, " was no kin to Napoleon." 
The upper part of this valley is fertile, but beyond that, towards 
the sea, inaccessible high precipitous ridges with most fantastic 
outlines of rocks, split up into fissures and gorges, appear as a 
chaos, reminding one of a first view of the moon through a tele- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 299 

scope. Several other quaint, isolated pillars crown the summit of 
the farthest hill, known as " Lot's Wife" and " Daughters." We 
then took the road towards Longwood, and stopped at the Trav- 
eller's Rest, where old " Tim" came out and suggested refresh- 
ments. The sauce of appetite rendered the simple repast of ham 
and eggs, fresh country bread, and cheese and beer most acceptable. 
In a few minutes our carriage took us to Longwood, where we 
were met by Mr. Morilleau and his charming wife and daughters. 
We were then conducted into the barren rooms of the old house, 
each detail of which was carefully explained as already described. 
The room in which Napoleon died was the main saloon, to which 
his bed was removed in his last illness ; and the exact spot occu- 
pied by the bed is now enclosed by a small railing, in the centre 
of which there is a black pedestal surmounted by a marble bust 
of the Great Emperor. With the exception of a mirror opposite 
the bust the rooms used by the illustrious exile are all perfectly 
bare, and induce something of the feeling of a prisoner's loneli- 
ness which must have filled the exile's mind. All the surround- 
ings are kept as nearly like to what they were as possible ; but it 
seems to lack a more fitting monument. In this connection we 
remember a magnificent work of art in Corcoran's art-gallery at 
Washington by Venancio Vela, representing the last days of Na- 
poleon at St. Helena. In this the exile is represented as sitting 
in a chair, supported by pillows and wrapped in the bedclothes, 
with a map of Europe in his lap. Deep thought is expressed by 
the sculptured features, and seems concentrated upon his beloved 
France, as indicated by having his thumb on that portion of the 
map. This admirable piece of sculpture in pure white marble 
is a most eloquent memorial, and a fac-simile in Longwood Old 
House would have a most appropriate site. We saw the fish- 
pond and garden, and carefully inspected the entire house, after 
which Mr. Morilleau took us into the billiard-room, where visitors 
register their names. Our host then invited us to his residence 
in Longwood New House, which is by far the most substantial and 



300 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

commodious building on the island. The iron railing to which 
Napoleon objected still stands, though partly hidden by the 
bushes. We were entertained by Mr. Morilleau's family, and 
were shown an elegant pin presented to Mr. Morilleau by the 
Empress Eugenie with her portrait, when she visited Longwood. 
With profuse thanks for the kindness shown to us, we bade adieu 
and drove to Napoleon's Valley, where we visited the tomb. 

This spot is kept in excellent order ; large flat stone slabs cover 
the vault, which is enclosed by an iron railing. Flower-beds sur- 
round the vault, and large Norway pines cast a sombre shadow on 
the premises. The famous willow-tree is dead, and nothing but a 
portion of its decayed trunk now remains. 

Our return to town was uneventful, except to bring more forcibly 
to mind the rapid decay of the resources of the island, especially 
in the scarcity of trees. The island at one time abounded in 
forest, but most of the trees have been cut down ; their roots sup- 
ported the soil on the steep hill-sides, which is now being washed 
away and leaves barren rocks exposed to view. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

The Return to Montevideo from St. Helena — Events of the Voyage — A Visit 
to Buenos Ayres — Full Description of the City — The Park at Palermo — 
The Zoological Garden — Amusing Incident at the Races — The Street Rail- 
roads in Buenos Ayres — The Argentine Naval Academy — The " Nipsic's" 
Cruise in the South Atlantic. 

We got under way at St. Helena at daylight, Tuesday, May 6, 
and all that day were engaged in the turning evolutions for compass 
observations. Our movements must have appeared very erratic to 
the people on shore, especially the young ladies who stood on the 
beach to see us off. Some even are said to have waded out some 




" Bonaparte crossed the ocean to 
repair to his final exile, regardless 
of that beautiful sky which delighted 
Columbus, Vasco de Gama, and Camoens. 
Stretched upon the ship's stern, he per- 
ceived not that unknown constellations 
were sparkling over his head. His powerful 
'glance, for the first time, encountered their 
ihill'l' toys. What to him were stars which he had 
' never seen from his bivouacs, and which had never 
,..-... shone over his empire? Nevertheless, not one of 

them has failed to fulfil its destiny; one-half of the 
firmament spread its light over his cradle, the other half 
was reserved to illuminate his tomb." — Chateaubriand. 



NAPOLEON'S TOMB, ST. HELENA. 



Page 30U. 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 301 

distance, half expecting that when we pointed in towards the land 
it was our intention to return to port. We, however, continued 
turning, and after finishing the evolution in the afternoon shaped 
our course for the mouth of the river Plate. 

The " trades" were remarkably light in the immediate vicinity of 
St. Helena, and instead of blowing a fine steady southeast breeze it 
often blew in gentle airs from one or two points west of south. 
The sea was smooth and the weather delightful for the greater 
part of the time that we were in the trade-wind region. After 
May 15, when we had reached latitude 20° 38' south and longitude 
18° west, we began to experience northerly winds, which, though 
light, seemed to be something unusual for the latitudes. West- 
erly winds prevailed after the 20th of May, and for the week fol- 
lowing we were frequently headed off from our course, which was 
west-southwest true from St. Helena. 

The light airs fell to calms, and an occasional shower from pass- 
ing clouds marked the days we were in the " doldrums." As we 
approached still nearer the river Plate ominous clouds rose in the 
southwest, and flashes of lightning reminded us of what to expect 
from the much-dreaded " pamperos" when we should return to 
the "Mount." 

There was nothing unusual to mark the events of the passage. 
Whales were frequently in sight, but at those times whalers 
seemed far away, although there were plenty constantly cruising 
around in the neighborhood of St. Helena Island. On board 
ship daily routine drills occupied the attention of the officers and 
men, and the days passed pleasantly and comfortably with all. 
Towards the latter part salt provisions began to grow wearisome, 
and canned meats and vegetables seemed to lose all their virtues. 
The wind having failed us in a great measure, we again started 
fires and steamed towards the river, and sighted Point Ignacio at 
ten A.M., Wednesday, January 4. A fresh breeze was prevailing 
in the river, the last of a moderate " pampero," which we did not 
encounter. Lobos Island was duly passed in the afternoon, and 

20 



302 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

we anchored off Flores Island that night in order to have target- 
practice next day. 

A moderate " pampero" with rough sea prevailed during that 
night and the next forenoon, so that we did not have the target- 
practice until the afternoon. Regulation small-arm targets were, 
however, suspended from the ends of the fore-topmast studding- 
sail booms, and all the divisions were exercised with the Hotch- 
kiss magazine- rifles. The targets were completely riddled after 
the firing, notwithstanding the prevalence of the fresh southwest 
wind. The marines used the converted Springfield rifle. At 
eleven we got under way and steamed in towards the Mount, which 
was faintly discerned shortly after we started. The drum beat 
to general quarters at 12.30, immediately before which a regula- 
tion target was dropped from the foreyard arm. The practice 
commenced at eleven hundred yards range, six shots being allowed 
for each of the broadside guns of the port battery, and three from 
the 60-pounder breech-loading rifle on the forecastle. After two 
rounds had been fired from the broadside battery, we exercised at 
concentrated firing, all the guns being trained on the target and 
fired simultaneously at the word of command. The 8-inch rifle 
was not fired in this exercise, because the allowance of ammuni- 
tion for target-practice had been expended. After the target- 
practice was finished the ship was heeled to six degrees to star- 
board, and the required compass observations were made by 
steaming in circles for azimuths with the ship heading on differ- 
ent points. These observations occupied considerable time, and 
it was late when we resumed our course up the river to the an- 
chorage off the town. It was bright moonlight and the wind had 
died away and left a smooth sea, but the harbor is so frequently 
blockaded by sunken wrecks that it required careful navigation 
to take the " Brooklyn" to our anchorage so far within the har- 
bor, especially where the depth of water is scarcely a foot more 
than the ship's draught. 

The " Nipsic" was lying quietly at anchor when we arrived, 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 303 

but not having received a visit from the health officer, we did not 
get our long-looked-for mail until the morning. Letters and 
papers for this ship had been accumulating at Montevideo since 
last January. It is not necessary to repeat any of the details of 
the news we received ; everything had passed along quietly, and 
as far as can be ascertained none of this ship's company have re- 
ceived any bad news from home, another of the many causes we 
have for gratitude in connection with our highly successful cruise 
to Madagascar and return, in which we have faithfully accom- 
plished the duty assigned to us and have gained some valuable 
experience so necessary for proficiency in the navy. 

We anchored within a few feet of the very spot we left last 
September, and after having obtained pratique from the health 
officer we received official visits from the commanding officers of 
the Italian ram " Scylla," the Spanish gunboat " Africa," and the 
Brazilian gunboat " Parnahyba." The ironclads " Los Andes" 
and " Sete de Setembro," which we had almost come to believe a 
part of Montevideo, had left, but in all other respects no change 
was apparent in the general appearance of the harbor. 

During June, 1884, the " Brooklyn" remained at anchor in 
the harbor of Montevideo. In this period the ship's company had 
general liberty, and the ship was coaled and provisioned ready for 
another cruise. The seams of the outside planking were recalked, 
and the ship put in an excellent condition throughout. The sails 
had been a weak feature in our equipment, but these were over- 
hauled, and a new main-topsail was made, with which we would 
have been able to ride out any gale on our Atlantic coast. 

In the mean while the officers saw something of their Monte- 
videan friends, and some of these had become very dear. It 
would be difficult for it to have been otherwise in view of the 
hospitable manner in which they were received by the excellent 
citizens. The personal relations of the officers with the good 
people of Montevideo had been exceedingly pleasant ; they could 
not have been more so if Montevideo were a United States port, 



304 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

and to leave it without much prospect of a return on this cruise 
was, to a certain extent, like leaving our own country. 

The members of the English Club were especially courteous 
to all the officers, and in resigning the privileges so hospitably 
accorded by them, the officers of the " Brooklyn" expressed their 
most grateful appreciation of this kindness. Mr. William D. 
Evans proved that he was one of the best of friends, and he con- 
stantly did everything in his power for our comfort in a thousand 
and one little acts of daily solicitude, for which we cannot find 
words adequate to express our gratitude. Officers and men con- 
tinually spoke of Mr. Evans's services in the highest terms 
possible. 

A TRIP TO BUENOS AYRES. 

During the " Brooklyn's" stay at Montevideo several of the 
officers took advantage of the proximity to Buenos Ayres to visit 
that city, and the following description of the city, with a brief 
sketch of the visit by Lieutenant Beehler and Dr. J. M. Steele, 
will be of interest to the general reader : 

Buenos Ayres is situated on the right bank of the river Plate, 
about ninety miles from Montevideo. It is the capital of the 
Argentine Republic, and promises to be the future metropolis of 
South America. It occupies an area of eleven thousand two hun- 
dred acres, equal to about seventeen and a half square miles, and in 
1882 had a population of two hundred and ninety-five thousand 
inhabitants. The city is built on a level plain and the streets all 
cross at right angles, which though narrow' in the heart of the 
city, widen out into handsome avenues in the newer portions. 
Lines of horse-cars run in almost every street, and at the present 
time statistics show that there are more miles of street railways 
in Buenos Ayres than any other city in the world, almost all the 
cars for which were built in the United States. The streets are 
for the most part irregularly paved, but Belgian blocks are being 
laid, and fully twenty-five per cent, of all the street pavements are 
now paved with these blocks. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 305 

The city being the seat of government has a number of fine 
public buildings in the neighborhood of the Victoria Plaza, be- 
sides which the most prominent are as follows : a national uni- 
versity, a museum of natural history, containing many valuable 
specimens of the fossil remains of some immense prehistoric ani- 
mals found in this part of the world, a large national library, and 
various other libraries for the public, a large custom-house, which 
has cognizance of a trade of over a hundred million dollars an- 
nually, a mint, nine market-places, eleven hospitals, five asylums, 
seven banks, several of which occupy imposing buildings which 
would be a credit to any city, eight large theatres, a commercial 
exchange, and a great many fine mercantile houses. 

The streets are well lighted by gas furnished by three gas com- 
panies. The Brush system of electric lighting is being introduced, 
and a portion of the principal thoroughfares in the heart of the 
city is now illuminated by this means. Kerosene lamps are used 
in the more remote streets. The Roman Catholic religion pre- 
dominates, and the city is the seat of the archbishopric. The 
cathedral is an immense building, one of the largest church edi- 
fices in America, built in Grecian style, with its facade decorated 
with an alto-relievo of Joseph embracing his brethren, to com- 
memorate the family compact of Buenos Ayres with the Argen- 
tine provinces after the civil wars of 1853-59. There are ten 
plazas in the city, provided with public fountains and ornamented 
with shade-trees and flower-gardens. Victoria Plaza now includes 
that of the 25 de Mayo, from which it was formerly separated by 
a low arcade called the Recoba Vieja, which has been recently 
torn down. The centre of the old Victoria Plaza has a small 
liberty monument to commemorate the independence obtained by 
the revolution from Spain on May 25, 1810. This monument is 
built of stucco, and is at present in a very dilapidated condition. 
The other side of the square has a fine equestrian statue of Gen- 
eral Belgrano. 

The great resort of the people for recreation is the Parque 3 de 



306 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Febren, so named to commemorate the date of the downfall of the 
Dictator Rosas in 1852. This park was originally laid out by 
Rosas to form the gardens of his palace at Palermo. The palace 
building is now used as barracks for one of the Argentine regi- 
ments of the line, and fine drives and promenades cover the ex- 
tensive reservation and give the public access to a fair zoological 
garden, which is being constantly enlarged. 

The houses are built in Spanish style, and in the heart of the 
city are almost all altos of two and three stories, quite a number 
of five and six, and nearly all have the usual " patio" (central 
court). There are several fine hotels and a great many elegant 
cafes. 

The city is chiefly a commercial centre for the distribution of 
importations from the United States and Europe in exchange for 
the products of cattle-breeding, the chief source of revenue of the 
country being wool, hides, tallow, jerked beef, live cattle, skins, 
etc. There are very few factories, and these are only such as to 
supply some of the necessaries of life, such as flour-mills, bakeries, 
saddlery- and carriage-shops, all of which are on a small scale. 
The citizens, commonly called " Portenos," are very enterprising, 
and, backed by a rich fertile country, are beginning to realize the 
importance of agriculture and manufacture for the development of 
the country. Skilled mechanics are very scarce, as exemplified by 
the fact that the Argentine Navy Department send their chro- 
nometers to England to be cleaned and repaired for want of the 
proper facilities to do so in Buenos Ayres, though there are over 
a hundred ordinary jewellers and watchmakers in the city. 

The city is the terminus of five railroads, and it is now pro- 
posed to build a grand central depot near the custom-house, from 
which trains will leave for all parts of the Argentine Republic. 
The roads terminating at Buenos Ayres are the Southern, West- 
ern, Campana, Ensenada, and Northern. The Western road is in 
operation to Cordoba, and communication by rail will soon be 
effected across the Andes from Punta del Negro in the rich min- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 307 

ing province of Rioja to Copiapo, Chili. The total number of 
miles of railroad in the Argentine Republic is now nearly four 
thousand miles. The fares average about four cents per mile in 
the province of Buenos Ayres for first class, and three cents sec- 
ond class. In the interior, on the Central Argentine, it is one 
cent per mile more. The rolling-stock is generally modelled after 
the European system, but American cars are being introduced and 
are rapidly taking the place of the others. Some strange combi- 
nations are to be found in the arrangements of some of the 
passenger-cars. 

The foreign commerce in 1882 was carried by about ten thou- 
sand sailing-vessels of an aggregate of two hundred and eighty 
thousand tons and three thousand eight hundred and seventy- 
eight steamers of nine hundred and fifty-five thousand six hun- 
dred tons. The domestic commerce is confined to the navigation 
in the Plate, Parana, and Uruguay Rivers, carried by thirty-six 
screw-steamers and ten paddle-steamers, two thousand five hun- 
dred sailing-vessels, and about twelve hundred smaller boats of 
from one to six tons. Some of the steamers are nicely fitted, but 
none compare with the elegant river steamers in our country. 
Many of the streams of the Argentine Republic are very shallow, 
and it is strange that none of our flat-bottomed river boats have 
as yet been introduced, which, according to Mark Twain, are 
capable of navigating the plains after a heavy dew. The boister- 
ous weather in the river Plate, between Montevideo and Buenos 
Ayres, is such that stanch sea-going steamers are absolutely 
necessary. 

Until the accession of the present president of the republic, 
Lieutenant-General Julio A. Roca, the country has been almost 
constantly involved in domestic strife and revolution ; but an era 
of peace has now dawned, and rapid strides are being made to put 
the republic on a par with the leading nations of the world. The 
country is a republic modelled after our own, with one improve- 
ment, in that the president is elected for six years instead of four. 



308 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

Education is felt to be a necessity for all classes, and additional 
facilities are constantly being provided. In May, 1852, Buenos 
Ayres had 152 public schools with 19,543 pupils, and 112 pri- 
vate schools with 10,000 pupils. The university has 684 stu- 
dents, the national college 546, and the normal schools 700 boys 
and girls. These figures illustrate great improvement, from the 
fact that until within the last twenty years education was confined 
to the males in the higher classes, and that eighty years ago there 
were but few women who could read or write. The magnificent 
steamers which bridge the ocean have made the rest of the world 
much nearer, and the urbanity and culture of the " Portenos" 
proves that they have not neglected opportunities of visiting the 
United States and Europe, and the capital of the Argentine 
Republic has indeed become a cosmopolitan city. 

The press is well represented, and has been exerting its power- 
ful influence for the benefit of the country. In Buenos Ayres 
alone there are ninety-eight daily papers, periodicals, and divers 
reviews, of which there are three in English, three in German, 
three in French, five in Italian, and the rest in Spanish, one of 
which has a daily circulation of nine thousand copies. The 
Buenos Ayres Standard is a very valuable paper, edited by Mr. 
Mulhall, from whose valuable works, " The English in South 
America," " Handbook of the River Plate," and " Dictionary of 
Statistics," we have compiled much of our information concerning 
this country. 

In our recent visit to Buenos Ayres we took passage in the 
steamer " Villa de Salto," commanded by an American, Captain 
Morse, who provided us with a commodious cabin and was espe- 
cially courteous to us and all the passengers. The fare to Buenos 
Ayres has been until recently eight dollars, but an opposition line 
has been established, and round-trip tickets, good for one month, 
are sold for seven dollars, which includes state-rooms and meals. 
The steamer left Montevideo at five p.m., and arrived at Buenos 
Ayres at daylight the next morning. The passengers were, how- 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 309 

ever, not disturbed, and most of them left the steamer about 
eight a.m. in small boats, which they were obliged to hire to 
convey them to the landing. The weather was clear and cool, 
and our first view of the city from the steamer impressed us 
favorably. Two long piers run out from about the centre of an 
imposing row of buildings, which, with the domes and spires in 
the background, demonstrated that we were in the harbor of a 
large city. Small tugs and lighters were plying to and from the 
shipping, anchored at considerable distance from the landing, and 
as our boat took us in we distinguished the custom-house at the 
end of one of the piers, on the side of which a roadway leading 
into the water was seen, full of the peculiar carts with wheels 
from six to ten feet in diameter, some of which we met about a 
half-mile out in the harbor with nothing but the horses' heads 
visible above the surface of the water, while the box of the cart 
was several inches clear above water. These carts were employed, 
to unload lighters, which, owing to the shallowness of the harbor, 
cannot approach any nearer to the shore. A numerous gang of 
porters were clamorous for our baggage when we reached the end 
of the pier, one of whom handed out a brass check (evidence of 
his being a licensed porter), took charge of our baggage, and con- 
ducted us to the hotel. Immediately after breakfast we paid our 
respects to the United States minister and consul, and then looked 
up our friends, one of whom — Mr. Grifford — introduced us to the 
Foreign Residents' Club, where we found every comfort during 
our visit. Mr. Gifford entertained us in a very hospitable manner, 
and the next day called for us and took us out to Palermo and 
the Parque 3 de Febrero. On the way we passed the beautiful 
grounds called " Alvear's Folly," on account of the great expense 
entailed in its construction. 

We next passed the city water-works, where machinery is em- 
ployed to force water into large elevated tanks, from which the 
water-mains are fed to supply all parts of the city, with sufiicient 
pressure for all practical purposes. Buenos Ayres is but little ex- 



310 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

posed to the ravages of the fire fiend. There are no frame houses, 
and the large area occupied by a single brick stucco house with 
central patio is in itself a safeguard against the spread of fire, more 
especially when most of the houses are of but one story. There 
is, however, a well-organized fire department, which in some cases 
has rendered efficient service. 

At Palermo the great resort is the drive through the avenue 
of palms, which borders the Zoological Garden. Here we saw a 
countless stream of carriages of the latest and most approved styles. 
Liveried coachmen and footmen were numerous, and though we 
did not see any four-in-hands nor tandems, yet the general appear- 
ance gave evidence of considerable wealth and its attendant luxu- 
ries. The monkeys' cage, the lions and serpents, attracted the 
largest crowd, in which the small boys made themselves a nuisance 
as usual. A quiet stroll through the garden was very interesting, 
and the excellent behavior of the people elicited our admiration. 
Indeed, the quiet, gentlemanly conduct of the masses in public, 
both in Montevideo and Buenos Ayres, is remarkable, and very 
different from what would be supposed of communities where 
revolutions had been so frequent. After passing through the 
gardens, details of which would require more space than available, 
we came to a rifle-range, where a gun club had a pigeon-shooting 
match, which we could only see from a distance. Our kind host 
then took us back through the southwestern part of the city, and 
then out to his suburban residence at Flores, where we were most 
hospitably entertained by his wife and family. 

During the rest of the week we were kindly entertained by a 
number of gentlemen to whom we had personal letters of intro- 
duction, which made our visit to the city especially enjoyable. On 
Tuesday we went out to the races at Lanus by train on the South- 
ern Railroad. The most striking feature of this train consisted of 
a peculiar arrangement of the cars, which are short and have but 
four trucks, at least five inches greater in diameter than ours. The 
seats were permanently arranged facing each other, with a central 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 31 1 

aisle, and, though, comfortable, were so totally different from any 
we had seen elsewhere, that we were again reminded of our being 
in a foreign land. 

The race-course at Lanus is some distance from the railroad sta- 
tion, and when the train stopped a great rush was made for six or 
seven country vehicles drawn up to convey passengers to the races. 
One large two-wheeled cart was rigged with seats for ten people, 
and started off with great haste to get in time for the first race, 
for which our train was late. There was considerable excitement, 
and just as the train moved on, the shaft of the cart mentioned 
suddenly broke in two and dumped its unusual load out behind, 
to the intense amusement of about three hundred people who wit- 
nessed the break-down ; the occupants of the cart rolled out in the 
mud, but the laughter of the crowd prevented any expression of 
indignation, instead of which each and every one picked them- 
selves up and mingled in the crowd to avoid being recognized. 

The track was not in very good order, and when we reached the 
grand stand we found but little enthusiasm among the spectators. 
The programme called for four races, but there was but one of 
any interest, in which four horses were entered to run three thou- 
sand seven hundred metres, a distance which necessitated going 
twice around the course. We rather expected some peculiar 
native arrangement in the details and manner of conducting the 
races, but from all we could see it is apparent that horse-racing is 
a newly-imported pastime. 

Upon a visit to the Argentine Naval School every attention 
was shown by the courteous commandant, Commander Bachman, 
of the Argentine Navy. The school occupies a lot of about two 
city squares, and is situated in the western part of the city, about 
a mile back from the river. The school is as yet of very modest 
pretensions, and is merely intended for an elementary course in 
the education of cadets and naval apprentices. The distance from 
the river prevents any naval exercises on the water, to provide 
which a fac-simile of a full-rigged brig is substituted by poles in 



312 THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 

the ground, which are so placed as to answer for the masts and 
head-booms, fully equipped with yards and the usual rigging, as a 
regular brig-of-war. A deck and rail are now in course of con- 
struction, to render the resemblance more complete and provide 
for a place for fife-rails, pin-rails, and ports for working guns, that 
the boys might learn the first principles of seamanship and naval 
gunnery. There are but thirty-six naval cadets and one hundred 
apprentices in the school. The former are selected by competi- 
tive examination, and hereafter will be sent to England to com- 
plete their education. The quarters occupied by the boys are 
made as much like a ship as possible, and the dormitory is fitted 
with hooks in beams for hammocks, which are used instead of 
beds. The stowage of clothing, and in fact all the minor details 
of the domestic economy, are as much like those on board a man- 
of-war as possible. The commandant takes a great deal of in- 
terest in teaching astronomy and navigation, for which purpose 
he has a special observatory in one part of the grounds, where the 
more advanced cadets are taught practical astronomy and its 
branches. 

Our leave of absence expired much sooner than we anticipated, 
and although we were busy sight-seeing all the time, yet we had 
to forego the pleasure of visiting many interesting places for want 
of time. We were delighted with all we saw of the " Portenos ;" 
their energy and enterprise is very much to be admired, and we 
certainly never met more hospitable people. 

CRUISE OP THE "NIPSIC." 

The U. S. S. " Nipsic," third rate, after completing a three 
years' cruise on the European Station, returned to New York in 
March, 1883, and refitted for a three years' cruise on the South 
Atlantic Station. Commander H. B. Seely retained the command 
of the vessel, and a new set of officers and crew were ordered, 
many of whom expected the ship would return to Europe. She 
refitted at the New York Navy-yard and hauled out and anchored 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 313 

off the Battery on June 2. June 15 she got under way and steamed 
out for Rio de Janeiro, with one hundred and sixty men and the 
following officers : 

Commander H. B. Seely. 

Lieutenant-Commander G. C. Reiter. 

Lieutenants C. H. Arnold, C. A. Clarke, F. H. Tyler, and 
E. J. Doran. 

Ensigns H. W. Harrison, P. L. Drayton, F. Swift, and W. G. 
Richardson. 

Naval Cadets R. B. Higgins, R. W. Barclay, T. L. Chapin, A. C. 
Alexander, C. T. Webster, and E. S. Glasscock. 

Passed Assistant Surgeon Howard P. Smith. 

Paymaster H. T. Wright. 

Chief Engineer R. B. Hine, Passed Assistant Engineer H. L. 
Hannum, Assistant Engineer E. H. Scribner. 

Second Lieutenant of Marines James A. Turner. 

Paymaster's Clerk B. H. Goubleman. 

During the passage she experienced very good weather to the 
line, which was crossed in longitude 31 degrees on the thirty-sixth 
day out, being July 21. His Majesty Neptune was received on 
board with great ceremony and issued some very handsome diplo- 
mas to the novitiates. After crossing the line she experienced 
southerly winds, which brought her to leeward of the Rocas and 
obliged them to lose several days to beat to windward of Cape St. 
Roque. 

On August 6. when about five hundred miles from Cape Frio, 
she fell in with the Belgian bark " Bougerhout" in distress. Her 
captain was dying with beriberi, and her mate had died three 
weeks before, so that there was no one on board capable of navi- 
gating the vessel to port. Commander Seely sent medical assist- 
ance and three officers, Lieutenant C. A. Clarke and Ensigns F. 
Swift and W. G. Richardson, to take the bark into Rio. Dr. 
Smith performed a surgical operation on the captain, and returned 
to the " Nipsic." The " Bougerhout" was deeply loaded with 



314 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

three hundred tons of salt at Salt Island, Cape de Verdes, and 
bound to Rio Grande de Sur, Brazil ; she was short of provisions, 
and her general condition was deplorable. The chronometer was 
in charge of the cook and about useless, and the compass so boxed 
in that the helmsman merely took an occasional glimpse of it, and 
steered by a star or the sun for the greater part of the time. 
Lieutenant Clarke and his two officers had to turn to and do most 
of the work themselves ; the crew was only six men and two boys, 
and only one could understand English. The captain became de- 
lirious and had to be watched. The officers had no accommoda- 
tions, the rigging and sails were worn out, and the latter required 
patching, the decks were awash and so slimy that a walk forward 
was absolutely perilous, and had they experienced a gale their case 
would have been desperate, while the disease was such that all 
were afraid of contagion ; yet they made fair progress. On 
August 10 they sighted Cape Frio, and without encountering bad 
weather entered Rio and anchored off Fort Villegagnon at nine 
P.M., August 14, and the next morning got under way and 
anchored near the " Nipsic," which had arrived four days before. 
Lieutenant Clarke then turned the vessel over to Mr. Sauwen, the 
Belgian consul-general, while the master was transferred to the 
hospital. 

On August 10 the "Nipsic" arrived in Rio, having made the 
passage under sail in fifty-seven days, steam being used the first 
two days out and one day in the " doldrums." Commander Seely 
reported to Commodore Phelps by letter from Rio, who directed 
him to come to Montevideo. The " Nipsic" left Rio on August 
24, and arrived at Montevideo on August 30, 1883. 

" The ' Nipsic' left Montevideo October 25, 1883, for Buenos 
Ayres. The trip occupied a week, as each day, except Sunday, 
there were exercises such as could only be carried on at sea. 
Target-practice with great guns and small-arms, battalion drills, 
general and fire quarters, sail and spar drills, each had its turn, 
and the ship was steamed round in circles, with different angles of 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 315 

heel, to determine the variations of the compass under these dif- 
ferent circumstances. The ship arrived at Buenos Ayres Novem- 
ber 1, and anchored in the outer roads. Two days later she went 
into the Boca del Riachuelo, a small stream which has been 
dredged out so as to make a safe and convenient harbor for ves- 
sels drawing not more than eighteen feet of water. This was 
found to be a most convenient berth, as, close to the landing, 
those going on shore could take the horse-cars and in half an 
hour could be in the centre of the city. After ten days in the 
' Boca,' the ship went outside again and remained a week longer, 
when, on November 21, steam was raised and the ship ran over to 
Colonia and anchored. The health officer soon came off and took 
a position to windward of the ship, but would not come on board ; 
the bill of health was sent to him in the dingy. He received it 
with a pair of tongs and carefully fumigated it, somewhat to the 
amusement of the lookers-on. The amusement was perceptibly 
lessened when he announced that the ' Nipsic' would have to ride 
out a quarantine of ten days. This was absurd, as no epidemic 
had been known to exist at Buenos Ayres ; but as no modification 
of this edict could be obtained, Commander Seely determined not 
to remain there, and on the following morning the anchor was 
weighed and the ship went to Montevideo, arriving on the even- 
ing of the same day. During the trip down 10.2 knots per hour 
were averaged for six consecutive hours, under steam alone, and 
using two-thirds boiler-power, which was considered good per- 
formance. 

" The ' Nipsic' remained at Montevideo until January 5, when 
Commander Seely, having received orders from the Navy Depart- 
ment to determine astronomically, as exactly as possible, the true 
latitude and longitude of the custom-house at Ensenada, Argentine 
Republic, the ship sailed on that errand, and on the evening of 
the same day anchored in the river. The next day being Sunday 
was observed as a day of rest. On Monday, January 7, she 
steamed to Buenos Ayres for the purpose of getting rates for the 



316 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

ship's chronometers by telegraphic comparisons of time with the 
Argentine National Observatory at Cordoba. Through the good 
offices of General Osborne, the United States minister to the Ar- 
gentine Republic, the government line of telegraph to Cordoba 
was placed at the disposal of Lieutenant C. H. Arnold, who, 
under Commander Seely's direction, was to do the work of deter- 
mining anew the position of the Ensenada custom-house. But 
the line was seldom in working order, and several weeks elapsed 
before a sufficient number of satisfactory comparisons could be 
had. In the mean time, however, Commander Seely obtained and 
forwarded to the Navy Department much valuable hydrographic 
and other information. The ship being again anchored in the 
Boca, access to the shore was easy, and many availed them- 
selves of the fine opportunity offered of seeing a good deal of the 
large and magnificent capital of the Argentine Republic, and of 
its energetic, enterprising, and intelligent people. The officers 
were the recipients of many kind attentions from the United 
States minister, General Osborne, from the consul, Mr. E. T. 
Baker, and his charming and hospitable family, and from many 
others of the foreign residents. Washington's birthday was cele- 
brated on board by dressing the ship, and by an afternoon lunch 
and hop given to the American residents by the captain and offi- 
cers. The weather was all that could be desired, and the company 
assembled was of the pleasantest kind. It was long since an 
American war-ship had come to an anchorage where they could 
visit her conveniently, and without running the risk of being de- 
tained on board several days by bad weather. The Boca was 
found to be an unusually healthy place, as the sick list was 
entirely clean during the greater part of the 'Nipsic's' stay 
there. 

" During the ship's stay in Buenos Ayres Chief Engineer Hine, 
Lieutenant Clark, Ensign Drayton, and Naval Cadet Chapin, de- 
siring to see something of the interior of the country, received a 
week's leave of absence, and went by the Southern Railway to 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 317 

Tandil, some two hundred and forty miles to the south of Buenos 
Ayres. For two hundred and thirty miles the road runs over the 
level, treeless pampas, on which graze countless herds of horses, 
sheep, and cattle, and which is teeming with game. Tandil is 
situated at the base of some low granite hills, on the top of one 
of which is the great ' lion' of the province, the Moving Stone, a 
mass of granite weighing about two hundred tons, so accurately 
balanced on a very small base that a man can easily move it, and 
set it oscillating through a small arc. The party had a very en- 
joyable little tour, and the sportsmen among them bagged plenty 
of game. They returned greatly impressed with the magnitude 
of the natural resources of the country, resources as yet almost 
untouched, but which may yet make the valley of the Rio de la 
Plata one of the wealthiest regions in the world. 

" The ' Nipsic' remained in Buenos Ayres until after Carnival. 
This feast was celebrated with great spirit. For three nights the 
two principal streets were brilliantly illuminated, and were filled 
with masquers on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. Armed 
with a plentiful supply of ' pomitos' they waged a wet warfare 
with the spectators on the sidewalks and on the balconies. 

" On March 2 the ' Nipsic's' smoke-pipe went up again, and 
she steamed to Punta Lara, which place was reached in a few 
hours. The necessary instruments were landed, and in a few days 
a sufficient number of satisfactory observations had been made to 
determine the position desired. March 9 the ship returned to 
Montevideo, where she remained until the 26th of the same 
month, when, after filling up with coal, she started for Bahia 
Blanca. The trip was made under steam alone in a little more 
than three days, the weather being very wet and disagreeable. 
As Bahia Blanca had just been visited by a freshet, which inun- 
dated everything in that part of the country, drowning thousands 
of sheep, the shore was not at all attractive, especially as the town 
is some miles from the landing. At the landing is the terminus 
of the Southern Railway, and we found there a very fine iron 

21 



318 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

wharf under construction by the engineers of the company. Mr. 
Gordon, the engineer in charge, who had his family with him, 
gave a dinner party to the captain and several of the officers. 
The ship was anchored in a small river, with low marshy banks. 
On one of these a target was erected, and the crew exercised at 
target-practice. The officers had some practice also. 

" The ' Nipsic' left Bahia Blanca April 10, and arrived at Mal- 
donado on the 13th, steaming all the way. The night after her 
arrival it blew pretty hard, and the ship dragged her anchors 
some distance. Next morning she shifted her anchorage and 
moored. At Maldonado the ship's battalion was landed on the 
island several times, and exercised in drill and target-practice. 
Wild rabbits are plentiful on the island, and the sportsmen of the 
ship shot some of them, besides finding good duck- and partridge- 
shooting on the mainland. There was good fishing in the bay, 
and an abundance of fine fish was caught every fine day during 
the stay of the ship. 

" On the 22d of April the ' Nipsic' left Maldonado, and ar- 
rived at Montevideo the following morning, where she remained 
until after the arrival of the flag-ship ' Brooklyn' from St. Helena. 
During the absence of the flag-ship the general health of the 
' Nipsic' had been excellent. One change only took place among 
her officers. The ' Pinta' touched at Montevideo on her way 
to the Pacific, and as her engineer had been sent home sick 
from Barbadoes, Commander Seely, instructed by the Navy De- 
partment, transferred Passed Assistant Engineer J. L. Hannum 
to her. Mr. Hannum's detachment was a disappointment to him, 
and his departure was regretted by his messmates." 

On June 19, the " Nipsic" sailed from Montevideo for Bio de 
Janeiro, where she arrived on June 26, 1884, and remained until 
after the departure of the " Brooklyn" for the United States. 



THE CRUISE OF TEE BROOKLYN. 319 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Description of the Bay and City of Rio de Janeiro — A Brief Summary of the 
History of Brazil — The "Brooklyn's" Pets — The Homeward-Bound Voyage 
of the " Brooklyn" and Safe Arrival at New York — A Synopsis of the Cruise 
and Track Chart. 

RIO DE JANEIRO. 

Poets, painters, and travellers have joined in the praises of 
this magnificent bay, and no one can approach it without being 
filled with admiration for its beautiful scenery. Small islets at 
its portals, the sleeping giant outlined by the summit of the hills 
to the southward, the imposing barren Sugar-Loaf Mountain on 
one side, and the frowning fortress of Santa Cruz on the other, 
all seem to be guardians of still further bounties of nature within ; 
and, as one passes inside the entrance, the reality exceeds the 
most extravagant anticipations. 

Rio Bay is an irregular basin extending sixteen miles north- 
ward from the entrance, with widths varying between two and 
eight miles. Numerous islands are scattered in all directions 
about the bay, and these, together with the surrounding country, 
the mountains and picturesque valleys, present varied and strik- 
ingly beautiful views in every direction. One never wearies of 
this scenery, and no matter how frequently examined, some new 
beauty is discovered and its freshness is always felt. 

The entrance is about fifteen hundred yards wide between Fort 
Santa Cruz and Fort Sao Joao on the opposite side ; but this is 
contracted to about one thousand yards by the rocks of Fort Lage. 
Just within the bay two arms branch off on each side, one forming 
the bay of Botafogo, and the other that of Jurujuba, flanked by a 
high little islet crowned with the fort and chapel of " Our Lady 



320 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

of Good Voyages." The beautiful shores then invite more care- 
ful study of their details, as they come out to view in the course 
up the bay. 

On the left the mountain range is marked by a series of promi- 
nent peaks, which are named from their shape, though the points 
of view from which they are seen considerably vary the resem- 
blance to the objects from which they are named. The Gavea — 
meaning a topsail of a ship — is two thousand five hundred and 
seventy-five feet high, Corcovado — the Humpback — two thousand 
two hundred and seventy-two feet, and Tijuca three thousand four 
hundred and forty-seven feet. The latter is also called the " Par- 
rot's Beak," but this name is not general. Looking around to 
the westward, the Organ Mountains are seen on a clear day, the 
most prominent point of which is called " El Dedo de Deus," the 
finger of God. Around to the right the north shore is not so 
mountainous, but is undulating and varied with such natural 
scenery that no points of the bay are without interest for the 
spectator. The bay is unrivalled in the world. That of Naples 
is often mentioned in comparison, but the proximity of the bold 
peaks at Rio, covered with the richest tropical verdure, stately 
palms, and every variety of tree and flower, must excel that of the 
distant flame and smoke of the dreadful volcano at Naples. The 
city of Rio, with its palaces, houses, churches, convents, and pub- 
lic buildings, then comes out to view from on and behind numer- 
ous hills and the valleys along the southern shore, while fleets of 
men-of-war, steamers, and sailing-vessels announce the importance 
and wealth of this great commercial emporium. 

Rio de Janeiro was discovered on the 1st of January, 1502, by 
the Portuguese navigator Andre Goncalvez, who supposed the bay 
to be a river, and from this circumstance and the date named it 
the River of January, which name in Portuguese it still bears. 
Some chroniclers state that the natives called the bay Guanabara, 
and others Nytero, but these names are now only used to desig- 
ate certain localities within the bay. Solis, Magellan, Sebastian 




THE AVENUE OF PALMS IN THE BOTANICAL GARDENS AT RIO DE JANEIRO. 



Page 320. 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 321 

Cabot, and other early navigators visited Rio, but the first Euro- 
pean settlement was founded by Nicolas Dumand Villegaignon 
with a colony of French Huguenots, which sailed from France in 
two armed vessels, and which arrived at Rio on the 10th of No- 
vember, 1555. The French colonists disembarked on the Lage 
Rocks, which they attempted to fortify, but subsequently removed 
farther in bay to the island now known as Villegaignon. In 
March, 1557, the colonists were reinforced by Count Le Bois with 
three hundred persons in three fine armed vessels.- Two Calvinist 
divines accompanied this expedition, one of whom, Jean de Lery, 
published at Rochelle, in 1578, the first notices of a voyage in 
Brazil. This still exists as a reliable record of the manners and 
customs of the aborigines at the time of the first European settle- 
ment. The French colonists prospered in their new home, and 
won the affection and friendship of the surrounding Indian tribes. 

Villegaignon was a Knight of Malta, and had induced the 
Huguenots to join him in his proposal to establish an " Antarctic 
France" in order to gain the support of the French crown. But 
after the arrival of the first reinforcement he pretended to return 
to his old faith, and commenced a persecution of the Protestants 
in the colony, a number of whom were compelled to return to 
France. Villegaignon shortly afterwards went to France himself 
for reinforcements for the colony, but the French king was too 
much occupied with the civil war then existing to give heed to 
his appeal ; and his treatment of the Protestants had forfeited 
Coligny's favor, so that he failed to obtain the aid he sought. 

In the mean time the Portuguese claimed the territory by virtue 
of the discovery of the country by Portuguese navigators, some of 
whom had founded other colonies in Brazil, the most important of 
which were founded in 1535 at Pernambuco and Bahia. Bahia 
became the seat of government in 1549, in which year the first 
governor-general — Thomas de Souza — arrived from Portugal with 
the first Jesuit missionaries, whose remarkable labors among the 
South American Indians contributed immensely in overcoming 



322 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

their hostility to the struggling settlers. In 1560 the Portuguese, 
under Mendo de Sa, attacked the French at Fort Coligny, now 
known as Villegaignon, and destroyed it, but were unable to expel 
the French from the bay of Rio de Janeiro. The Portuguese 
then withdrew, and several years afterwards returned with large 
reinforcements, with Indian allies, under command of Estacio de 
Sa. who captured a fort near the base of the Sugar-Loaf, and on 
the 20th of January, 1567, drove the French out of Rio de Janeiro. 
Immediately after this, De Sa laid out a city on the western shores 
of the bay, which, in honor of its being San Sebastian's day, he 
called the city of Sao Sebastiao de Rio de Janeiro, though the last 
name is generally used alone. 

The history of the colony for the first one hundred years is 
that of exterminating wars against the Indians and wild schemes 
of the gold-hunters and explorers in seach of the El Dorado, 
which produced civil dissensions among the colonists, oppression, 
and assassination. In 1710 the French, under Duclerc, landed at 
Guaratiba and marched upon Rio de Janeiro, but were all cap- 
tured by the Portuguese in a mill, which they surrounded and 
threatened to burn unless the French came out and surrendered. 
In the following year the French admiral, Duguay Trouin, arrived 
at Rio de Janeiro with a large force of four thousand five hun- 
dred men, with which he captured and held the city in revenge 
for the cowardly assassination of Captain Duclerc in his prison, 
shortly after his surrender. The admiral, however, accepted a 
ransom and abandoned the bay. 

The colony of Rrazil thereafter prospered in spite of misman- 
agement, the hostility of neighboring states of the river Plate, 
invasions by the Dutch in the north, and depredations by English 
and French corsairs, which infested the seas at this period. The 
natives were troublesome, but the gold-hunters were indefatigable, 
and in 1729 one of these, Antonio du Fonseca Loba, found the 
first Brazilian diamond in the Sierra de Fria. 

In 1763 the capital of Brazil was transferred from Bahia to 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 323 

Rio de Janeiro, which became the seat of government of the vice- 
roys of Portugal. The more substantial improvements of the city 
were then undertaken. The streets were paved and lighted, and 
the great aqueduct which spans the Rua dos Arcos was then con- 
structed to supply the city with water from the famous Carioca 
Springs on Mount Theresa. 

No hostile fleet has ever entered the bay of Rio de Janeiro 
since the departure of the French fleet under Duguay Trouin ; 
and the growth of the city has been uninterrupted up to the pres- 
ent time. In November, 1807, the Continental wars of Napoleon 
compelled the prince regent to abandon Lisbon and remove the 
capital of the kingdom to Rio de Janeiro. The prince regent 
embarked with the royal family and a large number of the Por- 
tuguese nobility, and, under convoy of the British fleet, sailed for 
Brazil. A storm scattered the fleet, but all at length reached Rio 
safely on the 7th of March, 1808. The people received the 
prince with the greatest manifestations of joy, and a new era 
opened for the flourishing colony. Under the influence of Eng- 
land free trade was established, and the influx of foreigners had a 
most beneficial effect upon the commerce of the country. The 
customs of Europe were introduced, court ceremonies made the 
city like a European capital, and this spread from town to town, 
and the whole face of the country underwent great and rapid 
changes. 

Under these circumstances Brazil could no longer remain a 
mere colony, and in December, 1815, a decree was promulgated 
which declared the country an integral part of the united king- 
dom of Portugal, Algarves, and Brazil. This event was scarcely 
consummated when the queen — Donna Maria I. — died. She was 
the mother of the prince regent, and the latter succeeded to the 
throne as King John VI. The ceremonies of his coronation were 
celebrated with great magnificence in the palace square at Rio on 
February 5, 1818. The satisfaction which the Brazilians felt in 
the elevation of their country to a position equal to that of Por- 



324 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

tugal was weakened by the presence of the great number of ad- 
venturers among the Portuguese courtiers, who sought to monop- 
olize all the honors and offices of the state to the exclusion of 
native Brazilians. The bitter animosity between the courtiers and 
native Brazilians provoked strong jealousies and mistrust, and 
manifested itself in revolutions and mutinies in different parts of 
the state, which were all put down by the Portuguese troops. 
The revolution in Portugal, in 1821, in favor of a constitution, 
was also successful in Brazil ; and these events compelled King 
John VI. to return to Portugal and leave his son Dom Pedro as 
prince regent and lieutenant to the king. The young prince was 
but twenty-three years old, but had passed the greater part of his 
life among the Brazilians, with whom he sympathized against the 
older Portuguese nobility, most of whom returned to Portugal 
with his father the king. The Cortes of Portugal then ordered 
the prince to return to that country, and in a spirit of jealousy 
against Brazil, endeavored to reduce that country back to her 
former colonial dependence. These measures caused violent oppo- 
sition in Brazil, the people persuaded the popular prince to stay 
with them, and on the 7th of September, 1822, the prince de- 
clared for independence or death. He then hastened from the 
city of San Paulo, where he had proclaimed his independence, to 
Rio de Janeiro, and the enthusiasm in his favor knew no bounds. 
The municipality of the capital issued a proclamation, declaring 
it to be the manifest wish of the people to proclaim Dom Pedro 
the Constitutional Emperor and Perpetual Defender of Brazil. 
The coronation then took place on the 12th of October, 1822, in 
the Campo Santa Anna, in the presence of an immense concourse 
of people. 

The Brazilian revolution was comparatively a bloodless one. 
Portugal made nothing like a systematic and persevering effort to 
maintain her ascendency over her long depressed but rebellious 
colony. The insulting measures of the Portuguese Cortes amounted 
to nothing. Their troops retained possession of Bahia and other 



\l 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 325 

parts for some time, but all were finally compelled to abandon 
Brazil to her own control. This revolution was so little contested 
and so rapid that the independence of Brazil was acknowledged 
by the court at Lisbon in less than three years after the first 
proclamation on 7th of September, 1822. 

Notwithstanding the popularity of the Emperor Dom Pedro I., 
there was considerable opposition to his ministers, and in a year 
after his coronation he marched to the capital at the head of his 
cavalry, and ordered the dissolution of the parliament. A new 
assembly was convoked and a new constitution formed, which was 
accepted and sworn to on the 25th of March, 1824, by the em- 
peror and other authorities and the people throughout the empire. 
This constitution is, for an imperial hereditary monarchy, one of 
the most liberal of such documents. The following are some of 
the most important features : The government is a constitutional, 
hereditary, and representative monarchy. The religion is Roman 
Catholic, but all are tolerated. The judicial proceedings are 
public, there is the right to habeas corpus and trial by jury. The 
Congress is composed of Senators, elected for life, and Represen- 
tatives for the term of four years. The presidents of the prov- 
inces are appointed by the emperor, and each province has its 
own legislature. 

The administration of Dom Pedro I. continued about ten years, 
during which time the country made unquestionably greater prog- 
ress than in the three centuries before that time. Dom Pedro 
wavered in his admiration for the representative form of govern- 
ment. He began to favor the cultured Portuguese, and he, 
himself, continually interfered in the affairs of Portugal. He 
instituted a secret cabinet, and by apparently excluding native 
Brazilians, for whom he formerly had such preference, from the 
highest offices, incurred their opposition. After various popular 
agitations, which had the continual effect of widening the breach, 
a mob assembled at Rio and demanded the dismissal of the new 
ministry and the reinstatement of some who had been dismissed 



326 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

on that morning, — April 6, 1831. The emperor refused to consent 
to the dictation of the mob. The troops sided with the mob, and 
finally he yielded to the circumstances and abdicated in favor of 
his son, Dom Pedro II. The next day he went on board the 
English corvette " Volage" and sailed for Europe. 

Dom Pedro II. was not six years old when his father abdicated 
the throne, but nevertheless he was borne in triumph to the city, 
and the ceremony of his acclamation as emperor was performed 
with great enthusiasm. The Assembly elected a permanent regency 
to administer the government during the minority of young Dom 
Pedro II. ; but during the following nine years the regency was 
often changed by party strife, and in 1840 it was abolished alto- 
gether ; so that, when the emperor was but fifteen years old, they 
declared his minority expired and elevated him at once to the full 
possession of his throne. Great excitement prevailed at Rio in con- 
sequence ; the personal popularity of the young sovereign was over- 
whelming, and the enthusiasm in his favor has never waned. The 
reign of Dom Pedro II. has been marked by a continually improving 
prosperity of the country. He was married to Donna Theresa, the 
sister of the king of the Two Sicilies, who arrived at Rio on the 
3d of September, 1843. The emperor is himself a man of talent, 
and is distinguished for his scientific attainments as a chemist, a 
topographical engineer, and a linguist. Some of his admirers 
claim that he can speak three different languages fluently, and is 
well acquainted with every European tongue. He encourages 
every branch of useful industry, and habitually visits the proprie- 
tors of stores and tries to stimulate the Brazilians to compete in 
commercial and business enterprises with foreigners. He is a 
zealous advocate of education, and devotes a great deal of his time 
and fortune for the culture of the young. He is a great ad- 
mirer of the United States and our institutions, and invariably 
praises the United States Naval Academy whenever opportunity 
presents. He visited the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia 
in 1876, and his high character and personal attainments have 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 327 

won for him the corresponding respect and admiration of our own 
people. 

The most notable events in this reign have been the downfall 
of Rosas in the Argentine Confederation, in 1852, and the war 
with Paraguay, in 1865-71, in which Brazil took a prominent 
part and was victorious. The slave-trade was abolished in 1850, 
but slavery still exists in Brazil, and the efforts of the abolitionists 
are so bitterly opposed by the slaveholders that the situation is 
extremely critical at present. 

The city of Rio de Janeiro contains about four hundred and 
fifty thousand inhabitants. It is, with a few neighboring com- 
munes, a separate municipality, under the immediate government 
of the executive and legislative authorities of the empire similar 
to Washington in the District of Columbia. The city is built on 
a narrow undulating plain, extending six miles along the western 
shore of the bay, and back and over the hills in a picturesque 
manner. The palace square with the imperial palace, the agricul- 
tural building, and the imperial chapel occupy the most prominent 
central site viewed from the man-of-war anchorage. The streets 
are very narrow in the older portions of the city, so much so that 
vehicles are required to go in the same direction in the same street ; 
alternate streets are designated by sign for opposite routes. The 
Rua Ouvidor is the main business thoroughfare for retail dealers. 
It is so narrow and so much frequented that no vehicles are al- 
lowed in the street at any time except after ten o'clock at night. 
The houses are usually devoid of architectural beauty and gen- 
erally have but one or two stories. Balconies are almost universal 
in those of two stories, and long green Venetian blinds hang down 
over these and give a striking peculiarity to the appearance of the 
more crowded portions of the city. There are a great many lines 
of street-cars, which are called " Bonds" by the citizens. This 
peculiar name originated from the coincidence that the govern- 
ment negotiated a treasury loan the same time that the street rail- 
ways were opened for the people. The conductors of the cars gave 



328 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

tickets upon the receipt of the fares, which were jokingly called 
" bonds," and from this circumstance all street-cars have been 
called bonds ever since. 

The custom-house is admirably situated on the sides of a 
rectangular basin, and is well supplied with steam-cranes, railways, 
and ample facilities for the transportation, inspection, and storage 
of goods. The new post-office is a very handsome modern gran- 
ite building. Among the other most notable buildings there are 
the palaces of the imperial family, the mint, the academy of arts 
and sciences, the railroad depot, two large hospitals, twenty-four 
churches, some of which are very large and handsome, the Jesuit 
college, Benedictine monastery, four convents, the national library, 
the museum, the casino, ten theatres, and a host of corporated and 
private institutions too numerous to mention. Public squares 
abound in all parts of the city, and the Botanical Gardens in the 
suburbs are celebrated for the imposing avenues of stately palms. 
Rare specimens of tropical plants also abound. 

There are a number of monuments in the public parks, — one, a 
very handsome bronze equestrian statue of Dom Pedro I., the 
granite pedestal of which is ornamented by four handsome female 
Indian statues at the corners, emblematic of the four great rivers 
of the empire. It would require a volume to do justice to all the 
public works, the forts and arsenals, the complete system for dis- 
infecting sewers, the pavement and lighting of the streets, and 
other details. 

The city is, however, only a commercial emporium. There are 
no factories worth mentioning, and its great wealth is almost en- 
tirely due to the exportation of coffee. Grold and diamonds are 
extensively mined in the neighboring province. The bay is trav- 
ersed by a number of ferries, among which there are six steamers 
like the New York ferry-boats. The commerce of the port is car- 
ried by twenty-two steamship companies and fleets of sailing-vessels, 
while three railroad lines drain the neighboring country. Travel- 
lers are constantly arriving, but, notwithstanding a large floating 



II 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 329 

population, the hotel accommodation is miserable, though the 
cafes and restaurants are very good. The markets at Rio are well 
supplied with fruit, but a great many necessaries are imported 
from abroad, — potatoes, butter, and flour. The climate is tropi- 
cal, and in the summer — from December to March — there is 
always more or less yellow fever, though consumption is by far 
the most fatal and general disease. 

THE "BROOKLYN'S" PETS. 

In the variety and assortment of pets the " Brooklyn" has 
probably never been surpassed, and their presence contributed 
much from time to time to the amusement of the officers and 
crew. Upon leaving New York, two cats and a mocking-bird en- 
joyed the comforts of the captain's cabin, but nevertheless soon 
came to an untimely end : one cat and the bird died, and the 
other cat had a fight with two Montevideo cats, during which he 
broke his neck by falling off the roof of Mr. Evans's store, where 
he had been sent for safe-keeping. Captain Weaver's parrots next 
appeared, the first of which was accidentally dropped into the sea, 
cage and all, and drowned. A gray parrot from the west coast of 
Africa proved a remarkably intelligent bird, and imitated the 
orderly's knock on the cabin door and then said " Come in" in the 
most natural manner, and would frequently shout "Strike eight 
bells," " Call the watch," with all the expressive emphasis of the 
tired watch officer anxious for his relief. Captain Weaver became 
especially attached to this bird, which learned to repeat whole 
sentences calculated to be especially gratifying to the captain's 
children. The latter did not enjoy this, because the poor bird 
was taken sick and died shortly before our departure from Rio. 

On the Transit of Venus expedition a number of pets were 
brought on board, a young guanaco being of all the most conspic- 
uous. This was a beautiful animal ; its lustrous eyes were so 
expressive of gentleness it seemed a pity to keep it in captivity. 
The men tried every means to tame it, but it died before it be- 



330 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

came accustomed to its unnatural surroundings. A lot of young 
ostriches lived on the forecastle for some weeks ; they astonished 
all by their voracious appetites, but died from undigested copper 
tacks. Several penguins were captured, but died before they 
were tamed. 

In the Madagascar cruise the greatest variety of pets was col- 
lected. The peculiar animals of that country were specially in- 
teresting, — lemurs, Madagascar cats, a hedgehog, and a number 
of mongooses were on board ; two of the latter, owned by Lieu- 
tenant Phelps, were really beautiful, and their death was felt to 
be a great loss. Sixteen African monkeys, of different species, 
found a temporary home on board the " Brooklyn," some of which 
survived the cruise. Of the monkeys, details are too numerous 
to attempt a description. The largest of these was May-Junga, 
named from Mojanga in Madagascar, where it was given to Cap- 
tain Fagan. This monkey stood about three and a half feet high ; 
it was very good-natured, and was secured by a heavy chain, not- 
withstanding which she frequently broke adrift, and the efforts to 
capture her in the rigging and in different parts of the ship cre- 
ated a great deal of fun. An American circus company arrived 
at Rio about this time, and May-Junga is now one of the attrac- 
tions on the bills. At Cape Town a chameleon was one of the 
steerage pets ; this strange creature, called " Dick," was fed with 
flies, and after getting remarkably fat, one day gave birth to 
eleven young chameleons, but all died shortly after. At St. 
Helena a " parrot" fever raged, and gray African parrots were 
bought for about fifteen dollars ; forty-one were on board at one 
time. Two large geometrical tortoises from Madagascar, belong- 
ing to Captain Weaver, were brought for the Boston Society 
of Natural History. 

Preparations for the final departure from Montevideo were com- 
pleted late Saturday evening, July 12, and the next day afforded 
the last opportunity to bid adieu to our friends in the city, some 



TEE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 331 

of whom were especially anxious for us to remain at least one day 
more to participate in the festivities of the French national holi- 
day, — the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille. At 11.50 
A.M., Monday, July 14, we got under way and began the first part 
of our voyage homeward-bound, under the most promising circum- 
stances, with every detail of the ship's equipment and machinery 
in thorough order. 

We steamed direct for Rio de Janeiro, and experienced fine 
weather, with smooth sea and very light head-winds. During this 
passage we had general quarters at night — " lash and carry" — 
several times, and other drills and exercises as per routine. We 
sighted the reflection of the electric light on Raza Island, off the 
entrance of Rio de Janeiro, at 8.20 P.M., July 20, at a distance 
of thirty-eight miles, and the light itself was first seen at ten 
o'clock, twenty-nine miles distant. We steamed up the beautiful 
bay early Monday morning, and came to anchor in the man-of-war 
anchorage at 9.25 a.m. The trip from Montevideo thus occupied 
six days and twenty-three hours, while the distance actually sailed 
was 1084.6 miles. 

We found the " Nipsic" and a number of men-of-war at anchor 
in the harbor, and immediately after the health officer's visit we 
received our mail, in which the admiral received instructions to 
proceed home in the " Brooklyn" as soon as the United States 
naval storehouse was disposed of. The news was immediately 
communicated to the officers, and Dennis Twiggs passed word — 
after the shrill pipe to attention — " D'ye hear there ? the ship is 
under orders for home !" No words can express the thrill of joy 
that ran through the ship's company. Three rousing cheers spon- 
taneously burst forth and gave vent to our feelings. 

The disposal of the naval storehouse had been decided upon 
some time previously, and the " Nipsic" was sent to Rio de 
Janeiro in the latter part of June to survey the stores and get 
everything ready for the sale. We expected to be able to accom- 
plish this in a very short time, but after the inventory was taken 



332 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

the law required the sale to be advertised for four weeks, which 
detained us. 

In the mean time the customary salutes were exchanged 
with the Brazilians and the usual visits paid to the authorities. 
On the 5th of August Admiral Phelps, Captain Weaver, Pay- 
master Wright, Lieutenants Beehler and Phelps, Captain Fagan, 
U.S.M.C., and Ensign Ripley, accompanied by Mr. Trail, acting 
charge d'affaires in the absence of Minister Osborne, went to the 
imperial palace at San Christovao and were presented to the Em- 
peror Dom Pedro II. and the empress. The visit was very cere- 
monious, aud was simply an occasion for the interchange of the 
expressions of friendship and amity existing between the United 
States and Brazil. 

While we were at Bio our minister to Uruguay — the Hon. 
William Williams — arrived en route to the United States. He 
was cordially received by the officers, and was their guest for one 
night. Mr. Williams was nominated for Congress by acclamation 
in his district in Indiana, and left Bio in the American steamer 
" Finance." The diplomatic corps at Bio went on board the 
"Finance," and subsequently visited the "Brooklyn." When 
the " Finance" started down the bay we fired a salute of fifteen 
guns, while the band played the " Star-Spangled Banner," " Home, 
Sweet Home," and other airs. 

Senhor Boberto Grey, the well-known Bio auctioneer, con- 
ducted the sale of the stores, under the direction of Paymaster 
J. B. Martin, United States Navy, who had charge of the United 
States naval storehouse at Bio de Janeiro. Ensign C. S. Bipley, 
the admiral's aide, witnessed the sale on the part of the admiral. 
The auction took place in the city, where samples of the different 
articles from the storehouse on Vianna Island had been collected. 
These stores had deteriorated very much from climatic causes, and, 
as they had been exposed to yellow fever germs, commanding 
officers of naval vessels would not take them on board their ships 
for fear of introducing yellow fever. These reasons induced the 



L 



THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 333 

Navy Department to discontinue the storehouse, and it was a very 
agreeable surprise that the sum of thirty thousand milreis, or 
twelve thousand dollars, was realized from the auction, which took 
place on the 21st of August. The American firm of Gr. F. Bassett 
& Co. bought several lots of the stores, which were in prime con- 
dition ; the bulk of the inferior damaged goods was " knocked 
down" to Brazilian firms and speculators. 

The money was duly paid and the whole affair settled by Aug- 
ust 30, and preparations were made for our departure for New 
York on the following Monday, September 1. The " Nipsic" 
was thus left alone on the station. Naval Cadets Webster and 
Alexander were transferred back again to the " Nipsic," with 
twelve of our marines, who had been with us all the cruise. 

At 9.45 a.m., Monday, September 1, the boatswain and his 
mates called all hands "Up anchor for home," and all went to 
their stations with great alacrity. We got under way under steam 
and stood down the bay. As we passed the " Nipsic" her crew 
manned the rigging and gave us the parting cheer, which we an- 
swered most vociferously. The air was filled with caps, which 
dropped into the sea astern accompanied by three Jonahs, which 
were thrown from our fore-, main-, and mizzen-tops. 

We had a deck-load of fifty tons of coal, and continued under 
steam until September 6, when we got the southeast trades. 
From this time on the passage was remarkably fine. After the 
deck-load of coal was consumed we proceeded under sail alone, 
until we reached the equatorial belt of calms, when we started 
fires and steamed from latitude 7° north longitude 44° west, to 
10° 30' north and 50° west, a distance of about three hundred 
and thirty miles, when we got the northeast trades, which we 
carried up to their extreme northern limit. We again got up 
steam at eleven o'clock, October 4, when six hundred and seventy 
miles from Sandy Hook, and steamed direct to our anchorage 
off the navy-yard at Brooklyn, where the " Brooklyn" arrived 
at three p.m., October 8, 1884. 

22 



334 THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. 

The homeward bound voyage was by far the most pleasant of 
the cruise. The mere fact of nearing home after a three years' 
cruise on a foreign station would in itself have reconciled us to 
many discomforts, but we had none. 

The beautiful weather so general in the trade-wind belts pre- 
vailed over and beyond their ordinary limits, and even when we 
passed between Bermuda and Hatteras we experienced delightful 
weather, encountered no rough seas, and the ship sailed along as 
smoothly as if on an inland lake. 

For three long years the good old ship cruised along foreign 
shores, and was a safeguard to the United States of America and 
a security for such as passed on the seas upon their lawful occa- 
sions. The ship's company was discharged, and the officers 
assigned to other duties as deemed expedient by the honorable 
Navy Department, but those who participated will always look 
back upon this most successful cruise with great satisfaction. 

Indeed, the " Brooklyn's" cruise was a very fortunate one, both 
in regard to the fine weather generally experienced and to the 
remarkably good health enjoyed by " all hands." 

Doubtless all will enjoy the blessings of the land with the 
fruits of their labors and be sincerely grateful for these mercies. 




Drawn by Lieut. G. A. Csthoun- U.S.N. 






/ 



TABULATED SYNOPSIS OF THE CRUISE. 



November 11, 1881, went into commission at navy-yard, New York. 



Date of 
Departure. 



Port Left and Port Bound for. 



Time on 
Voyage. 



Days. Hours 



Distance 
Sailed. 



Miles. 



1881. 
December 7. 

1882. 
February 5. 

" 15. 



" 28. 

March 1. 

2. 

14. 
May 24. 

September 9. 
October 26. 
December 16. 

1883. 
January 3. 

" 27. 

September 28. 
November 19. 
December 15. 



1884. 
January 



February 



April 
May 
July 
September 



New York for Montevideo, Uruguay. 



Montevideo for Possession Bay, Straits of 
Magellan 

Possession Bay for Gregory Bay, Straits 
of Magellan 

Gregory Bay for Elizabeth Island, Straits 
of Magellan 

Elizabeth Island for Sandy Point, Straits 
of Magellan 

Sandy Point for Gregory Bay, Straits of 
Magellan 

Gregory Bay for Possession Bay, Straits 
of Magellan 

Possession Bay for Port Stanley, Falk- 
land Islands 

Port Stanley for Montevideo 

Montevideo for Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.... 

Bio de Janeiro for Montevideo 

Montevideo for Santa Cruz, Patagonia... 

Santa Cruz for Montevideo 



Montevideo for Santa Cruz, Patagonia. . 

Santa Cruz for Montevideo 

Montevideo for Cape Town, Africa 

Cape Town for Tamatave, Madagascar.. 
Tamatave for Zanzibar 



Zanzibar for Johanna Islands 

Johanna for Nossi BS Island 

Nossi Be for Mojanga, Madagascar 

Mojangafor Mozambique, Africa 

Mozambique for Mourondava, Madagas- 
car 

Mourondava for Nos-Veh, Madagascar... 

Nos-Veh for Tullear Bay, Madagascar 

Tullear Bay for Port Elizabeth, Africa.... 

Port Elizabeth for Cape Town, Africa 

Cape Town for St. Helena Island 

St. Helena for Montevideo 

Montevideo for Bio de Janeiro, Brazil.... 
Bio de Janeiro for New York 



6,279.4 



1,391.2 
46. 



46. 

462.5 
1,166.4 
1,058.6 
1,002.3 
1,251.3 
1,131.1 



1,168.6 

1,131.1 

3,986. 

3,065.4 

1,022.4 



498.7 
216.6 
281.8 
403.1 

340.3 

228.7 

32. 

1,052.5 

438.7 

1,643.5 

3,134.8 

1,084.6 

4,913.4 



Total 38,567 



The above, including several short trips on the river Plate for target-practice and 
tactical evolutions, make a grand total of 38,600 miles sailed during the entire cruise. 

385 



APPENDIX. 



LIST OF OFFICERS ON BOARD THE UNITED STATES FLAG-SHIP 
"BROOKLYN" UPON HER ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK, OCTOBER 
8, 1884. 

Rear- Admiral Thomas S. Phelps, commander-in-chief United States naval 

force, on South Atlantic Station. 
Captain A. W. Weaver, commanding " Brooklyn." 
Lieutenant-Commander G. E. Wingate. 
Lieutenant-Commander B. W. Watson. 
Lieutenant W. H. Beehler. 
Lieutenant H. 0. Handy. 
Lieutenant Thomas S. Phelps, Jr. 
Lieutenant George A. Calhoun. 
Lieutenant Jacob J. Hunker. 
Ensign H. McL. P. Huse. 
Ensign John Hood. 
Ensign C. S. Ripley. 
Ensign J. B. Cahoon. 
Ensign J. A. Bell. 
Ensign Thomas Snowden. 
Ensign Franklin Swift. 
Medical Inspector C. H. Burbank. 
Surgeon H. M. Martin. 
Passed Assistant Surgeon J. M. Steele. 
Paymaster Worthington Goldsborough. 
Chief Engineer W. W. Dungan. 
Passed Assistant Engineer B. C. Gowing. 
Assistant Engineer S. H. Leonard, Jr. 
Chaplain A. Lee Royce. 

Captain L. E. Fagan, United States Marine Corps. 
Second Lieutenant S. L. Jackson, United States Marine Corps. 
Boatswain H. Dickinson. 
Carpenter J. S. Waltemeyer. 
Sailmaker J. T. Bailey. 
Paymaster's Clerk J. G. Dawson. 

* 337 



338 



APPENDIX. 



LIST OF CREW. 



APPOINTED PETTY OFFICERS. 

John Taylor, master-at-arms. 

0. B. Morton, ship yeoman. 

William LaForge, machinist, first- 
class. 

James Jones, machinist, first-class. 

D. M. Miller, machinist, second-class. 

William M. Shoemaker, engineer's 
yeoman. 

James L. Graham, apothecary. 

Harry T. Jackson, pay. yeoman. 

William Jarrard, schoolmaster. 

William A. M. Deuchar, ship's writer. 

C. M. Cartwright, ship's printer. 

M. Durkin, blacksmith. 

PETTY OFFICERS. 

John Lyons, boatswain's mate. 

Dennis Twiggs, boatswain's mate. 

James Murphy, boatswain's mate. 

Matthew Riley, chief gunner's mate. 

William R. Lyons, signal quartermas- 
ter. 

Henry Pharoah, carpenter's mate. 

John Winters, carpenter's mate. 

Charles Kelsey, armorer. 

Thomas Muldoon, sailmaker's mate. 

George Reed, coxswain to commander- 
in-chief. 

William Campbell, captain forecastle. 

William Eske, captain forecastle. 

Edward Ramsay, quartermaster. 

Robert Maker, quartermaster. 

Charles Bassett, quartermaster. 

Magnus Erickson, quarter gunner. 

James Tiernan, quarter gunner. 

John H. Thompson, quarter gunner. 

Thomas Holmes, quarter gunner. 



James Burgess, coxswain. 
James Casey, coxswain. 
John Maley, coxswain. 
John Tracey, captain maintop. 
Thomas Mullen, captain maintop. 
John L. Bernauer, captain foretop. 
Manuel Rodrigues, captain foretop. 
John Dyke, captain mizzentop. 
H. E. Collyer, captain mizzentop. 
George Royal, captain after-guards. 
Charles Walker, captain after-guards 
George W. Miller, painter. 
John Walker, ship's corporal. 
Daniel Sheridan, ship's corporal. 
Stephen Ashton, cajDtain main hold. 
John Dahlberg, captain fore hold. 
Thomas Carroll, ship's cook. 
John Doherty, jack of dust. 
Ronald Ford, lamp-lighter. 
Richard Walsh, ship's bugler. 
David Meldrum, carpenter. 
Charles Venables, carpenter. 
D. J. McLaughlin, carpenter. 
W. J. C. Hardy, carpenter. 
Joseph Hindley, bayman. 
H. M. Holden, bayman. 

FORECASTLE. 
Charles MeCluskey, seaman. 
William Sweeney, seaman. 
Harry Barth, seaman. 
August Makowske, seaman. 
Henry Williams, seaman. 
Richard Jones, seaman. 
Andrew Collman, seaman. 
Peter Nuygren, seaman. 
John Ellis, seaman. 
William Anderson, seaman. 



APPENDIX. 



339 



Peter Burkhardt, seaman, apprentice. 
W. C. Carson, seaman, apprentice. 
W. V. Armstrong, ordinary seaman, 

apprentice. 
W. F. Cartwright, ordinary seaman, 

apprentice. 
Frederick Dreier, ordinary seaman. 
Albert Garren, ordinary seaman. 
Arthur Ward, ordinary seaman. 
Hans J. Hansen, ordinary seaman. 
John Dunn, ordinary seaman. 
John Rich, landsman. 
Frank Appelblad, landsman. 
William McArthur, landsman. 

FORETOP. 

F. Schmanke, seaman. 

G. B. Bernhartsen, seaman. 
Nicholas George, seaman. 
Aeklos Alegria, seaman. 
Walter Wellesley, seaman. 

August Haiman, seaman, apprentice. 

Michael Duffy, seaman, apprentice. 

Jacob Olsen, seaman. 

Stephen Ellsen, mastman. 

John Cavanagh, mastman. 

Olaf Olsen, ordinary seaman. 

Christian Christensen, ordinary sea- 
man. 

Walter Kevern, ordinary seaman. 

William Brown, ordinary seaman. 

Rudolph Schneider, ordinary seaman. 

I. N. Marselis, ordinary seaman. 

Frederick Jonson, ordinary seaman. 

W. A. Culver, ordinary seaman. 

J. A. Carlson, ordinary seaman. 

Percival Gibson, ordinary seaman, 
apprentice. 

J. Spolders, ordinary seaman, ap- 
prentice. 

Edward Perham, ordinary seaman, 
apprentice. 

J. F. Smith, landsman. 



W. J. Wojan, landsman. 
William Sinnott, landsman. 
Olaf Skovelyn, landsman. 

MAINTOP. 
John Port, seaman. 
John Johnson, seaman. 
Philip Hazard, seaman. 
Robert Allan, seaman. 
A. L. Ford, seaman, apprentice. 
Patrick Meagher, seaman, apprentice. 
J. M. Smith, seaman, apprentice. 
Francis Cleary, seaman. 
Thomas G. Pasnage, seaman. 

F. Larsen, seaman. 

A. Halgesson, seaman. 
Albert Rugaart, mastman. 
William O'Brien, mastman. 

R. B. Hilger, ordinary seaman. 

James Foley, ordinary seaman. 

John V. Nordling, ordinary seaman. 

Andrew Pozetts, ordinary seaman. 

Frank Hewitt, ordinary seaman. 

William Collins, ordinary seaman. 

William Schmidt, ordinary seaman. 

Henry Jennings, ordinary seaman. 

Henry Rave, ordinary seaman, ap- 
prentice. 

John F. Folwell, ordinary seaman, 
apprentice. 

John W. Beattie, landsman. 

H. 0. Hanson, landsman. 

MIZZENTOP. 
AVilliam Johnson (2d), seaman. 
Andrew Bakman, seaman. 
James Conley, seaman. 
Ossian Carlson, seaman. 
Charles Humphreys, seaman. 
Oliver Quemener, seaman. 

B. H. Bryan, seaman, apprentice. 

G. W. Bock, seaman, apprentice. 
G. P. Monell, seaman, apprentice. 
John Neil, mastman. 



340 



APPENDIX. 



A. G. Peterson, mastman. 

John Gunsolvers, ordinary seaman. 
Robert Simons, ordinary seaman. 
Peter Anderson, ordinary seaman. 
C. J. B. Iversen, ordinary seaman. 
Henry Phelps, ordinary seaman. 
J. M. Hume, ordinary seaman, ap- 
prentice. 
Jakob Forss, landsman. 
William Steinhauer, landsman. 
George Banister, landsman. 

AFTER-GUARDS. 

Charles Anderson, seaman. 

Arnt Jakobson, seaman. 

Edward Austin, seaman. 

G. A. Benetzech, seaman, apprentice. 

Alexander Jones, seaman, apprentice. 

Rudolph Klabis, ordinary seaman. 

Frederick Vanpamelin, ordinary sea- 
man. 

Emil Giebarth, ordinary seaman. 

James Millmore, ordinary seaman. 

George Hewitt, ordinary seaman. 

Frank Brady, ordinary seaman. 

C. H. R. Godfrey, ordinary seaman. 

Martin Nyholm, ordinary seaman. 

William Johnson (1st), ordinary sea- 
man. 

B. Patti, ordinary seaman, apprentice. 
R. M. Wright, ordinary seaman, ap- 
prentice. 

J. W. Howourth, landsman. 
Charles Miller, landsman. 
James Murphy (2d), landsman. 
Andrew Neuman, landsman. 
John McCabe, landsman. 

ENGINEER'S FORCE. 
Michael Hanifin, first-class fireman. 
George E. Skinner, first-class fireman. 
John Grant, first-class fireman. 
Dennis Murphy, first-class fireman. 



Thomas Cahill, first-class fireman. 
John W. Welch, first-class fireman. 
Peter Sullivan, first-class fireman. 
Alphonse Verriest, first-class fireman. 
James McCarthy, first-class fireman. 
James Conner, first-class fireman. 
Charles Bois, first-class fireman. 
John Northern, second-class fireman. 
W. F. Hope, second-class fireman. 
Edward Brenan, second-class fireman. 
Henry Wilson, second-class fireman. 
William O'Conner, second-class fire- 
man. 
F. E. Hedenger, second-class fireman. 
B. Mastoraki, second-class fireman. 
George Ryan, second-class fireman. 
Rudolph Schultz, second-class fireman. 
John Dolan, second-class fireman. 
John Lietzer, coal-heaver. 
Harry Forkin, coal-heaver. 
Thomas Delaney, coal-heaver. 
Paul Adam, coal-heaver. 
Patrick AVhalen, coal-heaver. 
E. H. Johnson, coal-heaver. 
Alexander Coutts, coal-heaver. 
John S. Norton, coal-heaver. 
R. Soderlund, coal-heaver. 
W. H. Ammerman, coal-heaver. 
Pat. Byrnes, coal-heaver. 
John Sheehan, coal-heaver. 
James O'Neil, coal-heaver. 
Carl Lerhman, coal-heaver. 
John O'Connor, coal-heaver. 
John Flynn, coal-heaver. 
Michael Whalen, coal-heaver. 
Gustave Thiele, coal-heaver. 
William Branagan, coal-heaver. 

MARINE GUARD. 
Joseph Boyle, orderly sergeant. 
Benjamin Hart, sergeant. 
Robert Eakins, sergeant. 
George F. Powers, corporal. 



APPENDIX. 



341 



T. H. Moran, corporal. 
C. B. Allan, corporal. 
W. E. Howes, drummer. 
J. C. Cahill, fifer. 
M. Behan, private. 
J. J. Dougherty, private. 
John Dougherty, private. 
F. E. Dow, private. 
J. W. Fleet, private. 
E. M. Hurley, private. 
Louis Hassinger, private. 
J. H. Keating, private. 
J. M. Kenny, private. 
William Lally, private. 
Edmond Loren, private. 
C. S. Murphy, private. 
S. G. Maxfield, private. 
John Quinn, private. 
John A. Richardson, private. 
A. M. Reddick, private. 
A. Spering, private. 
T. Russell, private. 
C. Viele, private. 

BAND. 

H. E. Schutte, master of band. 

Donato Ficca, first-class musician. 

Salvator Arcidiacona, first-class musi- 
cian. 

Achilles Tedeschi, first-class musi- 
cian. 

Generoso Napoliello, first-class musi- 
cian. 

Genero Persico, first-class musician. 

Frederick Fornfett, first-class musi- 
cian. 

Nicola Fica, second-class musician. 



Giacomo del Guerico, second-class mu- 
sician. 

Henry Gremmel, second-class musi- 
cian. 

Antonio Gueressi, second-class musi- 
cian. 

Cesare Torsiello, second-class musi- 
cian. 

Giacomo Simone, second-class musi- 
cian. 

SERVANTS. 
Leo. Stears, admiral's steward. 
Charles Arthur, admiral's cook. 
T. H. Richardson, admiral's boy. 
F. A. Robinson, cabin steward. 
Charles Akins, cabin cook. 
Alexander Wilson, cabin boy. 
Ah Bon, wardroom steward. 
Ah Chowe, wardroom cook. 
Ah Gee, wardroom boy. 
Ah Quang, wardroom boy. 
Ah Choo, wardroom boy. 
Ah Yow, wardroom boy. 
Ah Sin, wardroom boy. 
Ah Sing, wardroom boy. 
Pietro Rodrigues, wardroom boy. 
Ah John, steerage steward. 
Ah Choy, steerage cook. 
Paul Samaran, steerage boy. 
Emile Renand, steerage boy. 
Emile Cagnion, steerage boy. 
Thomas Kennedy, warrant officers' 

steward. 
W. H. Johnson, warrant officers' cook. 
Charles Williams, warrant officers' 

boy. 



ACKER, MERRALL & C€>NDIT, 



IMPORTERS OF 



FINE WINES AND FANCY GROCERIES, 

57TH ST. AND 6TH AVE., 

BROADWAY AND 42D STREET, 130 AND 132 CHAMBERS STREET, 

NEW YOIfcK. 



39 Rue de Chateaudun, ACKER, EDGAR & CO., 

PARIS. YONKERS. 



During the cruise the wardroom officers of the " Brooklyn" 
received several lots of our goods at Montevideo and Kio de 
Janeiro, by which they realized a saving of over $500. 



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82 8 "• , *1 



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